X64v

I'm in the same boat as olie. It starts with just a slight push of the throttle, hot or cold, and idles just fine cold, but I cannot get it to start without touching the throttle, hot or cold.

Wow, very nice. More room for that motor swap you were thinking about

ahaha, great one. Haven't heard that one before.

React like that to another member of the forum and see how much help you're going to get from anyone else...

No, the duplicolor stuff from csk/pepboys/autozone will not hold up to the heat on the hot side. I painted my manifold and downpipe with it, and it started flaking after the first time I took the car out.

Ipods are a lot more tolerant to water than people give them credit for. I've sent my 4gig nano through the washer with no problems afterward.

ex·ten·sive - great in amount, number, or degree. You will need extensive head work to make the most of a stroker, as 280ZForce said above. It could easily be expensive, but that depends on who you are and who you know. And by the way, all of the questions you have asked regarding head choice, piston selection, block strength, etc., have all been discussed before.

This is the thread you all are probably thinking of: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=108608

Done it as well. E88, but same difference. Blurry, but you can see the detail. When drilling the top inner mounting holes, be careful not to go all the way through the head. There's less material there in the early heads than in the later ones.

If you can get a lot of play to one side, but not to the other, and it resets itself, all you're doing is actuating the mechanical advance by hand.

Oh wow, that sounds awesome. The short exhaust with just the bullet muffler and downpipe was exactly what I was thinking of. From the shape of it, I was worried about getting a high pitched ricey fart-like tone. Thank you, I now know my next muffler. Was that a 2.5" or 3" on the zx?

Nice vid. Your Goat sounds great. I'm on the verge of redoing my exhaust and was curious about those bullet mufflers. I saw 'em on summit for 40 bucks. How loud are they (compared perhaps to a borla, or sound reduction from open pipes)? Do you happen to still have any vids of your l28et with that muffler?

That's an optical breaker. MSA offers it in the form of a crane cams unit. There was something similar in the dizzy of my parts car when I bought it, though it was an unnamed brand.

Very awesome thread, ron and braaap! Definitive weights are exactly what we need to make informed choices, and stop the bickering. Thank you guys!

If I am going to get the fumes then forget it. I must have one of the rare z's that does not have any problems with fumes with a full length exhaust. My exhaust at the moment is too quiet (2.5" with the MSA turbo muffler), and I figured I could cut the ground clearance issue at the same time by eliminating the rest of the exhaust. I ran an open collecter (3-2 header before I went turbo) for a few weeks, and the vibration/noise level from that dumping in the trans tunnel was horrible. I need to find a few turbo guys in the area and see what theirs sounds like.

As the title says. I have a full length exhaust at the moment, but I was kicking around the idea of running a system no more than about 24 inches or so after the turbo. I have heard of a few people running an open down pipe, but I was thinking about adding a small Borla muffler 8 or 10 inches after the turbo to soften the noise a little and give it a nice tone. Is there anything inherently wrong with this, from either a performance standpoint, or a not-choking-to-death-on-exhaust-fumes standpoint? I'm not worried about the legality of such an exhaust; I can throw my full length back on for smog checks. Will the heat from the turbo being that close kill the muffler in short order?

Looks awesome Gary! How did you make it street legal? Last I saw it, it was no where near licensable.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062477&cp=2032058.2032230.2032277&allCount=26&fbn=Type%2FSPST&f=PAD%2FProduct+Type%2FSPST&fbc=1&parentPage=family

I'm running a locked '82 n/a vr dizzy to control spark as well. I took a more...er...permanent approach to it. I first took out the vacuum advance mechanism and tach welded the plate that the magnet sits on to the stationary plate it rotates on (if you look at the diagram above, I did it right where the line from the #8 points). I then assembled it like normal, but instead of putting the screw in under the rotor that holds the #9 shaft to the #12 shaft, I stuck another tach weld in there to hold them in position. Works great so far. It's no longer disassembleable, but zx's are plentiful enough around here in the junk yards, I can just get another one if the reluctor goes out or something.

I also have run across something like that just these past couple days. A datalog of a 1st-2nd pull shows a rich spot of mid 10's right in the middle of a low 12 pull, but the ve bins and map pressure are steady. Nothing else in the datalog corosponds with it, either. Same thing with the first half of 1st gear on this log. I have another log that shows it happening from 1st all the way through 5th. It's an 8.8:1 cr l24 running 7psi on a 280zx t3.

240, build date 5/73. Was my dad's who purchased it in '81. Sat from '89 to when I resurected it in '05. He then gave it to me, and it's been my daily driver ever since. Has been down for two weeks to get a turbo (inturrupted by a trip to ireland), should be back on the road within a week.

A little bit of misinformation above... The fan will spin an infinite number of turns in either direction, no matter it's temperature. There is no solid mechanical link between the fan and belt. The fluid in there makes a viscous connection, very similar to a torque convertor. It will never lock up, regardless of temperature. It should just be easier to spin while cold, and harder to spin while hot (there is a wound metal spring on the front of it, similar to an electric choke or a cheap outdoor dial thermometor. It expands as it warms up, turning a valve inside the fan clutch, which makes it harder to turn). If it takes the same effort to turn cold and hot, then that spring is broken/missing or there is another problem with it, and it needs to be replaced. As to slapping on an electric fan to cure a cooling issue, it's not going to help...see link below, page 5. The stock fan is adaquate, provided it's working correctly. http://www.grapeaperacing.com/GrapeApeRacing/tech/coolingsystems.pdf

I've been there before (gas carts). Loads of fun for sure, but I was left questioning the value of it. The 3 races I ran were great, but for the 50 bucks it cost for my father and I, I could kill a lot of gas in the z having fun. If you've never tried it before though, definitely do it. It's a whole different world from fast cars to fast carts.

Great link. So it looks like the innovate kits that most of us have been using were the right choice.

exactly. my parents' "modern" '97 chevy van has a mechanical fan, as well as my friend's '91 q45 (though it has an auxilary electric mounted as a pusher for a/c while idling in traffic). especially after reading over the material in the other thread bouncing around in this forum, I have been sufficiently convinced that mechanical fans (in good shape, with shrouds) are a-okay.