fastzcars

I applaud your attempts to get full length headers to fit, but I hope your going to reinforce the shock tower's with some roll bar material? You've just eliminated most of the strength of the chassis by doing this!

Chequered flag sells 39 spline versions, but they are $830 a pair , plus you have to get the matching companion flanges to run them at $490. so you be in $1,320. That looks like a clean break! I hope you get your car back together soon! Now I'll have to inspect my MM axles as well just in case!

here's my z with 17x9 from and rear. GC and DP racing coilovers at willow springs

Tom, you do NOT want to skimp on your brakes for obvious reasons. dont mess around with brakes without a GOOD understanding of what you are doing! Your putting your car, yourself and others in harms way. My suggestion is to get new lines made to size with the appropriate fittings size's , the wilwood is a american standard size threads and the originl dastsun fiting sizes are metric. here is a great thread that explains it all! I don't mean to sound like a A___E but the few dollars and hours your trying to save is just not worth it. That's my 2 cents! http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/102754-a-one-inch-diameter-brake-master-cylinder-for-the-s30-z-cars/

I have a set of S&S headers that I no longer use. I can sell them to you. PM me!

I've done about 3 wiring jobs since i finished my z about 5 years ago, so i have a little bit on knowledge on the z. I to used a hotrod universal 21 circuit wiring harness very similar to the "painless" harness except it was about half the price. I'm going from memory here, but the steering collum wiring from the z was the most difficult part. The stock light switch actually grounds the circuit to the headlights, there is a constant POSITIVE 12 volts to one side the head lights. I installed 2 relays to take the load off the switch. Other than that everything else was just following the wiring's location written on the wires themselves. My first full wiring job was my Z and that took me 2 weeks of on and off time.The last job I did was for a 69 chevelle that took me 2 full days. I know it looks intimidating , but just separate the workload down to smaller sections. Work one circuit at a time and you'll get through it. I hope that helps!!!

Hi have a V8, wide tires and small after market steering wheel , add a bad shoulder to the mix and it all contributed for me to install PS.

It's bee a while since i been on the sight , but I have a couple of questions? when you say you have a stock slave cylinder, what year and car is it out of? What is the clearance between your throwout bearing and the clutch fingers? If your clearance is too tight the clutch and flywheel assembly will heat up and expand, taking up that clearance. If my memory serves me right there should be about 0.100 to 0.300 clearance. But don't take my word for it, refer to the clutch manufactures specs.

I seem to remember that the camaro hub was used along with the disc. I found the post. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/48638-11-34-rotors-with-5-lug-hubs/

I have the same issue with my t56 and it was brand new trans! I think its an inherent design "flaw".

Thanks for posting more pix peej410! it just gives more enthusiasm to continue with my own project! Thanks again.

Hi Peej410, do you have any new progress pix and or video's posted. I'd like to hear how your hedders look and sound?

Nicely done! Im in the process of gathering stainless steel supplies for my set! You gave me some ideas!!! Post more pix if you have any more!

I've been looking as well with no results! it seems that the rebuilder's have a monopoly on the repair kits! If by chance you happen to find an outlet please post! Thanks!

Sorry I meant to say " I wouldn't feel bad" darn auto correct strikes again on my phone!