Challenger

Ive done a few intake manifolds and tried to use the alumiweuld. As you have found and everyone has mentioned, your trying to heat up a big huge aluminum fin. Not suprisingly, I cut a manifold in half and tried it again and sure enough it started melting the rod very easily. To much mass to get that hot. Oven sounds like a good idea as long as its not your wife/moms oven. Burning fuel/oil/grease is not good in a kitchen. haha That said, the areas I was able to get it to melt worked pretty good.

So the dwell gauge is just garbage information?

So are you trying to take the heat shield off or the manifold? I assume you don't have the intake manifold off.

Im using a wideband, I cant imagine doing this with a narrowband. haha Enrichments end at 160. Thats another reason I havent been able to tune much more, my car is intercooled, oil cooler, 160 thermostat and no hood. Car wont even get out of WUE if Im driving it moderately. Im hoping with the hood and my radiator ducting it will be better. Might have to go up to a 190 thermostat. Yeah I am gonna set up some sort of way to organize and categorize tunes and data logs. Little update, tuning is gonna be put on hold for awhile. Ive been driving around up till last night on just a downpipe and now I only have about 7-8 ft of 3 inch straight pipe. (not done haha) Anyways I took the car to show my grandpa and my dad called and said there was a cop in front of our house for an hour waiting for me to come back. I do not doubt my car has been annoying but Ive tried to keep it going around speed limits since I live in a residential area across from a school. Anyways, 25 in first is plenty loud and sounds like Im speed so I imagine someone thought I was speeding.. Oh well, my car isnt a 100% legal so Ill need to get some stuff figured out before I drive it more. Thanks

Bump still need this... Anyone?

Thanks for the input. Well I think my VE tables are pretty good for how much I have done. I definitely need to study more on AFR maps to further tune my VE tables. I will be getting the full version at some point soon hopefully. Id like to get it closer before I spend the money for it. So I started looking at my EGO settings and what is everyone using for the constraints as far as MAP, TPS and coolant? Right now my coolant is set to 160 degrees which it barely reaches right now. On warmer days I assume Ill have no problem getting past that. Im kind of concerned with the controller authority and MAP settings. Right now its not doing anything for boost... good thing my VE puts me at like 11:1 in boost. Also, I have my base AFR table I have been using and its only for <100kPa. Is there anyway to keep my AFRs and just extend the table up into boost?

Thanks guys! Good news today. Friday and last night I went to drive the car and it was running really lean, popping and backfiring. Both times I just parked it and came back later to it running pretty good... BUT it is running pretty good and against my better judgement I was able to get get into boost a couple times... got up to 5 psi which is as far as I can tell, plenty to get me in trouble, it really felt like it was gonna take off. I cant imagine what it will be like tuned! I think it was at 11:1 when I hit 5psi and 30ish degrees advance. Im dont think the 30 is safe but I wont be driving it in boost more till its tuned (and I make sure it wont go much past 5psi) Anyways I took it further than its ever been away from the house, a whole 3.5 miles away!! Wooo! Also just got back from a photo shoot with my friend so I should have some more nice pictures of the car.

I was able to get a good portion of my VE table in the right range but looking at my megalog I can tell my VE without EGO correction wouldnt be producing my target AFRs. I assume thats what I want to aim for. Seems like I should have tuned for longer by watching my AFR and then adjusting the VE till I get to the AFR I want. Once that is done, go into your AFR table and put in the AFR you had been trying to achieve. At that point you can turn on EGO correction and in theory the engine shouldnt run differently since target AFR are what the VE produces. I was looking at a log of a drive and it seems like you can see the actual AFR move towards the target AFR fairly quickly, is there a way to look at what the instantaneous AFR correction is? That way I could look at the log and see where my VE tables need to be richened or leaned out. I assume this is exactly what tunerstudio's VE analyze live does? Thanks Heres some incentive to help, drove it a wopping 7 miles today! Thats the furthest its been in YEARS!

Disconnect the fuel line going to the fuel rail and see if you can pump fuel into a can or bottle. If nothing comes out, make sure the pump is turning on, the fuel filter isnt plugged, and if the fuel filter is plugged that the fuel tank supply line (behind the rear passenger wheel) isnt clogged. Does it crank?

Dash looks good andy. How do you like the half cap for the dash? I had bought the full cap and it didnt fit very well even with a lot of persuasion, I ended up ripping (literally) off. Seems like the half cap doesnt need as complex of curves so it can fit better. How well did it match up color wise? Also, what kind of seats? They look nice.

