hughdogz
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Posts posted by hughdogz
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ummm... you can put camber plates on the back of a z31 or s130 they just won't do anything, the plates he linked to are both for the fronts, one is simeple a solid mount hat the other is the adjustable camber plate and the rest are for other chassis, none are for the rear of an s130, the s130 uses a trailing arm, the shock position has nothing to do with the amount of camber, if you want to adjust the rear camber you either modify the crossmsmber where the trailing arms mount op or put adjusters int he training arms themselves, I havn't seem the arms themselved modified but seems logical, real plates, ain't gonna happen, and aoneone who says they do is an idiot
I stand corrected. What you say makes total sense to me now.
Even though I was born in Japan, I can't read a lick of katakana or whatever those characters are.
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After visiting a customer's manufacturing plant last week, I saw their mandrel bender in action.
I never knew they use a steel sphere inside to keep the tube from collapsing. "ahh...that's how you do it!"
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Easy. Just don't eat any meat or veggies. 100% beer and bread diet.
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Awesome job John. That time is something to be proud of!!
Thanks again for the invite...it was great to be able to see your car up close and talk z's for a few hours with everyone. I thought your 12.0 run was the last of the day, otherwise I wouldn't have left early.
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Good think they remembered to put in some "freeze plug holes" or they'd never be able to get those sand cores out! (I couldn't resist...the Devil made me do it
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Some people pronounce the "S" in Illinois.
It helps to weed out the monosyllabic.
Oh geez...when I lived in Illinois, people would say "Ora-gone". When I moved to ORY-GUN people would say "Illi-noise".
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Well, it has been awhile since I updated my project page...
On a tip from rontyler, I found that I could use my Millermatic 135 MIG welder to weld Aluminum without having to buy a spool gun (that costs more than the welder itself?!). Just buy another "trigger wand" and shorten it, and buy a tank of 100% Argon and of course some aluminum wire. Easy, right?!
Well, I first shaved off all the bosses from the top and sides using a sawzall and non-ferrous grinder bits. Next, I'm planning to drill and tap the bottom to re-locate all the vacuum fittings (thanks BRAAP for the tips!!).
I wish I had some before pics, but ummm...I was out of batteries...yeah that's it.
Let me tell you, it was scary for me at first. There were sparks appearing all over the work piece and the arc was making a really strange howling noise (like a jet engine or something)...after cranking up the juice to max and getting the feed rate and gas flow rate dialed in (above ~ 25 CFM caused an arc blow-out), it wasn't too bad except for all the oxides and slag to clean up. Tons of smoke would billow (sp?) out of my garage!! Luckily I had a huge fan to blow in fresh air.
Well, I didn't give up. I don't think it is quite up to hughdogz standards (joke), but close enough for now. I'm hoping to get it cermachrome coated...maybe it will hide some of the gouges, imperfections, etc.
Filling the tapped bosses that aren't vacuum ports (I'm starting easy):
Here is a close-up of all the oxides and slag I was talking about (first time filling a hole!):
Big holes to fill:
Another:
...and another:
This reamer came in handy to clean-up the holes so I can remove the threads and expose some clean surfaces:
This has to be one of my favorite / handy tools
Finished! (not quite as nice as I would like it to be, but at least I was able to do it myself with my own tools)
Another:
I'd better be a LOT more careful about keeping the grinder under control when I do my head porting.
We'll see how that goes...lol -
PIN number. Same as VIN number, ATM machine, etc.
How about degrees Kelvin or with au jus?
Or an alarm "goes off" when it's really going ON. Well, that might be like when cells multiply or divide, they're doing the same thing.
What gets me is trying to explain slang terms to a non-native english speaker. I've had to explain "pretty ugly". They're thinking well...is it pretty or is it ugly? and how can it be both? lol.
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Good info John!
My '82 has to pass emissions again before December too. I left the stock manifold, etc. on so (hopfully) I should have no problem passing. Then I'll have up to two years to work out any kinks in the mods I'm planning to do.
You probably knew this already, but if we don't pass, we can get only one 30-day trip permit per year. At least we don't have to let them drive our cars on the dyno anymore!
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What's the medal for hot dog eating?
LOL! that's a good one LineC.
Actually, it was 3rd place for best fart after the hot dog eating contest.
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Check out the reason for selling at the very bottom...
http://www.scan.co.uk/Products/ProductInfo.asp?WebProductID=92518
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I'd suggest 7.5 width front though. My 8 inch wide was cutting it close up front. But in the back of the 280ZX even 9.5 will clear fine on +4 wheels.
Bleach, exactly what I was thinking 7.5 up front, 8.5 in back. But then you can't rotate the tires front to back. The 7.5's are currently +45 offset, so they'd have almost no dish (not to mention a big spacer). Plus 8.5's up front might have too heavy of a steering feel for me. That's why I'm waiting for +4 7.5's.
