X64v
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Posts posted by X64v
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GOT IT!!!!! I coulda swarn I had all the settings in megasquirt right, but sometime when I was going through the fuel settings, LED 18 got changed to warm up, when it needed to be IRQ trigger.
Thanks for the help though guys.
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I also tested it by holding the vr dizzy in my hand and physically turning the rotor with my finger (therefore eliminating both the alternator and plug wires). But yes, it is like one continuous reset until the rotor stops turning.
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Update
I installed the VR circut on the pcb and hooked that up to an '82 zx na vr dizzy. Now, when I spin the dizzy (either cranking the engine or by hand) the megasquirt completely shuts off (all gauges go reddish-pink in megatune) until I stop spinning it. All connections are good and the pots are adjusted fully counterclockwise. Any ideas?
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That reminds me of some of the stuff my friends say when I'm working on their cars..
Her: My car is leaking green liquid stuff.
Me: Where is it coming out of?
Her: The fender.
or
Me: I can't get that bolt out.
Her: Well why don't you just use a bolt remover?
Me: .....
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Nope, still no go. Any other suggestions?
EDIT: I wired in the circut for just triggering off the coil negative, but that did not work either. Should I attempt to replace R12, R13, C11, and U3 with new ones, or is there anything else it could possibly be?
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While there's a Hall sensor in the Pertronix, you won't actually get to access it unless you cut the casing open. It's better to set this up to behave like you are using points; see this link for the details:
http://www.msextra.com/manuals/MS_Extra_Ignition_Hardware_Manual.htm#points
Ah, I see. I noticed that instead of high being +5v or +12v, I'm getting maybe a volt or two out of it. Is that what the condenser does in the points set up? (therefore needing to set it up as if for points?)
And I'm switching the jumpers on my board right now to try the points set up.
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It is very possible that you could have the trigger input wrong and still run fuel only. You can tweak enough variables in megasquirt to make it run. In other words - it really doesn't matter that you've had it running on fuel - spark is another HUGE set of headaches that require their own troubleshooting. Be patient and we'll get you up and running in no time.
Actually it's the other way around. I've had it running ignition for two weeks, with su's doing fuel. It was when I added the fuel duties that it quit reading the signal.
Trigger angle is set at 80*
The red wire on the ignitor has +12v power
The black wire on the ignitor is going into pin 24 (white ign wire on diyautotune's harness)
Pin 36 is connected to the coil negative terminal
Spark output is inverted
I cannot get any rpm reading in megatune (and therefore no spark signal out of megasquirt.
(And I'm runing NGK plug wires, which are 6 months old and work fine)
I'm going to reload the software onto the megasquirt board and redo all the settings to make sure none of that got miffed up.
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I've been running MSnS-E ignition only on my l24 for two weeks now, everything worked great. This weekend I got the fuel system set up, and hooked everything up to run fuel and ignition. I started it up for the first time, and it idled okay, but I needed to adjust some stuff, so I shut it off, and when I started it back up, I was getting a real rough idle and the tach was bouncing a lot. After about 10 seconds of that, the engine just quit, and I could not get any rpm reading in Megatune while cranking. I'm running a pertronix ignitor (low to high) in the stock 240 dizzy (locked down of course), on a V3 pcb. I've installed all the coil driver and hall/optical sensor circuitry, and jumpered it to run a low to high hall circuit. As I said, it ran great for two weeks doing ignition only, but just a minute or two after I got it running fuel, it quit reading the dizzy's input. It's wired up correctly, and the connections and wiring have been quadruple checked, as well as the ignitor checked (it's working fine). I didn't change any of the spark settings in megatune when I set up the fuel stuff, so the last thing I can think of is a problem with the circuit board somewhere (though visually it looks as it did before, nothing burnt or melted or anything). Does anybody have any suggestions as to what circuits to check, or anything else it could possibly be?
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In the movie Speed, as the bus is coming around the corner, getting off the freeway, the black car it hits and launches off the tow truck is a 280zx
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The AFM is required with the stock fuel injection. The cars without them are running Megasquirt, SDS, or similar.
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one eye since I have experienced not having a arm for 3 months lol
simpsons or southpark.....
southpark southpark southpark
chappelle or mencia?
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The way the system calculates everything (it's called a speed density system), an afm is not needed. It basically runs off of the temperature and pressure of the air in the manifold, and RPM.
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It's been a while since I rebuilt mine, but I remember them being different lengths. And the newest those carbs can be is '72. The 73 240's came with flat tops.
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I'm working on a friend's 240, who hasn't touched it for years, and can't remember anything about it. It's got an l24 block but an n47 head. Is there any way (short of pulling the head and looking at the chamber shape) to tell if it's of the maxima variety or the z/zx type? I've been looking at all the pics I can find of each. It does not have a cht port. All the mn47 heads I've seen have them; has anyone seen an mn47 head without a cht port? Or are there any other subtle differences between the two?
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I've done it one time before, on my l24. Missed a shift on a dirt road and hit 8k real quick, and that's when it popped out.
Is it the same plug every time, or does it vary? If it's the same one, perhaps the hole is a little distorted or something.
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I get a pretty solid 16.5mpg for straight city driving in my 240. Pretty much bone stock '73 l24, minus all emissions, and running well tuned 3 screw su's. Highway mpg was around 22 with the 4 speed, haven't had a chance to record it with the zx 5 speed yet.
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The C5 is a boat of a car. It takes up way more space than you think, until you see one inside the lines of a parking space...
Agreed 100%. My best friend had an '03 conv't for a few months and let me drive it one time. I was amazed at how big it felt (thought probably exasparated by the fact that my 240 is my daily driver). And for as big as it was outside, it sure didn't have much interior room. I'm not a big guy, but I am a shade over 6 foot, and sitting in the passenger seat I often found myself staring at the sun visor/upper windshield frame (in contrast, I fit quite comfortably in my 240).
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Did you turn the pulley where the belt sits, or the actual front of the clutch that's directly bolted to the compressor? I ask because reguardless of whether the compressor is frozen or not, the pulley should turn fine. It's when the blue wire gets a +12v source that the clutch engauges and the pulley will be connected to the compressor.
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Could that be at least part of the reason why tripples make more high rev power but make less low end torque than su's? I'm sure carb design has more to do with it, but the su manifold does seem to be almost twice as long as the tripple set up.
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They look pretty beefy (the first one especially), perhaps old military truck blocks?
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a flux capacitor and ceramic muffler bearings.
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WWJD. (what would john do)
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On the fume issue, not sure if I'm just lucky or what, but my '73 has zero fumes. Silicone sealer around the tail lights, MSA hatch seal, and that was it. Still has original (rotted) quarter window and hatch glass seals.
RC Car chassis...
in Non Tech Board
Posted
If you're looking for something Pre-Built and just fun to screw around with, I'd reccomend something like the Associated NTC3 RTR or the Traxxas Nitro 4tec. Easy to learn with and pretty tough.
NTC3 - http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGZJ4&P=0
4tec - http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNCA8**&P=0
Just remember...batteries are for flashlights.