Challenger

So, embarrassing.... The wideband was working fine. It was running lean. Added fuel and it's running alot better around 13:1 or so. Also closed the gap up on the Vr sensor it's about 50 thous or less to the wheel. It was way to far before. Still have a miss In the timing light though. Can't really hear anything when it doesn't flash. I'm gonna wait till my tank is back in to do much more, the milk jug isn't quite cutting it. Haha

Thats what im trying to figure out as well. Default is 0-5V = 7-23 AFR so im hoping thats what it was left as since I bought it used a couple years ago. There appears to be no problem with the communication between the sensor and controller and controller and MS so it might just be as you said, someone changed the output configuration. Sadly I have none of the software or parts to check.

Yeah, I've done the whole calibration process a couple times. Always works and gives the proper led flashes. The weird thing is that the sensor is responding to lack of oxygen. I used a rag with starter fluid on it and it can go to the rich side (that would mean its not acting like a narrow band). It's just weird that it's pegged at 5V, no flutter or anything. I can't imagine it being what you say about air and fuel going through unburned cause it doesn't seem like its missing THAT much but definitely something to consider. At this point I need a definite way to know what's broken. Wbo2 stuff is spendy. Thanks

Fuel tank return was plugged up which was making the fuel pressure ridiculous. In the process of getting the tank cleaned so I have it running out of a milk carton, seems like its working fine. The car is running way better at 35 psi fuel pressure at idle but it still seems to be doing a little bit of wandering and is shaking more than it should. Seems like it might be missing because of the roughness and shaking. I went to check the timing again and what I noticed is that the timing light will skip a a flash or two every once in a while. I assume that means I am not getting a consistent spark. I couldnt tell if the idle was dropping or getting rougher when the light didnt flash but Ill look into it more. Idle manifold pressure is around 50 kPa. I will try to get a good data log once I get the VR sensor back on. A few things Im gonna check: 1) VR sensor gap seems to be to much, Ill need to drill out the holes some to get it closer. The rpm signal in megasquirt is consistent but then again the reading in tuner studio is an average so it might not show a few missed VR signals. 2) Pull plug wires or injector plugs to see if anything changes 3) Characterize miss, loss of spark 4) Fuel filter, might as well check it. Im trying to figure out if my LC-1 is working. It is showing a full 5V when idling which is super lean. The car runs ok at idle so I cant imagine it being that lean, but who knows? Doesnt explain the timing light issue but maybe it is running lean. Any advice is appreciated.

Having my tank cleaned so I figured Id clean off the sender and get it working again. There is a power and ground going to the potentiometer and then a third yellow wire that goes down to a small metal canister with a very thin wire in it. The small wire inside the cylinder was broken so I assume it didnt work but what does it do? Couldnt find anything in the chiltons. Is it for the low fuel light possibly?

Well my car started so sounds like it worked! haha. I actually found a wiring diagram from Chrysler for this, Ill look to see If still have it.

Well my car started so sounds like it worked! haha. I actually found a wiring diagram from Chrysler for this, Ill look to see If still have it.

A couple things to check. Throw on a gauge to see what your pressure ACTUALLY is. If you think the tank might be rusty the return line might be clogged, that would make your fuel pressure higher at times possibly. (just happenned to me) Also as far as your idle, I dont know what all youve plugged on your manifold but make sure you didnt delete the idle controls. If so, just adjust the idle screw.

Ill look at doing that. Sure would be easier to just have to tune the VE until it runs smooth. The red line on the second graph is AFR not CLT, the labels on the left where CLT is red is for the 3rd graph not pictured. I'll be working on it tomorrow night so I'll try to deactivate those and get the car warmed up so I just have to tune the VE. I pulled the wbo2 out cause I feel like I may be running rich or lean and supposedly it's not great for it to see extremes. Also at some point if I get it running smooth ill hook it up and see if its like other innovatives and not working.... Also here's a question.. Is it ever possible to have the engine lean out with increased pulse width?

Alright, I got the timing working. Set the fixed timing to 0 and it came in lined up with the timing light, did 20 and it was a ways off, then ten split the difference. Works for me. Still working on the idle. Timing is fixed at 20 BTDC.

Alright another update, I checked my timing again cause it seemed like it was poping and backfiring and sure enough it seems like its fixed at 0 degrees.. This is probably a problem (duh) so Ill be looking into it. Im confused because I had it running earlier and it wasnt reading 0.

What a learning curve this is! Wooo! haha. Anyways, I havent had any issues getting it to start its just to keep it idling. Sometimes it will start quick and then be pretty smooth, other times not so much. The times that it does run reasonably well and has close to stoich AFRs it will run maybe 15 seconds and then just lean out and die. Ive been messing around with the VE, ASE and WUE but it doesnt seem to be changing it. The fact that it is such a quick drop off is weird. I can see the pulse widths go up at the end and it leans out and dies?? Kind of backwards no? I have attached a picture of the megalog. How do I attach a megalog or my tune file? Do I have to zip it? I just recorded one that really shows it lean out. Any advice on this is much appreciated. I am sure there is other information needed to diagnose this so let me know. Ask away and Ill let you know what I know. Im reading, testing, reading, testing... Specs: EDIS 6: Confirmed spark on all cylinders and checked timing on cylinder 1, was dead on TDC when I set the fixed timing to 0. I now have it at 20 fixed. Fuel Injectors: Both banks are firing, Im trying to find a fitting to hook up my fuel pressure gauge but I dont think the fuel pressure is the issue.

