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hughdogz

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Posts posted by hughdogz

  1. Hey, welcome our newest Admin!!

     

    Congratulations RON!! :-P:mparty::rockon::2thumbs::hail::cheers:

     

    I know I've seen Ron go above and beyond helping out our fellow HBZ'ers (and helping to keep the threads "on the level"). If anyone deserved the distinction, I'm glad it was Ron!

  2. That's wierd. I'm in the same boat. I want the 7.5" wide with +4 offset.

     

    The contact @ Rota said it will be awhile...it's been months since they said that. So, I checked with the salesperson at 18.racing and they said it will be another three months (and that was a couple of weeks ago).

     

    I know it's not good to speculate, but I bet they're still making the first batch and they might be on "the slow boat from China" as I type...

     

    BUT, any vendor should know that you cannot (I think lawfully) charge anyone for an item until the item is shipped.

     

    HTH, -Hugh

  3. Hi Omar,

     

    It sounds like you already bought your IC. You say yours is pretty much like the one in the first link.

     

    The one in the link says it has 3" inlet and outlet, but the piping you point to says it is 2.5". So, you're going to need some kind of transistion to go from 3" to 2.5". If you want to use the stock S30 holes on either side of the radiator, then you might want to get 90 degree silicone elbows that transition 3" to 2.5 (assuming the IC length will let you align to the stock holes with those elbows). You're also going to need another transition to go from the 2.5" to the 2" compressor outlet (assuming you're using the stock T3). Another transition will be needed to go from the 2.5" IC piping to the 2.25" stock throttle body.

     

    The piping kits you point out are aluminum. Are you planning to weld the aluminum or just use all couplers? If you plan on welding, you might want to go with mild steel instead.

     

    If you're going to route between the engine and the radiator, can you squeeze in the 2.5" piping with a stock fan? you may have to go to an electric fan...

     

    If it were me, I'd get the IC piping from Columbia River Mandrel bending...just google it.

     

    Hope this helped...oh yeah, and there is no best.:nono::wink:

     

     

    ...i am hoping to find someone who has done this already and knows exactly whats the best...
  4. A blow-through ignition system is a waste of time IMHO. The electrons just scatter all over the place and you have no control.

     

    Now a draw-through ignition system is much better. Couple that with Ron #9 resistor and BRAAP's NONferrous magnetic NARP’s valve and then you'll have something.:icon15:

  5. I can't stress enough how much of an advantage Formula SAE, or mini-baja will give you over fellow freshly graduated engineers...

    I would love to have devoted more of my time to Mini-Baja. But every year I'd find myself having to sacrifice studying to keep up with MB. After a couple months I'd have to drop MB. But in those few months, I really did learn a lot. Some stuff you'd learn before the profs explained it in class! :D With FSAE you'd be lucky to drive the car since there are so many students working on it (at least where I went to school).

     

    ...Nearly every day I open at least one of my old textbooks.
    78280z, if you're still reading this don't sell back your old textbooks to help finance a keg (or whatever)...you might need them later. Not quite every day, but I still need to use mine on a monthly basis and my co-workers borrow them too.;)
  6. Can anyone confirm if its possible for this to happen?:hs::hs:

     

    Big Phil, someone just called me from Roswell, New Mexico and they asked if I knew how to get a hold of you. They said they want their Intercooler back! :lmao:

     

    Hmm...I would think that either your IAT sensor is bad, the transfer function is bad (the map of voltage vs. temp) or there is a big enough pressure drop through the IC that the air temp is dropping (which doesn't seem likely). I'm just throwing this out...I'm way less experienced than you guys are.:oops:

  7. today with the outside air temp at 75deg F, my coolant temp was around the 185-191deg F mark, the intake air temp never got over 51deg F.

     

    Big Phil, I'm not doubting that is what the datalogger is reading, but if ambient is 75 degrees F and in IAT is 51 F then the intercooler is running at more than 100% efficiency.

     

    I'm wondering if you're runnning an IC sprayer? :hs: Does your methanol injection help that much? Damn!! :D

  8. An engineering degree really just teaches you how to solve problems, whether its a CE, AE, or ME not really a big deal right out of college- lots of crossover.

     

    I've been thinking about this thread and I was about to post the same info. Its really true and I believe this is what Dr. Hunt was saying as well when he said "Its all good". 90% of what you do on the job is learned after college...

     

    In all honesty Katman, I know the real reason why you chose Aeronautical Engineering...so when some cute girl says:

     

    "What are you, a rocket scientist or something?!"

