Mack

I can vouch for the DIY kit. I ordered a v3.0 and put it together, it was excellent. very straight forward. as long as you are good with a soldering iron, you are good to go.

not necessarily run away screaming, just realize that its probably not going to make the horsepower you are thinking it will unless it had a BC gerolomay ported head and a race camshaft on it. as well as balanced the hell out of everything in the rotating assembly, running superlight forged pistons and all that crap. reason I was looking at doing it is I need an 89mm bore, and I wanted a semi high RPM motor.... plus Im too cheap to source an LD28 crank and do all the necessary parts. I already have an L24 rotating assembly and an N42 block with a trashed crank. If you wanted to do just to be different, go ahead. just dont get pissed when the guy with the 3.1L kicks your *** on the street.

sorry, I should have clarified on the "ideal r/s" statement. for a street motor, that is. I would hate to even think what F1 motors are running for a r/s. and yes, in my original post I mentioned the L24 being rated at the crank. I was just thinking this engine would be a good alternative to a stock rebuild, if someone wanted to try a little experiment and not be out that much cash if it sucked. plus, you could always re-hone the bores and build a traditional L31 with the block and rods (albeit slightly modified)! It would have the same TQ as a regular old L28 (big bores make big torque as well as big strokes), but it would rev like an L24. Ive always found the L24 to be more "rev happy" than the L28s, carbed or injected for either motor. oh and Im sure some crappy cast toyota pistons would give out long before you would find the rev limits on the L24 cranks! of course, one could use these pistons for rebuilding an L28, get the rods honed out for the bigger pins and bore the block, skip the LD crank, use the stock rods and crank and end up with a 3.0L as well.

I too have considered going this route. Not quite the way you are going about it and not quite for the same reasons.... I was thinking of an L24 bottom end with rods to match and toyota 20R pistons. they have a 38.4mm pin height, a dome on top and the pin is .8665 offest. pretty close to our venerable L series and they come stock in an 88.5mm bore. punched to 89mm, with .5mm overbore pistons with the L24 crank and RODS, you would have 2751cc's for about the cost of a stock rebuild. the key factor here is the 1.8 rod/stroke ratio (ideal is said to be 1.75:1). something most all Lseries 6 cylinder motors lack (save for the L24, in stock form!) dont know what if any performance would be gained, but this engine would rev like an L24, but with the torque of an L28. I seem to recall that someone stated in an earlier thread, the highest HP NA Lseries engine on record was an L24 built by sunbelt, with 357 at the crank. since HP is a function of torque AND rpm, and the L24 can rev higher (rod/stroke ratio combined with shorter stroke) I guess its possible. Odd that it would beat out a 3.2L with almost 50 cu/in on it. just the ravings of a mad man...

hey, xtrmgt when I get back to the cities in late may, I should have my ported head and custom ITB intake installed. along with megasquirt of course. I could probably take you for a ride. There is a member on here, 1 fast Z, he ports heads, and thats what Im getting on my car. my intake, I custom built myself and I can build another one if need be. hopefully, Ill have pics early next week.

well, if you are planning forced induction of ANY kind, I would suggest forged pistons and a decent set of rings. ont worry about overboring or stroking it, its a lot cheaper to turn up the boost a few PSI than it is to build a stroker motor. next, you'll want a custom intake and a ported head, both of which I know where/who to obtain one from. from there on out, its anyones guess.

you need to decide what you want to do with the car. Do you want turbo power,m NA power, how much money are you willing to spend? you can bore it out, stroke it, do all sorts f crazy stuff ot it. ported heads, custom intakes, LOTS of stuff. what are your goals? p.s. I live in minneapolis, but am in phoenix for a freinds wedding and stuff for the next few weeks. Id like to take a look at it when I get back, if that would be o.k.

I would say the GTR would kick your ***. those things are monsters. especially on launch. plus, there is no telling iif he is running bumped up boost or something like that. it could be making double the factory rated 280HP and you wouldnt be able to tell by looking at it. I do have a few 280ZXT exhaust manifolds if you are looking for one. I have family in Fargo, ND so I am close to the border, lol!

Ill still toss in my vote for a MN47. If sompression ratio is a problem, UNshroud the valves and take a little out of the cahmber to make it bigger. I would think that would be a lot less hassle than shaving, shimming and all that garbage. With a felpro gasket (.8mm) and flat toips, you will be under your perfect .035" required for optimum quench. while its true the MN47 does have small intake valves, I have personally made them flow as well as a regular P79 or P90 valve and intake port. its not that hard. and as an added bonus, with the smaller intake, you get lotso velocity. torque city.

your best bet is a turbo motor. buuuut, it could be done with megasquirt, a lonewolf manifold, a header, 2.5" exhaust and some more compression. amybe a regrind on your camshaft. Id probably figure on $1500, if you do all the actual WORK yourself.

for an L26, i wouuld say the best head to swap on would be an MN47, for the simple fact that it has a large exhaust and a small intake, which is what you will want with the L26's smaller bore. If you un-shrouded the valves a bit, you could get the compression down to what SOME people deem "livable" especially in an L26. I cant remember, does an L26 have dished pistons or flat tops.... its been a while since Ive seen an L26.

