Z-TARD

Here's a few ideas, not really in order of cool factor, just random: 1) Honda Element + Falconer V12 (V12 based on SBC, disgusting HP levels) 2) Scion XB + LS1/T-56 heh heh heh....... 3) Mid 80's Toyota Cressida wagon + 7MGTE (Built to destroy all) 4) Volvo P-1800 + GN V-6 (Mikey like P-1800's ) To make it even better, you have to get the bumper sticker that says: "My kid is an honor student at _______ elementary school", along with a faded Gore/Leiberman sticker as well. Right in the back window so your victims can see it through all the smoke as you pull away Mike

Wow. I think we have a winner in the category of "Best way to strip undercoating from old cars". That thing is too cool.

Looking good man . I've been thinking of doing something similar to yours actually. I never liked the look of the JTR brace either. Mike

An education at either the Art Center or Art institute of California is gonna cost. Big time. I was looking at a 3 year BS program for industrial design at the Art Institute in Orange county. Tuition fees came out to a little over $70,000 for 3 years. Any design school able to give you a competitive edge in the field when you graduate will cost about this much, if not more. Motor Trend does a design contest every year where the winner gets a scolarship to the Art Center, that might be worth looking into if you want to get involved in the design of cars. If the guy that designed the Aztek still has his job, I'm thinking that nearly any one of us here on this board could do that job. Can't be that hard, right? (Actually he still has a job at GM, and is responsible for the new 2005 Corvette ) Mike

Skyline. Skyline. Skyline. Did I mention Skyline? Not sure about the legality of taking one back to the states, but if you could get it back and register it, you could sell it and buy 4 or 5 Z cars with the money. Just something to think about. Mike (HT1)

The guy would have been even more FUBAR if the PT Cruiser had not slowed down the Subaru. That guy was getting hit either way it looks like.

I'll just let this one speak for itself.

Damn. Thats enough to make ya go write up a will.

Could build it like a ship. Most of the ships I've had the misfortune to be stationed on use steel anywhere from 3/16" to 1/2" thick for deck plating, supported underneath by 4" to 6" "I" beams. This is capable of holding an immense amount of weight: Aircraft, Lathes and heavy machinery, and lots of other really heavy stuff. For a car I think you could get away with using 1/8" plate welded over 2" or 3" "I" beam. Afterwards you'd have to get under it and paint the underside for corrosion protection, although it would probably last for quite a while without it if it's only exposed to fresh water. A benefit of having a conductive floor is that if you do any welding, you can just weld your ground clamp to the floor, anything you weld can just sit on the floor and be grounded If that bothers you, you can paint or coat the floor to insulate it. Just my 2 cents worth of insanity. Mike

That kid needs to get a job as a proffesional stuntman when he gets paroled. That was awsome.

If you could get it cheap enough, I'm thinking "Rally Car" would be a good idea. That car would be right in it's element flying several feet above the ground with chunks of dirt and bondo scattering everywhere. If you could find a way to light it on fire as it was jumping, that would be even better.

I'm 10 years into my Navy enlistment now, and I think it's probably the best choice I've ever made in my life (Other than buying an old silver 240Z on a whim). Military service isn't for everyone, but you'd be surprised how many people can adapt to military life. You don't have to be a robot, just do what you're told. Complain about it later if you feel the need. The military will open your eyes to a lot of stuff. You'll meet, and even be freinds with people you'd never associate with otherwise. The first day of boot camp is a total culture shock I don't think I'd ever heard "Ebonics" until that point in my life. You'll learn leadership skills and ways of working with people that no civilian job could teach you. Depending on what you decide to do, you can learn quite a few job skills when you're in as well. Retiring at 38 years of age is a good thing too Some of the downers are: Waiting in line. There are lines for everything you do in the military. Everything. Working for a$$holes. Sometimes you have to, just like in the civilian world. The only difference is that they can't fire you in the military The food. I don't care what they say, the food always sucks, or at least 90% of the time it does. Don't join up and be a cook, you'll end up kicking yourself later for it. Working with idiots. Sometimes "special" people fall through the cracks and end up in the military, you have to babysit these people so they don't kill themselves, or someone else. They also, can not be fired Paychecks until you reach paygrade E-5. I think the military determines that by E-5, you are pretty much in for the duration, and they increase the pay accordingly. Until that point, the paychecks are kinda pathetic, but they are getting better about that. If you do decide to join up, let us know so that those of us on here can help you pick out a service and job that will work well for you. Recruiters don't really care what you do once you leave their office, and won't lose any sleep for screwing you over. So talk to us before you go along with anything they tell you. Good luck, Mike

