John Scott

Thats 194 mph @ 6500 with a 3.54! That might take more than 400 ponies(?). Only had mine up to 5600rpm. Scarey! What are the top speeds of the Auto corvettes? You might pose the question to one of the 700 specialists like Carl Rossler transmissions. Js [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited May 31, 2000).]

I really want the oilpan clearance and some reference of the height of the engine in the chassis. The oilpan is of course dependent on suspension,tire height etc., once its mounted in the chassis. I set up my own mounting system and have nothing to compare it to. The oilpan issue is one more of curiosity, the engine height to some reference point is more critical. For example, my cranckshaft centerline is aprox. 2.5 inches above the top surface of my swaybar. My pulleys are 1/2 inch above the front crossmember, hang below the top tube of the steering rack. Thanks, JS

Mike, I've got one of those adapters! (I'm an old Olds hotrodder) I can't remember, but I think you also have to space the converter to flexplate with appropriate washers. The olds 455 is a torque monster! Mondello makes lots of cool hipo parts. He probably put a couple of kids through college on my old(s) addiction! If you want to pay for shipping, about 10-12 lb, it, it yours. Let me know! JS

Anyone using the JTR engine mounts: How much oil pan to ground clearance do you have? How high is your crankshaft centerline in relation to any fixed point in the chassis. For example, top of steering rack, or what ever? I know this will vary with suspension mods, engine types etc. just trying to get a ball park figure. Still pondering a new mount for the procharger w/o hammering, cutting, etc. Thanks JS [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited May 29, 2000).]

There won't be any kits, so some fabrication will be necessary. If you're not comfortable with the task, and even for the conversion veteran, it can be pretty frustrating at times, I'd check some of your local custom rod shops for help. As usual, the JTR manual will give info. on good engine placement, (for v8, but applicable to all) wiring, trans choices, some smog info, and many other good tips. There are plenty of legal Z conversions running around CA. I'd try asking what they've had to do with emmissions. Post your emmission ? in "Misc Tech" forum, maybe someone can give you more info. It would make a cool swap, not high on the hp chart, but a good reliable, readiliy availible engine. JS [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited May 29, 2000).]

Fast Frog, good #s for the altitude. 700R4? Check your Email. JS

Matt, Bummer. Knocks are never good,...unless its publisher's clearinghouse with a million dollar check. Sorry to hear the news. Had an elusive one once, my cam walked forward and a lobe contacted the block, ouch! Had to remachine/bearing/ring everything. Good luck! JS

With one of the most rust prone cars in the universe, has anyone, with success, undercoated thier beloved ride? If you found a cherry Z and wanted to insure it stayed that way, what would be a good product? Should it be professionally applied? JS

I believe the stock engine was at an offset too, only to a lesser degree. JS

Iamjackal, I really don't know squat about the engine. It just seemed a great alternative for the light weight Z. I do know the few running the combination around here swear by it. I could ask one of the local racers if it would be allright to give his number to you. He's been running the 377 for 4 or 5 years with excellent results. No break downs, really consistant. He uses the Brodix heads. Let me know if you want to make contact with him. JS [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited May 26, 2000).]

Also, If you use a T5 from a camaro/firebird with the nonstock bellhousing, the trans. mount is going to be at an angle. It would be easier to use the T5 bellhousing and trans as a complete set. I've heard swapping extension housings might be an option (no WCT5 S10 tailhousings with speedo hook up. You'd have to go electronic) Fabricating angled crossmember mounts can be a pain. JS

Thanks Fastfrog. I sent you an email earlier. I think you'd really like ATIs unit. They really were the leaders in gear driven, high psi, affordable chargers. The 2.75 driven pulley I have now will run @ 7000rpm, just below the 60,000 redline. (No I haven't turned my engine that high since I installed the new pulley.) Even though you want "only" 8psi, check out the billet impeller. You'll always want more! (Maybe all the new ones come with them??) JS

I read somewhere that the clutch surface should be broken in around 500 miles. I barely drive that a year! Once I get the rest of my parts, there's No way can I wait that long to give my new trans a go. Isn't there another way to hurry the process. I'm planning on the Centerforce dual frict. JS

Andrew, Mike might be in the right area. I'd look in the area around where the filler tube goes into the case. Sometimes the dipstick tube seal pulls out a little. If its your TV cable, then you have my sympathy. Those #$% are hell to get to. 700s are awesome automatics. That second gear shift is too wild to keep in line! Welcome to the site! JS [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited May 24, 2000).]

