geezer

If you can't find these locally, do a web search. They are about the best available today that I could find. They work good and were about $30. I have some that I like better, but they are about 40 years old now and not available anymore. It does require a little bit of finese and practice to achieve perfect crimps. Edit - I think I like Dave's suggestion better, looks like a nice tool!

The short answer is yes. How long it takes to become unusable is a question that cannot be answered without taking into consideration a great many variables that will effect the shelf life. There are so many complex mixtures comprised of different ingredients, even from a single paint company that the only way to find out how a particular paint will react is by testing it out and spray some small test pieces. You may find that additional hardners have to be added because the paint just will not dry. You may find that the correct viscosity for spraying cannot be achieved while maintaining color stability. My suggestion is...experiment with it before using it on the car. I have had success using paint that old and even matched the color beautifully and also I've had some real tragic results that had to be removed, which eats up a lot of time. So, just test it out, check for color match, hardening properties etc. Good Luck.

Yeah, that would be different. Bench seat, four in the front.

BSD, I don’t know what you’ve decided on, but there are a few things you should be forewarned about. I tried to steer you towards farming this job out for a number of reasons. The cost to outfit yourself with equipment that will perform to your expectations will far exceed what you plan on spending. Unless you use this equipment on a regular basis it becomes far more expensive than hiring a mobile blaster, who the last time I checked a few years ago was charging from $600.00 -$800.00 to do a completely stripped down Z. The only requirement was, they wanted all undercoating & tarmat removed beforehand. I would not even consider blasting a car unless it is totally disassembled. I have my own equipment and have been blasting for 40 years both as a hobbyist and professionally. I learned long ago that it was not a good idea to sandblast in a garage unless that is the only thing that garage is used for. It’s impossible to close off an area to contain the sand and worse yet, the dust. That crap will get into everything. The type of equipment you are looking at is not up to par for blasting cars. As Careless pointed out you will need a large volume pressure blaster with varying sized ceramic nozzles and good moisture bottles. I use two moisture bottles, one wall mounted between the compressor and regulator and another mounted on the sandblaster. On days when moisture is still a problem I coil 25’ of hose in a 5 gal. bucket of cold water, .inline between the wall mount and the sandblaster. It allows the air to cool and condensate before reaching the second bottle. Works well, especially after the compressor is running hot on a day with high humidity. You will need a compressor that has the ability to keep up with the amount of air the blaster is consuming. The recommended spec 90 – 120 psi @ 9-13 CFM would be a bare minimum. Larger jobs require more volume. The point I am trying to make is you have to decide if what you plan on blasting is worth spending the money on the equipment or not. Did I mention that sandblasting is one of the dirtiest, nastiest jobs you will ever do? Not fun.

Have you tried the Yellow Pages? Locally, we have truck mounted blasting systems that come to your location at a reasonable price. Great if you have a large open area and a cheap dining tent to contain the sand.

Glad it's being resolved to your satisfaction. I don't think I was alone thinking you were getting worked over pretty good. Good luck with the car and the new engine.

A rotisserie has the advantage also of not needing nearly as much floorspace, which is a major concern for most of us.

As long as the landscape is still covered with a web of powerlines, I can envision daily reports of low level flying mishaps, especially if sales volumes are spurred on by affordability. Designing & building the aircraft is the easy part. I think their use will be curtailed until safegaurds are in place. Sure looks like fun though. Forget the commute to work, put some floats on one and I'd take it fishing.

This is more than a week later and you haven't had your car released? Storage fees are still being racked up? You are being bulldozed my friend or you are not doing what is nessesary. I would hate to think that there is a police department sanctioned plot to relieve you of your money or car. Get some local help before you lose your car and still have fines you owe.

Everyone is in agreement, it is best to get your car as soon as possible. Arguing the point with the towyard or driver is pointless. Next, do your research and learn the laws pertaining to this. This is key. Our opinions don't mean squat, even if it doesn't seem fair to any of us, to not get a notification or warning. I wouldn't want you to incur further expense fighting a lost cause, but if you find out that a time warning or notification was required by law, by all means, seek restitution. It wouldn't be the first time an over zealous police officer overstept his authority. Keep Cool & Good Luck!

