redzedturbo

Okay me and xnke built a turbo ( t04e 50 trim turbonetics/ stock .63 a/r turbine bored to fit .76 t31 wheel with a 3/8'' spacer welded to the manifold with studs) anyway the intake was removed as with all the wiring and when i hooked it all back up my temp gauge in the dash no longer works! What would cause this i have checked the wiring at the thermostat housing what gives? everything in the car works but this......

I have that same compressor housing. It looks like a nissan replacement for the l28et which is what mine is and was removed from. its a stock 280zx 60 trim t3 from the look of it and g pop shop has been the only place i have bought rebuild kits from they are fantastic! Call them to get a better deal that ordering online.

Mine is mounted on charge piping before the intercooler. Welded on and the bov is a cheap turbo xs copy from frozenboost.com after i shimmed it with supplied washers it was worked very well for over a year and sounds great not ricer. I did not feel the need to vent cooled air rather than hot so i put mine before the cooler.

i thought of using my strut bar but mine is welded in and is with in 15 degs. I will probably make one also for track events. here is a pick of my super duper bar lol.

Well i am swapping my new t04e 50 trim turbonetics compressor and center housing in this weekend using the stock turbine. going to xnke's house to use welder and fab up a 2.5'' down pipe to get rid of the heavy stock dp but also to install a flex joint after it. have to straighten my manifold because its warped. (fun!!!) with my manifold sealed up and not leaking on #6 and soundings like a coal train under the hood i should be able to finish my tune and tune for new compressor. any ways i will weigh dp and the new one to see how much i lose stay tuned. if i get this done in time i will try to install my proportioning valve also i know some of you guys been waiting on me to post the how to for the zx.

I also run the hpk 255 tokico kit with stock sways and poly bushings my zx handles like a gokart on 225-50-15 humho rubber. i think you will like them and i would recommend to any zx owner good luck man.

please post a pic of those wheels on your car! I was thinking of getting a set in 16 by 8 but have not ever seen them on a zx please! killer brakes by the way.

I need a z32 trans does not have to be from a turbo. the later the year the better but have no preference. also do not want to pay more for shipping than the trans im buying. have cash and paypal.

if its the metal one and not the all plastic one how much you need for it?

Well i got gas last night and was talking to some one about my car at the pump and drove off without my cap! went back when i noticed it missing like a hour later and some A$$ has pocketed my cap. I want a stock metal cap not a plastic repo. please help doesn't have to have key.

Hey all my 83 turbo don't smoke or use oil unless i set for more than 5 min's at idle. then the first rev i give it makes a big puff of oil smoke from the tail. Rev it again and ta-da! no smoke. I think my turbo might be leaking oil slightly or im blowing oil from the block. I have good compression and a oil catch can which is half full of milky oil every 3 months i was thinking my oil separator screen in the block might be stopped up or something. what do you guys think anyone have this problem? mine did not used to smoke at all just started few months ago.

My 83 280zx turbo 5-speed weighed 2900lbs even on a cat certified scale yesterday. I was shocked till i got to thinking about what the thing weighed from the factory (2960) with all power options. please correct me if im wrong about this. I weighed in with a half tank of fuel and me (200lbs) in the car and my tool box at 78lbs because i weighed it and me when i got home. so my car with a half tank weighs 2622. My new goal in life is to get under 2500 lbs with a half tank. From the seats back my car is stripped and i have a heavy super strut tower bar. All sound deadening/carpet/speakers and radio are removed. I have a/c removed and run 2.5'' mild steel exhaust with no cat of muffler (BECAUSE RACE CAR) Also a 3.5 in thick intercooler up front with 2.1/4'' piping stock air box is long gone and all engine wiring gone because i run megasquirt. any ideas how i can shed some more pounds OTHER THAN BUMPERS because im thinking of making aluminum ones to replace the steel.

My coil went bad and i started looking at the z31 coil since everyone says its super hot. Anyways i bought one and found a 2 pin pig tail for it. The forums here are very informational but for the life of me i could not find any thread that told which terminal was positive and negative for proper coil hookup. So i tested to ohm's with a meter and got 0.00 on both terminals? So i had no way of knowing right. COME TO FIND OUT it will run both ways you hook it up and my tach works both ways? it doesn't seem to make any difference at all with the solid state coil. I chose to make my mount out of steel to mount it to the valve cover. ( because of electrical noise getting to megasquirt because coil wire was too close to air intake temp sensor in my intercooler piping) Enjoy every one goodnight.

Mike i have been thinking about mags but there so expensive when i could go to C.O.P for same amount of money. i will end up going that route i think and it will be much cleaner. The only reason i still have a distributor is i payed 300 for a new one before my ms1 install so i wanted to get my money out of it you know but cop has a lot less noise and its all on the other side of engine bay.

