Challenger

Alright, a little update. I got the DB37 basically all wired up. Just need to check everything for the nth time.... Official To Do List: -Finish wiring for o2 sensor (Ground) -Remount coil pack and edis module. The plug wires should be fine but I want to give it a little more room for any movements of the engine -Purchase megasquirt -Adjust VR sensor to be closer to the trigger wheel -Check to see if EDIS is firing in limp mode -Tidy up wiring if everything checks out -Figure out an electric fan, any recommendations? Ill have to put it between the intercooler and radiator. The space between the two will be ducted off so I am not concerned with loosing flow.

Found this as well, matches up with my other pictures. Pretty confident with my edis wiring at this point.

Yes, I have the VR sensor wired up, just nothing on pip and saw. Ill look into cranking it and seeing if I get a spark.

Got in my magnecor wires. Sadly, I was not safe on the lengths and should have added an inch or so to a few of them. It isnt the end of the world though. I moved my coil pack to the side (an inch or so) and they look pretty good, a lot more slack. I will definitely want to revise how I mount the coil pack to make sure they have plently of slack. Another dumb decision, oh well, life goes on... I have thanksgiving break off starting tuesday night so Im gonna try to get the DB37 wiring cut down to where I want and possibly start crimping on the pins and putting it together.... well see if I get it all together. I went through and rewired my fuel pump and the power that will be going to my megasquirt. At this point I will have two switches. One for the fuel pump, the other provides the start signal to the original datsun EFI relay which sends power to my injectors, another relay turned on by the same switch sends power to megasquirt from the battery (best for noise suppression?). Car should be pretty theft proof. Went through and checked almost all of my wiring, it looks like everything is in order. Question about EDIS... I should be able to crank the car over and get spark assuming the EDIS is getting power? Doesnt it have a limp mode where it will run without any input?

Oh yeah, the ZX is awful for that. Again the turbo being spaced out changes a lot. I bet the 4 inch might have made issues with the steering rack. Besides, the direction it was pointing didnt really have any major obstructions so the large radius worked great.

Hmm, is it a crease or the contour of the dash?

What does minor port work entail?

What is the crease in the dash right between the gauges and glove box?

Yeah, thats all I bought. One 180 degree 3 inch, 6 inch bend radius sounds right. My downpipe was in some ways much simpler than others would be. I have my holset spaced out about 3 inches to the drivers side of the engine so the routing is much easier. I don't have the transmission in the way like the normal position of the turbo. Ill try to get some pictures of the downpipe installed.

I suppose Ill show what I ended up doing, this is the only picture I have on my phone... hopefully you can see the radius on it.

Oh yeah, didnt even think of that! Thanks. Issue is fixed. Start signal wire that goes to the EFI main relay is turned on anytime the ECU is. ECU off = injectors off.

So I was reading through the megamanual and noticed that they said.. "You must use a "main relay' that supplies both the injectors and your MegaSquirt® controller, as shown in the external wiring diagram above. When your MegaSquirt® controller shuts down, the injector driver states are 'indeterminate' and might allow current to flow through the injectors. Thus the injectors might stay open and flood the engine if the MegaSquirt® controller isn't powered but the injectors are powered." Right now the wiring is set up to have the power to the ECU come from the battery (to minimize noise) through a toggle switch and relay. The injectors are getting power from the stock harness and dropping resistors, I just ran the original grounding wires to the db37. Given what it says above I think there may be a problem in the event I shut down the car and fuel continues to flow... Has anyone had problems like this and what would be the reccomendations for changing wiring? Car is a 78 280z, I dont have the ECU yet, I am finishing the wiring first before I buy it. Thanks

Ill just make a quick update, havent done well on posting progress... Things left to do: Install spark plug wires when I get them. They should ship tomorrow from Magnecor. Got custom length ones made, $130... ouch Ordered the pins for my DB37 from digikey, had to order 100, that was their minimum. Oh well. Waiting for those. I need to do last checks on all the wiring since I havent gone over it since earlier this year. I need a refresh of what all I did. Double check that and then finish my DB37 connector. Paint my intercooler piping. Wrap the downpipe (not a big deal at this point BUY megasquirt. I am not sure when this will happen... Id love to have the money for this over winter break but we will see. I am hoping to get the wiring mostly finished over thanksgiving break.... its so close!

Who makes it? Is it the SDI spoiler that I can never find information on?

Whats the rear spoiler?

Check out vintage air. It will probably be the best choice if your starting from scratch. Im working on a car for my senior project that uses their evaporator unit. Very simple all in one unit. I would imagine it would be significantly better than the stock as well.

So you removed all of the HVAC parts from your car?

What do you mean by EF & EC - 88? I cant find it in the FSM for the 1983 280zx.

Welcome to HBZ! http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/forum/30-v8-z-forums/ Start reading. There is basically all of the information you will ever need to get your project started and finished. I have not done a v8 swap but have read a lot about them and seen threads detailing other builds. Good place to start is JTR. Jags that run. They have a complete manual and parts needed to mount a 350 small block chevy V8. Many of these swaps are made much easier by sticking to carbs rather than the fuel injection of a newer engine. What kind of experience do you and your dad have? Welding, fabrication, electrical? All of this will determine how you should approach this. Also need to consider the cost of this swap. Its easy to add up all the big stuff and think it will be possibly (engine, trans, carb, mounts, etc) Those already add up to a lot but the multitude of small things will kill your budget. Hoses, clamps, nuts and bolts, tubing, etc, etc) It all adds up really quick when you get going. Give us a little more information on the car as well. What kind of shape is the chassis in, is it structurally sound? Is the suspension original or going to be replaced? Brakes? The car has to work together and may not be safe or nearly as fun without other things being addressed. Good luck!

Anyone done it? Im looking at making my own cutout and Im gonna try to use a TB. Two options are just using a cable in the cabin or some sort of servo motor with a switch/button. Could you possibly use MS to open the cut out given certain driving conditions? Maybe manifold pressure and throttle position? Thanks!

Got everything I need. DIYautotune was able to sell me just the pin type connection!

Do they make mufflers for 1.5 inch pipe? haha

Yeah, Ill be notching it however I do it, Im just curious about the angle. It wont be to hard to make it come in smoother so Ill be doing that, but I am still curious how bad it is to have it at 90....