Trevor

Depends on the year of the Mustang. '64 to '73 6 cyls Fords are the same as Datsun 4 x 4.5"

Trivia time. Mr. Lamborghini was a tractor manufacturer, who perhaps abused his Ferraris, and once told Mr. Enzo that his transmissions were too weak. The 1st mass-produced Lamborghinis like the 400 and Miura has a synchronized reverse! I wonder if it was due to the way Mr. Lamborghini liked to drive? Or is it really practical in a performance road car?

Here's a question for your parts-hoarding friend: Has he ever seen adaptor "shims" that allow you to put a 289-302 Intake manifold on a 351W? I have a photo in the Ford Small Block parts interchange book, but no manufacturer or part # info.... In case you are wondering why such a thing is needed, I "need" to put a 4x2 weber "carb" 289 intake on a stroked 351W (to 426!!). I would settle for a 3x2 or 2x4 351W intake, ask your friend if they exist. Can't find them either.

I like those 'Vette / Ferrari-inspired tail lights too. Seems to match the lines of the car as the flares make it "rounder".

Except the Camaro / Vette / Datsun / JTR slave cyl "pushes" and a cable "pulls" The clutch arm travel distance is probably the same. I guess it depends on the position of the fulcrum inside the bellhousing, distance from the crank centerline....(yikes more geometry. My Brain hurts!) That hydraulic T/O bearing is sounding better all the time.

What bellhousing bolt pattern does the 400/351M have?.... I'm guessing big-block?

Time to crack open the geometry book. Hydraulics is moving a constant volume of liquid. Volume of a cylinder.....anyone?....Bueller? V = pi x r^2 x h Make sure the Master cyl pushrod is making the most of it's stroke (if the rod is too long it is starting at the bottom). You probably can't increase it. In order to increase the slave cyl stoke, you might need a larger radius master cyl. or a smaller radius(r in formula) slave cyl.

I think they look like boat trailer lights from Wal-Mart.

I have seen an adaptor made for a regular T-10 bellhousing on a race car. It places the Slave cylinder (ironically from a Datsun) in the right position to push the lever arm. It was made from a pretty beefy section of angle iron, probably 4 x 4 x 3/8" and bolted on by the bellhousing bolts. I'll try to find a pic. The bad part was the location of the slave cyl. was farther forward, beside the engine block AIR, not alongside the bellhousing. I would be concerend with the slave cyl being so close to (or interfering with) the exhaust manifold and steering column in a Z. email me at kbella@earthlink.net if you want the picture.

Guyz, This issue is addressed in the JTR manual. Stealth offers 2 flange adaptors. One for 240-280Z and one for 280ZX. It's not a R200 vs R180 thing. Its a 70-78 vs. 79-83 thing.

I just read that un-even brake rotor wear and front end bushings can be work out prematurely by bad T-C rod bushings. Sometimes problems have to be traced back to the original source.

Will the '85 - '85 300ZX 4-bolt hub fit the 70-78 spindle?

Don't cut that console! You can "adjust" the position of a side-mounted shifter on a Muncie / Saginaw / T-10 / Ford Toploader with a few fabricated pieces like this: Most likely you will be moving it backwards on the tailshaft to fit the trans hump hole in a Z body. Drill and tap a 1/4" steel plate to go between the trans and the shifter, visualise something like the JTR motor mount offset plate. The plate bolts to the trans tailshaft via 3 thru holes, and the (Hurst)shifter bolts to the plate into 3 threaded holes. The space between 2 sets of holes is the distance you need to move the shifter back. The linkage rods on a Hurst shiter have 3/8" threaded ends. You can extend the lengths of the linkage rods with 4 long bolts, heads cut off, or sections of all-threaded rod. Attaching the extensions (bolts) to the shifter rods with a barrel nut and a pair of jam nuts. Source: Casa DePot. I see this work every weekend in the short track race cars, and have never seen one break. The rod joints are in tension and compression in a straight line, it's not likely to bend either. When they build a car with tube chassis, Chevy engine, Jerico (Ford Toploader bolt pattern!) 4 speed, Pontiac Grand Prix body, they get pretty creative mixing and matching parts to fit. Aside: Did you know 67-73 Chevy Camaros used the Ford 3.03 (v8) 3-speed toploader trans? The stock Chevy bellhousing also accepts the Ford-patterned 4 speed transmission. Wish swapping T-5s was this easy.

Saw this article in a VW sandbuggy site: http://extremebuggies.com/pitlane/00001j.asp Recommending Datsun parts, I ASSume 280ZXT CVJ, to upgrade when the axle shalfshafts are forced into extreme angles. Liked this part: "About the Datsun cv-joint- The factory joint is better than ANYTHING you can buy. Even used, the factory joint will last FAR longer. " Grain of salt: Stock VW aircooled 4 is what 40HP?

Hey Dale I hear transplanting other engines into Jag bodies is a popular swap.... I've got this extra L-280 when you're done with the donor car........

Mike, Is that a '65 or '66 Mustang in the driveway? I have a '66. People often ask if I am the original owner. Either I look pretty old for 38, or I started driving at age 3!

Terry, What are the 2 nuts welded on the back of the trans crossmember for?

I was reading something about V-6 engines the other day and it said that '79-'81 Firebirds sometimes came with the 3.8L BOP V6 and a 5-speed. Does the B-W T-5 go back to '79 or was there a GM 5 speed tranny (Muncie/Saginaw/truck?)around then? Just curious. There were a lot of 2nd generation F-bodys in the wrecking yard last time I went.

Ever see cars in Japan and Europe with Rear view mirrors on the front fenders? Ever driven a car like that? Must be a pain to adjust unless your arms are really looooooong.

I've seen a website detailing a 302 in a 240Z. It used Mid 70's 351W exhaust manifolds without moving the stering column AIR.

I had the same problem. I am looking at a "manaul - mandrel" to add inside to the bending scheme. Like your packed sand idea, but a steel support that would keep it round. One thing that helps with tight bends is to spray the outside of the pipe with WD-40. Saw a guy do this at the muffler shop. It seems to help it to slide through the shoes and rollers....

According to the application chart at American Racing Ford F-150s have a larger 5 bolt circle than the passenger car 5-bolt circle. up to '96 they are 5 x 5.5" '97 and up they are 5 x 135mm. Is the '99 Lightning a F-150? If so you will need a wheel hub adaptor. F-100s and Rangers use the 5 x 4.5" circle thru '85.

...a Ford 8" ring gear is only 203.2mm diamter, not a whole lot bigger than a R-200. Aside from the availablility of different ratios, and cheaper posi units...If you have to go with a live axle, at least make sure it stronger than the stock part. a 9" dia. ring gear is actually smaller than the 90+ Nissan R-230.

You guyz are making me homesick! I lived in Phoenix for 15 years.

I haven't had much luck with mine. (Harbor Freight's 12 Ton sideways hydraulic ram with a set of dies which push between 2 wheels) I was only able to get "crush" bends in 2" 18 ga. ehhaust pipe. Yet to try a heavier wall pipe. Maybe 0.120" will bend, rather than kink?