Relocation for the win! I have fixed my resetting issue with ms1. When i moved my intake air temp sensor (gm) from the intake manifold to the charge piping i ran the wiring over top where my coil wire was. SO Hugh amounts of rfi and emi (electrical noise interference) was getting to my MS harness via the ait sensor. I rerouted my coil wire under the charge piping and zip tied it to the distributor shaft away from any wires not shielded from said noise. And boom been driving all day no resets at all in log viewer. Now i can get to the brakes weather permitting. Sorry for the hold up guys the prop valve is going in soon i promise.

Hey all sorry about the wait. My mega squirt has been acting very retarded so the brakes got pushed too a warmer date. My AIT sensor kept blowing out ( in the the manifold) so it got moved to the charge pipe before the tb. This in turn extended the two wires about one foot for the sensor. After doing this i drove the car and started getting resets on ms1. This happening under boost was VERY VIOLENT throwing me into the steering wheel. After multiple resets and it wiping my tune and leaving me on the interstate i noticed my battery voltage was low. I charged my optima up 13.4 volts and installed a new alternator. The problem is still there resetting after car warms all the way up. It was missing at idle some after all this but ran fine as usual once warm. I went and got a new z31 turbo coil to replace mine since it was going bad. Still resetting im going crazy i have been daily abusing my 280zx for 2 years with no problems? anyone have electrical noise issues and fixes please tell me before i burn it down and build a new project with the insurance money JOKING GUYS!

Well im going to fix the issue tomorrow. Removing prop valve and installing a summit racing adjustable one for the rear brakes only. I will take pictures and post how to do the install. stay tuned. its about time the zx got some love in here. There is not as much of a wealth of information as far as modifications go on the s130 compared to the s30.

My car done something similar and it end up being air intake temp sensor was bad over fueling it bad. Im running megasquirt though. i would check your head temp sensor if using stock ecu or as said above fuel reg. Also check for weak spark and correct plug gap. You may be blowing out spark under boost if gaped to tight or using the wrong heat range of plug. Possibly afm? good luck in any case man.

Yeah that looks like it was very hot at one time. wish i could help with the 2.2 but i run 3.0 but i may still have my stock tune saved for l28et with stock injectors as well as 450cc dsm injectors. I will check and if so i will help you out. I drove on it for like 9 months triggering off the distributor like you and get 25-28 mpg. Also being very conservative and timing and fuel. Maybe (xnke) will chime in on the wiring of your board, mine was the 3rd or 4th one he built. good luck man.

Hello all, I know i should get my turbo manifold decked before replacing yet another blown gasket. Its always number 6 exhaust so my manifold has to be warped right? My gaskets last maybe a few months 2-3 and then my lc-1 goes crazy lean. I cant afford the down time till tax time so has anyone seen these? This looks promising and fel-pro gaskets suck. http://www.fcrcmach.com/new-remflex-exhaust-gaskets-nissan-l24-l22428197584280.html I was thinking of making some dead soft copper or aluminum gaskets and found these looking for material. Anyway should i get one or suck it up and get the manifold decked and run the fel-pro gaskets?

If you have lubed all the towers before you put the cam in it should turn with very minimal effort. If you can put a finger on a cam lobe and turn it 360 deg it should be fine. Main thing is all the towers are straight and inline. You will know if one is out of line it will feel like the cam is dragging when turned. Good luck.

That is beautiful jake! And the flange a++

Stock turbo master. I am going to take the prop valve off this weekend and try to center the ball inside. Also i looked at my friends 240z and he is running the same master as me, the lines are run the same. So i think its gotta be the prop valve. THANK YOU NISSAN FOR DISCONTINUING OUR PARTS!

Okay so when i bought this car it had no brakes. (83 turbo 280zx) After new pads rotors calipers and master and booster. Viola now i have brakes. The issue at hand is the car does the majority of its braking from the rear. A lady pulled out in front of me yesterday and when she finally noticed her stupidity she just froze and stopped in the middle of the road this forced me to get on the brakes in a rather hastily manner. The car locked the rear wheels and swings the tail out! At this point i had to pull a formula D maneuver and clutch kick down shift to slide around her. This whole situation could have been avoided if my brake bias was correct. Now you know the story if some one knows how to reset a prop valve or clean it to make it work properly please chime in.......

I have seen multiple people say at a 90 deg angle from exhaust flow it not going to be much better than the stock gate. I thought of using one till i did lots of research and found them to be poorly designed. Im going with a 38mm pipe to exit on the bottom of the stock turbo manifold in the middle of cyl 3-4 so the gate will be under the turbo and merge into the downpipe. goodluck.