John Scott

OK you hot dogs pushing 4-500 hp. How big of a fuel line do you need to accomplish the delivery. Can the stock tank be re-plumbed or is a fuel cell an easier solution. I'm running the 140 series Mallory(is that a bad word now?) so I'm pretty sure it can feed the engine lots more than it currently needs. I've been straying to some supercharged/turbo 90 degree v6 sites with some amazing engine combos. 0-60 in the 2s and sub 11 sec. 1/4s w/3500+lbs! People claiming 600 hp (very questionable), but some fun info. just as well. Got me rethinking my boost and rpm combo. Not to mention the bottom end of my engine! Intercooler! Gas, I need more gas! John Scott

Alright Myron!!, The high stall converters are pretty wierd. I used to have a 4000+ converter. At anything but 1/4 mile trips it seemed like a big slush box. Once you are used to the feel, they sound pretty racey. People who know drag cars will know you're serious. Nailed to the floor and they pull like a freight train. I have sympathy for your tires! That 700 1st is hard to beat, but maybe it is too low for a high powered lightweight like yours. Now, go kick some A$$!! John

Thanks, its just a Autotransecotmy. Some new and lighter implants. John

Danno, I'm going to be in Berthoud sometime next week or the first of the following. Might drive the Z if your interested in seeing it. Probably last roadtrip for awhile. Car is due for surgery. When I get closer to my work date I can confirm the location and time. Maybe we could meet before you head to work? I'm usually at the site by 6AM. John

Do you have the GTO body?? Like to hear more about your project. Must be a screamer! John [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited April 05, 2000).]

Al, I don't know if this will help, but I had a similar problem in one of my cars, until a sharp mechanic friend of mine made a suggestion. I used to get the vibration under acceleration and sometimes braking. I found out that one of my u-joints was starting to seize. There was no play in it, but it had lost part of its range of rotation. Only under accel or braking did it reach that point transmitting the vibration. I had to pull the shaft and check the range of motion before I discovered the problem. Your diff. will want to pitch up under power changing the angles. You might also want to tie down your diff. mount, if you haven't already, as recommended in the JTR book. Hope you find the problem. John [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited April 05, 2000).]

Mike, I just asked for an early Ford solenoid. Truck, Mustang, I don't recall. The part # on mine is : D2AF-11450-AA Motorcraft REM. If they make a heavy duty model go with that. Anyone else have a current #? The wiring is: Battery cable to the front terminal of the solenoid(toward front of car when mounted on the fender) Back large terminal to the starter. This can be really short if you mount it low. (you can see mine in my engine pic, right behind fuel regulator) Solenoid wire goes on the S terminal. The I terminal you leave empty. Fabricate a bus bar to join the large battery terminal on the starter to the starter's solenoid terminal. The one you'd jump across to activate the starter. John

Lee, that squeal was your tires melting behind you. They were still spinning when you hit 5th! Since I'm going T5 now, do you happen to know what your drive, driven gears are in the trans? What rear gears are you using? John

Mike, I read an article about cures for hard starting chevys awhile back. I use a FORD solinoid, the one mounted on the fender, and ran a bus bar across the terminals of my starter (made a small bar out of 16 ga. copper.) You get more juice to the starter. It may fix your problem as well. Also makes it easier to adjust valves when you need to bump the engine over. John

Danno: Welcome to the peaceful, relaxing world of Z conversions, where everything goes as it should. HAHAHA! What else would you rather do on a snowy weekend? I can't wait to get some coil overs under my car. The benefit as I see it is more room for larger tires (Your traction is really going to be limited!) adjustable ride height, and spring rates. The bigger the rim and shorter the sidewall the less deflection in corners, and the harsher the ride. Straightline accel. will be compromised, too. Rob seems to have his Z dialed in really well for his autocrossing (of course some good driving is at work here too). Ask yourself how far do you want to push the corners? When I pulled my engine and put in the 4.3 I raised the front 1.5 inches (my engine is 18" from the radiator) After using lowering springs (Motorsport) I had to re-level the car by using shorter front tires. Coilovers would have solved that problem. I don't give a hoot about ride quality so I'm going to go pretty stiff. Dave at Ariz zcar says that if you overdo this you'll fly off any corner with bumps, that isn't race track smooth. You need some give to keep the tires in contact. I'm going to quiz the other members when the time comes as to what spring rates seem to be working. Since you are going with the Limited slip, are you going to run a rear swaybar? I'm going to pull my trans. pretty soon. Let's try to meet somtime before then, otherwise its probably going to be awhile before my 5 speed is complete. John

Tony: If you follow the cable adjustment like I stated, you can't go wrong. It is made to be self adjusting once it is retracted. WOT sets it into the correct place. You won't need to guess on the initial tension.I did a lot of research on these trannys when I got interested in them, set up, preferable years etc. If nothing else, and once the trans and cable are in the car, go to a reputable trans shop and have them adjust the cable. They'll do it just like I described. Takes 5 seconds to get it right. Looking through my old mags. CarCraft July 1995 pg. 94 has a picture of the geometry and adjustment description. Also, if running top end at WOT (4th)is important to you, I think the later z28 trans were capable of this. Otherwise you can upgrade to the Vette/z28 internals and do the same. If your happy with 3 gears to romp with and a overdrive for crusing the others will work just fine. Good luck! John John [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited April 02, 2000).]

