Mack

polished on the intake side would hurt flow. If you polish it ot a mirrior finish, it hurts it. this was stolen from some site....

and that would hurt the flow. at least on the intake side. and not to be a jerk, but 196cfm@.600" lift with 28in of vacuum on the intake?? I got 210 out of an N47 screwing around at 1 fast Zs shop, with the same numbers. merely an observation.

naw, piston skirts get scuffed all the time. infact,. piston skirts can actually break clean off. perhaps the peak pressures over more time might have something to do with it. NIssan does tend to over-engineer things.

Im going out on a limb here, and Im just guessing - not trying to be a dick- but I would guess that in a turbocharged engine with high boost pressures the increased cylinder pressures may cause the pistons to rock more or with a bit greater force, increasing the pressure the skirt puts on the bore.

higher cylinder pressures.

or you can get a 280ZXT complete engine and swap it in using your stock mounts, driveshaft and all that crap. I dont think the JTR kit comes with all necessary stuff to make it actually DRIVE, does it?

yeah, there is something you are missing..... the L engine calculator is kind of fubar-ed. running your numbers, I get a compression ratio of 10.8. get a cam with more duration or it will probably ping. Im running a MN47 with 39cc combustion chambers and MUCH better quench than even a shaved N42. It pinged, with a 256* cam and the stock fuel system. I went megasquirt and I havent looked back.

unless you were to have the cold sides upgraded to a T28 size and go with twins, then the chruysler option woul be viable. Another option to look into would be to have the parts ceramic coated, that might help with teh longevity.

you cant drive fast in 4lo. 4 hi tho is alright for higwhay cruising as far as Im concerned. Ive got a 1989 mazda 323 GTX (for sale if anyone cares) thats 4wd and it drives on the highway just fine.

yah, Id be interested oin a set of 16x8s depending on price of course. probably +10 offset?

I have contemplated an AWD Z on and off over the years. Im thinking of aquiring the parts to make it work after I get my DOHC head done. I guess AWD would be a bit of a mis-nomer, 4WD is what it would be. Get one of the seperate transfer cases off of an early 80s 4wd nissan truck (cant remember what years exactly, but soe of them came with a seperate transfer case), then make a custom front crossmember that would include a diff mount and allow the axels to pass through to each front hub. I think youd have to notch the frame rails and re-strengthen the area at the bottom of the strut towers to get some room for suspension travvel and front axels, and the floor pan might be a bit of a hassle to clear the transfer case and driveshaft, but it sounds do-able.

the rods will be your limitation. people are pushing about 200rwhp out of the ETs. head on over to club-s12.org and poke around there a bit. popular swap is to put all the turbo junk on a 2.0L block. it is a bolt on. buuuut, if you can find a CA18DE(came in some pulsars), you can grab the rods out of it and they are a bolt on peice to the CA18ET crank.

and where would I geta poly coated bearign? the same places that coat piston tops and skirts? just get soem stock nissan OEM bearings and go that route? sounds like a viable options!

thats what I was thinking. there was a guy I found running one on an SVO mustang (2.3L 4 cylinder) and he was getting 20PSI by 3000rpm. the turbo model number is GT3782VA. here is a page with the pics. VNT pics and here is the page where he describes the driving impressions... VNT SVO mustang

I understand that newer turbo deisels come with some decent sized VATN turbos, with megasquirts boost control, this is a very intriguing possibility. anyone know which turbo deisels they come on? how much HP they would be good for? all tht good stuff. any info would be appreciated! thanks!

anyone ever used these? I searched and found a few threads that mentioned them or wanting to use them, but no one ever gave a review? Im building a 3.1L finally and am wondering about these bearings, as they sound slick. any other suggestions besides the tried and true federal mogul or nissan OEM? thank!

the LD28 block is a deisel variant of the L28. it had a smaller bore at 84.5, but a largetr stroke and a taller block with a crank center line to deck height of 227.5mm compared to the L28 deck height of 207.9. SO, you oculd use soem longer rods and get a better rod/stroke ratio.

interesting concept defrag. If you get bored at work again, take an LD28 block and liner it, then do the same thing. you can actually get a decent rod/stroke ratio out of the damn thing. oh, If you did this with a linered LD28 block and put together a short block, Id trade you a DOHC head for it, lol!

yeah, the volvo thing is kind of common, not really tho. there is actually a guy here in MN that is doing it! he has it running nad its boosted as well. He has a Merkur XR4ti. I havent seen it in person, but he has shown up to a few meets that I couldnt get to with it and driving it.

I drove from Phoenix to LA to pick uip my free 280ZX. I borrowed a freinds truck and rented a u-haul car dolly. total tip cost me about $250. not too shabby.

heavy heavy heavy. and not much aftermarket. kind of like the jeep I6. great for trucks, bad for sports-cars. oh, and Im pretty sure the 300 never came in 'stangs. only the 280CI and 170CI I6s ever made thoer ways into a mustang.

honestly, what are the odds on that happening?!?! glad to hear it is in the process of working out o.k.

DAYUM! you still have a stock cam!?!? swap out the cam and get a tripple throttle body set-up for it and go megasquirt. you an make it pass smog. 1 fast Zs car passes smog. he lives in AZ tho. only other option I can forsee is having a custom intake manifold made that looks stock, but with 40mm runners and a 60MM tb. then, run a megasquirt kit INSIDE the original ECU case and use a dummy AFM when you smog.

YES! it is ALWAYS worth it to get a rust free (or at least the most rust free one you can find) Z than it is to try and repair rust. Even if you had it shipped, youd still come out wayyyyyy ahead. shipping would run anywhere from $500 to $1000, and for $4000, you could find a very nice Z in CA or AZ.

no kidding. the reason a ceiling fan reverses flow is because its spinning the other direction, not because you flipped it around.