no. the VG33/30E® and the VG30DE(TT) motors are completely different. the DE's use coil on plug and have a variable intake cam, as well as a bunch of other things that are completely different from the E motors. I would talk to a member here named Bernard. he has been re-mapping Z31 ECUs for quite some time now. bigger, injectors, fdifferent fuel curve, different ignition curve, whatever you want. talk to him.

true. there is no way of telling what optimum ignition timing for any set up is unless you have access to a dyno. 1 question tho, I always thought the SSS heads were peanut/kidney bean shaped?

there is the flip side of the coin to take into account as well guys... a smaller chamber with a proper shape (as in a heart shape cough *MN47* cough) would be considered a fast burn head. with a fast burn head you dont need as much spark advance, and you can actually lose HP by too much advance.

did you duilt it for triggering off of the negative side of the coil? hall/optical/points is just the input, you still have to build it to handle the negative side of the coil. thats seperate from all of the other options.

when you built it, or had yoru megasquirt built, did they build it to use the - side of the coil to fire off of? It has to be chosen as an option during the building process. its on THIS page, step 50, part B.

on that head, probably about 10.5. Its not exactly a "high quench" or a "fast burn" design. I just got megasquirt and am goingto be putting it on my 11.7:1 flat top motor with an MN47 head on it. Ill let you know how it goes. I think if I can tune it decently (as in a 13:1 AFR across the board under WOT) I dont think it will ping much if at all.

yes, of course! the stock set-up uses a fusable link. thats what I would be using.

I got my 3.0 board built and tested. Im going to upload the MS&M_E code soon. I built the board with all options, except triggering off of the - side of the coil. I built the jumpers to use the OPTO input and also to allow coil control with the VB921. I am going to be using a spare, stock 1982 EFI harness and just clip the ECU connector off and solder the proper wires to the DB37 connector. I plan on using the method found HERE to wire it up to a spare 280ZXT distributor I have laying about and run igntion that way. now, since Im not using an AFM anymore, I have a few extra wires I can use for the ignition stuff. my question lies with the injectors, however... the stock system has 12+ running to the injectors all the time, through a fusable link. can i just leave them powered all the time and use the stock EFI relay to provide power to ONLY the megasquirt, seeing as how the MS unit just grounds the injectors to fire them?? I dont see a reason why this wouldnt work, but what I dont know about megasquirt Im sure could fill a room. also, the fuel pump relay on my 1980 280ZX seems to be controlled by the ignition switch and has nothing to do with the EFI brain or harness. can i just leave it like that?

I need a pinout for an L28E ECU. one for an '80 manul trans, non federal car (it doesnt have an EGR, and another for an '82 non turbo manual car. I searched a few sites (here, Zcar and google) and couldnt come up with anything......

depends on whats done to it. A head stright from the junkyard, pulled. probably anywhere from $150 to $200. cleaned up with a valve job, etc. closer to $300. ported and polished... who knows, depends on the work. heads with cams at most U-Pull-it junkyards run about $85 after taxes, core and everything. so, with the PITA it is to pull a head, I figure about $150 is fair.

I just got my roadster running and thought the 1600 was quite aneamic, so I was thinking about engine swaps.... how much does a ZD30DDT weigh, in comparison to say... a KA24DE? I know I know, a deisel in a sports car, but it has probably 2x the HP that the R16 put out originally (150HP net vs. 96hp gross) and gobs of torque. plus, think of the GAS MILEAGE!!! not to mention roughly 250lbs/ft of torque. that would make me smile in a 2000lbs car.

Ill toss in my 2 cents..... being one of the only members on here running an MN47 on a flat top block and daily driving the piss out of it. My set-up does detonate. I plan on curing that soon tho. I am getting megasquirt. I feel that my detonation is due to the increased flow capacity of my engine coupled to the fact that the stock EFI just plain sucks. The stock EFI (on an NA car) goes into a linear mode at about 3500rpms at which point the "flapper door" on the AFM is wide open and no longer actually measuring the air coming into the engine, and the computer just geusses how much fuel to inject based on engine RPM. while this is all fine and dandy for a stock car, it sucks wehn you ahve modified yours. Im running about 3.5 points over stock compression for my car (I have an 80, which has 8.3:1 compression, and Im running 11.7:1) I have mildly ported my head, intake manifold, and throttle body as well as a high flow intake. plus a bit of a bump in the cam dept, not a lot, but every littel bit helps (or in this case, hurts) so, its safe to say theat my engine flows a bit more than a stock head. which exacerbates teh problem. the original EFi was set up for economy and emissions, NOT performance. With an MN47 on flat tops, with a lumpy cam and a set of 45mm webers, I *think* it would run FINE. You'lll have PLENTY of gas and air to feed that engine (I did see a stock EFI dyno chart and the air to fuel ratio was hovering around mid 14's:1, not good for performance). I'll know for sure in a few weeks or so once megasquirt shows up and I can tune it to run a proper 13:1 air/fuel ratio under WOT.

not to nit pick here, but the stock ZXT set-up is AFM. its got the flapper door. the MAF's are hot wire types and hove no flapper door. as a side note, I see megasquirt in your near future..... or at the very least, a conversion to the 300ZXT ECU and accompanying MAF.

Nice pics, reminds me of this thread. P90 head porting realizations. now that we have a look at how thick the walls are, AND a cross ssectional of the length of the runner, now we can get some real porting done .......