Mack

I dont know about L series specific 4wd transmissions, but I would assume that you could MODIFY one out of a Z engine series (8 spark plugs) powered early to late 80s 4wd trucks. I would think it would be as easy as putting on an L-series transmissions, just like the 240SX trans swap is done. L and Z series 4 cylinder motors are basically the same block, except that the Z seires isnt canted to the pasengers side of the car as much as the L.

LOL, you can hijack this thread all you want as long as you can get me a build sheet for the pistons, or an order number through JE perhaps?? please? sounds like you are going to have a bit of a screamer on your hands!

WOWW!!!!! thanks Phred@! thats what I was looking for!! I had heard of oil rings going into the pin bore! sounds like thats what I need!! I have also heard of the japanese building stroker motors with FJ20ET rods and honda XR500 pistons. gives almost a 1.7 r/s ratio. which, fo rthe stroker is not too shabby! EDIT> you have almost exactly what I am shooting for! a 140mm rod with the LD28 crank! btw, teh LD28 rods are 140MM, I dont know WHY people just throw them away...... nice and heavy duty.

probably not. whats the stock L20A bore? really small, I know that. I dont think the cylinder walls are thick enough to accomidate an L28 sized bore and DEFINATELY not 3.1L stroker specs. I guess it is possible if you want to have cylinder liners installed, but that would cost a lot. L28s are a dime a dozen over here in the U.S.

yes I see your point and all that.... for sure. I did however, find out that people are turboing the D17 honda 4 cylinders and they are getting a current max of 396whp. why is this important? well, the D17 has a 27mm compression height, which is right in line with what mine will need. granted they get forgies for 396whp and custom manifolds, but if they can hold 100whp/slug on a smaller bore (81.5mm), a bigger bore should be able to do 100whp/slug no problem. Im trying to get the piston specs from a D17 builder at the moment, Ill post them up when I get them.

alright, finally going to take the 3.1L leap. Ive got a whole deisel block in my garage, and I want to use the LD rods with it as I dont have any L24 rods. yes, I know it probably wont be noticable and all that garbage, but, its what I have and if Im getting custom pistons, why not? o.k. so, the pin height on these pistons will need to be about 26.6mm, which is a bit on the short side, I realize. the pin will be 22mm. So, it will have to be a tight ring stack and i want to build this motor for boost. contradiction in terms, I know what are my options?

uhm, yeah. considering about 1/4 of the people here have megasquirt (myslef included) its pretty damn tried and tested.

cleanest engine bay EvAr.

I think those tests (on the webpage) were done with no intake. when 1 fast Z and I did similar tests, we got very similar numbers (again, no intake). and I beleive the reason why the intake is the restriction on the KAs is because of the long runners and small plenum. the runners themselves are 50mm, which is the size of a stock L28E throttlebody!!! I will be going with 50MM ITBS personally and a big plenum on the end of them, very similar to the RB26DETTs. I plan to just get it up and running first, then start messing around with cams and the like. Ive got a guy that has made 100+ custom VW turbo kits (intercoolers, manifolds, everything) and he will be doing my intake welding and probably build me a simple log manifold for a big single. I may even just attach a pipe to the manifold and run it NA for a bit to see what Im dealing with, before I add boost.

there is no rocker ratio. KA heads are shim-on-buckets. and the cam doesnt have to be as big because of the F-L-O-W. you really dont gain much in terms of CFM going from say, .400" to .500" lift. one guy only picked up about 5cfm jumping that last .100". here is a page with flow numbers.... KA24DE head flow #s

oh, for sure!! although to get it up and running, the cams we (or I) will be using are about the same as a stock KA cam, with a little less lift. I may contact a cam re-grinding place, as there are a few out there that specialize in KA cams, and see what a re-grind for about .040" more lift and about 256 to 264ish duration. Im shooting for a t3/tO4e hybrid with a 60 trim compressor wheel. thats not set in stone, and I may even be looking at a holset. suggestions are welcome! Im probably going to be running some 550cc injectors with megasquirt.

Or the old jeep fire-ball OHC inline 6. that head has siamesed intake ports as well. now, the KA head COULD be called siamesed as the intake and exhaust are split halfway down as well. but, it still flows one HELLUVA lot better than about 99.9999% of L series heads out there. KA stock intake flows at 25" of water are about 250cfm. with a cutom intake and MILD porting one guy got 260cfm, with the intake attached. not too shabby. as far as forced induction, look at it this way, with stock cams (240* intake, 248* exhaust and about .390" of lift) there are LOTS of turbo set-ups making right around the 300rwhp mark on 12PSI from a crappy volvo junkyard turbo. and thats a 2.4L 4 cylinder. think of what a head like that will do on a 3.1L 6.

you know, for $600 I could adapt your stock harness and MAKE megasquirt plug and play for your car, with a pretty decent base map. That would be fuel only tho, becayse you dont have a turbo dist. to run spark. Also, you would have to switch to a 60MM 240SX TB with accompanying TPS sensor, other than that, it would be a plug and play, bolt in affair. and you could DITCH the stock AFM.

thats the plan, anyway. It is tought to find a quality machine shop with such precision though!! I did finally find a place that does prototype work for 3M up here in minneapolis, and I got that hookup through a fellow ZOOM (Z-car Owners Of Minnesota) member!!!! Mine will end up with ITBS and a big single tho. something along the lines of T3/T04e or a holset. havent decided that part yet. Im kind of jealous tho, Bryan has a smidge better cams than me.

no aftermarket heads yet.