Also, my vr signal seems pretty consistent in tuner studio and on the megalog but is it a possibility Im loosing the VR signal every once in awhile? I just checked the VR to trigger wheel gap again and it seemed pretty good. I spun it by hand and tried to check different spots and then I cranked over the engine. You can see a little bit of "wobble" to it but from my measurement everything is 40-50 thousand, for sure its all under 60 which I heard was considered the upper bound to be safe. http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b81/BRAAPZ/EDIS/results1Large.jpg

Thanks guys! Its not "up and running" how Id like quite yet. Im fighting megasquirt and possibly EDIS... There seems to be a miss throughout the RPMs (ive really only revved it parked) At this point Im just trying to just get it running smoothly on low load conditions. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/106480-new-ms-install-running-rough/page__view__findpost__p__996068__fromsearch__1 Let me know if you have any input. I graduate May 13th and I would be so happy if I could drive this to school, I better get working! haha

Other timing light is doing the same thing. I pulled the plug wires off again and tried to hold them where they could easily spark to the plug tip and for awhile 5 and 6 seemed to be skipping a spark every once in awhile. You could hear it in the engine, it would stumble. I tried it again later and it didn't seem to be doing it. I dont think it was how I was holding it, I tried to get it as close as possible to where I could still see the spark so I wouldnt get any erroneous "missed" sparks. I turned on the dwell gauge in tuner studio and it was doing something crazy, going up to 102.36mS? I was reading and It said the dwell dial is actually the saw signal.... is there a way to interpret that? Should it be that high? The settings you see in my first post for standard dwell are 3.1mS... Should it be standard dwell?

a550x is what I first thought of when I saw that picture. I dont really like the look.

Well I'm open to it being anything, what concerned me was what the timing light was doing. I didn't get a chance to see if it's missing flashes with the other timing light but I'll check tomorrow. This is a valid concern, correct? Did you look at the megalog? I have it actually running pretty rich in all of the low load conditions (low load is all I worried about right now). I read that something even into the 15s or low 16s is ok AFR for low load, is that correct? What about idle? I heard others say they were in the 11s or 12s for a good idle. Am I just going way to rich? Ive been cautious to not go above 14 cause I just associate lean, detonation and destruction with that. Haha. I mentioned that it seemed to clear up at 2000+, it was running a little leaner up high, maybe I need to lean up everything. I may just be too cautious at this point. Although there still is a little miss even when it was in the higher Rpms but it was cleaner, clearer miss if that makes sense. One reason why I Was thinking of an ignition issue. Sounded like I missed an ignition event or two and then catches again. I guess that's where the full tuner studio might come in handy. Also, this is a more general tuning question, should I tune the VE tables to get to the AFR I want and then set the corresponding bins in the AFR table to that value? I turned on ego correction for the first time today just to see if it worked, I'm not sure exactly what I want in there yet... What do you mean by map Settings? I'll update tomorrow hopefully. Have to fill it up with gas again, I guess a hint I'm running rich? Haha.

Did 1,2,4. Everything looks good. Reving it up to 2000+ and it seemed like it clears up and is smoother but every once in a while I do hear a miss. I got a different timing light im going to try it out tonight.

Well, basically youd have to have known me for atleast the last 8 years or so to understand why this is such a big step... I bought this car some 10 years ago when I was 11, we (my mom and dad) drove it for a little while and did mostly safety fixes along with some rust removal. We had are ups and downs for a few years after that, it sat for awhile torn apart and then I got back into it probably early high school. Ended up painting it junior year and doing most of the interior that year. Following summer I worked on the suspension and then two summers ago I tore the engine out and started to swap in a turbo engine from my 81 ZX. Plans changed as it went in, ended up with EDIS, MS, a holset and some less then optimum wiring but it seems like everything will work as is. I learned a lot about wiring and will definitely be redoing it this year sometime. Last summer I was gone for an internship so I made an effort to work on it this school year. Got it to start within the last month or so and then yesterday, I got the wheels and tank in to where I could move it outside. Anyways, this is the first time that its been outside for a couple years, and the first time its moved outside on its own power in several years. Today I drove it further then it has ever been from my house in 8+ years probably which was a whole 300 yards or so. haha. Either way, it runs kind of crappy right now and Im working on getting it running before I graduate... from college. I was supposed to drive it in high school. haha Anyways, I graduate in a few weeks and will be moving to Seattle for work so hopefully this will be in good enough shape to get over there, it might take a miracle to drive it there but who knows, I have a couple months till I actually start work so I have a little room. Lastly, thank you hybridz for all the support and help. It has been priceless throughout the process and It would have taken 15 years without you guys. Haha. I am by no means done asking question, probably just the opposite. Thanks again!