Sorry for the T.J. dtaylor. I'm really looking forward to the pics with some rubber on them thare RB's
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Me at the 2007 MSA show (I'm the one on the right with the goofy looking smile
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My mistake. It is the 17x7.5" wide that come only in +45 for now. The 17x8.5" wide are +4. If they were +45's they would have almost no dish! (and yours have quite a bit, I likey)
I'd love to get a set of those 17x8.5" for my 280ZX (no coilovers) but I'm afraid they'll stick out too far and the tire will interfere with the inside of the fender in the front. Kim at Rota is checking on getting 17x7.5 +4 RB's made.
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Those look great!!
Are those the +45 offset?
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28" H20 = 1.0106 psi
1 atmosphere = ~407.2" H20 = 14.7 psi = 29.92" Hg (Mercury)
So I assume they're talking about gage pressure (pressure above / below atmospheric) versus absolute pressure.
Some trivia: If you had a vacuum on the top of a column of water in a tube, you could only "suck" the water high enough to get a column ~407" high. This is why we put well pumps at the bottom of the well versus the top. Even if you had an infinitely strong pump, you can't raise (suck) the water above 34 feet since you cannot get a pressure below a complete vacuum.
-Hugh
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TBS, now you're begging the question...what CFD software are you going to use?
It sounds pretty heavy duty if you can do dynamic CFD with convective heat transfer, etc. It would be really cool if it could do mass transfer / state change for the nucleate boiling that a lot of the more advanced members seem to be talk about on a regular basis.
Keep it up!! I can't wait to see the next progress update.
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Right-click, save link as...seems to work now.
http://home.comcast.net/~hughhenderson/engine_R11.zip (~ 14 Mb)
http://home.comcast.net/~hughhenderson/engine_R9.zip (~ 28 Mb)
All the valvetrain was created in R11 using the cam generator, shaft generator, etc. so I couldn't save them in R9 format.
For those of you who don't have a copy of Inventor, you can download the free viewer at: http://usa.autodesk.com/adsk/servlet/item?id=7333846&siteID=123112
-Hugh
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Oh Man, how cool is that?!
turbobluestreak, I'm curious...how far and wide can the range go on that scanner?
I've always wondered how those things worked...
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...It looks like you went pretty detailed with measurements on the head. Did you measure the pistons and con rods??
Well, I just eyeballed it from those books about how to rebuild / modify your Datsun OHC.
I used whatever book measurements I could. I didn't truly reverse-engineer any of the models except for the Weber TB, but I think the engine dimensions are reasonable...I could probably get sued for infringement on the TB, lol.BRAAP noticed that I didn't even get the intake / exhaust patterned right. That shouldn't be too hard to fix, but then you have to re-build all the Fillets. I'll try and get the original files posted for you tomorrow.
That would be cool! I'd like to check it out. Inventor doesn't do the forward compatibilty and most likely never will. We can save them out as some neutral file format like IGES, but then they're just dumb solids after that...so yeah, it kind of blows.I can share my EDIS wheel and mounting model soon, just need to verfiy a couple more details. I am aware of no backwards compatiblity now, kinda blows.
Cheers, Clint
I should try out a stress analysis simulation on the strut tower braces (as others mentioned). I was curious about the same thing...whether or not bending moments in the welded design is better than a two-force member design (no bending) because of the Heim/spherical joints. I'm sure you'd have to figure out how to apply different loading scenarios to get meaningful results...
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Is there a place where we can host the parts for download, it would be great if we could share these models. I have Inventor 10, can your models be saved as that version?? I have also modeled a ZX damper and Ford EDIS wheel, vr sensor, and A/C bracket. I am intrested in dowloading you model if that is possible.
Are you talking about my models or Cygnusx1's? I can probably post them up to my comcast account if you're interested.
Once you migrate an Inventor model past IV_10 (for instance), you can't open it in 10 anymore. Luckily, I think these were made in R10 or earlier.
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Feels like I just watched the Moon landing or something!
I'm in awe 1 fast z!!
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Looking Good!! If the latest DP doesn't help get you to the 400 HP mark, I don't know what DP would
Is that stainless material that is ceramachrome coated? Also, did you weld it all up yourself or did Hutchkins help out?
Regardlesss, I really like the design and hope to build one of those soon myself.
HorsepowerFreaks is having a dyno day tomorrow (Saturday) 3 pulls for $50. If you are going there, let me know because I definately want to check out your ride close up in person!!
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I'm afraid theres no suspension stuff on there. Very curious to see the prices on these parts
Go to his website, click on "who is Kameari", click on their catalog. He can get any part from them (so far as I know...)
Coilovers: http://kameariengineworks.co.jp/catalogue-P41.pdf
Camber plates: http://kameariengineworks.co.jp/catalogue-P39.pdf
azcarbum is checking on the price for the coilovers, but from the cataloge they are ~45k yen.
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We'll see how that goes...lol
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I used whatever book measurements I could. I didn't truly reverse-engineer any of the models except for the Weber TB, but I think the engine dimensions are reasonable...I could probably get sued for infringement on the TB, lol.
New Rota's RB-R 17x8.5
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
Well, Kim @ Rota seems to think they will (notice that the 18racing site has a direct link to Rota's availability page). Who knows how long it will take though. I'll keep us posted as soon as I hear back. I tend to bug them once a month.