Midnight-280Z

Yea. Trying to find something more complete of possible

Bump!! Still looking.

Would like both driver and passenger. I'll keep you in mind if I can't find a set.

Need coilovers installed, new bushings, wheel bearings, outer tie rods, steering rack boots, ball joints, install R200, AZC diff mounts, sway bars and an alignment. I have the sectioned struts assembled ready to go. Along with all the parts except the wheel bearings (may have the rear set some where) Depending on what the shop does, may also consider doing some engine work as well...

Bump

Bump! Still looking for doors.

Thinking of doing possibly both since I'm going to be overhauling my suspension.....Only place I found that sells inner tie rods are Rare Parts

Was wondering what brand people recommend and/or use when replacing ball joints and tie rods. Rare Parts seems to be the most expensive I've found but not sure if they're worth the extra price. Proforged carries a 1,000,000 mile warranty but things are made in Taiwan. Supposedly, they're pretty good products. Then there's Sankei which is made in Japan and pricing is just about the same as Proforged. Any recommendation for a brand?

I'm planning on having my suspension completely overhauled. Are there any shops in the San Jose area that anyone recommends besides Z Car Garage?

I'm looking for a set of doors in real good condition and complete. Preferably a matching set. I have a 75 280Z so later doors are no good. I'm located in the bay area. If you have what I'm looking for please email or message me condition, pictures and asking price. Thanks

I would be interested in the raffle too. Hopefully this gets going and I don't miss out

Looking for some real nice solid doors for my 75 280Z. From my understanding, 240Z & 260Z doors should also work as well. Preferably I want everything intact and in good condition so I don't have to "rebuild" them. I don't need the locks as I have my own. Please contact me with asking price and pictures. Thanks~

Hey Everyone, So I have an issue. My car was running fine and then all of a sudden it seemed like my 1 of my coil packs just died. Here's exactly what happened. Drove my car to work this morning fine (Roughly about a 30 minute drive and then before turning off my car, let it idle for about 2-3 minutes). Roughly about 9 hours later, I started up the car again. That's when the issue happened. Once I started it up, you could hear the problem. It sounded like a suby. Took the car for a small drive, no more than 2 miles and kept the RPM under 3K. Mostly between 1K-2.5K RPM because I didn't want to push it. The car shakes a bit at low speed/low RPM rev and had that suby sound all the way up to about 2.5K RPM. As I said, I didn't want to push it any further as something is already wrong. I don't see a need to try and push harder than what was needed to hear and feel it out. I did recently have my plugs changed, and after the change, the car ran a lot smoother so I don't think the problem is related to my plugs. They're gapped at .8mm and are the copper type. $13 I believe was the cost of the plugs and the best damn $13 bucks I spent lol. I lost coil packs before and it was a problem when I was trying to get my car tuned a long time ago. The tuner kept blowing coil packs (Specifically #6, the one closest to the firewall) and it would break up in the high RPMs. He was able to get it to a nice tune and I didn't run into any issues for quite some time until now. Since the car has sat for quite some time, I lost the tune we had. It was done through a Apexi SAFC. So my car should be running how it is stock. My boost is set to a good decent amount, but I have not boosted past 10 PSI since I got the car back up and running. I have also not revved past 5K RPM as well since I got it back up and running (within the last 2 weeks) Does anyone know what the issue could be? The tuner suggested that it could be related to a wiring problem when I had the whole swap done a long time ago. He also suggested that I should consider upgrading coil packs as well but said he wasn't sure if it was such a good idea because if the issue is something else, I might end up blowing the new coils. Engine Info RB25DET S2 - Stock'ish - FMIC, FPR, Cone filter, Q45 TB, Apexi SAFC, Manual Boost Controller, Bigger Fuel Pump, Freddy Intake Manifold.

Quick questions, since I'm about to get ready for the same exact work (MSA type 3 all around with wide CF ZG flares) Seems like the front flares are mounted lower than the original line. Am I correct? Wheel & tire specs? Are you using the Z31 hubs?

Please close thread, I found the problem and was able to determine which wire was which.

Hey Everyone, I was going to replace my old Q45 throttle body as I believe my current problem is related to it. When I exposed the wiring to get ready to replace the old throttle body I noticed that one of the wires are not the correct color. I have the blue/black, yellow/black and a white wire (RB25 side)...I don't have a red wire that I see in all the other wiring procedures. When I disconnect the TPS plug, it does nothing to the engine. The car will still run and idle. Idle doesn't change. Idle can still be adjusted by the screw I've been having trouble with the car idling correctly as it keeps dying. The idle has been temporarily raised and it idles fine now instead of constantly dying. However, I do believe either the TPS or possibly the wiring has a problem. Any suggestions?

Any news or updates on my replacement wide CF flares?

Hey Paezfs, please check your PM...Thanks

Are these still available?

I agree with Miles and RebekahsZ...Refreshing would be a better idea than doing the "upgrade" notice the quote....it may end up more trouble than it seems just to get everything working in sync. That's my opinion. I had the MM front brake upgrade (S12W Calipers) and bought the MM rear upgrade as well (never installed it). When I had the front upgrade I had to pump the brakes, first pump doesn't bite hard enough...second/third pump usually does it... If you're driving hard, it can become a dangerous factor. Because of this reason, I never drove within a certain distance of cars in front me (you never know when **** may happen). I never got around to installing the rears as I decided to go another route (FC3S calipers & 12.2" rotors all around, no after market proportioning valve or master cylinder upgarde...maybe in the future I will). Anyways... For the front upgrade you listed, MM also sells an adapter as well For the rears, it's a 1984-1985 300ZX (Brembo Part #25139). Not sure if you can run the Z32 calipers..You'll need the 240SX calipers and hangers, not just the caliper.

HOLY *$#@... You can rev to 25K RPM?!?!?! Need me one of those motors

Anyone know where I can get some quality carbon fiber ZG flares besides ZCCJDM? The flares are too expensive for me over there and can't afford the $600+ price. I'm positive they are quality but it's just too high for me. I've been hearing about slighly warped flares coming from MSA recently due to their old molds and the only place I can find them are either from Justin (ZForce) or ebay. Justin has the BAMF flares which are too wide for me...I don't know the quality of the ebay ones but most of the time, ebay usually = crap. If anyone can point me in the right direction, that would be great. Thanks

Can anyone post the part number to the front fenders (Left & Right )....Would really be interested to see if I can still get these at the dealers.

I ran a true staggered set up for a while, 16s in front and 17s in back... 16x7 Rota RB 205/45/16 (I think tire wise) 17x8.5 Rota RB-R 245/40/17 (Rubs) I am lowered on Tokico Spring and HP shocks. I thought I had the same problem you did regarding the looks of the RB and RB-R...The curvature actually varies in the size of the wheels. You can have 2 different looking RB and RB-R depending on your size. Steering got really heavy with this set up and I'm glad I moved away from it. As for tires, I could of cared less that I couldn't rotate. I'm still running a staggered set up but this new set up feels a lot better to me personally than my old one even though it's not a "true" stagger set up. 17x8/8.5 Fronts (I can't recall exactly) 17x9 Rears 225/40/17 All around I would stay with the same diameter wheels and just stagger the width of the wheels. Will be doing ZG flares in the future so most likely I'll be moving away from my current set up again and end up with 17x9.5 all around.

When you dropped off your car, was it running or did you have to strip it down prior to dropping it off?