hughdogz
-
Posts
757 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
2
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by hughdogz
-
-
I think that would be fine...it is now an open system because you don't have the vacuum to purge the vapor from the carbon hooked up anymore. The carbon container is basically just a big filter that way. It won't hurt performance leaving it that way as long as you don't plug the barbs for the lines on the canister that you removed...
Maybe you're right that there are only two purge lines and the fuel tank vapor line.
-
If you live somewhere where they don't require a carbon canister, it can be removed.
This is how you could do it on a ZX: Cap off the line at the bottom of the TB, top of the intake manifold, and one at the intake boot. Remove the hose for the fuel tank line but DON'T cap off the fuel line!! At this point, there are no more hoses so problem solved. Eh, you can remove the carbon canister too if you want.
As for the hard tubing from the fuel tank that remains in the engine bay, it is better to not just leave it there, or else fuel vapors can collect and you know what that could mean when you go to start your car on a hot summer day after work...
The best solution I've heard so far is to cut the fuel line back by the filler neck and make a loop so it will be less likely that fuel sloshes out or contaminants go in. There is an access panel in the wheel well on ZX's not sure about 280Z's. You can also use a filter on the end too.
There has already been dicussions on this...I'm sure you could find them if you
for it. Seems like almost everything z-related has been discussed here a time or two and then some!! -
Almost finished with the lower pan on my 280ZX, but I still have to figure out how to finish up the sides and do a top now. I might have to make a cross bracket...it seems like that is how Scott did his.
Pics are over in my project page: http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=796319&postcount=3
-
Well, since I'm stalled on my IC install until next week, I thought I'd start the Aero ducting.
This is what I need to block off for better aerodynamics and directing the air into the intercooler and radiator area:
These are the patterns for the sides and the "tester" piece I had to sacrifice:
Folded:
All three pieces:
Driver side:
(that hole in the side piece is where I mount my horn bracket)
Passenger side:
It would be nice to roll some beads into the lower piece to stiffen it up a bit. I don't know who in town would have one, but I think that "ZX" or something would look cool here.
If anyone has any comments or suggestions (good or bad) PM me. Thanks!
[Edit: 8/10/2007]
Wowww.....now that is shiny...and it will never look this clean again, lol
I know, I know...why did I have to go and rice it all up with the decal right away...been holding on to that one for three years waiting for just the right place! zweet.
If it actually stiffened the piece then it wouldn't be rice?[Edit]
-
If I'm ever reincarnated, I want to be a Russian seatbelt!!
-
Good deal, thanks for the info, I been looking on the web for a adapter and have not found anything yet... I live in a small town so a performance shop is hard to come by... will keep searching thanks!
Like this:
Now you owe me $5 finders fee (just kidding 82)
You might also want to consider getting some t-bolt or accuseal clamps as well if you are going for high boost...HTH
-
I'm running N/A and the cam profiles are different between turbo and non. Anyone know what the difference would be?
I don't have specifics, but I'm pretty sure that valve overlap is less on turbosthan n/a because of reversion from the higher pressure exhaust gasses in a turbo application.
-
Hey Hugh, I was at my machinist today picking up my new downpipe I had welded up and guess what I saw....
A very nice P90 head just waiting to be ported.
He said he was just cleaning it up for you. Do you have big plans for the head? I'd enjoy seeing how a ported head helps your L28 turbo.
Yes indeed. I'm gonna port it.
Well, I may port this one...The head you saw is actually a small part of the "big plan" which I won't bore you guys with at this time...plus it is top secret
j/k. It will get relatively mild unshrouding and exhaust runner work...really just smoothing out the stock restrictions.I hope you were able to check out cyl#1 that Paul did the die grinding demonstration on. Just this mild work should help it breathe a lot easier. I'm going small now so I can get experience...and if I mess up, not as much material will have to be re-added...hopefully not any.
It will then go back to Rusch Motorsports to get the seats cut, 5-angle valve job, my work inspected and cam installed...But, with just this mild amount of work, I'm kind of reluctant to use the head with the OEM EFI...even with a stock cam because of the VE change. I won't be able to tell the before / after effects of the head work alone due to my plan unfortunately (I'd really like to know via dyno numbers too!! Hmm...I know where there is a flowbench
)I have to get the Wolf3D system ready to go before I can even think about installing the head...this whole upgrade thing is proving to be a challenge for me.
Turbo downpipe huh? I really need to get me one of those soon too...probably better to do the DP first before the head porting like the route you've chosen.
Whoo hoo!! I'm getting the head back tomorrow!
-
The cam might not be the problem, it could just be the valve adjustment, however you might want to pull the valve cover and check to make sure yours doesn't look like mine.
How did those two (or more) lobes get so worn down?? I have a Schneider stage 2 turbo cam I have yet to install. They recommend new springs if there is over 0.460" lift, but the stage 2 is 0.460" lift. Did you use the OEM springs or Schneider ones? Sorry if you mentioned this in another thread...I looked but this seems like your first post about this...thanks.
