LineC

Just do a crazy triple u-joint with a brace off your steering shaft for clearance. That should clear it up.

Hey Phil you have a Felpro gasket or a 1mm or 2mm HKS? Also when you say stock cam do you mean stock turbo cam or NA cam? I have heard the NA is better but I have no experience in it yet so its not very good info.

Wow 240hoke looks like you have wireless injectors Have to say the black I never even imagined but it gives your engine a very hard look. I like it better then polished. BTW what wiring is going through the sleeve on top of the thermostat housing?

Hey Phil if you could put me on the list also for the MS file if your sharing. I'm building almost the exact same setup.

First off I bet its your fault since I can see from this post that you don't even know what forum to be in for specific topics. (your in fuel delivery) 2nd how are we suppose to know?

You are ethier very aware to whats going on around you or you didn't have your fuzz buster on Like the comment about the cops. You can really see that front end come up also! I am jealous I want mine done now. Damn city codes taking to long with my garage!!!!

Not the best look I have seen but I like it. Now my neighbors cars just went up in value also! Looks better then a panel bonded hood scoop that shows its rivets over 80 degrees.

LineC is a minimum thrust rating you have to follow when you trim the Pratt and Whitney F100-PW-100 engine. Since that is my job for the last 7 years I used it. Plus Mike which is my first name is to common. (sorry mikelly)

I know you already solved your problem but the plugs won't fire just dangling out of the engine they need to be grounded to something like the strut tower or yourself .

Is that a peice of sheetmetal with a Z logo welded in the drivers floorboard to hide the rust? (I have a crap monitor)

I will keep this thread simple and easy to follow. Most of this information comes from searching and the research from other members. The list isn't complete and there are some missing part numbers. I am just attempting to compile the information in an easy to read post. Please keep replies in the thread. If there are mistakes or additions that need to be made please post them and we can clean it up. This list only contains the most common cheaply found injectors that seem to be popular. These are injectors that can be found in stock cars at the junkyard or searching through ebay. Don't limit yourself to just the ones listed since there are several other injectors out there that can be made to work. I tried to keep the list simple and with the ones with the higher flow rates. *Warning* Dropping in different flow rate fuel injectors without the proper knowledge or fuel management system will cause your car to run worse and possible engine damage. As a general rule: 10-16 ohms = high impedance (Saturated) 3 ohms or less = low impedance (Peak and Hold) Low-impedance injectors are generally preferred for performance applications because they respond more quickly. The resistance between the two electrical pins can be measured with an ohm meter to find an injectors impedence. For more information on injector theory and impedence this link has good accurate information. Stealth316 O-ring fuel injectors will need a different fuel rail in able for these injectors to be used. I suggest buying one from Pallnet if you decide to go that route. Here is his link. Pallnet This is a source for injectors that has proven reliable to members. I also have bought from him. Motor Man Fuel Injection Supply If your connectors are in need of replacement a popular upgrade is the GM style connector that can be found on numerous cars in the junkyard. Thanks Atlanticz for the link! AtlanticZ If you want stock crap connectors here is the cheapest I found. (.87c ea) Del City Here is a good page for more information with flow ratings of other injectors. http://carsoft.co.il/page3/Electroni... a%20Table.htm http://www.witchhunter.com/injectordata1.htm http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/injectors/injectors.pdf If your dropping in bigger injectors you will probaly need a new adjustable FPR and fuel pump. Walbro pumps are noisy here is a good, reliable, cheap pump from MSD ($94) Summit MSD-2225 If your going to take the time to replace the fuel pump here is some more cheap insurance. Go get a $4 clear fuel filter (FRAM G3) and install it in your feed line before the pump. Z's are very bad for rusty gas tanks and this beats wondering what your filter looks like. Easy to do but here is a write up if you need instructions. THANKS AtlanticZ The good size fuel line is a -6AN feed and -4 return for a 350hp system, "but" if your going wild this might not apply to you. More on AN sizes. AN Chart If you are not sure what size injectors you need here is a helpfull chart but it's only to get you close. HP to CC/LBS Chart Also remember you don't want to run higher then a 80% injector duty cycle. More info on duty cycle: If your interested in converting cc to lbs or other fuel calculators here is a great site. Calculators *Please remember there is conflicting data for CC ratings out there. Best bet is to get a set flow matched and tested prior to installation* Toyota Supra 1987-1992 - This is an o-ring injector 11mm. Injector electrical clips need modification or swap. Use stock seals at manifold and not the Supra seals. Year/ M odel/CC/ Impedence/Part#/Color Turbo / 440 / Low / Black Non Turbo / 315 / High / Green (stay away from yellow ones they are 295cc) Ford CFI - Covers on the feed end of the injector have to be removed. You can put EFI hose on the end and connect with stock clamps to use as a barb style. Can be found in Mustang 5.0 engines, mid 80's Crown Victoria, Lincolns, etc… Year/ M odel/CC/ Impedence/Part#/Color 1984-86 3.8L / 338 / Low / 280-150-402 / E3VE-A1A / Green 1980-83 5.0L / 437 / Low / 280-150-400 / EOSE-A1A / Blue 1984-85 5.0L HO / 503 / Low / 280-150-403 / E4ZE-CA / Grey More info @ http://www.rsphysse.anu.edu.au/~amh110/Technical_pages/bosch_403_fuel_injector.htm Merkur XR4TI / Ford SVO – Can be found in Merkur, Cougar, Thunderbird, Mustang SVO 1985-88 turbo models. Can attach a hose with clamp for stock fuel rail. Year/ M odel/CC/ Impedence/Part#/Color 2.3L Turbo / 370 / Low / E5ZE-9F593-AB / Brown (Stay away from green they are 315cc) Mazda RX-7 - This is an o-ring injector 11mm. Late style injectors have similiar pintle ends to that of the 280Z that will fit properly. Early ones need the pintle caps removed or 17/64 bore in the intake since it is larger. Year/ M odel/CC/ Impedence/Part#/Color 84-85 / 680 / Low / 195500-0900 / Orange 86-87 Turbo / 550 / Low / 195500-1370 / Tan 88 Turbo / 550 / High / 195500-1370 / Purple 88 / 460 / High / 195500-1350 / Purple 86-87 / 460 / Low / 195500-1350 / Red 89-91 / 460 / High / 195500-2010 / Red Mitsubishi Eclipse - This is an o-ring injector 11mm Year/ M odel/CC/ Impedence/Part#/Color 1989-99 Turbo M/T / 450 / Low / Blue (95+ Black top) 1989-99 Turbo A/T / 390 / Low / Tan Non Turbo / 240 / Low / Orange pink Non Tubo / 210 / Low / Light tan Mercedes - Barb style injector. D-Jet plug. Plugs can be re-wired to work on L-Jet Year/ M odel/CC/ Impedence/Part#/Color Mercedes 1970's 4.5L / 380 / Low / 280-150-036 / Blue Volvo 1970's B30E / 380 / Low / 280-150-024 Mercedes/Cadillac 6.9L / 480 / Low / 280-150-041 (rare) Nissan 280ZX Year/ M odel/CC/ Impedence/Part#/Color Turbo / 265 / Brown Non Turbo / 188 / Notes: Early 280Z white/tan body injector. 0-280-150-104 Later 280Z green body injector 280ZX Turbo brown body injector. Here is a little comparison of some injectors. This is a L-Jet plug on left. D-jet on right. Here is a pic of the popular Ford CFI injector with the plastic removed on the inlet. Remember they are in the throttle body on the car only 2 per car on CFI. Here is a pic of the CFI injector converted for use of o-rings. RC engineering can do this for you.