     

    you can say: "Why yes...Yes I am!" :cool: (lol...just kidding...)

  9. It all depends what your interests are. As the saying goes "If you do what you like to do, you won't have to work a day in your life"

     

    You should figure it out quick since sophomore year, the classes really start to diverge between CE and ME, even if they are "equivalent" classes. e.g. Fluid dynamics. CE concentrate more on open channel flow, sluice gates etc. while ME's do more study in jet nozzle designs, supersonic flow etc.

     

    I think ME is a much broader discipline (in general). They cover a little bit of most everything. Computer science programming like for Finite elements, circuits, signal processing, machine design, thermodynamics and heat transfer, IC engines, and more recently MEMS and Mechatronics.

     

    I'm an ME and I wound up in the software industry (go figure). I'm not sure if I could have done this (as easily) if I were a CE. Plus, if you're into cars and engines, ME is the way to go! :-D

     

    Like I said, study what you enjoy and will continue to enjoy for a LONG time.

     

    HTH, -Hugh

  10. Well, I think I finally fixed my boost leak problem. I would get really good boost response (~12-15 psi spike) then it would fall off to 5psi and stay there until you get off the boost again.

     

    The problem was because I had clocked the turbo slightly and the WG actuator rod was "cock-eyed" i.e. it wasn't pulling straight. So I figured that since the actuator is pulling with less force, it's allowing the puck to be blown open. So, I adjusted the bracket to the correct angle. Now I can hold 10psi boost (or whatever I set) "all day long".:rockon:

     

    I had already modded the bracket mounting holes into slots so I can clock it, but that didn't solve the whole angle problem. Also, the actuator rod is threaded now so I can adjust the preload on the wastegate.

     

    While I was at it, I also fixed my e-brake. Damn thing broke off. Those poor spot welds finally decided to give out, so I drilled them out and replaced them with four bolts. Fastening the nuts inside the tranny tunnel wasn't fun since there was a big heat shield for the cat in the way. Vice grip and welding magnets came in handy to hold the bolt while I crawled under the car to fasten the nuts...and I managed to shear 2 / 3 heat shield bolts in the process :icon50: Oh well, at least the e-brake will never come off in my hand again!! ;)

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  11. I DD my 260z.

     

    Yes it leaks water into the cabin in the winter, glass gets all fogged up.

    Yes, I smell like exhaust fumes when I get out of my car (my 130+ lb Akita dog does too but he doesn't mind either!:hs:)

     

    Yes, it is hard to start and drive when cold.

    Yes, I put up a lot of road noise

    Yes, I get crappy MPG (~18-20 around town)

    Yes, the headlights are dim

    Yes, the heater blower / defroster does almost nothing

    Yes, the black interior is HOT as hell in the summer with no A/C

    Yes, I know I will lose (big time) if I get into an accident with another car, especially an SUV

     

     

    But it is so damn simple to work on, inexpensive parts, reliable, with low insurance costs.

    No one will steal it since they have no clue how to start it.

    People driving near me tend to keep their distance since the rattle-can paint job looks like I probably have no insurance.

    My dog can tear the crap out of it, people can key it, back into it, I don't really care too much since it is my DD beater!!:-D

     

    I just love the way you feel connected to the Z when driving it. You feel every bump in the road, the fun of double-clutching into every corner...it can be a challenge to keep it under control driving it in the rain...which is exciting lol!

     

    I could go out and buy a new 350Z outright as a DD, but my dog would tear the crap out of it for one thing...there is just something about the challenge of keeping up a 35 year old car with classic styling, decent power and handling that I just can't get away from.

     

    And Paul and Ron, I'm not that much younger than you guys...but not having a family / wife / GF probably makes a HUGE difference why I keep my trusty old beater around. Would I drive my nice 280ZXT every day? No way too much wear-n-tear.

     

    [Edit: Oh yeah, I forgot to mention on of my main reasons for DD a S30 is that I don't want to drive some "cookie-cutter" car. I really value the uniqueness of the early Z. Even if everyone thinks an S30 has to be a "280Z" :banghead:]

  12. I finally passed!!

     

    It failed the first time under CO% was 1.6% at idle and 2% @ 2500RPM. Both have to stay below 1%.

     

    I lowered the fuel pressure from 38 psi to 36, installed a new set of NGK BPR6ES-11 plugs and it worked! Since I was at only 0.36% CO at idle, they didn't even have me go to the 2500 RPM test.:hs:

     

    The icing on the cake was that Baxter Auto charged me only ~$9.00 ($1.45 per plug). List price is $4 per plug?!

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