Challenger

Alright, just emailed DIYautotune about getting my MS2 V3 ordered! This coming week is finals week so Ill hopefully by next week Ill have the computer in hand where I can start checking sensors and such....

Alright, I pulled off my vinyl to see what was underneath. The front was pretty nice but the top was awful. Im looking at filling in the cracks with RTV sealant, something nice and flexible. Im not sure what Ill do to the rest of the "burnt" looking foam since its really flakey. Im gonna look into how hard it would be to vaccum mold a piece of vinyl onto the foam core. I was thinking of fiberglassing in the underside of the dash but at this point that might be a bad idea because then it wouldnt be able to stretch if the dash is twisted. Anyone know where to get a big sheet of vinyl? Heres one for $60..

It's not the black and white. Of course most of us would never do something to our car to make it look cool that took a second of your quarter mile time, but what about half a second, or a tenth? You going to get a different set of wheels that you might not like just cause they are slightly lighter and you couldn't imagine making your car look cooler but be slower? It's a balance, do both.

http://www.justdashes.com/dash_resto.html http://www.justdashes.com/Products.htm

So this was originally going to be a thread about whether anyone had looked into foam dash panels being made but then I did some research and found some. Anyone seen these before or used them? If I understand this correctly what they make is just the foam and vinyl that attaches to the dash framing itself? Im going to send them (see below) an email.

Any update to this? Is everyones still cracking? Ill look into the screws to see about removing a few. Seems like allowing it to expand and contract would be great. I still have my dash out and I couldnt stand the way the dash cap looked. Im gonna look at doing something like this on mine. I wonder how hard it is to cover these with some sort of fabric after filling the cracks...

I pulled my turbo engine out of my ZX spring of 2010 and it has since been sitting in my Z. When I had it on the engine stand I did prime the oil pump but there hasnt been any oil sprayed on the cylinder walls for awhile. I had been cranking over my car some checking wiring and spark for EDIS and I started to think it may be bad on the cylinder walls if the oil has drained off. No fuel has been sprayed in the engine since I pulled it so that helps. Whats everyones opinion on this, does it hurt? I imagine just squirting some oil into the cylinders through the spark plugs probably wont get much on the walls, but its worth a shot. It would just be hard with the dished pistons, it would just pool up rather than drain. The engine is turning and cranking over smoothly. Does metal hold the oil well enough to not worry about it?

Had the VR sensor wired backwards so I swapped the wires and got spark! It looked like pretty good spark and seemed to be timed correctly for cranking rpm. (a spark every second or less) I am pretty excited, a good little boost for this week. This is dead week and then finals next week so I shouldnt be working on the car but I might do a couple things here and there.

Wooo! Switched the wires and cranked it, sure enough, got a spark every second or so which makes sense for about 200 rpm. Thanks for the help!

Yeah I have read through your thread several times... Does not make me feel good. Haha. I'll try switching it first, if it still doesnt work then it will be Time to grab a second edis module.

Double post...

Yeah the sensor is in the right spot. By 5 away I wasn't counting the missing tooth. It is in fact 60 degrees away from the missing tooth. I'll flip the wires and see what happens.

Hey guys, I went to see if I could get the EDIS to fire in limp mode.... complete failure. I have wired it according to this... minus the capacitor. Ill be adding that at some point, shouldnt make a difference at this point. http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b81/BRAAPZ/EDIS/EDIS_6_MS.jpg Ive got 12V power in run and crank on pin 8 as shown. Same power goes to the coil pack as shown below. Both have been verified. http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/images/ign6-pinout.gif I have my VR sensor wired up with the sensor being 5 teeth away from the the missing one (60 degrees) at cylinder 1 top dead center. Everything seemed to be in order but I didnt see a spark. Im not really sure I have my VR sensor close enough to the trigger wheel, I've heard 40 thousands is a good distance, I bet mines closer to 80-100... Would I still be getting any sort of voltage signal from that? I went ahead and threw my multimeter on the VR sensor to see if I could pick up a voltage but it stayed at 0. Obviously at 200 rpm or so, the teeth are going by really fast and I understand my multimeter isnt an oscilloscope... but is there anyway to see any sort of voltage change from the sensor with a multimeter? Any other ways to check it, LED light maybe? Am I right that with 12V power to the coil pack and edis module, and VR sensor input hooked up it should be sparking? Also, I have the DB37 wired up but nothing is plugged into it, I dont have my megasquirt yet. Any tips? Thanks

Finished the WBO2 ground. Got my fuel pump wiring, relay and switch working and bundled up how Id like. Still waiting on some cash flow to get my megasquirt.... Im gonna be selling a couple guns this coming weekend hopefully to fund the datsun. I really have too many guns, and I would much rather drive my car! haha. Ive been looking at my intercooler piping and wondering about how I will bead the ends. I really want to get a good seal with the hose clamps so a bead will be neccesary. The piping is 16 gauge so Its pretty thick... I remember seeing a post somewhere online about using a vise grips that was modified with some sort of die. I imagine with a torch and some pressure I can get some kind of bead on there.

Ill be buying it hopefully this winter pre-built. Ive checked everything pretty thoroughly, and stuff has 12V where and when it needs to. I've checked grounds for everything, everything seems to be ready. Im kind of concerned that I may have hooked something up to where it could get to much current... I understand ohms law, parallel/series, current/voltage laws so maybe I am just over thinking it.... Related question, I will not be using the fuel pump relay output from megasquirt, I have my own system wired up separately, will not having a pin on this output be problem?

I assume that would mean unplugging the edis module and coil in my case? Yeah I would love to have it hooked up with all the sensors functioning before I get to in depth.

What kind of gauges? Looks awesome.

What are the best precautions to take when first hooking up your MS to your wiring harness? Of course I have the MS fused with the specified fuse, but are there any additional things to do to be as safe as possible on first starting out? What other ways are there to destroy the megasquirt unit or any of its internal components? Ive tried to follow the wiring diagrams Ive found, and I am pretty condfident about what I have done but, I dont want to buy more than one megasquirt ECU... haha Thanks

Hmm, I dont recall that on my car before, but I havent had it together for so long so I probably wouldnt. I suppose a cable directly to the firewall from the starter and than a cable directly from the negative terminal to the floor in the hatch will do the trick?

Thats awesome! Headers look great. Did you just order that box of little bends? I cant imagine trying to plan out a manifold and then pick the bends... Keep up the good work, Im getting jealous... I want to start my car! haha.

Double post.

With stock electronics the computer wont know that you've increased the injector size and you'll be adding more fuel at every running condition not just where you are trying to make power.

So I won't be home for awhile and started thinking about something that will bother me until I get home. I relocated my battery to the hatch and ran cables from the hatch to the engine bay. They went to the starter and block as well as the other wires that send power into the car. It started making me think, I have the engine block grounded and my engine electronics are grounded there, but where did the original 280z get its chassis ground? The chassis grounds are required for a lot of components. I remember I tried to put everything back to where it was when I relocated the battery but maybe I missed something. My car isn't anywhere near where I can test lights or other stuff so I'm not sure... I'll probably still add another ground to the hatch area to help the lights and components at the back of the car that are grounded. Thanks

If all other factors are the same, you have the same engine...

Throw whatever cylinder head you want on there... grind down the marking (p90, n47, etc) and somehow put one on that looks like the original. haha Sure glad I live in the US, sure sounds like its hard to build an old fast car. Good luck.