[Edit: Doh! I see your thread now naviathan...]
-
Also, you may lose your hearing eventually. Especially if you drive next the the barrier in the passing lane. This was my friend's experience with that setup on a 510.
-
Finally making some slow progress on the install...I'm using 2.25" tubes.
It will fit!! It took awhile just to figure out how to mount it. It hangs from the radiator core support in two places using bolted connections and "spacer-sleeves". I made an adjustable support for the bottom (basically a threaded rod that screws into the IC boss with a flanged nut at the bottom all jam-nutted).
(sorry for the blurr)This is the part I hate...cutting into the "headlight support". Easy does it.
Hmmm...I had to take out little more than I thought...it doesn't look like it, but the tube will clear the headlight easily after I trim the headlight bracket...
Damn, this is actually going to work!!
One mandrel 45 degree and I should be there!!
I knew it would be tight getting the CAI around the end tank...
I know, you're probably wondering why I chose to go through the headlight bucket...I thought that this way the bends will be more gentle instead of making hard 90's right out of the IC. I'm going to get a big enough pressure drop "as-is" with the LONG core (23.5 x 11 x 3)".
Eventually, I'll be using a Weber TB, HKS BOV and '75 intake so I'll have to rework this 2.25" unfortunately. I'm reading Corky Bell's book again and I want to incorporate a 15 degree "increaser" to go to from 2.25" to 3" for the 3.25" throttle body OD. Something like this:
lIt shouldn't be too hard to make...even easier if you have a CAD modeler that does sheet metal unfolding:
I might have to get the radiator inlet angled too because space will be so tight with the bigger diameter...
[Edit: 8/3/2007] Made a better lower IC mount...that other one wasn't going to cut it. The flange on the nut rotates, so I can use it to get everything tight.
I still have a LOT to learn about welding, but it sure is fun practicing!! I might have a full minute of trigger time under my belt now.
[Edit]
[Edit: 8/9/2007] Well, the shipment that I need to complete the job (3" intake tubes, clamps, hoses, reducers, etc.) that the UPS girl dropped off was for the WRONG CUSTOMER!!
Some guy in New York that must be putting in a dual exhaust is gonna be pretty pissed off too. No way I'll have this done by Sunday now for the Blue Lake show...well at least the pressure is off for now I guess. I have to wait until tomorrow to hear back from them since the company is on the right coast...I'm waiting to hear if I should send the parts back to MD or NY...they better reimburse the shipping.
Time to work on ducting...I don't want to make any more cuts until I have all the pieces laid out!!
[Edit]
[Edit: 8/10/2007]
Added some trim pieces so I don't rub holes in my IC tubes:
It doesn't look like they line up very well, but it is the angle of the shot...
[Edit]
-
Here's my 280ZX-T.
I've owned it since 2002 (however, I've owned z-cars since 1998). The previous owner had already installed the aero kit, new paint and 17" rims in addition to the custom diamond tuck interior. I was really impressed (and thankful) that he did all the bodywork and interior himself. I think I got a really good deal for $4750!!
Now for the mechanicals, the only upgrades on the car when I bought it was the KYB GR2 struts. I've done a lot to it since then, and I'll update the thread soon.
Over the years, I've been amassing various performance parts, TOOLS, experience and knowledge (not to mention a couple more z's
). I think that now my skill level and confidence is just high enough to start tackling some semi-serious projects that I've been planning and researching for years...I think that the bretheren here at Hybridz (and the incredible z's at the MSA shows) have probably been the most helpful and inspirational to get me going on building-up a high-performance Z...thanks everyone for that.
-
...I am trying to find that Grafoil gasket for the exh. manifold but am having no luck.
I got mine at the local Nissan parts department for $38...actually $18 with the "Z-club discount".
Make sure it is for an L28ET. I think Tony D mentions this in a different thread too.
-
I didn't know CNC machines had spell checkers!
(just kidding...I think the lettering looks good)
-
Thanks for the vote of confidence!! I knew I could count on you guys.
I appreciate the comments about ducting and sealing. I'm definately going to seal it up tight.
I can't believe the IC is finally being installed after YEARS of it just sitting in the garage!
-
I'm fabbing up the tubes for the IC on my 280ZX. Now that I have it in place I'm wondering if the radiator's air flow is going to suffer considerably.
The plan is to use 2.25" aluminized tubing. 4.5" radius mandrel u-bends routing through the headlight buckets using the factory holes and having to cut through the headlight brackets...
It is hard to get a pic of this, but there is 2" between the IC and radiator, 2" of gap above the IC and 4" below.
I'm hoping no one sees any glaring problems before I start cutting...
Thanks for looking!
