X64v
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Posts posted by X64v
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Thanks for the link. If I need anything cleaned I'll probably send them there. I just ordered some rebuilt 338cc ford cfi injectors though so I'm good for now.
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Now I'm in college and DD my 78 Z. With my insanely low suspension, loud exhaust, no amenities (like radio, AC, etc), it is purely a drivers car. I really hope I don't get sick of it...
I'm right in the same boat with ya. 18, daily driving my '73, low, loud, and hot (love music though, had to have the stereo). But I love driving it, and bitch and moan when I have to drive my parents' ford focus. I'll be down there at u of a fall semester, too.
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If memory serves me correctly, it only comes on at a certain coolant temp...something like 210 or so. You can totally ditch it though.
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Great info! Thanks for that link to Motor Man fuel injection supply. If anyone's wondering about them, I just ordered a set of the 338cc ford cfi injectors. The guy who runs it is very knowledgable. When he asked what injector it would be replacing, he noted that the fords didn't have pintle caps like the nissan's did, and had the right size pintle caps put on for free. And for such a great price! $160 shipped for all 6.
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The 4 larger bolt holes are only drilled on heads that originally came equipped with EFI; same with the notches.
It's not super difficult to modify your existing head while it's still on the car. I did it to my e88 when I switched to megasquirt. The hardest part is the bolt holes. I used an old head I had laying around as a guide for those. It's very important to take off the valve cover and measure how thick the head is at the point where you are going to drill, because the later heads were made thicker where the holes go, but the early heads were not. The two outer ones can be fairly deep, but the two center ones can not be very deep at all (see first picture). I covered all the ports with duct tape to keep shavings out.
For the notches, use a cylindrical rotary rasp to carve them out, they work great. I put a nissan gasket up to the head (didn't trust felpro's placing) and colored all of the material that was exposed with a red paint marker. Then I held the drill at about a 45 degree angle and carved the notch out until all the paint was gone. It is important to keep anything that doesn't like aluminum shavings completely covered, as this is very messy. To help minimize the mess, I had a friend hold the vacuum cleaner hose as close to the rasp as possible to suck up most of the shavings as soon as they came off the head. I kept every port covered with duct tape except the port I was working on, which I stuffed tight with 3 or 4 shop towels. I vacuumed all the shavings up before I removed the towels.
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They're wired in parallel, as there's only one wire to each bulb, and it grounds through the gauge. If they all went out at once then it sure sounds like a fuse, or a bad connection where ever they all draw power from.
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The junkyard had a half off sale this weekend, and while I was foreging around, I picked up a junk python injector off a zx to practice on. Well if there's a way to take it apart without damaging it, I couldn't figure it out. I eventually took a hammer to it, and it looks like the top is crimped on, and the bottom where the pintle cap is just doesn't come off.
Perhaps the genuine nissan injectors actually come apart (I would think they'd have to to have the seals replaced) and you're right, I have nothing to loose, because I'm going to order some 338cc ford cfi injectors anyways if these are junk.
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For $25/inj. I think I'll try to clean them myself. I can buy cleaned/flow tested ford injectors in any size I want for $25/inj.
So how would I go about popping them open, without damaging them?
And interesting reading for sure, thanks. Bookmarked.
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I probably wouldn't have a problem with that if I could figure out how they open.
What about sending them out to be cleaned? Would that remove that much gunk?
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Ohm tested them (don't know why I didn't in the first place, just slipped my mind), got about 3 ohms on all of them. I just let them soak in diesel for a couple of hours. One of them unfroze, but I hooked it up to my air compressor at 35psi, and it's taking around a half second to close. What would cause that? Real gunked up maybe?
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Try a small clock radio.
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doh. I don't know why I didn't think to check the resistance first. But I just did, and they all landed right around 3 ohms, which is what they're supposed to be for low Z. I guess that would mean that they're all just stuck.
Does anyone know a way to unstick them besides an ultrasound cleaner? I'm sure that would do the trick, but I don't have one or know anyone who does. Perhaps I should just send them out to be cleaned, since if they're stuck, they could be dirty as well? Would a good cleaning service make sure to unstick them first?
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Just picked up a set of early 300zxt fuel injectors (anyone know the flow rating on them?) off ebay for cheap, and they won't fire. I've tried using a 9v battery, a 12v battery, and just plugging one right into the FI harness with the engine running. The guy says he ran them for a few days and that they were working when he sent them to me, but all six seem to be 'stuck'. Any ideas on what would freeze them up, or what could be broken? Or more importantly, how to get them firing again? It seems weird to me, because the injectors I'm running now sat for 10 years and are originals from an '82, but worked just fine the second I put 9 volts to them.
Thanks.
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Ditto on the link above. There's lots of good guys there; I'm sure one can lend you their garage for a while.
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That's fine, or you can just block them all off.
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That does sound good.
Yeah, l26 pistons shouldn't be hard to find at all, considering no body wants them. They won't be as strong as stock 86mm dished turbo pistons, but I would think they would be as strong as the 86mm n42 dished pistons, and with my 9mm rods (it's a 73) and running 7.8:1 comp ratio, I see no reason why this bottom end couldn't take somewhere in the teens for psi.
[/thread jack]
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My L26 was setup with flattops (I think they had dished pistons stock?) so it was around 8.8:1 which was way fun! Stock was like 8.3:1 for the L26.
They did. I'm on a quest for some l26 dished pistons for my l24 turbo project.
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Free from my father (He doesn't remember what he paid for it, a few grand back in the late 70's). Hadn't run since the week I was born, got it running when I was 15, dad gave it to me 'cause I did 90% of the work on it and loved it so much.
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The qwerty special...
(Qwerty keyboard with the keys mixed around to confuse the parents
good for a few laughs when friends come over) -
Awesome X64z!!! craftsman tools rock!!
Are those metric taps in the bottom left of the photo?
Yup, I figure they'll be with me the rest of my life pretty much. Or at least free replacements
And those are stripped nut removers. Haven't ever used them but my cousin had an extra set so he gave them to me.
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Off to college in June and the Z doesn't fix itself...or grow it's own turbo.
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Wow, that's really cool. Something like that would look cool etched into the quarter window.
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Mine's DATZEN
thought about YATZEE or YAHTZEE
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Age: 17
Single/Married: Single
Car: '73 240
Infractions: None yet
Location: Phoenix area, AZ
Provider: Farm Bureau
Coverage: Liability only, covered in any car I drive, car covered no matter who's driving it.
Discounts: Good student, drivers ed.
Cost: $50/mo (approx. It's $205/mo for the 4 people and 3 cars in our family).
good for a few laughs when friends come over)
Fuel return 240z
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
If you're just going to be running su's on an l28, the stock feed is just fine. If you're using the stock fuel rail, then the stock return is alright as well. If you're not, you can run the return through a fuel pressure regulator and then into the 1/4" vapor line.
All assuming this is a 240z.