Midnight-280Z

For those of you that has the damaged dash cap, where did you get it from? Just curious where these came from as I got a full dash cap from MSA that's about to get installed. Not sure if it might be supplier specific or just a common problem. I've seen one on another car and it's been there for a while. It's just faded. Then again, it's a half cap and it just sits on the dash no glue or compound of any kind. The guy just puts it on top and uses it more for a cover. Over hard bumps sometimes it bounces around but doesn't fall off.

I ordered the head drain fitting (-8) from you like a while back, not sure if you remembered. I'm the one who reqeusted the fast shipping. You got the head drain in a -10? If so, let me know either by PM or email I'm interested as this will come in handy for a future build. Thanks

It's going to be HARD finding OEM seats with the slot on the bottom for the 5 point harness. I'd go with Corbeaus...They won't cost you $1000 and you can find them used for even cheaper. Only problems with Corbeau is they fade..They're notorious for fading. What I would do is find some ripped or faded Corbeaus and get them redone. I've seen some on Craigslist list for 300 (Pair) damaged (ripped and faded). As long as your shell is in good condition and the padding is still there I think you'll be okay. Brand new they're about 350-400 each.

If you got the money for it and willing to come to the bay area...Z Car Garage. Call them first before you come here and get an estimate. They're not cheap, but I hear they are the BEST in Cali. Talked with Rob (Owner) a few times and he's a cool guy. I see him and his car on the road pretty often when I'm on lunch heading that way

After eons of hibernating, it has started to awake from it's deep slumber threating the peace of man kind once again. Through the piercing darkness, you can feel the aura and the devlish glare coming up behind you...Are you prepared for what's about to come? Thought I share my progress with my ride how it's been so far and a story about my car lol. Well, let's start off with when the first engine died. First Swap L28ET Time To Kiss L28 Bye Bye and Prep For RB25DET Toyo S12W Calipers Z31 Vented Rotors (Front) Center Gauges (Will Be Re-Arranged) Time For The RB RB25 Test Fitting With No Powder Coat and XO2 Manfiold (Chrome) Where it is now...So close yet so far... Can't wait till it gets out...I'm sure we're both itching to be back on the road again. Well, let me know what you guys think of it so far..I'll get more pics of the interior once I get it back. Still got to finish some things here and there but it should be out soon I hope. Got a brand new Nardi steering wheel and shift knob waiting too. If you have any questions, feel free to ask.

Here are the same seats my friend has in his 240Z http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VW-MK2-RECARO-SEATS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ65Q3a12Q7c66Q3a2Q7c39Q3a1Q7c72Q3a1171Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a0Q7c293Q3a2Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem3a5049b4efQQitemZ250455110895QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories Should be able to find these at your local JY...I think he said he got his for about 100-150. Hope this helps...I was looking at the same seats but I'll probably end up getting some Corbeau in the near future since I can't afford the Recaros I want.

Needy paint job and body work = Sleeper ....But I have to agree with some points here. You can spend that money else where if you plan to have a shop do it as the price will vary depending on how you want it done. If you do it yourself all it takes is time and it be a lot cheaper. I had Wheel Techniques (SIK Industries) black chromed my intake manifold and 2 pipes...Cost almost $300 bucks.. So you can get an idea of what it cost. IMO if you really wanted to do it, do it yourself to save as much money as possible for a paint job or other goodies. Doesn't seem like you really like the rim and you'll replace it in the future. So don't waste a lot of money on them. Another option is go to the junk yard to find some nice mesh wheels and then call it a day.

When the vents like misterZ was available on Ebay, I contacted them asking if they had it in carbon fiber as I was looking for some. Unfortunately, at the time they didn't make them in carbon fiber due to some issues and the cost of them. Also believed the interest wasn't there back then (this was like a year ago). Now there's a chance of it becoming available in CF....SWEET!!!....If I keep my hood now, I'm interested in a set depending on the price. ^^

sounds nice.....wish my car was all done =( How does the tip look on your car? Does it seem too big? I was going to get the same HKS muffler but took a second thought as the tip was too big for my style. None the less, the car does sounds nice..Wish my car made a sound when I step on the gas pedal besides me going "Vroom...Vroooom...VROOOOOOOOM..PSSSHHHH" lol

