AE2ZX

yes yes .i just sent out a money order to a z good ebaying z owner .. should have injectors very soon .hopes its not the afm To .iam just broke right now so injectors will have to do .

lets see .got my bov this moring ..its pretty cheap one but it doesnt leak so i guess iam stoked ...i switched drop restors boxs late last night ... little bits of change each one making it better and better ...Untell shes just right .

ya sence i got mine like five other people in this town got one ....more and more i see them around ...there is a white 1978 fully msa kitted 2+2 .. he is a old guy...i seen him and pulled up next to him at a light right befor i did the swap .. he gave the big tumbs up as i kicked it out around this corner ... i want to kick out again ....... ANYONE have any Turbo injectors they want to trade for a header .. s%$! bring me injectors and you pretty much could have any parts you want... i got plently .....Anyone need a Na ecu i got three that work great . two heads a n47 and a p79 . a full set of nice stock six spoke rims and tires . if anyone one wants them or needs them I will trade for ... a SET of turbo injectors .or sell for REAL cheap ..

Thanks B Tryed to weld up a spot nere my test pipe ..i think iam going to weld and new piece in there and get rid of the leaky test pipe crapper turned the afm screw out more and it does seem better . also swaped Tps sensors ..i think it was better ....... than the one that i took off was really old looking on the back side . tryed to tighten my ex manifold bolts but burnt my hand ..going to come back to that one when she's cold.......... seems like i have a little leak on one or two off the manifold blots ...not sure witch one mabe #three

i thought it was a vacum leak at frist but iam running 20 to 21 under 0 on the vac gauge..... the na fuel pump and the turbo fuel pump push the same max flow rate ... 68 psi max . turbo or na ..i had my homie at the parts store look this up ..they sell you the same part for NA or turbo ... i also looked this up in hayness . "68 max psi"............ with my fpr , i can set it to whatever psi i want to , so it will bring up as much fuel to the rail as i want ...i cant get it passed the 68psi mark you can tell thats all the the pump can take and starts to flutter right about the 61 psi mark. running at 50psi now and its working like a champ ..but no matter how much fuel you put in the rail .the injectors will only flow to there 200cc max limit . afm SEEMS to be working good ..when i turned the ajuster screw out i could here the change in the idle , after it settled .......my car wont start without it being pluged in .. it realy acts like its the flow rate ....great idle and air fuel gauge sits in idel zone ..rev it even just a little and the gauage drops to lean ...rev it to much and the gauge goes lean to the point where it drops off and there is no reading ...let it up and it comes right back ... like a said i can drive it if i drive lite and dont step down ... stock flow rate for Na injectors = 200cc turbo's injectors flow rate = 280cc that is a big diff... for sure iam getting injectors frist my hayness book did not have the injector wire color code ..i was very carefull when switching the wires around and they way it idles so clean i dought i got it wrong .but if anyone has the injector color code for 1981 cars then please post it up . there is not alot of posting done for the 81 ..not alot of them left ? or just not alot poeple willing to post up about it....hmhmhmm .there is a nice post on the z31 ecu swap for 81 ... thanks to afshin and 280z turbo ...

pulled afm apart this eveing ...cleaned it and give the swipe arm a new spot to swipe ..noticed that the air fuel screw was set all the way in on the lean setting ..so i backed that out and its much better ..still not the right amount of fuel but better .... i can drive it , as long as i dont start stepping on her she wont buck or kick ..as soon as hit the boost zone its starts cutting out. i if i drive carefully and watch the air fuel gauge ... its fine but if to much gas is given guage drops to lean and then it will buck or kick .. still wondering on that o2 sensor ? is its differnt from na to turbo ? if it is i will go get one and try and see if that fixes it . but iam pretty sure i need turbo injectors and fuel pump....