Excellent!! I'd love to see pictures of a completed project! JS

While checking under my car for suspicious looking components, I noticed one of my tie rod ends had a boot starting to go. Hmmm, felt a little sloppy too. (While the ends are out would be a good time to upgrade some bushings with urethane). What are some good alignment #s for a primarily street use Z? I"m running Motorsport springs, about 1.5 inch lower than stock. 205 50 16f/225 50 16 r. Slightly more weight towards the rear. Suggestions? JS

Gee, did I win a new Centerforce dual friction Clutch? I'll be needing it pretty soon...Where's the prize girl? JS [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited May 23, 2000).]

All my research with owners of T5s, transmision shops, etc. says stay away from the older models. I saw a pile of gear shafts from the older model. They are pretty weak, not to mention their bearings are also smaller. The world class has a marginally stronger shaft and bigger bearings. A friend of mine still tore up his 2 day old WC T5 in a 5.0 camaro. There are some T5 builders that swear their's are stronger. Jim Biondo is pretty good testament with his 550hp+ 130mph+ 1/4 mile Z. His builder, Liberty Gears has an address in an earlier post. There's another, www.gearzone.net/t5.htm that builds new cases with a counter shaft retainer, much stronger than stock. He also says if you drag race the trans, it will die. These after market builders charge about $1,200-1500 for their trans. The price range is getting close for a good used beefier T56. Look at what you might be wanting for power down the road. I don't want to knock the WCT5 too much. For a lower hp application, it has great ratios and is extremely light. It just can't take a lot of abuse for long. JS [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited May 22, 2000).]

A dial indicator and degree wheel is the only way on a installed cam. On one out of the block, and at least with Comp Cams, they always have stamped my grind # on the front end of the camshaft. A catalog with lobe profiles, or a call to their tech line will fill in the blanks. JS

Greg, the 700107 is a 153 tooth flywheel. The starter you picked fits the 168 tooth. (off center bolt holes) You need one with the inline bolt holes to fit the smaller diam. flywheel. JS

Looks cool Scottie. Hope you never need it! When are you going to the track? JS

Mike, get the new car craft June edition. They have a great article on timing and carb tuning. Big cams, lower compression, high altitudes, like much more initial. I'd bet you'll be in the 16 to 18 degree range. Total advance in by 2500-3000. Some combos. will like more than 35 total, some a little less. This is where most people get into trouble. Most distributers have too much mechan. advance built in. They find the engine responds well to the new advanced initial, but forget or don't bother to check how much they've added to the total, say @ 3000 rpm. Get your initial set for best off line perf., then start working on the total. Probably need to reduce the mechanical with whatever limiters your mechanical advance requires. I've fabricated advance slot stops for stock HEIs. Aftermarket dist, like Mallory, MSD, should have a simple way of adjusting the total. Usually a tab or set screws. Too, much up on top is dissaster for an engine. As soon as any predet. is reached, power is gone, sometimes so are the pistons! I used to run a 265/256 @ .050, .600 lift, and 106(!) lobe sep angle. Talk about a radical sounding idle, up to almost 4000 before it got smooth! I had the red hot headers until I bumped it to 18+ degrees. I couldn't believe the low end it added to the already strong engine. It really cleaned up the throttle response, idle mixture/ speed also became adjustable. JS [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited May 20, 2000).]

Or, have the car towed to the muffler shop. They can't check for pin holes etc, but will get you ready to fire off. If you live in a neighborhood like mine, those 2500 rpm, 30 minute, open exhaust cam run-ins, are hell on neighborly relations. Most of the turbo style mufflers still get really loud at anything but idle, and I was still pushing my luck with a muffler! In my younger days, used to run around with open exhaust for weeks at a time, never had a problem...that is with the valves! I know we have better metallurgy today. JS

Mike,You mention Synchromesh fluid in a few of your past posts. Is this a type of ATF? How many quarts does the T56 require, and just how expensive is the stuff? Is it a GM product? Thanks JS

A case of beer? Really, it sounds like your on the road to recovery. We'll all be able to learn something from your frustrating fuel fiasco. It will be interesting to see how many degrees timing makes a difference in underhood temps. I bet your itching to get back out to kick some @$$. Good luck. JS