That might be a tough one...First off Old School Zs are straight 6 which have their own unique sound to them. The 350Z is a V6 which has a different tone and sound. On top of that, the 280Z are single over head cam and 350Zs are dual overhead cams. 2.8 liters compared to 3.5 liters...Adding headers will not give you a tin can sound, that tin can sound can be because of a hollowed out cat, which does sound like a tin can. by the "Fast and Furious" sound, what do you mean by that? There was a 350Z in Tokyo Drift...If you are worried about the "Ricer" sound, I guess your best bet would be one of these mufflers Magnaflow (I'm using this one for now) Flowmaster- Muscle car sound Dynomax Cherry Bomb Etc.. Also, what are your specs on the car? Is it still stock? The "Ricer" muffler are actually pretty good (IMO)...they are a straight through design and high quality if you go with the right company. The problem I ran into with the canister type muffler is more of a personal style..I think some of the canister type muffler tip's are too big for Datsun Z's (115-120mm). The canister type muffler will give you a better mid-high end while the regular muffler (OEM Style) like the ones above will give you a better low-mid end. For your information here is what I have gathered regarding some canister type muffler. Although they claim to have a 75, 76 or 80mm inlet, if you look on the outlet (tip side) you'll notice that some of the mufflers will not really be that size all the way through. I've heard that on the HKS they advertise a 75mm inlet pipe, when you try to put a 2 1/2" pipe through the outlet, it will not fit. This is due to the regulations in japan. So far, here are the muffler that are really a 3" straight through. Meagan Blitz NUR Spec RSR GT2 (my future muffler) You can find this info at the following link: http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=318670 Keep in mind that as your car's performance change, so will the sound. Hope this helps and if not, sorry I couldn't be of any help. Good luck and remember you can always youtube for some sound clips.

I got the same PRC radiator as well. I paid slightly less than $244 shipped. I got it on sale somtime last year. Here's a pic of the radiator in the car. Sorry, it's the only pic I have of it until my car comes out of the shop.

This is a long shot here but thought I give it a try. If you still have some available, I'm intersted, PMed you. Thanks

I'm pretty big on anime myself. You can find the complete Wangan Midnight over at www.animecrazy.net haven't been able to verify that the last few episoded have been subbed, but I have watched some of the ones they have there and they are subbed. All of the anime here is subbed, but be prepared for pop ups though. The quality isn't as good as it would be if you've downloaded, but It's free and you stream the anime, what else can I say. They got a whole bunch of other stuff as well. Some of the animes I have watched to name a few. Initial D Hajime No Ippo (Victorious Boxers in America, Currently watching the new version Hajime No Ippo- New Challenger) Wangan Midnight Full Metal Alchemist (All and currently watching the new version) Dragon Ball Z (Currently watching the remake, Dragon Ball Kai) Naruto Bleach Guin Saga (New, looks to be pretty good hopefully) Hellsing (up to date on OVA and all of the original) Berserk There's just too many to list lol. I'll just leave it at this Most of time I download from this other site I'm subscribed to. Beats using any torrents. Takes me like 10 minutes for a full episode to download whether it's day or night. I'm using a wireless connection too.

Hello everyone, I'm looking for brake line brackets for my 1975 Datsun 280Z. Specifically I'm looking for all the brackets that hold the brake line in the engine bay area. I apparently can't remember where I put mine when I removed my lines to paint my engine bay. So I'm in a pinch. Any help would greatly be appreciated and if you know where I can find these new at, please let me know. I need them ASAP. contact me if you have what I'm looking for or know where I can find it at. Thank you for your time Contact Info sleepingoldgeezer@gmail.com

Thanks everyone. I don't plan on using this as an toy....This will strictly be used when needed to, most likely when I'm at a track, drift, and auto-crossing. I'm in search of a better rev limiter than the stock ecu. As when the mixture gets lean tempatures rises causing detonation which is not good. Retarding timing for a rev limiter does damage your engine this has been stated multiple times by people who have the Turbo Anti-Lag System (TALS) most rally people use this because it still builds up boost when you are off the throttle or shifting between gears. On top of that they have the funds to build engines over and over again..The only alternative I have found is this unit which CUTS IGNITION, does not retard timing or lean out mixture. I know the best rev limiter is a driver. However, when at the apex at a corner and you want to apply full throttle you sometimes are very close to redlining..At this point what you think is do I floor it or do I shift gears and possibly lose some speed. I don't want to over rev my engine and have it go boom at the exit of a turn or damage the motor because I decided to hold it in gear. I'm trying to protect my investment from those "What If" situations. Now, I've been doing some research as I was going to use MSD..When reading their info, it states that MSD uses the retard method for launch control (2 Step). which is what I wanted to avoid so that's out the door. I found this unit and don't mind paying a little more to protect my investment. Even though I'm probably going to end up buying this, it will only be used rarely. It seems like Ignition cut for a rev limiter is the best way to go. BTW, the name Bee*R (Bee*Racing)was because that was the founders favorite drink.

