redzedturbo

Keep at it!! Good work. We are all looking forward to seeing this thing going.

I have been fighting this fight for a long time. I too am 6' 1" tall and the leg room is kinda lacking in comparison to the earlier z chassis (s30) I had to find the smallest seat i could fit my big butt in and its all the way back against the step up in the seat floor where the rear sub frame bolts in. Im running the summit poly bucket with a nice cover right now but i ordered the scat (procar) fixed seat in black cloth and loved the fit in the car but not on my ribs. Im a bit wide framed but if your slender and have a smaller than 36 waist the scat seats are great for $140 and they fit the zx pan very well. good luck!!!

omg man usps wants 215 bucks to ship it and it will be a min of two weeks!!! Ups wants a little over 400 to get there in a week. Holy crap. How bad do you need this bell WOW!!!

my brother works at fedex and took the package to work with him today to get the shipping quote. I will let you know soon.

{Xnke posting from RedZedTurbo's house} They will be polished, sure. As long as there is no pitting or broken teeth, they'll be OK. The only way to know for certain is to hear it in a car and actually drive it, unless you see broken, pitted, or seriously chipped (more than 10% of the load face) teeth. That does not cover the condition of the synchronizers though...You can inspect the engagement teeth and see if they're really worn but even really worn engagement teeth can be smooth and quiet, it just depends. I know for a fact that 1987 200SX CA20e boxes with that shifter on them are the same length as a stock 240Z box...they are NOT 50mm longer like the later units. Somewhere around here I has a data pile of all the changes and the approximate years, as well as the gear ratios and applications of the FS5W71X gearboxes. In my Z, I had to move the mount back 1", and rotate the transmission mount 180*, to get them to bolt up, but when I was using the 200SX box I did not have to shorten the driveshaft-just ground the spotwelds off to remove the dust collar.

{Xnke at RedZed's House} The stock diff and the OBX have no measurable difference in the length or style of axle support-it's just the OBX allows the passenger side axle to wobble around when not loaded. This is odd, and worries us, because the driver's axle is solidly retained with no play, all the time. That and the passenger axle makes a shitload of noise when cruising under light throttle, but as soon as you apply any power or increase the loading any, the noise goes away. We were wondering if this was common for the OBX diffs...because on my '72 it's a LOT of wobble, and the axle doesn't show any wear at all, but I can move it off-axis by nearly 1/8" with one finger in any direction. It does not slide in or out of the diff at all by hand, so my thoughts are that the spider gear is not solidly retained anywhere inside the diff except by the pilot cut on it on one end and the six spiral gears surrounding it. Same with RedZedTurbo's car, both times on the passenger side. I'm running 300ZX CV's, he's running 280ZXT CV's.

I do somewhere. you need to buy a new bearing. i will look for the arm ohh you do know this is a datsun t5 bell from a 280zx turbo right not a chevy or ford right? The bell Will bolt ot a ford t5 but not a chevy and it has the l28 pattern.

The hot start problem we all face has lots less to do with incoming air temp and more to do with heat soak in the fuel rail and injectors or carbs which ever you may have. The fuel gets hot enough it looses its liquid state and turns to a gaseous state. If you have hot start problems your best time spent is header wrap or some kind of thermal layer between the header and intake or wrapping the fuel rail with some GOOD thermal reflecting Martial. I made an abs panel from a semi mud flap at work to block air from entering my air dam and going under the radiator because it was open before and now its hard to keep the car at 180 deg if moving at all. This was a good cooling mod on the cheap. Will take a pic tomorrow and post it.

Hey anyone running a obx lsd in a r200 using the 280zx turbo or 300zx tripod axles? If so is your passenger side axle slightly floppy? Were the axle goes into the diff the last 10-12mm that enters last has a step up on it before the actual tripod housing has play there and the axle can be grabbed and moved up and down some. Its not just me znke has the same problem! Does the small step portion of the axle seat into the diff or does it float and the only thing holding the axle straight is the splines and wire clip? Anyone?

xnke and myself have the sloppy passenger side axle using the 300zx obx helical diff. Is it just us?

Im thinking the drive shaft is fine. The axle on the passenger side I THINK is the noise because it was making racket and changed pitch when i hit a dip in the road and made that shock compress. I looked at it today and if you grab the axle at the diff i can move it around some but the driver side is nice and tight no movement. The axles both feel clipped into the diff but the one has some play in and out as well as radial movement?

after all my playing today my trans is at 0 and the diff is at 0 the drive shaft was i think 1.5 down but if i looked at the driveshaft from behind the diff the trans looked to the left of the diff so it is slanted horizontally some but i did not measure it. i can possibly slot the crossmember to get the trans inline with the diff and see if it helps. Thanks for the video.

will do may be a few days i very busy at work this week.

