Challenger

Bre spoiler will fit on a s30 and look good. I would like the sdi 5.25 for my 2+2. Im not sure how that would fit as is.

Pillar pod would be good.

In my opinion the dash caps are tacky. Mine fit ok, but the glovebox doesn't fit right or match, I couldn't put any of the knobs under the steering wheel. The sides of the dash shoe from the side. I have my dash out for wiring and am really considering this or some other more drastic measures.

I drove my ZX for a couple months going into fall wearing a coat/beany everywhere I went. I was terrible. Turned out it was just a relay was rusted but I found that out this summer. Too late.

Nevermind, I had mine sitting outside but now its gone...

I don't, I suppose I shouldn't be talking then. Haha. I can't say whether or not it actually hinders drivability but the concept of having more throttle at a smaller pedal input still doesn't register with me as a benefit. Especially with the stock linkage which opens quickly already given the linkage geometry. Matt did you ever drive it without the cable throttle? If not, I think you have eliminated the original problem. Doesn't the 240sx tb have a pulley that changes radius as you apply more throttle? In turn changing the rate at which the tb opens with respect to pushing the pedal.

Having full throttle at a much smaller petal input is not my idea of drivability. Throttle control and being able to make small changes is my idea of drivable. I assume you used the stock linkage? Also I think 50 is conservative for the costs. Generally a 60mm tb if you can't get it at a jy will be 30-40 or so with shipping. Doesn't seem like the original poster will be making his own spacer which is gonna put the price up a lot more.. Seems like alot of work for benefits I don't see. I might do it down the road so I can convert to cable which will help with drivability, it looks alot cleaner and silicone tubing is a little easier to find for the 60mm.

There's nothing wrong with the stock tb. I wouldn't bother with the electric fan, water pump, etc. You'll be getting alot more bang for the buck if you just get it running perfect in it's stock condition. As drax said check into a different rear end ratio but before anything make sure everything is working as it was designed. Brakes, suspension, get those addressed before anything else. Before you do anything do alot of reading here to see what actually works. There are so many rumors and performance tips passed along that have no merit.

Double post.

Sweet! Im really anxious to hear back from them. They removed the posting from their website so Im hoping that means they wont be hiring for fall and will be looking for someone for spring... hopefully it doesnt mean they found someone.

Little update. I was able to go to a diesel shop and get a proper banjo fitting, it was also $4 cheaper. I tried to get out the studs on the manifold but 3 out of 4 snapped. I guess I should have let them soak longer. But I did get an idea where I can just leave them as is broken in the manifold. Seeing that Id have to use two gaskets on the flange with a spacer and longer studs I decided to just weld the flange on. I can tap the spacer for new studs which will be the same as the original as far as length, I can use whatever thread I want, 1.25 or 1.5. I will have maintained the single gasket configuration like original and I wont have to remove the old studs which are proving to be a huge pain, Id probably need to drill them out completely if I needed to get them out. Also got my pulley back. Turned out it was only $10! It looks pretty good, looks like a single row pulley.. haha I called a guy in town about getting the spacer cut but he hasnt called me back.. Id really like to get the turbo mounted within the next week or so.

Hahaha. All I could think about was some corny fast and furious type movie where she ends up stealing his car. Haha Definitely need pics of both car and girl.

I'm considering using a large relay with a small switch just to simplify the wiring being that it's 2 gauge wire going to my battery. My batter is in the left rear of my hatch area. Under the raised floor and behind where the plastic panel will be.

Shieled wires are reccomended. Ive seen magnecor reccomended, concensus is dont go cheap on wires.

Is there a way to check the fuel dampener? Have you tried starting the car without the gas cap?

But note that the hy from what Ive read doesnt need a spacer, its more bolt on and go. Although youll most likely need to clock the housing for the oil lines to line up correctly.

If you have the original ZX turbo banjo bolt try to thread it in. If it goes in a little and stops the hy is most likely a 12x1.5.

Stopped by a diesel shop in town, they had turbos sitting all over the place.. including an hy35. Anyways they were able to get me a 12mmx1.5 banjo fitting to fit the hx35w. The stock banjo fitting is 12x1.25 so this will work perfect with the stock oil lines. Also talked to him about feeding the turbo as well as the drain. He said it was important to have no places where it turns more than 45 degrees. It should be a strait shot, or very close to strait right into the oil pan so it doesnt back up and go through the seals into your intake and exhaust housings = lots of smoke. He had a funny story about that. haha Ill be cutting my stock return line down or checking to see what a used one originally for the holset costs so I can run a new hose to the oil pan.

What do you mean by valvetrain loss? Id love to make some kind of old formula replica with an engine like this.

2nd day back. Taking thermo, fluids, circuits, mechanics of materials, materials engineering... I already feel behind. haha

I might have the opportunity to skip a sememster and move down to texas to work for Lockheed Martin. Where Id work is in Lufkin, anyone near that? Trying to get a little information on the area and Ill be researching what living expenses would run. They needed someone for a fall co-op but they got the go ahead to late so he doesnt think hell find anything. But it seems like theyre pretty interested in me and if they did pick me Id move down right after fall semester stay through winter break, spring semester, and then the rest of summer. After that Id return back to school and finish out my schooling. Im pretty excited theyre interested, it my dream company, Ive wanted to work with them since middle school. haha Any information is appreciated. Thanks

The return is actually really close to the size of the holsets. Also how thick a spacer are you guys using? Im going to measure it when get home. Im getting a t3 flange spacer cut in town for like 20-30 bucks so I need to decide what size tonight.

I wanted to find something like that but couldnt.. What is it made out of exactly? What kind of plastic?

Gonna pick up the pulley tomorrow. Basically I had the front pulley turned off. Itll look nice. Got the holset apart to reclock the housings. Removing the exhaust housing was pretty hard but it came off. I need to do the following this week for the turbo. -Buy T3 spacer -Grind down original wastegate bracket (hits exhaust manifold BAD) -Fab a mount for my wastegate (wastegate is from my 81 turbo) and cut down the arm to work on the holset -Install longer studs on manifold -Modify oil drain tube to fit onto oil pan, its closer than I thought! -Possibly modify banjo fitting? On the banjo fitting I went to house of hose and bought a banjo bolt for the holset. The original banjo is 12mmx1.25 and the holsets is 12mmx1.5 They had one that worked for the holset so I bought it. Problem maybe is the holes on it are much smaller than the stock bolt. Both the hole going through the center and the one through the sides are both smaller. Ive been reading about some people running a restrictor for the holsets. Is this just to bump up the oil pressure and help reduce flow through the drain tube so it doesnt get backed up? I read somewhere about the importance of keeping the drain tube a smooth and easy route to the oil pain. Any opinions? I might take this one back and go check out a diesel shop in town. I didnt know about them but Im pretty sure theyd have the right bolt. Other things to do this week are get the db37 all soldered up. I think I need to go get a smaller solder gun since the solder cups on the connection are quite small... I need to go get another inline fuse for my wideband controller. Ive seen it wants a 2 amp fuse for MS power and than 5 amp for the wideband controller. Do you think it would be bad to just use a single 2 amp fuse (power for MS and wideband are from same wire) for both, or will the wideband continually blow it?

Do not keep replacing wires with heavier gauge wires. Thats not going to fix overcharging, its just going to fry other things, possibly multiple things. Its not likely since youve changed alternators but could it be your voltage regulator? AS mentioned might want to take the harness apart a little to see if there is a short nearby. Did you try measuring voltage at the battery and other spots on the car?