Oh yeah, don't defeat the lock up. I think its crucial to the lubrication circut in 4th. Toy shop transmissions has a kit for this w/ instructions. Locks up when you shift to 4th. 909-620-5849. The brake switch kit disingages lock up when you brake. John

Takman, I'm a little AR about that TV cable. Look for a publication on correct geometry for the set up. It has to be placed properly on the carb. 1 1/2 inches between throttle mounting stud center and TV stud center. 1 3/16 from shaft centerline to TV stud centerline. aprox 4 3/4 from mount braket face to tv stud center @ idle. Shoot for 1 1/8 inch cable extension from idle to full throttle. Prestige performance 909-629-6447, or maybe Darrel young, or Carl Rossler trans can give you a visual. If they can't I can email you the specs. Adjust the cable: push in the reset tab (next to the mounting bracket, hold it in (its HARD to push) and pull the cable from behind until stops against the fitting. Release the reset tab. Open your throttle WIDE OPEN. The cable will ratchet into the correct position. (If it didn't your old cable is probably stretched. Put in a new one the right length before it goes in. You'll never thread it back into the tranny when its in a Z.) DON'T mess with the setting. It will be tight at WOT. This insures a proper fluid pressure in relation to your shifts. Improper settings can really shorten the longivity. Remember the tv cable isn't just a downshift cable. I've been running these trannys since 1987. Get it right and it you'll love it. John [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited April 01, 2000).] [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited April 01, 2000).]

This is it Myron. You've paid your dues, so the next ones got to work! Looking for you in the I'm tellin ya board soon. Good luck! John

Cool project, Frank! Ahhh,... the M22. The Best SOUNDING set of gears ever made! I could listen to that trans go through the motions all day! Keep us posted John

Danno, excuse me for butting in, but I was wondering when the pieces will start to come together? Looking forward to another CO Z! Are you going with rear discs? John

Wow Danno, your off to a hell of a start. It sounds like you know what you want. Yes, April 1 should be renamed Zconversion day! Good luck with the transformation. I was in Berthoud this AM...that concrete mixer that woke you up @ 6:20? That was for me! I should have started wrenching on your car between jobs! We'll meet soon I'm sure. SpencZ: Now take a deep breath and..put..the..wrench..and torches...down. WHAT IN THE @#&* WORLD are you building?? Franken-Z?? Honestly, I can't wait to see your "creation" Send some pics in soon! [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited March 29, 2000).]

Thank you sir, for the #s. Also for the good laugh on the other board. Examining different year Zs, with quite a bit of cussing and bleeding, I found that clutch pedals were different from year to year. The 72s really aren't too bad. Still, I'm not much of contortionist. Salvage yard ?: Why is the car with the most hopeful part always placed too close to the next, which invariably has lots of sharp protrusions right were you'd like to work? [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited March 29, 2000).]

All this pounding and bending is almost funny! Where else do you get to beat the crap out of something you love? And get good results! A great tension release too

Thanks Lee, Go ahead and give me the part #s. We have autozones. ..And I'm way too familiar with the "F" word dealer! Since my Z was always clutchless I had to order a new pedal and clip. All the salvage yard ones had worn pins and pedals beyond use. New ones are surprisingly inexpensive! John [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited March 28, 2000).]

Myron, I can sympathize. I trashed my previous 700 the same way. But you are one pesistant $@& right? Your bad a$$ Zs are going to rewrite performance history.

I'm getting close on getting my WCT5. We're going to work out a trade for my 700R4. (He's tired of shifting. I can't wait!) Are you still giving a thumbs up to your Ford clutch master solution? I want to make this swap as painless as possible and it sounded like a good solution. Thanks, John

We have ethonol. New computers recognize the leaner mixture and richen it, burning more gas. My gross polluter (actually runs pretty clean)Zcar is supposed to burn leaner. Onl driven about 500 mi/year! The majority of us with clean burners are making up for the polluters. (My 99 150 doesn't even registar on the CO, HC test. at any rpm!)

every winter, Feb.-Mar. we get the higher Oxy fuels. Have to retune the Z and my Truck gets 3mpg less than in summer months. Runs like crap!

SpeedRacer: Don't let me take your candy! It would be a great addition to your already way cool car. Hp isn't everything. Those Italians have a way with mechanical music. Allegro!