You are in phoenix?? Run yourself down to Ecology or U pull it on broadway and get an L28 engine for $50 short block. then pull a maxima N47 head for $39, and start bolting ♥♥♥♥ together.

L engine is fooked. combustion chamber size on the MN47 ids about 39 to 39.5cc. then use a felpro. supposed to be .8mm instead of standard 1.0mm. works out to be a nice compression ratio.

go megasquirt, much better and only marginally more expensive.

here ya go.... here is a list for prettymuch all common factory produced L6 cams. CAMS many thanks to blue. as you can see, the L26 "C" is 256degrees. I have one on my car. I did a bunch of upgrades at once, so I cant tell you hoew much of a diff it makes. DEF going reground this winter tho.

ture that. most peopel let sleeping dogs lie, but the fued between 1 fast Z and bubbles has spanned a couple of forums and i dont know why. this is a tech forum. we should be talking about tech. most of the time we do talk about tech. Im guessing this thread may make it to the trash box or whatever forum they have thwere they put in all the crap threads. I have been able to pinpoint the exact instance where this thread went into the crapper. HERE. back on track.... if you were going to use GIXXER TBs, and split them up, you could just get a flange made and use some aluminum 2" ID pipes as runners. you could even go ghetto like the honda kids and use rubber pipe couplers!! could probably have this up and running in a few days. only problem would be linkage. and the 2 middle cylinders because they have 2 exhaust ports inbetween them. still make for some weird ass runners.

THATS ridiculious! in a good way! Ive heard 510 guys bitching that you can get a series 1 240Z to weigh less than a 510 2 door, so it ispossible to strip one down to 2000lbs, I would imagine. that run would have to be on race gas, obviously. I bet that thing sounded mean as hell.

seems to me this forum has gone down the crapper since the arrival of a certain someone.

its not as bad as you'd think. took me 8hrs to build the MS3.0pcb, another 4 hrs to modify a stock wiring harness, to make it plug and play. then it took a day to install (I had to swap out dizzys and it took a few tries to get it phased in correctly) took maybe 2 or 3 days to get it running driveable then the rest has been tuning. If Ihad done fuel only instead of jumping in with both feet and going for fuel AND spark, it would have taken half the time.

lt1will620, you need to remove your lips from bubbles ass. and any other body parts that happen to be stuck there. I smell a ban coming. 1 fast Zs car is not an "all out race motor" it runs on pump gas for crying out loud. however, Ive seen some "all out race" L series motors and they would be lucky to be making the HP his is. SERIOUSLY. If you took 1 fast Zs motor and put it in a series 1 240Z, it would be good for low low 12s to high 11s. power to weight ratio. Now, knocking a full second off of a high 13 pass (like say, to get into a high 12 sec pass) takes a LOT more Hp then the gain to go from high 14s to high 13s. you guys think that you are right (2 of you) and the rest of this board is wrong? give me a break. most of these people on this board have forgotten more info about the L engine that you will EVER EVEN KNOW. IF you are building an SCCA car, which is not really a professional racing body per se, an intake such as 1 fast Zs or the intake BRAAP posted would work great. infact, I doubt you could build an L series engine that would be limited by either of these intakes. so, what it all boils down to is put up or shut up. build an intake, build a 3.1l and show us some slips.

this is why no one likes you bubbles. you dont know what you are talking about, yet you still come off as cocky. you have ONE freaking slip that shows a 14.2@108, the rest are 13.9's @ 102 to 103. Im willing to guess that one slip at 108 was a fluke of some sort seeing as how you have only ONE. let see what this motor does in YOUR car. Im guessing mid13s at best. and dont give any of these lame ass excuses. "oh, I have crappy tires" "oh. I dont know how to shift" yadda yadda yadda. Norm runs 12.8s on KUMHO 205 14s, that blows that excuse out of the water, what else do you have? sorry to thread jack, but theres only so much I can take. MAKE A RUN ON STREET GAS, then post your slip. also, if your car really does weigh 2500lbs, 200lbs makes a BIG difference. so, for 1 fast Z to knock a full second off of your time in a car that wieghs 200lbs MORE, that IS an acomplishment, all on pump gas, mind you.