So I officially got my car running in the last couple of days. Ive been able to get it out of the garage and around the block. This morning it seemed like it was running great (for basically no tune). Seemed pretty smooth at idle and if I revved it any. Went for a drive and part way through it changed sounds and sounded like it was missing, just sounded rough. Ive attached the datalog from that run. I cant say for sure when it changed in the datalog but Ill try to remember. On the drive I very slowly accelerated, basically like sitting and revving the engine, never much past 60kpa. I went ahead and hooked up my timing light and it doesnt seem to be flashing consistently. Number 6 didnt even flash, but it is firing. Doubting my light I took it to my RAV4 and it seemed to be missing flashes a little but not nearly as much as on the Z. All of the cylinders are firing and as of last night I had great spark (pulling the wires showed some big arcs). Pulling injector plugs noticeably changes the idle. Just so we arent on the wrong page to start off, here are my ignition settings. I am just running a fixed timing for now to figure things out. Ignition system is a caravan coil, EDIS 6, escort VR sensor on Derek's trigger wheel. Luckily with the free version of tuner studio I can atleast look at triggering. This is what I found. Although on the graph it shows a missing bar (#15) it doesnt show it as a miss in the table? Are these numbers what I should expect for consistency? I attached the excel spreadsheet of the trigger log as well. I know I havent checked everything yet that I need to but I wanted to get input on what the course of action should be. Plans for Tomorrow: 1) Check spark visually again on all cylinders. 2) Check pulling injector plugs again. 3) Get a different timing light to check for consistent behavior 4) Check VR sensor to see if it moved 5) Set car on fire? haha Ill get back tomorrow on the answers to these. 2012-04-24_13.58.25firstdrive.msl.zip 2012-04-24_20.46.17_triggerlog.csv.zip

My iPhone is working perfectly on hybridz. haha Although, I wish there was a "my content" on the mobile website format. I find myself clicking on full website alot.

Looks good, I like the fronts but I dont know what I want to do on the back of my car, its all smooth... no bolt holes.

Got the grill and headlight wiring. Still need a front turn signal. I dont need the lense, chrome trim or hardware, just the housing, bulb, wiring and rubber shield/boot piece. Also needing a wiring harness from the dash. For my 78 280z, under the glove compartment there is a set of two black connectors, both are 5x2 with a split section that sections off a 1x2 section on one side. The harness goes to the hazard switch, radio, amongst other things. I mostly need just the harness but any of the other small switches or lights connected to it would be great too. Thanks Heres the connectors that go to the harness i need.

By reverse do you mean female or male?

Need either a late 260 or 280 grill. Need the plug (just a 4 inch section of wire with the plug) for the front right headlight as well as the entire front right turn signal assembly. Let me know what you have and how much.

Yeah, I plan on doing a rewire down the road, sometime this year once I get it fairly debugged and I think Ill get something thats considered more bomb proof. An update. Car is running pretty good at idle and even up into the 1500+ range. Still a little shaky though, not as smooth as Id like. Anyways, I was checking each of the spark plugs with the timing light and 5 and 6 didnt flash. Everyone else is flashing bright. I went ahead and checked to see if they were firing at all by pulling the plugs on the injectors. The idle didnt change much at all. Both injectors have good 12V so its getting fuel but I think its not getting a good spark. I went ahead and tried to run the car on just 5 and 6 and it barely ran while running on any other 2 cylinders it was smooth. I cleaned up the spark plugs on 5 and 6 and tried it again and was able to get 5 to start flashing with the timing light. So, problem looks to be in the coil pack, wire or spark plug. My initial guess was the spark plugs were fouled but I went and sprayed them with starter fluid and wire brushed them and it didn't seem to do much good. I suppose there is a possibility there is an issue with the injectors but who knows. I dont think theyre leaking to where its fowling those plugs cause Im holding good fuel pressure after the engine is turned off. I wont have time till sunday or monday next week but I guess I have room to improve the idle. I guess best course of action is to get a new set of spark plugs? Whats reccomended? I remembered something about resistor plugs or something like that not working well with EDIS. Anyone remember something like that? Ill have to find where I saw that.