hughdogz
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Posts posted by hughdogz
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X2
Lookie here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=125644
official site: http://www.zccjdm.com/
Brian is a great guy. Very knowledgable and he hardly marks up the price at all (maybe ~$20). Mostly he just wants us USA guys to be able to get JDM parts we cannot get stateside otherwise.
Hope this helps!
Later, -Hugh
[Edit: Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that he is willing to make S130 adjustable T/C rods for us. Somone just needs to send him an OEM part to work from. I've seen his work for the S30 rods he makes and the quality (and engineering) is top-notch IMHO.]
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ktm,
Thanks for getting this phenomenal write-up going.
I agree Ron is the MAN! Now if I can just figure out how to get the Wolf3D out of the cardboard box it came in, I'll be on my way...(j/k)
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zcarbum sells front and rear coilover setups for the 280ZX (S130). I don't know if they are Kameari or Cusco or what. ZCCJDM.com
Also, along a similar note, he sells front and REAR camber plates for s130's as well.
He has a HUGE parts catalogue that has TONS of S130 JDM aftermarket parts
Hope this helped...
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hugh- people have seen my car run a 13sec 1/4et....at SEZ....at 105 something mph....with a 2.5 60ft time....
Okay, so you do have a 13 sec n/a car (I didn't know I swear)! My apologies for doubting you BG.
As for the piston lightening, I'm no expert engine builder, but it would seem to me that lightening the piston would have the good effect of decreasing the inertial loads imparted to the connecting rod from the piston.
The inertial loads on the connecting rod are highest in tension during TDC of the exhaust stroke (since there isn't an opposing load from combustion or compression). Inertial loads are highest in compression at BDC of the exhaust stroke. With fatigue, the only concern is tensile load. Since F=ma, reducing the mass of the piston will reduce the fatigue load proportionally.
As long as the integrity of the piston isn't compromised it can only do goodness. As others mentioned it will no doubt have less "rotating" mass to accelerate. It seems to me like the ring-lands usually fail on forged pistons before the top of the piston running high boost anyway, so he's not even changing the weak part of the piston...but like I said, I'm no expert so I could be wrong.
I think it's a pretty clever mod myself...and probably one that will work well.
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I think you guys are right, it's not the same:
x is different than a*theta
Piston velocity is the rate of change of x's position. You can see it is different than r*w (or in this illustration a*(d_theta/dt)
I work on a 3D dynamics program that calculates inertial forces, velocities, friction, etc. It would be interesting to use it to see what the effects to the system are for weight reduction on a piston.
And Bubbles...
without a time slip or 1/4 mi vid I wouldn't even start to compare myself with 1 fast z (no hard feelings B.G.) -
Well I finally finished up the install!! Now all I have left to do is continue tweaking the preload setting on the HKS re-circulating valve (BOV).
I had to add extra plumbing and take advantage of the Weber TB so I could retain all the stock ancilliary crapola. The OEM turbo intake manifold will go away eventually, so please don't pay any too much attention to it.
(and thanks jgkurz for the tip on modifying the Weber, and zcarnut for the linkage components)It really pulls hard now, even at 7 psi. I can't seem to get it to boost much higher yet. I think I hear the valve open to recirculate, then close back up under high boost load. Even now it is a total beast compared to stock!!
Anyway, here are some garage pics:
Thanks for looking!
Later, -Hugh
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Kind of off topic, but WOW you did a superb job on the wrinkle paint for the IC tubes!!!
What's your secret?Also, Pop 'N Wood...serious thanks for the heads-up on AN versus JIC. Looks like I'm going to do the purely AN route sooner than I thought.
I thought the coupler (in the air compressor section) was 1/4" NPT, not JIC. Hmm...no wonder I only got about four threads of engagement. -
Aaron,
The hard fuel lines are 5/16" so I am going to try using 5/16 tube compression fittings to -6 AN adapters. It would be tough to flare the tubes on the regulator so I am going to try the compression fittings. I realize that they are not the best case scenario but it seems like the easiest bolt-on way to go right now.
AN-6
<---5/6" compression tubeAhh...that's how you do it!
