X64v

The one in the courtesy nissan link is not the stock one. It has 8 holes in 1 degree increments. That one and AZC's one are the only ones I know of.

I certainly wouldn't trust that stock electric to feed trips. I remember mine didn't put out much, and went out shortly after I started driving the car. You can try it, but if you do want/need to replace it, I would suggest this one. Cheaper than the holly, and no regulator required.

I bought 338cc ford cfi injectors from motor man (link and pics in the sticky at the top of this forum). Bolt right in. Ran $159.94. Not bad for all 6 rebuilt and flow tested. Not sure why you're under the impression you need a surge tank. I don't use one on my 73, and I have had zero problems.

Yup, it happens every time I use the horn (not very often, but still does it when I do use it). Plus it looks crappy. I can take a little shock, I just want it to look better.

That's what I was refering to. "That plate" is the one with a retard/advance scale on it with markings, but no numbers, that's held on with the 8mm bolt. I should have worded it a little better.

That's a Pertronix Ignitor. Uses a little magnet over the hex on the dizzy shaft, and just fires the coil like the points did, nothing special. If you're using a 240 dizzy (looks like it) then unless it's been recurved, 17 degrees at idle is way too much advance, because it'll climb to around 41 degrees full advance. You should be down around 10 degrees of advance at idle. There is a bolt in a slotted hole that holds that plate onto the dizzy. if you loosen it, you can move the plate that has the retard/advance scale on it, therefore letting you back off your timing to whatever.

Ahahaha. Things like that make me glad I never had to live through the 80's. I'm sure it doesn't help knowing there are people here you exchange tech info with that never knew the 80's

A guy in my local z club refferred me. I haven't had a full night's sleep since.

Z-ya meant as far as the megasquirt board is concerned, it's not important. The little regulaters on the board can take 30+ volts without a problem, and still convert it to 5v.

Using my pertronics ignitor in my '73 dizzy, with the vacuum and mechanical advance welded tight. Wired up through megasquirt as if it were points (backwards from a hall/optical). I do have an '82 n/a zx dizzy (mother had an '82, got hit in the front end 10 or 12 years ago so I've been pirating parts from it at will), so I can try wiring that in through the vr circut as well. I've been hesitant, though, because I was under the impression that vr dizzies were even more susceptible to noise/interference than a hall/optical/points set up.

Thanks for the tip, Mario. I was actually having a bit of an rpm spike while running spark control, so I'll flip from my bp6es' to bpr6es-11's and try running spark control again.

NGK BP6ES. Can't remember the exact gap, .032 or .035 I think. And I have a flier for the msa show right next to me.

Got it. Longer b/w to g/w (where the old ballast resistor was), shorter b/w to + terminal (like stock). Anyways, thing runs great. Was able to get WOT o2 to around .6v or .7v up through 7k. I'm up in the high 120's for ve on my fuel map though, so I'm not sure of the accuracy of the o2 reading (stock exaust manifold, have had head pipe sealing issues, so maybe it's sucking in a little outside air). I'll probably get it on the dyno for 20 minutes to check that and get it tuned real well before the MSA show.

Heh yeah...I did do it the next day though. Well the zx coil did the trick! Went out and hit 70 before I even knew how fast I was going (zx 5 speed with a 3.364...redline in 2nd is like 75). Definitely needs some tuning, but now at least I can. Tach stopped working when I wired up the new coil though. I have the longer black w/white stripe wire feeding the + on the coil, with the green/white and shorter black/white just sitting there. I can probably figure it out, but if anyone knows off hand which wire goes were to get the tach working, please share.

Interesting...Seems we have one problem after another, and not the same recurring problem. The fuel pump definitely wasn't getting enough juice before with the original wiring set up. My new wiring set up is now adaquite for the pump's needs. I had checked ignition before, and it was working just fine up 'till as far as I could go, ~4500rpm. Well, now that I could rev higher (and on Mario's prompt), I checked the ignition system again. Hooked up my timing light...showing 10 degrees timing at idle...rev to check full advance...get to ~34 degrees (all mechanical, no vacuum). All is fine, right? Well, I floor it, revs are climbing....and then BAM no more flashes from the timing light. At a certain rpm (revving by hand so I can't tell, I would guess around 5000-5500) my spark is cutting out completely. To make sure the spark isn't falling off the end of the rotor or anything, I dropped timing back 10 degrees...still doing the same thing. So, I'm guessing coil. I'm still running an original type coil with the ballast resistor and all that crap. I have an '82 n/a zx coil, I'll throw that on and see if I can get it to work right.