ya mine is hooked in the same way yours is ...it was working fine on the NA motor.....i hooked it in the same way as befor .i was wonderig if mine was hooked up right .....or mabe just this ecu signal is a little slower .i dont know .mabe your gauge is broke .mine doesnt swing back and forth untell iam driving ..on warm up it ,as the car getts hotter the spot will change .its only when i drive that is starts swing....i had three na ecu's when i would switch one out i would always hook my gauge up ..each ecu actted a little differnt from the other ...mabe turbo ecu's each act differntly when is comes to the pluse they send out . Miss fire . crankangle piece of poop sensor .i hate timeing . she starts and idles so good .but if i put load on her she starts missfireing ..i i palyed with the stupied dissy and the crankangle sensor its a little better but not right .i was going to clean the afm as u said but .... i had a oil problem, i had to work out frist. mine line popped off ,to the oil cooler .. when i was reving her ..i had oil everywhere . had to get some fittings pressed on to the lines...What a mess That wAs .all better now but man oil everywhere right after i got her all clean .so lame . so ya going to clean the afm and every connection .and see if that makes it better ..then go back to messing with the crank angle. ..there is a few things i wanted to know about . #1 o2 sensor ..are they the same for TURBO as THE Na one . iam using this na one i bought .the turbo one was gone when i got my motor . #2 fuel pump iam still using the stock NA one that came with my car . should i fined a turbo one or are they the same . also iam using phyton injectors .they all are ticking and sounding like there working great .. But i think there for NA z motors . #3 head temp sensor.... iam useing the turbo one now , but i have a new one that i got for the na .can i switch it or is the signal differnt ? there a few more but gray needs help putting the motor back into the AE.... i will be back an hour or two later ....... i think i just figured out the problem .... i messed my crank angle sensor and dissy turning it back and forth with no change on the timeing light hmhmhmhm gray was watching my fuel ratio gauge it was running in the second rich bar at idle.. when reved the guage would drop from rich to leannnnnnnnnn .popopopopopopp . i didnt see this befor .iam mind mind less stoner sometimes.lololol ....i dont think my injectors arent giving the motor the right fuel ratio . along with my fuel pump? SO i turned up my fuel presser ragulator to 40psi and it got alot better ...went for a drive and i could get alittle more rpm's with way less popping .....came back and turned it to 50psi ....went for a drive and i got her to 4000rpm with out it cutting out ...fuel....... Turbo's need more of it ... as soon as i start pushing boost it starts to stuggle and chop ..... so injectors and fuel pump ARE on the top of my list ....... ..i thought it was spark ...but WITH just putting more fuel in the rail all the popping went away when reved not under load ... when the motor is underload its way worse . for sure its not vacum becuase she is running 20 to 23 under 0 gray said and i qoute .."it sounds like a skyline when she starts to spoll " right at about 2800rpm .you start to here it ..its like a whistle ... really though with the hybrid garrett turbo , tin saab down pipe and the way the pipe is ran under the drivers seat it does have a pretty awsome sound i want to here it at like 5300 rpm . there is still lots to do to get it to that point ...and many things to figure out . i dont think my gauge is faulty after this discovery . so if yours isnt reading and just sitting still then i bet its toast.....

i know this is a older thread ,but i just did this swap and there is a bit of a change in the bellhousing tickness where it bolts to the block . also you will have to swap drivlines aswell .

happy birthday TO me .! going to do some tuning ...crank angle sensor .we ajusted it side to side but not up and down iam going to read the book and see if its right or not. they aren't that greatest z parts ..iam looking for a 82 or 83 dissy .. just havnt had any luck i bid on one but was out bid right way . for sure iam going mess with the afm ..i have it mounted and little wierd so iam forsure messing around with it .

nice gollum your moving right along with it , dont give up .

thanks man ... on the little box next to the coil .. i had that black and white striped wire pluged into the resitor on there then grounded that resitor was ran to the na harnees .... it was wrong .. it would blow my fuel pump realy fuseable link everytime i turned the key on ..after it shorted out that ground i figured it out .wierd the na car harness is just a little differnty setup .... ya something up with vac stuff . i tryed hooking and unhooking the turbo vac valves box .No change . i think she aprking right for sure and the injectors are fireing right for sure .i turned the timeing back to 10 deg off top dead .using a timing lite .

