Jump to content
HybridZ

hughdogz

Donating Members
  • Posts

    757
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Posts posted by hughdogz

  1. There have been several topics on that particular air dam, seems like we have a new one every month or so :) Personally I prefer the Arita but that one is a close second ;)

     

    That pic shows how good a S130 can look, better than any S30 in my.............

     

    Hmm...I know of someone that can make Arita-speed airdams here in the States...with some ZG flares, ZXR wing and some deep, wide rims...I think the S130's can look pretty hot too! :hail:

  2. Yeah, I would say hunt one down.

     

    Now that I think about it, if you don't have a metal cover, every time the rotor passes a spark to the six contacts in distributor cap, there is an arc. That arc will give off electro-magnetic waves. This could interfere with the electronics for the optical sensor if there is not something (the cover) to shield it. *Disclaimer* I could be totally wrong though. :)

     

    You could always try it without one, and see if it works or not.

  3. I made a little progress this weekend. I've mostly spent days cleaning grease off my oil pan, engine mounts, engine bay, etc. after pulling the motor out.

     

    The paint on the inside of the oil pan started flaking off like crazy when it dried. Not sure if it was caused by the solvents I used...is this common? Anyway, I'll have to repaint it, since it would most likely clog the oil pickup screen.

     

    Here is my block painted. I had to clean it with engine degreaser, then B-12 Chemtool and finally rubbing alcohol.

     

    I think it turned out pretty nice. First I sprayed it with two coats Thermo-Tec "cool-it" 1200-1800 degreee paint. It looks like chrome, I almost wanted to keep it this way! :mrgreen: Then I sprayed it with 1.5 cans of Dupli-Color paint to match the body paint (2000 Acura Electron Blue Pearl).

     

    block_painted_1.jpg

     

    block_painted_2.jpg

     

    block_painted_3.jpg

     

    block_painted_5.jpg

     

    It may not look like much progress, but Man did it take a lot of time and loss of braincells. :redface:

     

    Now back to fighting the "rust wars" / bubbling paint in the engine bay! :flamedevi

  4. Hi Travb2007, I probably sounded like an a$$hole in my first post. I apologize for that (especially since you are a new member).

     

    For your first question: You have some options

     

    1) Go with the internal wastegate (then you'll also need a wastegate actuator, that isn't shown in your pic)

     

    2) Go with a blockoff plate that only has a 3" vband flange. This will block off the wastegate hole, and you'll have to custom mount an external wastegate to your exhaust manifold.

     

    3) Go with a "blockoff plate" that has holes for both the exhaust and wastegate ports. You'll still need an external wastegate, but you can run it as a "divorced" wastegate setup like jgkurz designed and built.

     

    Second question:

     

    I see that turbo has flanges "built in" and you cannot simply clamp a coupler to it (I think this is what you had in mind). For the "stock" install, there had to be the "other half" flanges as part of the IC tubing. You are going to either have to find those pieces, and cut off the flange with a bit of tubing to clamp on to or else make some custom flanges that have a short piece of tubing to clamp onto. Or, you can weld flanges directly to your IC tubing, but you'll lose some "play" that you have using silicone couplers.

     

    Hope this helped...

  5. My question is will this make my turbo have a internal waste gate?

    Umm...yeah, if you buy that internal wastegate housing from your ebay link, and install it on your turbo, you'll have an internally wastegated turbo. :confused:

     

     

    also another question I have is where do I find the Intake ports for this turbo all I have is flanges PIC-0013.jpg

    The intake port is right there on the left hand side of the compressor (the inducer)

     

    Also under the Dizzy do I need the plastic protector that goes between the rotor and the CAS?

     

    Maybe I don't remember right, but isn't it a metal plate?

  6. hughdogz my hero!!!! hey thanks man i appreciate it, send me a paypal addy and the moolah is yours!

     

    Hey l28et280z,

     

    I wasn't in it for the money (I didn't realize you had said anything about that in your initial post). Just trying to help out my brethren.

     

    Are you looking for a connector cable too? I already cut off the stock round end connector and wired up a Delphi weatherpack connector. Plus I need it for a 260z turbo swap that I will do someday. :icon56:

  7. Hugh did you go this year?

     

    Yasin

     

    I didn't. This is the second show I've missed since 2003 :redface:

     

    The 280ZX turnout didn't look as big as last year (from your pics). I didn't get moving like I should have this winter. It has been another long haul with all the mods this year, and my ZX is still on jackstands!!

     

    Plus, with the uncertainty of the economy, and the stock market taking a dump, I'd rather spend the (scarce) ~$1000 on new performance parts.

     

    Yasin, you forgot to post pics of the narrow-bodies too. :-P

     

    LGGP030.jpg

     

    Next year...NEXT YEAR...hehe.

  8. :shock:

    Hugh, I still consider myself a "youngin" but not 16-20! :mrgreen: I'm 36 going on 30...hehe.

     

    Yeah, I was kidding and giving you a hard time for posting to this thread: Youngins: How'd you end up with a Z?

     

    I think Roger is nutz for building a high-comp motor with 0.550" lift and eyebrowed pistons for street use. He'll have to bring a barrel of Sunoco 260 race gas on the cruises, lol.

     

    I think he still lives off Jackson school road. I wonder what happened with the place he bought out at Hagg lake...his shop was giant, but I hear the one at Hagg lake is the size of a hanger.

×
×
  • Create New...