Just working on getting my car to idle nicely. Once concern I had was what 0% means to megasquirt. I do not have any sort of idle control on my car and am just using the stock throttle body with an adjustable idle screw. My question is... should I set 0% on the TPS as the throttle being completely closed to where no air comes in or should it be 0% at idle? Right now I have it set up to where at idle the TPS is at about 8%, that roughly keeps the RPMS in the 600-700 range. Does this sound right? Thanks

Nope... haha. No, sorry havent been on much. I think they look ok. The problem I see is that they are already long (2+2s) I dont think they need any more body features to make them longer. Thats partially why I went with a 240z bumper and urethane lower air dam in the front, looks a bit more proportionate. There are a few pictures in this thread of 2+2s with gnoses. They might be dead links by now.

Hey, sorry for the late reply. The coil pack was off of the dodge mini van, EDIS module was from the Explorer and the VR sensor from a Escort. Just get out to a junkyard and go look around, you learn a ton once you actually see it on a car compared to looking at pictures and reading car models and years. It was quite fun because there are so many of these parts at junkyards so its a sure find, and theyre all cheap! So I finally got the balls to try to start it! Had a few issues with fuel leaks that I will address before I do any more. Also had forgotten there was no idle screw on the throttle body so I was getting absolutely no air into the engine.... drrrr. Sounds like 10% was a good throttle position for a stable idle around 600rpm. You can see the RPMs only fluctuate about 40-50 rpm, not bad for a first start. Hopefully Ill be able to get it where I can let it idle for awhile and Ill see if I feel safe putting the WB02 back on.... Pretty exciting!!! Couldnt have done it without hybridz! More updates to come this week!

Not yet, I have been busy with other stuff and its just way to cold outside to work... I hooked MS up and was able to get my sensors calibrated, tables loaded, I think everything I need to start it. I still need to check my timing with the trigger wizard but I think it should be close. Hopefully in the next week or so Ill get out and start checking if I have fuel and spark. I have a few questions on how to do the test mode for those but ill have to look at tuner studio again and try a few things out. Before I try to start it I need to prime the oil pump and add coolant as well. Hopefully tomorrow afternoon I can do a little bit. As far as EDIS, I just looked at a bunch of different posts here. There is a post by Brapp that is really good. He tests out EDIS systems manually and shows all the wiring.

Just hooked up my MS tonight for the first time! Learning a lot as I go through and look at all the settings. Heres the question, I am in Ignition Options and am setting up the general ignition settings. Under "Spark Mode" I am allowed to choose EDIS or EDIS multispark. Which am I wanting? I am using the standard setup for EDIS-6. I have been searching the megamanual, hybridz and the web but cant find which one I need. Also, I have the trigger wheel set up to have the missing tooth 60 degrees clockwise from the VR sensor when looking from the front of the engine. From what I understand If I set the Trigger Angle/Offset(deg) to 60 (+ or -, not sure which one, is it -60 because its before TDC?) that should put it very close. After that Ill just need to adjust the trigger wheel itself or the offset with the aid of a timing light? Ignition input capture = rising edge and spark output = "going high (inverted)" Correct? Thanks!

I cut my hard lines back to where they just enter the wheel well. I used 240sx ss lines attached to where i cut them back and they fit nicely. This is with Zraceproducts bracket (like the maxima) and 83 calipers. Switch the calipers from left to right and I think you do the same on the e brake cables and everything should be out of the way... I'm leaving till next Tuesday but I'll try to get some pictures of my setup when I get back.

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/94061-78z-l28et-ms2-edis-holset-swap/page__view__findpost__p__886131__fromsearch__1 I used it. Look at the pictures in the above thread. I went and had two tubes with crimped ends made to length and then screwed it all together. Worked out nicely.

I thought for a second... Moby.... Mobi? Haha The tuner studio Bluetooth adaptor is pretty cool, this is when I wish I didn't have an iPhone.

http://mobisquirt.org/ I'm so far away from doing anything like this but I figured I'd see if others had used this. Looks like it needs wifi... In your car...

Phantom have you been able to get the green cups out? Im thinking about putting in red. Are you just going to get different color light bulbs or is there something to replace the green cups with for a different color? Also, how do you get the center three out without removing the dash, they have the brackets that bolt them in from the back side, are these accessible from the front if you remove the A/C control panel?

Gothalosism, I'm thinking more along the line of hard vinyl like the original, not the vinyl you can get at a fabric store. Maybe I should still try that, I'm just concerned about wrinkles. Also no fake cf on my car. Haha. I looked on their website, what is it actually made out of? Looks interesting.