she now starts starts everytime . i need to ajust a bunch of stuff ...i think there is a vac leak or somthing because i cant rev past 2100rpm with it starting to cut out .. oil presser is good now .idle screw needs cleaning and ajusted . exhaust from the cat "test pipe" and back NEEDS TO go back on so that could be part of why it wont rev out ?...on the ecu plug i had to ground the the green and blue striped wire and powerd the yellow .when i would turn the i key i could hear the fuel pump kick on but it wouldn't fire over .no start signal..in the turbo DI FROM "haynes"..it shows that the starter is ran differntly on the na car and part of it plugs into the inhibitor relay . at one point i was making that relay freak out ... SO i walked over like the matrix and said "inhibit This" and pulled it . i then ran and magic button and she fired right over ..right way alot faster and clearner sounding than the Na motor. after some ajusting she should run good .... idles is strong and head sounds real good no knocking or wired sounds from the block or turbo .all in all this was funny but ITS alot of time and money ... UPDATE went out and she fired up strong ....idle is great can not rev past 2000 something , without it cuting out ? vac leak?

HAYNES DI . for 81 na ....shows it being a little differnt from 81 turbo ... in like to spots ...as soon as i track it down ..or figurer it out fully i will post ..i can see why ..i just have to figure out what to do about it...... i mite scan the 81 dia for both na and turbo in to the computer and then i would beable to show you ..it so hard for me to explain it .

OK BEEN READING THOUGH HAYNES WIRING DI. i found a few things i want to check into ..i will post more soon thanks G .. you are a gentalmen and schalor

why does it blow this fuseable link the second the key is turned on ? what is this one for ??????????????????? i color matched the wires yellow to yellow .black white to black white green to green ?????????????????????????????????????? is this right ??????? iam unsure about all these they go to the auto trany left side inhibitor realy ?????????? do i just unpulg it ? or leave it alone ? do i POWER the green wire becauce my car is a gL .or GROUND it ? what about the yellow next to the green shouldnt that be ran to the ignition? iam looking though haynes left and right ...... i cant figure out why it wont turn over with the key and why i blows the one fuseable link everytime the key is turned on ... i dont know what to do.. i dont want to fry the ecu or any other parts ..... its a 81 na car with a 81 turbo motor and harness both cars came with auto trany ...... it seems to me , that at frist i could here the fuel pump come on and kick off... but now if i turn the key i here the fuel pump come on and then the fuseable link blows out . was doing the starter wire jump bad thing on these cars??? it did i fine to times , car started up and ran fine , the last time i did it ........ it poped the link and now it just pops the link everytime the key is turned on .

OK SWAPED throttle bodys . swap oil sender units . this ground that hooks to the j tube .at least that is where i thought it went ..i moved it to the block .i think the j tubes powder coating wasnt letting signal though . what does this ground go to ? and would it blow a fuse able link , if singal wasn't going though ........... i trayed to turn the key again and it blue out a fuseable again . something is wrong somwhere

But what of the single yellow wire .it says 12v power is needed to that wire.. green should be ground....... YW should run to the coil . is this only for the older z cars 78 and under s130's? or is it the same for all ?.... ether way i have to make a block off plate for the throttle body or swap back to the turbo one becuase of the vac leak ..so to anyone that read my throttle body stuff ..dont try it unless you make a thin spacer out of sheet metal .without it , it will leak right where it hooks on to the intake. a thin sheet metal spacer should stop this from happening .also the throttle is to short and hard to deal with .:icon56:ya ya bleach you where right! so ya i dont have a clue when i come to wireing i can turn wreaches all day but i lack in the wiring zone .she ran good and strong... didnt seem like anything was messed up in the block or head .iam going to go mess her . if anyone has any ideas why it wont fire over with the key post them up .....