I couldn't find those compression fitting types of AN fittings. Thanks for the link Cygnus!!
I went the "home desperate" route (term courtesy of BRAAP
) I bought a brass 5/16" compression to 1/4" NPT fitting. Then I had to get a 1/4 NPT coupler to covert it to female, so I could then use a 1/4" NPT to -6AN.I would think that the one piece is better than three (and definately look better). When I put the compression sleeve on the fuel line, I had to use 1200 grit to remove the plating and smooth it out to get the fit right. Then, to get it really tight, I was glad the fitting was Brass so I could really torque the sucker on there. I'm sure the AN one won't leak or else they couldn't keep selling them for FI.
Regards, -Hugh
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Excellent!! Thanks Zcarnut. I apprecate the link too!
You guys are the best.
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I'm installing a Weber TB and the ball diameter for the ball and socket linkage on the new TB is a tiny bit smaller than the OEM one.
Only about 1/64" smaller but it is just enough that the socket isn't very secure. The one on the Weber is threaded, but the OEM is pressed-in so I can't really swap them.
Is this a common part that my local parts place would have or do I need to go to Weber or maybe Nissan for a new linkage piece?
Thanks for any advice, -Hugh
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Welcome to Hybridz (I always wanted to say that
) and congrats on the find!!If it is truly pristine (and you want to keep it that way) then you'll want to be careful with which IC you get because almost any installation will require cutting through the radiator core support. For instance, with that NPR you could mount it in front of the radiator cutting 3" holes on either side of the radiator to run the pipes to the compressor outlet and throttle body...
Like Mario said, you can get just about any type of IC nowadays for $150, so you don't have to limit yourself to the NPR design.
How much boost are you running now? You can "safely" run up to 9psi without an intercooler before the safety BOV kicks out. I'm just guesstimating, but it feels like you get +40 horsepower with just a $12 manual boost controller.
I have a 82 280ZXT also. Did you see my member's project page? I'm almost done with my IC setup.
Also, I recommend reading the Turbo FAQ sticky a few times to get a good understanding of how the whole upgrading thing works. Then I would spend about ten hours and read all the L6 turbo posts you can find. Believe it or not, I think it saves time (and $$$) in the end.
The intercooler is but a small piece of the giant turbo puzzle...but it is a huge factor that determines which options you will have with the rest of the setup.
Mario, if it makes you feel any better, if I were to do it again, I would have chosen a different IC design than the one I bought four years ago too. LOL!
Good luck! -Hugh
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I finally decided to dead-head my fuel rail. The fuel line used to run across the front of the valve cover. I thought it would clean up the apprearance especially with the IC pipe running below it now.
Eventually, I'll cut the fuel inlet line below the firewall, and run AN line alongside the return up to the AFPR. This was easier for now.
$5.00 cap:
I used a 5/16" compression fitting to 1/4" NPT. Then 1/4" NPT to -6AN. I really should hide those ugly brass fittings...
Oh yeah, I like the looks of the 40 micron Russel filter better than the space-aged barbed-style K&N that I had on before!
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LOL! That has to be one of the funniest dreams I've heard of. I can't believe you can remember so much detail.
You should really consider logging off Hybridz before falling asleep! You know how TV can enter your dreams if you fall asleep on the couch...
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Hey Nigel,
I'm running the stock setup. The only mods to speak of is a CAI and a manual boost controller (stock J-pipe, no intercooler)
Without the boost controller, my boost was only 5psi at the intake manifold. The highest EGT I remember seeing is ~1400 F.
Cranked up the boost, and I still only get ~1400 F, even with the safety pop valve releasing...so that must be at around 9psi (I was more concerned at looking at the EGT gage than the boost gage).
I should have the IC done by next week and hope to be boosting in the 10-11psi range...
[Edit: I forgot to mention that I have the EGT probe tapped into the #6 runner, just a few inches from the head. I figured that since #5 & 6 run the hottest, this would be the best place to take readings. Next time, I'm tapping in the collector. See pics in the thread about EGT problems]
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Oh man! That sucks. I know how much you like that Z Paul.
I hope there's enough insurance $$ left over to swap in the 4.5 litre from the poor Infiniti. This has to be a sign from the Z Gods...