Fitting the intake around the radiator was close, but getting the 3" intake pipe around the IC (on the other side of the radiator core support) will be a bigger challenge.
-
M10x1.25 for the nuts that bolt the turbo to the exhaust manifold on both of my stock manifolds...that is wierd the M10x1.25 isn't fitting for you.
-
Hey everyone, you guys wanted to see some more "roughed-in" pictures?
Paul was generous enough to show me how to do this today...I had the same questions and luckily I don't live too far from Rusch Motorsports!
He did all the grinding work for cylinder #1 (although he saved the finer abrasives work for me). We didn't mess with the intake, since the ROI is negligible compared to the exhaust and combustion chamber. I'll do my best to duplicate his work for the rest of the cylinders.
This is a P90 head...
Shrouded and bulge in the bowl (notice the hump of material around the depressed valve guide):
Unshrouded & smooth bowl:
There is also some work in blending the floor transition, but I'd have to cut my head apart to show you that.
I can start a new thread documenting the steps, etc.
Also, I would like to thank Paul again for his generosity, he is a great guy!
Here I go, there's no turning back now!
-
ZF1-J
I'm really surprised you came up with that one Veritech-Z!!
-
...What it came like 'stock' has little to do with it,...
You're absolutely right Tony D, now why didn't that dawn on me...
... if you want something that won't rattle around, 'tight' is better then 'line to line'...Agreed. I didn't consider that rattling (or key working) could happen if the fit isn't tight enough.
Who knows, I might get a inkling to bounce the rev limiter off 7->7.5k if I ever get an EMS installed...and I sure don't want to ruin components (or worse) after all that work and tuning time. I'm really liking 6k now that I've chased out that EFI Gremlin!!
So 3-8 tenths of a thousandth (maybe tolerate a tiny bit more) and some green loctite...
Your mechanical wisdom is always appreciated!
-
Thanks for that input Katman! I don't feel so noob-like now.
With 20 damper install experience that sheds some bright light on my situation...
I'm going to have to convince them of this when I call them back AGAIN tomorrow (that the L-Series don't use a press fit, rather they use more of a tight slip-fit). I wish I could get my hands on some real OEM damper specs!!
According to my calculations above, even if you size it as a press fit (which it shouldn't be) at LMC, their size is still a tiny bit small for that application. For a slip fit, it is impossible.
-
Anyone have any ideas of things to test to find the problem?
Sounds like the infamous "loses power @ ~3k RPM" or "won't go above XXXX RPM (I'm surprised this hasn't been thrown into the Toolshed yet
)I just cured this same problem today...clean the TPS, AFM and ECU connectors.
In my case it turned out to be the ECU connections. I never thought the ECU connections would get funky since it is inside the cabin, but sure enough, there was some oily residue sitting at the bottom of the connector gunking up the lower two leads of the big connector block.
To clean the connectors, if they are really green and corroded, you may have to use ~1200 grit sandpaper to clean them up (this wasn't necessary on the ECU leads). Then use some electronics cleaner (I used Berryman's...smells a lot like ether) then blow it out with some compressed air. Finally, push the connector on and off several times to help ensure you get a good connection before the final seating.
If you still think it might be fuel, you can temporarily plumb and mount a pressure gage to your windshield and go drive it to see if you're losing pressure somehow...mine went up to ~50 psi at WOT, but that is for an L28ET.
-
I'll see if I can whip out another model tonight so my CAD skills don't get too rusty-dusty!!
Cygnus, you should be proud of your skills if you were able to model that in about an hour!
I've been spending too much time on simulation rather than modeling.
Since yours looks so much better than mine, I had to add some "bling factor" to make up for it!!
I love the new cartoon rendering in Inventor!!
-
Tread lightly, friends... I hear the keys a jangling.
Good call Ron.
In an effort to bring this thread back towards the neutral direction, here is something that I think the Chinese did really well:
The maglev to the Pudong airport. It reaches a top speed of 431 KPH (268 MPH)
It has banked corners so no lateral G-forces can be felt. It takes about seven minutes to travel 30 km (19 mile) track!
We're now laying down our fourth light rail line and second electric street car line in Portland...I wonder if (and when) we'll have to get a maglev??
for it. Seems like almost everything z-related has been discussed here a time or two and then some!! 
Well, I may port this one...
j/k. It will get relatively mild unshrouding and exhaust runner work...really just smoothing out the stock restrictions.
)
(sorry for the blurr)
l
Some guy in New York that must be putting in a dual exhaust is gonna be pretty pissed off too. No way I'll have this done by Sunday now for the Blue Lake show...well at least the pressure is off for now I guess. 
)
After doing some reading.. I blocked off the upper grill *pics*
in Windtunnel Test Results and Analysis
Posted
Prox, hey thanks for the complement. It means a lot to me coming from one of you guys...and I probably couldn't (or wouldn't) have done it without Hybridz!!