hughdogz
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Posts posted by hughdogz
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This is some info from BHJ about installing one of their products, but you can see that each manufacture may require different install techniques. I would think any quality balancer shouldn't be hit with a hammer or overheated. I found this a good reminder after reading....
Hey thanks for that info Chino 240Z.
The instructions that came with the powerforce only had instructions for domestic engines too. I found it interesting to note that in the BHJ instructions, they say to measure the crank snout and hone the bore of the damper to within 0.001/0.0015" smaller than the crank snout.
I wish the powerforce instructions would say this and also list the Nissan OEM specs for the damper ID, keyway width, height and crank snout OD. Their instructions and website only deals with domestic specs...
What are the Nissan OEM specs? Does anyone know if the measurements I took are correct? The FSM doesn't list them...
0.001/0.015" corresponds to 0.0254/0.0381 mm. I would think that would make the damper spec 34.97 mm + 0.00 / -0.013. To be within tolerance would make the smallest ID 34.96mm, which is about half a thousandth BIGGER than their 34.95 mm nominal.
I hope I don't have to explain this to powerforce again today...yesterday they kept saying that my damper bore is within tolerance. I tried to explain that maybe they have their nominal wrong, but tolerance right. They said their nominal is 34.95mm not 34.97...hmm...
I'm gonna call them back right now...hopefully they will either give me my damper back or give me a new one (like they said they would do) since mine is slightly boogered up from my botched install...argh!! If I'm really nice, maybe they'll let me upgrade to the 90000 series
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Here is my dog Maku (Maku = Kuma transposed, Kuma = big bear in Japanese). He is an American Akita (versus a Japanese Akita). I rescued him from a shelter in Longview, WA about three years ago.
He is 130 pounds and very mellow most of the time (believe it or not) and furry as hell. Also, he just LOVES his 260Z:
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I bled the master on the car...what is bench bleeding.
Just what ZManco described above...same thing as bleeding it on the car, only you bleed it on a workbench with a vise, etc. Make sure you doen't get any air cracking the bleeders on the side of the m/c under pressure.
I had the same problem you're describing when I accidently let my reservoir run dry when bleeding...bleeding the master cured it.
You did make sure you have the hole in the adjuster on the threaded rod for the new m/c at roughly the same distance from the mounting flange on the old m/c?
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I think what you're describing is that the needle valve fell out.
What I think may be happening is that the fuel is pumping into the bowl but the float won't close the needle valve. Then you could get fuel spraying out of the top of the float chamber through the barbed fitting like you're describing...
Check the needle valve and see if it will still seal when closed. If not, get a new one from Ztherepy in Salem.
If it still works, you may have to adjust the float. If it is not contacting the needle perpendicular, it may not close all the way. To adjust the float, bend the mounting tab so there is ~3/8 inch space between the top of the float and the cover (...I'm not 100% on the 3/8") ensuring they remain as parallel as possible. This is also how you roughly adjust the mixture (the fine mixture adjust ment is the knob below the jet nozzle).
Also, it might be a good idea to attach a hose to the barbed fitting, then into a container to catch any gas spillage while you're testing...
Did this all the sudden start happening? Maybe the return line is somehow plugged or kinked?
-HTH
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Great find Austin! It is so new, you don't even have to change the oil for another 4600 miles...lol (j/k)
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...I tried heat,cleaning the crank and after testing with two
OEM pullies,determined that the bore was too small...
...Compare the keyway groove to an OEM and You will seewhat I mean...
Aha! It isn't just me, or mine was already "correct". I also noticed the key BARELY fits in the damper keyway. Did you get a chance to take measurements, or just hand comparison?
So it sounds to me like the "tricks" are to chamfer the keyway entrance a bit, hone the bore, heat and an installer.
Thanks for the tips and confirmation Russell, I really appreciate it man.
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It sounds like a good company you work for if they also help pay for school and let you surf Hybridz from time to time.
If you still decide to leave, you might be able to find quite a few leads in the SW discussion forums...
I know what you mean about enjoying your job is pretty much top priority.