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When I said I had it, I didn't explain the test I did. I probably should have. This is what I did: cut the inj1 and inj2 wires just after where the 3 injector wires merge into the one wire. I then joined those two wires together, and wired a short lead onto that, basically giving me full manual control of the injectors. I took the outlet off the FPR and routed it into a fuel can. I turned the key to on, and then I would ground the injectors for a couple seconds at a time. When the injectors weren't grounded, the pump flowed 50gph just fine. But when I grounded the injectors (effectively simulating 100% duty cycle), I could hear the fuel pump kick down, and there would be absolutely no fuel coming out of the fpr. So what I did then was wire the fuel pump to another running vehicle via jumper cables, and try the test again. Viola, gobs of fuel coming out the fpr return even under 100% duty cycle. But now I'm having trouble getting the pump enough power on the car. I will be running a number of tests and trying different things in the next few hours. I'm basically just gonna set up the manual injector control again, and keep trying different ways of wiring the pump until I can get fuel out the return with the injectors open (cranking the engine a bit in between to clear all that fuel, and keeping a jump vehicle running and hooked up to the battery so I always have full operating voltage). And it's cool Mario, I was just wiring most of the day anyways. I will be down sometime in the near future to tour the UA engineering college; if I'm still having problems, we could meet afterwards and take a look.

Ditto on what was said above. I'm fairly sure the manifold is not required, but the 70-72 looks a lot better than the 73. You'll need the heat shield from the earlier z as well if you want the stock throttle return springs to work. If you're able to, check the early carbs for excessive play/wear in the throttle shafts.

Hallelujah! Another soul saved! ---heh, been playing too much GTA2 Doesn't actually look half bad. Would be a decent platform for whatever with a change of fluids and rubber. And a good cleaning. It's always nice to save one from being crushed.

In the front shot, it looks like the car is covered in dark wet blood. What air dam is that?

Well, looks like all is not as well as it seemed... I ran new wiring for the pump: 10ga straight off the + starter terminal, into a 30a fuse block w/10a fuse, into a 30a relay, then more 10ga wire to the + terminal of the pump. - terminal of the pump through about 4 inches of 12ga wire (didn't have any more connectors for the 10ga) onto a screw I welded on to the chassis for a ground. Well, the problem persists. It's now occuring around 5000-5500, but it's still there. The thing that made me mad was when I hooked up the pump to an external power source again (1997 chevy van (while running), jumper cables from it's battery directly to 12ga wires coming off the pump) it didn't do any better. That's exactly what I did last time to make it rev fine in neutral, but now it won't...

My fuel pump was running through the original wiring harness (single 12 gauge wire from the battery running everything). I have my injectors coming off a 10 gauge wire from the same terminal. I think they were sapping most of the power from there when their pulse width got up there (even though I'm running peak and hold). I'm just about to run another 10 gauge from the battery to the fuel pump (through a fuse and relay, of course). That should fix it.

I GOT IT! FINALLY! I had my father listen to the fuel pump while I manually grounded the injectors, and he could hear the fuel pump kick down a good bit (engine was off. While the engine was at WOT this was inaudible). I hooked the pump up to another vehicle with jumper cables, and started the car....nailed 7k before I could even let off the gas! Thank you all for all your help. I was THIS ----><---- close to putting the su's back on. I'm glad I did not, as this would have eatin away at me forever. Veritech - I know you're running a 280 that's already got the correct fuel pump wiring, but try what I did...with your simptoms being so similar to mine, it certainly wouldn't hurt to try. Thanks again all, Sean

Here's my current .msq file. MSnS-E verison 029t. current msq.zip

It does this with a full 3/8" feed from tank to rail as well. And I'm getting 60gph free flow/50gph @ 36psi through the 5/16" feed. That's double what the injectors can use, even at 100% duty cycle. Yeah, it's just east of phoenix. If you're taking I-10 from phx to tucson, I'm about 45 minutes east. If you're taking the 60 to the 79 through florence, I'm right off the 60. PM me if you feel like stopping by, you're welcome to.