so it runs ...i turned the key and used a wrench and jumped the starter ...she fired over and ran strong .check the timing it looked it like it was a 28 deg off top dead .trottle body has a bad vac leak .and tps needs ajusted . she ran real good got her all hot and the gasket started to seal . why wont it start with the key ? what did i do wrong ...so gray see's that the oil sender isnt showing that there was alot of oil presser ..he turn it off and then it wouldnt start again .i dont think there was anything wrong with the oil presserbecuase the temp didnt jump or act wierd and it sound real stong .. i think the sender is messed up .but it wouldnt start again ..going to let it cool off for a bit and see if she will fire up again. what did i do wrong on the wireing .i think my car is a GL this shows that the green with blue striped wire needs to be grounded i think i need to ground the green and blue striped wire and i need to run a 12v power to the fully yellow one .and the tech wire is right becuase my tech was working fine ...i went out and tryed to start her again .she turn over but then the fuseable links box fryed a link ..it was the link for the dash wires .i dont think it likes being hot wired or ran with thoughs wires unhooked "??????????????????????????? {anyone}... someone stop me if iam wrong but i think i need to hook up the wires in the ignition harness as showin in the second link posted .... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=112283&highlight=turbo+swap http://www.yadamnfool.com/turbo_z_conversion/s130_zxt_to_s30_z.htm i really suck at wireing .i need little help:ugg:

yes if you leave a AUTO in drive or low or second . AND you turn the key it wont start .isnt this how all auto's are? that is what it is doing everything comes on but it wont fire ..i can here it . it make a anananan sound ..i use to forget all the time to stick in park , when i would turn the key it would do this ...................its doing that now for sure. how to i make it think its in park ?

turned the key ...and its acting like its in grear ? i am sure that its the in gear switch .how do i turn it off so i can get it to fire over ????????????? To anyone that has done a trany swap from AT to MAN how do i get the trany switch for the auto to turn off ??????????????? IAM SO ICHING TO MAKE ITS HAPPEN I HAVE A GOOD FEELING MY ECU GREEN LITE POWERS ON EVERYTHING IS HOOKED UP ....I KNOW SOMEONE HAS THE ANWSER I NEED ? COME ON I WANT TO SEE IF SHE WILL RUN .AT TRANY SWITCH SHUT

yes yes Thank U BLEACH your wiring drawing worked great .,.. iam on the right wirer for the coil .! down pipe is ready for welding have to wait untell gray getts off work around 6pm to have it welded up he is the only one that knows how to set this welder up! going to go finsh the injectors and install this new clutch master if it shows up at the parts store .if not i wont get to drive it untell that shows up . iam going to run that hose to unless the bov i orderd shows up . other than these last four things i think shes done {hopefully}

nice nice .yes i think i have it .. iam going o check the plug on the ecu side just to make sure but i think its right . got everything i need from the parts store .clutch master will be here this afternoon . i got my front mount oil cooler all setup .used high temp hose and fittings and Rv sealent to seal it ..i think it turned out well .i sealed it up real good hopfully it wont leak . as for the block cooler G.mine never came on so why have it . it never gets past 90 deg here and even when it does get to 90 deg it only stays that way for a day or tWo out of the whole year . on my turbo block cooler it had a plastic down pipe to suck cold air up from under the car .wierd my na did not have this . going to work on my D pipe and injectors .iam pretty sure i have them in the right order .its nice they made them so you can tell witch wires go where . still have a few more things to handle .i will be back later to let you all Know if she fires up .

ok on the three wire setup (driver side ).i cut that harrness and did the same as you did . i ran the yellow to the dash plug by the ecu . hooked it to the wire you showed me on that plug {right after the ecu }. ran that black and white to the ground . i removed the blue wire and didnt use it. where does that wire hook to ? you said blue gos to power on the na harrness ? but where and then it would be running to what ? i am pretty sure i got it right.... as long as the yellow wire you showed me to hook it to was right ......then i should be all good . but still unsure of the blue wire hmhhmhm . as for the na power and ground to the coil blue is ground , black and white stripe is power. i know this for sure , both the na and turbo cars coils where wired this way . on the fuseable link side .i color matched everything .and left the blue and white wires taped off .where you kidding me that {green goes to yellow} ????? on the pvc intake spot i caped that off and on the j tube iam going to put my bov .it just hasnt gotten here yet . if it doesnt show up i will put the stock bov settup on ,as you said just untell the bov getts here . i gots to go to the parts store .i want to try to fire over her over this eveing ...

got so much done today pretty much fully wired still working on a few things . bleach where you at ? Or anyone THAT KnoWS what thAT BLUE WIRE WHIT THE RED STRIPE GOES TO ??

Bleach is M.I.A