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Here are my Wheels:
They are 17 x 7.5 with 1.25" spacers for zero offset. I suppose that makes them about +30 offset.
A mystery wheel to me since they were already on the car from the P.O.
Can someone identify them? I've seen seen a few of them rolling around on Hondas, but never on a Z.
I want some 17 x 8.5" wide Rota RB's in hyper black!! What do you guys think? Ditch these in favor of the RB's?
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I took a measurement from the end of the crank snout to the tip of the key, and it is 1/4". I found that a 1/4" trimmed zip tie works perfect for checking this.
As for the specs, I think you both are right. Nissan OEM dampers have a slip fit, while aftermarket and Nissan competition want more of a press fit since they will see more load. 0.001"-0.015" interference fit is what I've been told is recommended along with some green locktite.
Once installed (successfully) the first thing to go seems to be the elastomer material. It is a good idea to mark the inner and outer halves with an indentation so you'll know if they start moving relative to each other.
Most of this info I'm regurgitating is from trustworthy sources here on Hybridz.
HTH!
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cant i stuff two 2.5 inch pipes and my intake through the passanger side core support area. ive seen it done but idk if it takes away from the stiffness on that side b/c i know i will need to cut some metal away
You must mean driver side core support...but for that you'd need an IC with inlet and outlet on the same side, right? The one you show has them on different sides.
First, figure out the best way to route the IC plumbing then choose the IC conifiguration based on that and the turbo size. Also, you're not looking hard enough because there are cheap ebay IC's with 2.5" inlet / outlet.
There are a million different ways you can route the IC and you can be creative and not have to cut any metal at all if you want by using stock holes or going under the engine or frame. If you do a search you'll see the different ways of how the members have done theirs...
Have you read Corky Bell's how-to turbo book yet? It will answer 99% of your questions and is a must-read if you plan on being serious about upgrading your turbo system.
Hope this helped...
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Unless I'm wrong, they should fit a 280ZX. I'm also running the Tokico setup, and these really thick RCA spacers from Techno toy (not sure that matters). I have 8.5" width, 17" rims that use a spacer for zero offset. They are still 1.25" inside the fenders.
I have 4.25" backspacing now and the RB's would have 4" backspace (9.5"/2 -19mm). How far they stick out from the hub would be 5.5" (9.5"/2 +19mm) which would be 1.25" more than what I have now and that should work perfect.
I'm tempted to go with the 8.5" RB's because I know they'll fit and are available now...but just looking at my ZX, the rims could come out another inch or so...
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I ended up using electrical tape, then a huge pair of bolt cutters to flatten the hose enough so cutting dikes make a clean cut.
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FMIC-TURBO-31x12x3-INTERCOOLER-SUBARU-IMPREZA-WRX-STI_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33742QQihZ015QQitemZ250157520714QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
i was thinking of this intercooler, but both this and the ones listed are all 3 inch inlet and outlet. will it make a noticable difference if i go from 2.5 inch piping to 3 inch inlet amd outlet?
sorry i didnt want to make a new post thread for this question.
It shouldn't matter much as long as the transition isn't too abrupt. I think the ideal is no more than 20 degrees taper.
There are silicone elbow reducers that have a gradual taper that would work great if you plan to use the holes in the radiator support.
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[Edit: 8/19/2007]
More progress on the IC tubes...
Finished welding and grinding the 45.
Here is where I want to place the BOV mounting flange.
Another shot:
where the BOV is going to live:
I had to grind away at the flange because it was already welded from a different install (directly on to the pipe...grrr). Then I used a tube similar to the big one to offset it from the intake tube:
I'm still learning how to weld...notice the big HAZ (head affected zone) on the flange...and yes it did warp a bit, but nothing a vise and rubber mallet can't fix:
Here I tacked the welded flange to the intake tube:
Welded and ground:
All in place:
Whoo hoo!
[Edit]
[Edit 9/9/2007:
Well, this has turned out to be one of the most difficult and challenging projects to date. I really respect the skills a lot of the members have compared to me. Definately a learning experience!!