I'll see if I can whip out another model tonight so my CAD skills don't get too rusty-dusty!!
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Hey thanks for the article John.
I know a local Z-guy with one of those. I wonder how difficult it would be to get new decals for it. After 28 years, that stuff starts to crack and crumble.
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Edit: Thanks Jon, you're golden (and right on
).Nice modeling cygnusx1! How long did it take you to whip that baby out? I know how challenging it is to get swoopy shapes just right without using a $20-80k modeling package. Is it a surface model? kewl...
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Hey thanks for the Re: Vinh!
I agree, the steering is a LOT heavier than regular manual (compared to my 260). I might take your suggestion and get a manual rack, they run$250-300 through black dragon, but I may be able to get it cheaper somewhere else...
What still puzzles me is that the steering was lighter when the pump was connected, but idle. This leads me to believe there is still something not right with the way I just looped it. There seems to be SIX places where hoses / tubes connect to the column part of the rack...I need to find fittings that will work for looping the tubes at the ends of the rack, not just the pump / reservior.
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anybody know what company or other car has seat brackets to fit 83 280zx turbo ? i got a pair of bride brix an i wanna put them on but does anyone know of a car or does stock seat bracket work with modification? i know wedge engineering makes brackets but.. pricey an sit higher then usual.
I know that Sparco made the brackets for my seat. For MSA's "garage sale" they had a ton that fits these wide seats (Brides, Corbeau, Sparcos)
Once you get them mounted, mostl likely you'll find that they seem too wide (the door hits the shoulder part of the seat. Also, for my Sparco, the recliner knob interferes with the door threshold. That is why MSA is stopped selling the brackets for the BIG seats!! If you move the seats inward, now you're not centered in front of the steering wheel anymore.
If you've already bought the seats, I'd call MSA. They might have some left for CHEAP!!
Good luck!
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It has been asked before but no good posts: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=85745&highlight=power+steering+loop
I searched for quite awhile and came up empty.
Does anyone know how to "properly" remove the power steering assist from the rack and pinion to go manual? Or has someone looped theirs without any problems?
I already removed the pump and reservoir line going to the rack. Is it safe to just loop it? I already found they DEFINATELY shouldn't be plugged!!
I ended up looping it and it seems like might be fighting more pressure than with the pump connected but idle.Is it necesary to remove the rotary valve or also loop the fluid lines? This is for an 82 280ZXT GL.
Thanks for any insights!!
Edit: Now that I pressed the post button it dawned on me...loop the fluid lines with each other and plug the four holes in the rack. That should take the "power" out of the equation and return fluid from one side of the rack to the other??? I'm still kind of puzzled how it all works, but this this helped me a bit: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/steering4.htm
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I'll call powerforce tomorrow and see what they say...
I called Professional Products today and spoke with John. He was really nice and understanding and said they'll replace it if I send it back. Spec ID is 34.95 mm so even with that you'd think it would be hard to turn on the crank snout??
The only slightly negative thing they had to say was they never heard of this problem with the L-series dampers, but since I got one of the first batch (sent to MSA) then anything is possible. More importantly they wanted to check mine out if in case there was a problem, they'll sure to know about it.
I'm sending it off right now, I just wanted to let you guys know that they stand behind their product and (at least) I'm happy with their customer service!
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Time to get out the calipers and take some measurments before you got bonkers. Make sure the hole is not much smaller than the factory pulley. You dont want to press it on and have to pull the motor to get the pulley off later.
Cygnusx, I took your advice and here is what I found:
Crank OD = 35.00 mm
280ZX damper ID = 34.99 mm
Powerforce ID = 34.79 mm
(and yes, I am going bonkers!!)
The damper should slip on with a couple taps of a rubber hammer. Any more force than that, then something is wrong. Don't assume that the damper is correct.......I'd call Powerforce.Z-ya, I think you hit the damper on the head!! I can slip my OEM damper on and off all day like butter (by hand) by comparison. I put a spare 280zx damper on with ONE HAND...took me ten seconds. I even pulled it back off (took me two hands & some wiggling) to make sure the key didn't slip out.