Wow you guys are overwhelming me with all your responses. I moved the tranny as far up in the tunnel as possible and was rewarded with 1/2 deg down at the tail shaft. Loosened all the rear member bolts shimmed here made things thinner there and the diff is 1/2 deg up. The only thing i noticed is the trans is slightly pointed at the passenger rear wheel and not pointed straight at the diff so i may have to slot the trans mount and shift it over to alighn it with the diff. After all this there was no more thumping shaft trying to get in to ride in the passenger seat. Now just slight vibe at wot. Its tolerable for now.

I got one 75 bucks and ship its yours.

Does any one know the stock 280zx pinion angle? i never measered mine and even if i did all my bushings were shot so yeah.

Hey guys i have a drive shaft vibe i can not get to go away. But to be fair im running an odd setup that few if any are running. I have a rs5r30a z32 trans in my turbo zx. Im using a hoke adapter and a 3.6" diameter aluminum driveshaft with 1310 to 1350 u joints. the slip yoke is a pathfinder spicer unit and the diff flange is from jagsthatrun. Anyways i have been running this all year with very limited but there vibration. After installing some poly bushings in the sub frame and rear control arms i used a angle gauge to check my drive shaft angle today at work. (over a pit with car on ground) the trans is pointed down 2.5 deg and the diff 5 deg up. The driveshaft at the center is 2 deg's up to the trans. so i thought hey ill drop the trans to get the same 5 deg's down as the diff is up right? after i did this the whole way home i had floor knocking vibrations when i took off and under any throttle squeezing at all. I dont claim to be the driveshaft master so if there are any here help. Im moving the trans back up tomorrow the see if it helps.

Im running one in my zx with a l28et. good luck fitting it into a s30 tunnel i had to give mine the hammer treatment and the zx tunnel is alot wider. love the trans though. good luck.

Well i got the z31 bushings cut down and installed which was the easy part the control arm bushings were a lot more work. I used the torch a lot and a big hammer and various chisels and punches. The vibration after the bushing install has been annoying but i think i can get used to it. I am going to check my drive shaft angle tomorrow using the angle gauge i got at ace hardware today for $10. The rear of the car is much stiffer and much more stable. I think my wheel hop will be all but cured when we go back to the strip on the 29th. Ohh a side note i had to install the rear assembly diff mount first then shift the whole thing backwards like an inch to get on the sub frame studs. This centered my rear wheels in the wheel arches finally after years of thinking to myself that the rear wheels sit so far forward in the arch. I highly recommend this to any zx owner the difference is night and day.

Xnke and myself have had very good luck with the OBX we got off ebay. As long as you check them and change the bolts and set your backlash correctly they work very well. The one tire fire is long gone in my zx. Im guessing im around 300 whp and drive very hard (burnouts drifting and doughnuts) It has shown no sign of wanting to slip one tire ever. Been daily driving for a year now using royal purple 75/90.

Hey from the grave ha. Glad to hear it worked out for you.

I need to get some higher spring rate coils for the rear im running the tokico kit. The rears are i think 200 lbs and on a launch i can bottom the strut out. Thinking of going to s13 coilovers at tax time.

well i fixed some problems last night. My datalogs showed my boost at 17 when i went wot but at 4500 was dropping to like 10 till rev limit. So i removed my ace hardware boost controller to find i could blow through it meaning the ball and seat were not sealing right. Anyway new ebay hallman copy replacement boost controller and now faster boost onset and holds + or - 15 kpa what i set it at. Setting now it 220 kpa so around 17.5 and it runs so much better. I forgot how fast this thing was!! This week i am removing the rear sub frame at work to install cut down z31 poly bushing and poly control arm bushings in hopes of eliminating the hop! Will try to take pics and post.

Hey guys it been a while huh. Well me and xnke went to the drag strip last Saturday and the first pass out i was joking and told him i was going to cut the tree down on him. My reaction time was 0.422 and i hit it hard out of the hole. The car shook so bad my sun visors came down and it threw my keys out of the ignition into my lap. I found out about the keys when i got to the staging lanes and went to shut the car off and the keys were gone! They were found under my crotch in the seat. Any ways some back story for you guys that dont know my car. L28et big cam Turbonetics To4e 50 with stage 3 turbine wheel .63 turbine housing. Im also running megasquirt ms1 v3 at 16 psi that night. The last time we went i had the same setup but still had the stock diff (open) and it launched hard with little to no hop just some tire slip. I have been running this obx diff for over a year no issues until we hit the track. I checked my axles and driveshaft today at work everything good and tight. After all the shaking thought it was worth looking because it was the most violent tire shake i have ever experienced in any car. Do any of you guys have this problem? Im going to switch all my rear bushings to poly next week to see if it helps when we go back on the 29th. All i could manage was a 13.4 at 104 and last time with open diff same boost ran 13.1 at 108 but without wheel hop giving me shaken baby syndrome. Thoughts? Yes i know i posted this in the zx forum also. But some of you s30 owners avoid the zx section like its contagious. Thanks.

I love it have been thinking of doing this for years. Good job.