hughdogz
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Posts posted by hughdogz
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Hey thanks for the compliments guys...I wasn't sure if I sound okay or not.
Oh to be a moderator and hack in a link to that sweaty guy vid....
Ron, Paul...don't you dare do that!
I'm using two amps. One is a Crate G20 that I put a Celestion speaker into and the other is a Park (Marshall) practice amp. They're not that great really. I run them through an effects pedal so I can get stereo sound. The effects pedal is a Digitech RP300. The RP300 also has the crappy drum machine you hear in the background. The guitar is a Samick stratocaster copy made in Korea. I bought it back in Jr. College about 16 years ago (wow, it's really been that long?!) I paid only $265 for it. I used my college scholarship money I was supposed to spend on books. I figured I could just take good notes for the semester.What kind of amp/guitar combo are you using?dude that freaking rocks!! I'm just a hack, that sounds great. And yes the singing and playing thing is hard for me....and anyone listening.Big-phil, I don't think you're a hack at all...in fact, I still think you're a LOT better than I am. I mean you can improvise and make that guitar SCREAM!! All I can do is imitate other performers.
Peace! -Hugh
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I know I'm not as good as BigPhil, but hey at least I'm trying!
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Hi Jeff, I bought a Stage II Schneider Turbo cam from MSA last year. It is the one with .460" lift (non-hydraulic). I heard that you were involved in the development of it.
I'm curious if you think it is a good cam for a stock turbo or maybe a turbo with ~25% more flow capability than stock. Also with mild unshrouding of the valves and cleaning up the exhaust ports. Too big? Too small? Worse than stock? (j/k)
Thanks, -Hugh
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nbesheer, Brian totally is right but I don't think that graph is indicative of a typical metal. If I remember correctly, after the yield point the curve goes horizontal (a definition of yielding is you get more strain without adding much, if not any more stress). It doesn't make sense to me that you could lower the stress, yet get more strain (elongation).
It's also interesting that once you're past the yield point and unload, it takes a different path back, but with the same slope. At this this point it is plastically deformed and the strain doesn't start at zero anymore and it is now considered "work hardened". You can add more stress then the first time before it starts to plastically deform again.
Getting back on topic, in reality I'd be surprised if a connecting rod stretches like the chart shows. The common mode of failure is fracture at the small end. The chart is correct only it happens at a localized area where a crack forms, grows and finally runs and you get fatigue failure. To help avoid fatigue failure, you should only cyclically load up to half the ultimate tensile strength IIRC. Another method is to shot peen the rods so that it adds a pre-compressive stress to overcome before you even get to a tensile load. Polishing is important too to help eliminate any stress risers (cracks or sharp inside corners) from forming.
BRAAP has a great example that shows failure due to buckling resulting from detonation...looks more like a pretzel than a connecting rod.
Somehow the hyper-eutectic pistons came out still looking brand new! -
Right on Man! I'm glad you made it here safely!! And congrats on finishing school.
Just wanted to give you a head's up that we have a NW-Z meeting next Wednesday (northwestz.org). Hope to see ya there.
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Hi Cygnus, have you tried one of those ultrasonic things yet? Just a thought...
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I may be wrong, but here is how I'm looking at it...if we're talking about breaking transmissions and rear differentials it comes down to shock loading, not a constant force or acceleration.
Say that you have a 500 HP engine and you drop the clutch on a 1000 pound car with no tire (or clutch) spin. I think it would be harder on the drivetrain (a bigger shock) to drop 500 HP on a 10,000 pound car under the same conditions.
I think this is basically what Brian is saying...in general lighter is better...less mass to accelerate is less force on the components.
Here is another analogy: Who would win a 400m dash...a fat guy or a skinny guy? lol...if it were a tie, I would think it would be much harder on the fat guy's bones (components) than the skinny guy's bones. Maybe it's not a perfect analogy, but this thread could use some more lightening up!
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Do the tps' interchange between a turbo and non turbo? We have a non-turbo in our local junkyard.
I know that the '82T uses only two wires for the TPS. I would think that an n/a 3-wire TPS should work.
When the throttle is closed, there is resistance between two of the terminals, when the throttle is cracked open, there is infinite resistance (open circuit). Easy to check with a multi-meter...I don't recall offhand what the closed resistance should be, but I can check it out for you once I get home if you'd like.
HTH
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I totally know that feeling Bo! At least we aren't modifying an airplane.
That's great you're up and running again!!
I'm not exactly sure how he did it, but "Mr. Wolf3D" has hooked up visible and audible warnings in case the oil pressue or engine temp goes beyond a certain limit. I think you can also have the engine automatically shut down if you lose oil pressue or the temperature skyrockets...it may be as simple as tying in an auxillary input to the oil pressure sender.