With the starter, alternator, battery and hood removed, the definition of "non-op" vehicle comes solidly into play, I would think, so all that remains is the letter of the law. You should be able to research the local ordanances without retaining a lawyer. Regardless, if you are found to be at fault or your car was towed prematurely you can bet the towing company is protected in the actions they have taken. Their first order of business is to cover their own a$$. When you show up at the tow yard with the intention of picking up your vehicle, all they care about is getting their money and the car is authorized to be released. They don't care about your schedule and when it is convenient for you to pick up your car or who is at fault for it being in their yard. It's simple. You show up during their posted regular hours of operation, pay all related fees, they release your car. Can you imagine how many phone calls they must get from irate people who mistakenly think the tow yard can play judge & jury? They are mearly contracted for services provided, in this case the PD. You wanted an unbiased opinion. Pay the fine, let it go. It's a bummer, live & learn. An understanding police officer might have reacted differently if a note was left on the vehicle explaining your plight.

This one was specifically for the Canadian dealerships by the looks of it. Yeah, I'm interested in scans. Sent you a PM.

LOL Hows about - If wasn't for the thing between their legs, there'd be a bounty on them!

I have both wires showing as black coming from what is described as the KD Solenoid. I imagine the one wire would have been routed to what is shown as the KD Switch, which to me would logically be activated by the gas pedal. KD = Kick Down. That's the only thing it could be since you ruled out Park/Neutral/Reverse. If you want I'll email the schematic.

Isn't that the Park/Neutral Saftey Switch? Forget about it if you went manual. Maybe kickdown solenoid? What are the wire colors?

I have a publication from Nissan that illustrates all the changes from 1974-1974.5-1975. I was going to try to condense the info but there is too much to list here, but there are only a few parts that are '74.5 specific and did not make the transition to the 1975 model year. They are: -fuel hose -air conditioner hose -exhaust center tube -harness -fuel tank(an increase of 1.4 US gal to 17.2 US gal (dependant on model) The many other changes made for the '74.5 model were also incorporated into the 1975 model. It can get confusing covering just the different model lines for North America. When broken down for California, USA, Canada, 2 seater, 2+2, manual trans, automatic trans and the 3 model years ('74,'74.5,'75) there are 36 different model designations listed.

Baby killer? Sure she wasn't knocked up before you met her? As soon as you think you've got something figured out about women, they will let you know you don't. How well did your sincere apology go over? LOL

The '74.5 model S30 was produced from Sept. 1, 1974 until the start of the 1975 model year, so yours is a 1974 model. As mentioned, the external appearance/body is the same as the 1975 model, but the engine/powertrain remained the same as the '74 model. There are many other not so obvious changes from the '74 model to the '74.5 model.

I had no problems, the structure did not twist, but I did take a few simple precautions. Before beginning the project, preferably before the fenders & doors are removed or any cutting is done take several measurements from several different reference points and record them. Refer back to these measurements before permanently welding components into place. Use spreader bars between the A post & B post. Another bar tying both spreader bars together to prevent lateral twist could be implemented if you still have concerns. Only work on one side at a time, to retain as much ridgity as possible. The inner rockers are sufficent alone to prevent misalignment as long as you watch out for that lateral twist. Use a string or a laser, whatever you have to check for the "2X4" bow effect. The rottiserie itself, if not tied properly with a spreader bar, end to end could also cause problems. It's all just common sense with a measure of caution thrown in.

I crossed over from a Gibson SG to my Fender Ultra. Plays low & fast. It never leaves the house anymore so I matched it up with a Vox AD30VT and that's all I need. You can get a well kept Ultra cheap enough if you keep an eye out. Just make the rounds at a few shops and try some different models out.

What's the difference between the PowerForce and the PowerForce+Plus?

What home improvement could you possibly do better than having this car parked in the driveway? Very impressive! It's probably being watched on Ebay by a lot of people. You sure deserve to get a lot more than your reserve. Good Luck!

The 3M discs are among the tools in my arsenal. Every situation requires a different aproach. 3M has put out more great products than any other single company I can think of.

I was thinking the same but in our case, the lower profile is a bonus. I wish I had a nickle every time I could have put one like this to use.

Seems odd that the 2.2 ton is $20.00 less than the 1.8 ton. Was that the case, or just a misprint?