X64v
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Posts posted by X64v
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The accord as it sits, the altima if you drop it an inch or two
Unlimited supply of free harbor freight tools, or one free top of the line?
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bad
SNL or Mad TV?
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heh, annoying or not, they're definitely a good incentive to donate...
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It's a shame, they tend to distroy some pretty nice/rare cars. I wish they'd use pos cars.
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Alright, I ran a few more tests. I couldn't just flip the cap to see if it was off center, because it only fits on one way, but I did do something else. What I did was remove the dizzy base and bolt it back up the other way (rotated 180 degrees). I then rotated all the plug wires on the cap 180 degrees, so that they'd be in the correct position relative to the rotor, but in different spots on the cap. Started the engine, and guess what. 1 and 5 were still the problem, even though they were in different spots on the cap and relative to the dizzy. I swapped in different plug wires and moved plug wires around, and no matter what wires were where, the problems were always cylinders 1 and 5.
I need the car for tomorrow, so I'm going to swap the other dizzy back in and go back to fuel only for a day. If that fixes it, then that will reafirm that the plugs/plug wires aren't the problem.
Edit: Swapped dizzies, went back to fuel only, still had the same problem. Moved the spark plugs around....problem followed the spark plugs. Put in new ones and that was it, problem's gone. Freakin rediculous...
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Alright, getting ready to go turbo, so I switched from running fuel only (running off coil negative, using the '73 dizzy with a pertronix ignitor) to controlling spark with an 82 zx n/a vr dizzy. Now I've got a real strange spark problem. Spark to cylinders 2, 3, 4, and 6 is totally steady and fine. But spark to 1 and 5 is doing some pretty crazy things. Cylinder 1 doesn't get spark when the engine is accelerating. When the rpm's are steady (idle, or being held at any rpm), it's alright, but when I give it some gas, the timing light totally goes out, no flashes at all. Spark to cylinder 5 is just dead inconsistant. It'll be fine for a few seconds, then nothing for a few seconds, then a spark here and there, etc.
I have run spark control through megasquirt before without a problem using the '73 dizzy with the ignitor, I just didn't like to use it 'cause I would get tach spikes. I'm not getting any spikes or abnormal tach readings with the vr dizzy, so as far as I can tell, megasquirt is doing it's job without a problem. Regardless, megasquirt doesn't even know which cylinder is which, so it couldn't be picking out 1 and 5 for any reason.
The rotor and cap are new, but it does the exact same thing with the old rotor and cap. Spark plugs and spark plug wires are fine, and are the same ones I was using the same day with the other distributor.
I took some video (crappy quality, it's just my digital camera) of the problems. The frame rate is not fast enough to catch every flash from the timing light, but you can see when it's flashing and when it's not.
Timing light reading cylinder 1:
Timing light reading cylinder 5:
From my understanding of this, I don't see how it could not be a mechanical problem with the distributor somehow, though I don't know what that would be.
Any ideas?
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http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=632038&postcount=23
That map should give you a real good base. I've run (read: daily driven) on that map pretty much unaltered since august just fine. Your altitude shouldn't matter, the map sensor will pick that up and compinsate.
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EDIT: woops, didn't realize the thread was 6 months old. From your sig it looks like you're already running tripples so it doesn't matter.
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What about that myth with the sawdust in the tranny(or was it the diff?), I can't remember what the myth was...something about making it quite?
Man, that's an old one... In The Grapes of Wrath, the son (Jeb? can't quite remember his name) checks for sawdust in place of gear oil in the diffs of all the used cars they check out before they leave for California.
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hah dane cook rocks.
fits with the z, too. I can't tell you how many girls haven't been able to find the door handle.
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Just a few questions/observations...
How to “read†the data being provided… A little explanation of the fields…
C LF front lift neg # = lift, pos# = down force on front end
C LR rear lift neg # = lift, pos # = down force on rear end
Isn't this backwards? If you look at #9-#10 (change to the whale tail), the rear lift numbers went from positive (lift) to negative (downforce), not negative to positive, as that says it would.
Also, looking at total front lift during #5: the difference between the hood popped test and the retest is 120lbs of lift! Correct me if I'm mistaken, but doesn't that mean that an easy way to reduce front lift for those of us with stock/near stock bodied s30's is to just pop the hood to the second latch when we near those speeds? Or did it miss the second latch and pop a few feet up or something?
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Lookin good mario. I think that light tan color looks good.
I would assume those were taken from the top of one of the UA parking buildings? Like 6 more weeks and we can get shots of both of ours up there (don't let the sig pic fool you, the paint has long since faded and gotten messed up).
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Three shalt be the number thou shalt count, and the number of the
counting shalt be three. Four shalt thou not count, nor either
count thou two, excepting that thou then proceed to three. Five is
right out.
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So he can get it in his name and get insurance for it.
Ah, gotcha.
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Why would you want to register a car that isn't even running?
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That looks freakin sweet. Great idea blending the pannels into the doors; lots of the wide bodies I've seen have tried too hard to end before the door, and it doesn't look natural enough.
Looks great!
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I've got an injection plumbing question. All the injection set ups I've seen use a fuel rail where the fuel is constantly flowing past the injectors. If I use my single line to each injector with a return at the central block layout will this work? I'm in effect dead ending the fuel at the injector head.
Yes. You can either put a two port FPR (in and out, just like the stock one) on that return line from the dist. block, or you can use a three port FPR (in, out, and return), and plumb the 'out' to the dist. block with no return from the block.
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Heh yep. The trx 2.5 with one of those monster cooling heads.
My own 'first hybrid'. A 2.5 tmaxx with the xtm big block kit and an ofna/picco .26....10 lbs and 2.5 horses.... That thing hauled some serious tail. That's like having 500 horses in a 2000lb car.
Sold that a few years ago though. I need to break out my OS .18 powered revo for a day...haven't played with it in a year.
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x64v......love the car and the wheels, what are those?
I'm not 100% positive, but I believe that they're some old American Racing wheels. Steel, 14x7, wrapped with 215-60's. The centers are supposed to be gloss gold but these are so old they've faded.
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I left it out of the first post, but it just makes me laugh too hard not to share...
Where the major visual change between before and after took place...
Incase you're too dumbfounded or laughing too hard to realize what that is, it is the spray booth I painted the car in. Seriously. The frames are from those pop up shades like what you would take to a large picknick or outing, and the plastic is, well, what our new mattresses came in a few months before.
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Crappy before pics are pictures of pictures (film pictures, no scanner).
The two white streaks are just glare
After (well, during, I'm no where close to done. Only difference now that would be visible in these pictures is sport seats instead of the stockers)
Stupid water spots...
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The one in the courtesy nissan link is not the stock one. It has 8 holes in 1 degree increments.
That one and AZC's one are the only ones I know of.
I'm bringin sexy back.
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
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^^^^ perfect solution.
The attention to detail on the fab work is absolutely sick. My mouth's watering at some of the stuff you've got on there.