I appreciate the response and the fowardness about the situation. I felt out of place for asking that question but I also feel better now knowing the circumstances and the rumors getting put to bed. I have to agree that this is the most structured professional board I have been a member on, thank you for that!

It's all a blur one day everything was great then next day after PINKS there are banned users. Damn what happened. I always thought of ON3GO as a active and contributing member on the site, but I only knew him online. I am sure something happened as zeritech-z said that definately warrants a ban.

One less accessory driven by the drive belt so it frees up horsepower. Sometimes more room for intercooler piping and fans.

You should Megasquirt the impact driver. Throw a little fuel injector in it then safty wire a beenie weenie can of gas to the side of it.

Maybe I have just what I need. I am still leaning on putting this thing on ebay and offsetting my costs for a hy or hx. That is exactly what the previous owner said about the turbo when I bought it. Actually I bought it on a turbo motor that has been in storage since 1990. He said back in the day that day it was very common to have this set up. Actually a very good buy since I got two turbo motors and 3 t5 w/ driveshaft and two 3.90 r200's from the guy. I think though I am going to sell this turbo. I would just like to have a proven turbo on the motor and not be disappointed after the fact.

Thanks for the info 510 and scottie. I think I am going to sell this off and try to find one that better suits my needs. Wonder if I would bet a better price if I sold it with a GN flange or the t3 flange?

I really would like to see how this turbo acts but only want to to the IC plumbing once. The prior owner said the housing was machined but I never asked real detailed questions about what work was done. I will finish the rest of my engine and keep an eye out for a holset in the meantime.

I ran out to the garage and took some pics. Couldn't seem to find any of my tools to take some measurements. Here are some pics of what I got. The links are other pics so I don't flood this thread. Lemme know if you want to see the exhaust section without the cartridge in it. http://members.cox.net/kernal100/gn4.jpg http://members.cox.net/kernal100/gn3.jpg http://members.cox.net/kernal100/gn2.jpg http://members.cox.net/kernal100/gn1.jpg

I wish I had a hype man

Bump,,, or should I move this to the L6 room?

Well I keep getting sniped on all the Holset turbo's I am trying to get for my L28. Question is--- I have a Buick Grand national turbo that has a modified exhaust housing to fit on a T3 flange. I have no idea if this is an ideal setup for the L28 or not. I have been wanting to do the HY35 turbo on my engine build but prices are getting crazy and if my Grand National turbo will give me the same results I will reuse it. Whoever machined the housing to fit this turbo definately had some money into it, but was it worth it? This is my build plan, and the only thing left to buy is the turbo or reuse this Grand National one I have sitting around. Shooting for around 350HP max on my build. F54 stock bore P90 not shaved stock dished pistons stock cam 1mm HKS gasket 440 CC injectors MSI w/ignition FMIC 60mm TB So anyone have experience with this turbo, what will I be looking at for lag and when does it start spooling. Should I just sell it and wait on a better turbo for my needs.

I would be willing to part with one v80z. Kind of a mess right now I gotta go to Vegas for a month for military orders and when I get back I am starting to tear down my old garage and go up with the new one. Get a hold of me after Nov 23 and you can come take a look at them. Gonna try to get ahold of Synlubes. I at least want the one I am going to use checked out. I think one has broken dog ears and the other two are fine.

To bad you didn't get it on tape. You probaly could of made enough dough to buy a 240z,,,... and had enough left over to put a bike rack on it. J/K get well soon...

.030 over? Any idea were to get rings?