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hughdogz

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Posts posted by hughdogz

  1. i think hes talking about the "Turbonator" or some variant of it, theres a few different rip offs of one another some go across the diameter of the intake tube and some dont.

     

    http://www.tornadofuel-saver.com/?gclid=CM3N4obDvJkCFR0SagodOkJT7w

    http://www.turbonator.com/Contact.htm

    http://www.vorteccyclone.com/index.html

     

    the turbonator link is on contacts because on their home page theres a really annoying guy yelling at you the instant the page loads and i cant find a way to stop it before i wanna smash my speakers

     

    Ahh...Yes those look a lot different than what I tried to make. I was going by one of these:

    09c8_1.JPGhttp://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=p3907.m38.l1313&_nkw=swirl+throttle+body&_sacat=See-All-Categories

  2. Thanks for the input guys!

     

    That is really nice software. Just out of curiosity, if it's not too hard to model, try throwing one of those crappy turbine blade intake thingys that supposedly swirl the air on the way in. See what your computer spits out.

     

    Another idea is to make it like a header...bring the runners together in a cluster at the intake. I know the "equal length" rule will be tough to keep though.

     

    Hi Cygnus, on my next go-around I'm going to try to make the inlet come in parallel to the runners (like an RB25). Also, I'd like to revisit Helix's guide / diverter idea, extending them almost to the runner entrances. I could also try closing up the plenum some more, so the flow is forced to have a straight shot to runner six...

     

    Here is the turbine blade model (not sure if they are right). I threw in five "swirl-ators". I just went by some crappy pics of swirl effect throttle bodies off Ebay. I'm not sure they were much help, what do you think?

     

    swirl-ators.png

     

    swirl-ators_2.png

     

    swirl-ators_3.png

     

    velocity_streamlines_12_rev5_swirl.png

     

     

    Let me know if you wanna try your hand at an rb25det intake, I have a spare stocker laying on the floor I can measure for you.

     

    Sure! That shouldn't be too difficult to do. Pics and general measurements would work great. :icon14:

  3. I live less than a mile from you! (30th and Barbur)

     

    I can't remember his name right now, but there is a guy that Kurzals and I use that has a shop right off Cameron (near Beaverton-Hillsdale highway) that does super-good work too. Mostly V-8 stuff though, but he has a flow bench, all that stuff...

     

    If you want head work done, I'd recommend Paul Ruschman in Sandy, OR. Ron Tyler is really knowledgeable in engine management stuff too.

     

    If you're doing simple stuff, like pressing out this or that, drilling and tapping, then any Napa can do it.

     

    Come to our next Northwestz meeting!

     

    -hughdogz

  4. Did you not read the directions that came with the pully? It clearly states that its going to be a tight fit and that you might have to do some honing to get it to fit.

     

    Those instructions for for a SBC kind of engine though...not like a Nissan one with a keyway?

     

    [Edit: I was wrong about there not being keyways on the SBC snouts...but the instructions really don't say anything about their Nissan dampers]

  5. ... Boring it out should be cake, just get a good measurement off of your crank snout and machine it 1 or 2 thou over.

     

    Shouldn't that be under? You still want it to be a tight fit. I remember having the same issues and Tony D suggested about three to eight tenths of a thousandth interference: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=123520&highlight=damper (see post 28)

     

    I'm planning on re-trying my damper install (hopefully by this weekend) now that I have my hood, IC and radiator out of the way. Good luck and let us know if you had to get it honed or not.

  6. ^^ Must be Civil Engineering, since Computer Science is CS, but maybe there is a CE.

     

    Keep in mind that ~80% of the ME's are not technical, we do a lot of project management, or sales / marketing.

     

    For me, I started off getting a maintenance Engineer internship at the Willy Wonka Candy factory (believe it or not). I did testing of the steam traps, dust collection, I even got to crawl into a sewer on a daily basis. :puke: I got to see how they make Nerds, gobstoppers, etc. I got to learn a lot about plant management and packaging too. I also learned a lot by hanging out in the machine shop. The best part was driving the electric fork-trucks around, lol. In case you didn't know, there aren't such things as Oompa-Loopas. They're mostly Mexicans that make the stuff. :lmao:

     

    After I graduated in from UIUC in the midwest, I wanted to return to Portland, even though there were no jobs. I worked for my Dad doing a thermo / heat and mass transfer of a solar distillation device.

     

    Next, I got a job as a Design Engineer, doing contract work in CAD. I designed a lot of inspection fixtures for Precision Castparts, whose main customers were for IGT engines like Rolls-Royce, Pratt and Whitney, GE, etc. I would model 2D prints of the turbines into 3D models, then design fixtures with Go / No go gages, X-ray inspection carts, throat gages, etc. Then I'd have to make the detail prints (sometimes well over 100 detail drawings per assembly with inspection sheets for the machine shop CMM guys to make) I'd also design chills and chill-chills for airframe castings, etc. I even got to work on some air intake grill for the F22 or something like that. Also did a lot of CAD for patten shops. I also did a contract with ESCO to reverse engineer in to CAD a giant link of a track for an earth mover...the thing was 2 feet tall, three foot wide and like 5 ft long!!

     

    I got laid off from the Design Engineer job (because the owner was a crook), and worked in a plastic injection molding factory where I learned a lot about core & cavity dies, and the whole process.