I'm finally nearing completion, at least I have the IC tubes pretty much finished now. Getting the correct clamps and silicone parts has been a nightmare, but I should have them by the end of the week (dammit, why do I keep saying that?!).
They're still not painted, but you can see how they setup is here:
Yep, I had to resort to JB weld. The small tube was so thin, I'd blow right through...it took me forever to get it so it wouldn't leak. After it's painted, no one will know except you guys on Hybridz. Also, johnc and Olderthanme were right, that Aluminized stuff is NAAAAAAASTY! Make sure you get it off the inside of the pieces as well. (I still have a sore throat from yesterday when I accidentally breathed fumes once)
Here they are ready for paint:
Another one:
My welds weren't pretty, so I ground them down. I hope the wrinkle paint will hide my mistakes.
Primered:
I picked the wrong day to be painting. Even though it is warm, it is really windy too...grr!! I hope the wrinkle paint job turns out looking halfway decent, but it looks like I didn't get good even coats. Some spots are smooth, while others are like volcanoes. I don't know if I'll be able to touch it up or not. I have to wait another hour before they're fully cured.
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Late one night, I'm driving up Pacific highway in my 280ZX and a semi-riced out Honda is coming towards me from the oncoming direction. He sees my car and sticks his head out of the window as as he passes. That made me look in my rearview mirror and I can't believe I see him pull the e-brake at 40 mph and pull an illegal u-turn in the middle of an intersection (this was right after F&F 1 came out). He comes after me and I just ignore him. I'm sure he was driving around at 2 am just looking for someone to street race. Stupid kid was trying to get me in trouble!
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My favorite part of the tamparacing thread...
"Problem with the OS Giken head is that the cast was made of wood, so over time it warped and cant be used anymore. "....
I think what he meant to say was that the wood pattern warped (that was used to make the cavity in the sand for the casting). That does sound pretty funny though...
[Ramble on:]
I've worked with "the German guys" (that's what I call them anyway) who create wood patterns for sand castings over at a high-end pattern shop here in town. After WWII, they said they "went with the winners" and brought their technology over here. The stuff they do is amazing...really a black art and totally fascinating (at least to me). I've also worked with the investment casting industry...where they make the high-tech titanium castings. It is almost as big of a project to design the casting process (the gates, runners, cores, chills...account for shrinkage, flow, metallurgy, etc.) as the design of the casting itself. In fact, it's highly empirical...I think this is part of the reason why the "old timers" are still vital to the business even though we've had computational fluid dynamics mold flow technology for quite some time...
Then you need all the fixtures to finish machine it, inspect it, tweak it, etc. I guess what I'm trying to say is that it would be great if someone could get the head into production again, but I think it would take more than just the pattern unfortunately. Blueprints would be the best...the rest can be reverse-engineered at a high price. hmm...sounds familiar...
[Ramble off]
This is going into a five gallon bucket in the tool shed now for sure!
I agree Ron is the MAN! 
without a time slip or 1/4 mi vid I wouldn't even start to compare myself with 1 fast z (no hard feelings B.G.)
(and thanks jgkurz for the tip on modifying the Weber, and zcarnut for the linkage components)
I thought the coupler (in the air compressor section) was 1/4" NPT, not JIC. Hmm...no wonder I only got about four threads of engagement.
<---5/6" compression tube
) I bought a brass 5/16" compression to 1/4" NPT fitting. Then I had to get a 1/4 NPT coupler to covert it to female, so I could then use a 1/4" NPT to -6AN.
Gratuitous Photos of LED Dash Light Conversion
in Ignition and Electrical
Posted
Man that looks great!! You can really see those numbers now.
Okay, I have a valid question about blue lighting in gages.
As we know, blue lighting isn't good for night vision from the numerous HID lighting posts. I have a Autometer Cobalt EGT gage mounted in a gage pod that has a blue LED. The light is bright as hell at night and right in my face. I'm thinking of trying to convert to a red LED.
KTM, have you witnessed any decreased night vision when staring down at the gages for a brief second, then looking up again to the road at night?
I sure don't want to change from blue the LED if I don't have to.
Thanks (in advance), -Hugh