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Maybe it does have 422 RWHP but the eight non-funtional "lee press on" vents and plastic intake for a roots blower? To each his own I guess.
I thought those centrifugal superchargers could push ~9-10 psi max. 14 psi makes me wonder...
Also, those guys were beating him up too much IMHO...almost makes me feel anti-anti rice.
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How embarrassing!
Sounds like he doesn't even know how to BS!
Nissan should repossess the car from this guy lol!
[Edit: first link fixed - thanks Cruez!]
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I have one like this:
I found that if you help support the weight while it's cutting so it gets an even lower feedrate, it won't wander much at all. I've cut an 8 degree pie sliver with this method.
I know my fab skills are nowhere near Austin's or Johns, but give it a whirl it may work for you.
If you're cutting aluminum, it should go through like butter...HTH
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Since I'm waiting more wiring supplies, I thought I'd go back to polishing the intake again. You can see that the filler aluminum is a lot shinier than the original alloy...I know, I know, I'm polishing the wrong side and this isn't going t make my Z go any faster.
It doesn't look bad from two feet away, but the close-ups and reflections makes it look kinda crappy. Oh well...maybe one more time with the 1200 wet sanding and I can get the remaining scratches to come out!
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Paul, that flipping license plate idea is very James Bond of you.
I've seen just the opposite on a hot rod...last summer there was a kit car convention in California. One stopped at a gas station and I saw the licence plates flip under the bumpers when the guy turned the key off.
Do you think it would impress Ron if I could run one of those flippers off a Wolf3d? Ha! That would be cool. When over 100 MPH, flip those plates...
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Damn! That buildup is looking insane Monzter!!
I'm kind of curious why you went with the V-clamps instead of silicone hump hose...there's not going to be a strain / fatigue problem when the engine is torquing? Nonetheless, AWESOME looking job!!
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Time to run over some paint-guys now!! (j/k)
I think it looks great
even with the fascia paint a shade darker.You know it's required to run a front plate in Oregon, but I see plenty of cars without one and the cops don't seem to care. I'd probably reduce my Cd if I removed mine too!
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Before I noticed your user name all I could think was STAN CRACK ??
I get it now...it looks cool Man!
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The Z32's probably got a lot better anti-corrosion treatment from the factory than the previous generations did.
I remember living in the midwest in the 80's and the Ziebart places would be everywhere. Now I don't see one...I think when the major OEM's started dipping the chasis at the factory it pretty much put an end to major rust problem.
I found out that grease and dirt are great rust inhibitors for the early Z's.
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I started designing the power supply for the EMS. It is 8x6x2.5 inches (210x150x63 mm) so I hope it's not too big for the 280ZX passenger side kick panel. I'll have to take some rough measurements before I start cutting and bending tomorrow.
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Kind of late to be asking this, but have you tried calling Holley / Walboro and asked them if they'd replace it (for free)?
If it's brand new and they can tell you didn't run 24V through it and it's not full of gunk I don't see why they wouldn't replace it.
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Maybe the fuel damper went bad? (although it doesn't seem likely)
I wonder what would happen if you ran a line from the fuel pump discharge into the tank filler for an easy test (just to see if it is flowing anything at all)?
Anyway, I found an MSD pump in my garage (never used) that I'm willing to part with. PM me if you're interested. I will say the Bosch unit had the right size fittings and same diameter as the stock turbo FP, which made the MSD less desireable for my 280ZXT.
Alongside the MSD was my receipt for the Bosch unit (0-580-464-021) that I paid $192 for over four years ago (list was $299?!)
. I swear I should throw away my receipts!! Sometimes Evilbay is way cheaper than the local parts place. -
Fire Extinguisher...
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Damn! I'm glad you're all right...that sounds scary as hell. I thought you were going to say "then we sprayed water and it spread even more"
I'm not trying to be an azz here, but I guess I know your vote for the what the #1 tool in your tool box should be...good grief...I'm lucky this hasn't happened to me yet.
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I'm using this Bosch unit and it was a super-easy install:
(It's good enough for a 3.6L turbo)
This MSD one flows plenty and is supposed to be an easy install too:
Bo, any idea what could have happened to the Walboro? I thought those were pretty much bullet-proof?!
[Edit: Duh, you already mentioned these]
Somehow the hyper-eutectic pistons came out still looking brand new! 
even with the fascia paint a shade darker.
Radiator Opening Size: How big/small?
in Miscellaneous Tech
Posted
I seem to remember that somewhere in that Aero forum it stated that a 2 inch by 8 inch opening is all you really need to supply air to the rad / intercooler / oil cooler.