     

    Then I had an opportunity to work at a software company that makes CAD packages as a Quality Engineer. I've worked with modeling, Simulation (dynamic stuff like velocities, accelerations, forces, friction etc. like ADAMS). Now I'm currently doing stress analysis simulation, and getting into CFD, heat / mass transfer, multi-physics and mechanical event simulation.

     

    It's pretty cool, but I agree with the others. Being stuck in an office does have it's disadvantages (except for the fact I get to bring my dog in to work with me everyday and wear shorts, t-shirt and flip-flops if I want). :)

     

    Everything is so global now, often times you have to wake up early to work with the folks in Europe, and sometimes stay late working with Asia.

     

    Hope this helps...

  7. seems like you would be best off to angle the throttle body so the back wall (i guess you'd call it that) is straight, to try and 'aim' the airflow along the back wall of teh plenum, and reduce the low pressure zone, and cavitation just after teh throttle body.

     

    Good point. I appreciate the input Nizm0Zed. :icon14: That is what I'm going to try to do with the next version.

     

    I turns out that I didn't have the runner spacing correct, so I had to fix that. :lol:

     

    Mesh_rev3.png

     

     

    Also, I didn't have the right element selected for the boundary layer, for the first runs it takes a lot longer to run with the right one.

     

    Ugh...I need a Cray!! The FEA computations are taking too long. :redface:

     

    ==========

    [Edit: A little better, but now it looks like I'm generating swirl after the flow hits the "back corner" of the intake]

     

    velocity_streamlines_9_rev3.png

  8. Hey guys, I'm still working on a design for a custom intake using those group buy flanges.

     

    I'm still learning how to use CFD simulation, so it is still a learning experience for me.

     

    I want to minimize having to do custom bends, but it looks like I'll have to do something to avoid vorticies, even at such a small velocity.

     

    For my first attempt, I just guessed on the boundary conditions, 200 mm/s fixed velocity at the outlets, and the inlet is "free".

     

    After reading MONZTER's thread, he was getting ~4000 mm/s and I want half the HP (flow) as him, so Im re-runing it again at 2000 mm/s.

     

    Here is the CAD model, to do a CFD I have to model the inside (which is kind of wierd but that's the way it works).

     

    CAD_1.png

     

     

    CAD_2.png

     

     

    CAD_3.png

     

     

    CAD_5.png

     

    The simulation has 30 time steps, to ramp up the flow and give the solver an easy time at converging. Here is zero velocity at time step 0:

     

    time_0.png

     

    Velocity contours at full speed:

     

    velocity_contours.png

     

    Here you can see the big vortices / swirl that I need to get rid of (the big one and the one near the first runner):

     

    velocity_streamlines_2.png

     

    velocity_streamlines_3.png

     

    velocity_streamlines_5.png

     

     

     

    I re-ran the model at 2000 mm/s and it is about the same. 2 & 3 are the only ones getting a good shot of the flow.:

     

    velocity_streamlines_6.png

     

    velocity_streamlines_7.png

     

    velocity_streamlines_8.png]

  9. Hi Blue72,

     

    Can you send me your Alias wire files and / or IGES? I'd prefer the Alias wire files to maintain associativity if you update the unibody model.

     

    I've always wanted to try doing a stress analysis on the engine compartment. There is a long standing debate whether a triangulated strut tower brace is superior to a two-point one. The firewall is not all that stiff, so we want to do an FEA on it to calculate the deflection involved...

     

    Here are some snapshots of a model I made many years ago (I didn't use anything but photos from "Rebuild your Nissan / Datsun OHC engine" book). I think BRAAP already mentioned that I have some intake / exhausts flipped around that I haven't fixed yet. :lol:

     

    Engine_1.png

     

    Engine_2.png

     

    Engine_3.png

     

    Engine_5.png

     

     

     

    Thanks, -Hugh

    • Use a piece of ~3/8" hose maybe 2 => 2.5' long

     

    • Use a cheapo "air duster" from harbor freight (the one with the long wand, not the stubby ones with holes on the side)

     

    • Drill a hole in the cap slightly smaller than the OD of the hose. Pull the hose though the cap about the same depth of the container. This will keep the hose end submerged in the oil

     

    • Drill a hole at the top of the container of gear oil that is the size of the wand tip (the tip tapers, so it will seal pressing it on the container)
    • Screw the cap on the container, and place the other end of the hose in the diff filler hole (of course)
    • Pressurize the container, and it will force the oil up through the hose into the diff.

    I think it took less than a minute at ~20 psi. It sure beats squeezing a gear oil bottle with a hose on the end. :wink:

  10. Awesome! I may have misunderstood him when he said he did quite a few...I remember him going into details about the modded oil pan.

     

    Thanks for the contact Hugh.

    Just got off the phone with Johnny. New shop, came from WA, (explains why we haven’t heard of him before). :wink: Really nice guy, enjoyed talking with him. :2thumbs:

    ....

     

    I guess we know the answer now!

    :lmao:
  11. Hi BRAAP, it might be interesting to bounce some ideas off Johnny at Johnny Z Motorsport in Salem.

     

    He was at the last Northwestz meeting, and he said he's done quite a few of the LSx swaps (LS1, LS6, LT1 etc) in a Z32.

     

    His shop is very near to Ztherapy, and he's open 7 days a week (503)400-0790.

     

    Hope this helped...

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