The damper is 0.20mm (EIGHT thousandths) too small. I probably (stupidly) lost sixteen hours of my life fighting it. I was so stupid because in the instructions they say if the fit is tight, it must be you, because we machine these perfectly...doh!!
I like the way the 280zx dampers have a small tapered portion to make sure you're getting it lined up correctly.
I'll call powerforce tomorrow and see what they say...
If they flip me the bird, I guess I'll have to get it enlarged somehow...
I've had the same problem with a couple stock dampeners the key keeps flipping out. Glad I'm not the only one I felt like such an ass when I cracked a pulley...76s30, I think just about everyone who's ever removed a damper before cracked one trying to get it back on (me and half my Z-buddies)
I tell ya, this has been one LONG stressful learning experience for me!!
Now back to getting the rest of the engine together by tomorrow for PIR...
ps: I hope the batch that Bubbles is planning doesn't have this problem.
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How did you get the hole to end up round??
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If you have the stock EFI, then the answer is it depends. If you are off accel and above 3500 RPM, then the fuel is cut to the engine. I heard this eats a lot of oil through the PCV, but I'm not sure about that.
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Hey, thanks for the Re: Cody...at least I don't feel alone now..hehe
Well, the installer at Napa didn't come in the M16x1.5 size so I didn't buy it (luckily I brought the bolt to make sure)
I made my own installer using a longer bolt and a few damper washers from the various engines laying around. STILL NO LUCK!! even after a hours of trying I can't get the sucker to line up perfectly.
Usually, the key comes out of the circular pocket in the crank right away if the keyway isn't clocked perfect. One time I got it lined up just right, but the key still rotated its way out of the pocket almost 45 degrees and got smashed. Luckily I stopped in time so I didn't crack the damper. I even tried gluing the key in!!
I still think the ID of the damper is still too small, it won't rotate on the crank at all.
I'll give it another whirl, but if I can't get it then I'm going to an OEM one...bah!!
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Same thing happened to me (althought I didn't upgrade the refrigerant still the old R-22 or R12). I can't believe how much oil was everywere!! Did that happen to you?
I thought one of the components went bad so I pulled the A/C system in favor of weight savings and space. In Oregon, we hardly need A/C except for a few weeks a year. I wish I still had mine installed since we're supposed to get up to 105F this week...I kept all my old components so maybe just the valve blew and my system is okay.
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WOW! No replies yet...I guess I'm the only one having trouble with these?!
Thanks for the views...lol
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Hugh,
Are you planning to install an EGT for each cylinder and just use a rotary type switch to select which one to monitor and when?
Hi Paul, you ask some good questions. Right now the plan is to just keep the one without a switch. I like the way others installed them in the collector, but you might get temps that may be hundreds of degrees below actual. That is why I chose the runner. However, the collector would give a better average temp than just one cylinder. I wonder which would location gets a more accurate reading:
1) In a single runner, where it is closest to the combustion chamber, yet you only get 1/6th the exhaust pulses to read. You'd think that this would give more time for the probe to cool down between pulses.
2) In the collector, where you get cooler gasses since it is further from the combustion, but there is less sensor cooldown time between pulses.
I KNEW there was a reason why I posted here to get feedback before I drilled into the cermaic manifold I got from Ron.
Be honest, do you think I made a poor choice in the location? Multiple EGT's and a rotary switch would be nice, but with the price of EGT's (and FITTINGS) I'd probably be better off with multiple WBO2 sensors.Warren-I appreciate the pics. Thank you. That is a REALLY clean install. I might have to plug the hole in runner 6 and go your route.
Tony D, thanks for listing those other fitting choices. I had no idea they were available. If for some crazy reason I need to do multiple EGTs, I'll definately source those "knockoffs". If I only knew 1/1000 of the stuff you know, I might be twice as knowledgeable as I am now and I'd probably be four times as "dangerous"...lol
[Edit] Okay, now that I re-read this, you can still go with the swagelock...and the compression "sleeve" still fits too?