If you do it yourself, yes less than 2k...you'll probably have some extra money to dump else where like suspension, maintenance parts, BOV, Intercooler, beer, women, etc. Here's what I would do when you have the engine (L28ET) in front of you. 1. Clean 2. Check Everything- belts, hoses, gaskets, turbo, water pump, thermostat, etc. (Best time to do this and easiest time to change parts) 3. Replace intake manifold with N42 (75-76 280Z which I found these on) non-EGR intake manifold. Remember, NON EGR intake manifold. Should be able to find this in junkyards for cheap. Clean this piece up. This piece will clean up the look of your engine bay greatly and you'll be able to add a 60mm throttle body from a 240sx if you wish. OEM is 50mm. If you're not too sure about this, please do a search. I regret not doing this when I did this swap. 4. Pallnet fuel rail (barbed style is OEM or O-ring depending if you want to upgrade your injectors..$100) Honestly I think wiring is going to be the hardest part. When you finish, don't forget to post up some pics so that we can see how it turned out. These engines were never really appreciated by society except by us Z heads and those that have felt the wrath of this engine lol. Good luck with your project

Go to the thread labeled "260Z + RB25DET S2 motor = badazz 260ZR and some ?'s " He's using Rick Wong mounts. He also posted the thread on it. have you tried using the Search function? you can try www.daftinnovations.com the owner's name is Rich...he's doing CNC custom mounts for my RB25 right now and he was thinking about possibly making more for the future. Not sure how much it's going to cost or if he will make it, but I will be having the first set made.

IMO for being on a budget, the L28ET (280ZXT) would be the best. Direct drop in and cheap. Here's the problem with the 240Z using that motor. It's originally designed for a carb so you will need a 75-76 280Z gas tank. Wire up that bad boy and get a boost controller to boost it up to 10psi (manual boost controller is the cheapest in price) DO NOT GO PAST 10 PSI UNLESS YOU CAN TUNE IT. Stock HP of the engine is rated at 180BHP at 5-7PSI.

Let me get a hold of him and get more info for you. Also, just let you know. This vehicle is located in California. BTW, 280Z only existed in North America. So finding a JDM 280Z will not be possible

Would you mind a RHD 280ZX? My mechanic's friend is selling one but I wasn't interested in the 280ZX body style

Hello everyone, I was wondering if I can get your opinions on this rev limiter product. It's called Bee*R Rev Limiter (Reputable performance shop and parts in Japan) and I'm so curious about this product that I might buy it. So there are 2 functions that this was designed for. Launch control (similar to MSD 2 Step) and rev limiter. Here's what it does and what I have found out. You can also Youtube Bee-R rev limiter for videos. Rev Limiter When set to X RPM (increments of 500) this unit will cut off ignition when that specific rpm is reached thus limiting your rev. However, fuel is still being delivered. The raw fuel is then burned by your hot exhaust resulting in BANG BANG (flames and popping sound). Launch Control You will need to wire this to your E-Brake switch in-order to get this to work for the launch control...Works the same as the rev limiter but your E-Brake has to be on (I'm sure you can wire it differently). Unit has 3 dials 1. Rev 1 (this knob is used to set your RPM for the rev limiter) 2. Rev 2 (this knob is used to set your RPM for launch control) 3. Gain (The lower you set it, the quieter the BANG and quicker popping sound. Higher setting has louder BANG. I believe this also controls the ignition cut off time as lower settings will have a rapid popping sound and higher setting will have more of a single BOOM) Electronically controlled. Unit is placed inside the cabin for simple and easy adjustment. On/Off function. !THIS IS IN NO WAY A TURBO ANTI-LAG SYSTEM! Some questions I wanted to ask as I'm sure there are many different answers, but as stated I'm looking to see what people think about this product. 1. Is ignition cut off better than the OEM ECU's way of rev limiting (leaning)? 2. Rumors are you may damage your vehicle's engine (similar to anti-lag damage). Is this true? (Damage to the catalytic is guaranteed if you have one) 3. How important is it to have a rev limiter for a RB25DET? (This car will be used for daily driving, auto-cross, track every now and then, spirited mountain driving and I might even try to drift this bad boy every now and then) 4. Do you see any downside? Remember, this is not a Turbo Anti-lag System nor was it designed to be one. The BANG, BOOM, and flames is a result of the outcome. Your guys' feedback is greatly appreciated and welcomed...Thanks again

I'll be using a Nismo Strut Bar for my 280Z. It clears as my engine sits far back and low..I'm also using the JGY intake manifold which helps a lot..Look into the Cusco Strut bar..It appears to be exactly like the MSA CF one. MSA may even have copied it..Main problem is that stock intake manifold on the RB..Good luck. ...Still waiting for my car to finish...

PRC Dual Pass Aluminum Radiator...This is what it looks like from the front...PRC is very very very similar to the AFCO one. From my understanding, the PRC owner use to work with AFCO, then started his own company. Unfortunately, my car isn't running yet....Still waiting

I think when my mechanic did the swap, he used a Nissan 240SX Throttle Cable. Also, for the radiator I used a PRC Dual Pass Aluminum Radiator...Here's a picture of the radiator. Also, check out www.daftinnovations.com go to the myspace page and look at the photo album. If you look at random jobs, you'll see a Z with a RB25 so you can get an idea how he ran the intercooler pipes and intercooler...the guy used a Freddy intake manifold though...You can see what it would look like if you look at the RB20 Swaps. Hope this helps you with your project

Not to sound like a jerk or anything, but use the search function...There is plenty of info for you to get it on there and how people did it.