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I finally got around to installing mine. I had to take the manifold off because of a leaky gasket so this was the perfect chance for the EGT probe install.
Like others mentioned, the bungs that came with the Autometer EGT probe are a joke. They loosely fit the 3/16" probe and used a set screw lol. This would leak worse than the gasket I was replacing!!
Thanks to this post, I found that they make a compression fitting. I found one, but the list price of the compression bung was $78...I found for $38. There has to be a cheaper piece other than welding in the bung.
It is reccomended to install 1-2 inches from the head, so the best place I could come up with is in the cylinder 6 runner. I never tapped an NPT thread before, to tap the hole you need a "Q" drill bit (I suppose that is a tapered bit?) or 21/64" drill and a reamer.
It really wasn't that difficult once you figure out how to do it. I hope this might help out others wondering how to do the install.
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Does anyone know if there is a trick to get these suckers on?
I've done about 1/2 hour of searching and I'm still puzzled...
They seem to fit MUCH tighter than the OEM ones and I've about had it. I tried the usual stuff...emery cloth, heating the damper, lubricant, etc. and it still won't go on even with a block and rubber mallet (which I HATE to do since it could ruin the bottom end:bonk:)
I've installed dampers from 240's 260's and 280zx's and never had this much trouble. I'm finally giving up and buying an installer tomorrow (~$65 from Napa).
The frustrating part is that I'd always end up moving the key out of its socket from it sitting too high somehow or not lining up perfectly tapping the damper on.
I would turn the crank if I tried to clock the keyway (the tinyest bit) to line it up since the damper has so much interference with the crank, even if the damper was on just a little bit (like 1/8").
I did discover a good way to line up the keyway to the key before you start pressing on the damper using a zip tie. The bigger ones are a perfect fit in the keyway width-wise.
I hope Napa is open tomorrow on the 4th so I can pick up the installer. I sure hope I don't end up cracking the damper or find out that I messed up the bottom end!!
I'm sure someone has installed one of these already...did you need an installer? This is for an '82 L28ET but you'd think they should fit any L-series engine the same.
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Lookin' Awesome KTM!!
It won't be long now until the real fun starts.
That's quite the setup for your coilpacks...are they completely mounted?
Great job.
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Here's mine: 1982 280ZXT
I'll edit the post with the mods later...
Engine:
Not much yet. Need to install an IC and Wolf3D
-Home-made manual boost controller
-Bosch fuel pump for Porsche 944T
-Pallnet fuel Rail
-Aeromotive AFPR
-Aeromotive stainless braided fuel lines
-K&N cone filter and mandrel bent intake pipe
-K&N fuel filter
-Removed A/C, power steering, etc.
-HUGE aluminum radiator (from Ron Tyler / Paul Ruschman) barely fits between frame rails
-Cusco oil catch can
Interior:
-Converted to Black
-All panels custom black diamond-tuck
-Sparco Seats
-4-point Schroth seat belts
-EGT and Boost gage in dual A-pillar pod for a Miata
Suspension:
-Tokico Blues struts
-Tokiko lowering springs
-Suspension Techniques front and rear sway bars
-Techno Toy Tuning roll center adjusters
-Cusco front and rear strut tower braces
-Poly bushing all around
Brakes:
-Power-slot rotors
-Stainless braided lines (& clutch too)
Exterior:
-MSA body kit (airdam, sides and rear plus California wing)
-New paint (Acura electron blue pearl)
-R32 Skyline fog lights
-Magnaflow knockoff muffler (2.5" in, dual 2.5" out)
-Hella H4 headlights with PIAA arctic blue bulbs
I ended up looping it and it seems like might be fighting more pressure than with the pump connected but idle.
safety in china
in Non Tech Board
Posted
Not to be-little the thread, but aren't the first and 3rd more like India or Malasia or something?
I've been to Shangahi twice, and it is AMAZING how many skyscrapers are going up around there...instead of metal scaffolding, they use bamboo. Instead of concrete pumpers, they have workers climb the scaffolding like hundreds of little ants with gallon buckets!!
The pic with the guy and the cellophane just makes me want to shake my head for sure!