I wanna post pics too Sorry about your car. On the plus side, at least the rocker panel still looks intact though. The repair should be as simple as replacing the door and re painting it. Mike

Even after looking at the figures, i think I'd still opt for the 1018 steel. It's been my experience that steel is a much more durable metal than aluminum, even the higher grades like 6061 and 7075. I've seen a lot of load bearing structures made from 6061 that failed under loads significantly less than their listed failure limit. I think a lot of this has to do with the brittle nature of the alloys. The steel seat bracket may bend a little in an impact, but thee chances of it failing altogether are slim. If anything, the bending will help absorb some of the energy from an impact. The aluminum is more springy, at least to a point. After that point it just breaks. I think we can all agree though, that either choice is better than the stock sheetmetal mounts Mike

I don't think this flight will get him the prize. I've been researching this a little, and it appears that they have to do two sub orbital flights within 2 weeks, carrying 3 people. I definitely think they'll be able to do it eventually though. I wonder how much of their R&D costs will be covered by the $10,000,000 Mike

R/C car bodies are made of Lexan. They get painted from the inside though, so no scratch inhibiting qualities there. Normal rattle can paint tends to flake off of lexan, Pactra makes a special type of paint for R/C car bodies that adheres well, but it only comes in flat as it is designed to be applied to the backside of clear lexan. A lot of safety glasses (also lexan) are coated with something designed to reduce scratching, maybe try a web search for that. Hope this helps, Mike

If it's that much of an issue for some people, we could all just call our transplanted engines "Aftermarket Tourque Production Units", and plaster them with little NISMO stickers Mike

Anyone tried this yet? I'm looking at this as an option when my L28 craps out. I know a few guys have done the 7MGTE Turbo swap, but I'd like to keep the car NA since I'm not looking for 700+ RWHP. I think the 7MGE out of the Supra or Cressida would make a good replacement for the L28 for use as a daily driver. It already has 200 horsepower stock, parts are readily available, they're a dime a dozen out of the junkyards also. With some port work on the heads and a good header, 230 HP should be pretty attainable. This seems like a very cost effective option to building up a 3.1 L series stroker motor, which was another idea I was tossing around. Any experts on toyota stuff care to chime in? Mike

Heres one of me in the Persian Gulf, fixing the ships fresh water system during deployment last year. Note the beads of sweat caused by 125 degree temp. Man O Man do I miss that...... :malebitchslap: Mike

Wow. Somewhat positive I guess. Mostly ignorant though. Makes me appreciate this board even more after reading some of those posts. I do kinda resent/resemble that redneck remark though Any chance we can change the name of the forum to Mutz? Mike

I was actually thinking of making an internal baffle for the fuel cell, to prevent all the fuel from sloshing to the "back" of the cell on acceleration. BTW, Your swap is looking pretty good Aux, that manifold looks sweet! Mike

Hmmmm. You guys are backwards Mike

Saw this sweet a$$ ride in Yuma last weekend. Paint appeared to be a mixture of black and red primer over the original silver paint job, along with some latex house paint for added corrosion resistance. Convertable top was tastefully done with a sawzall, with the rear decklid being welded in with the popular coathanger and blowtorch method. Interior appointments are sparse and utilitarian, consisting of semi bare metal covered with chunks of foam and upholstry adhesive. Seats are buckets, reduced in weight for competition by the removal of headrests and upholstry. Anti theft system consists of automatic transmission coupled to a flywheel which has had most of its teeth shaved off (And I only know this because I had to help the owner push it into the parking spot after watching him try to start it for 5 minutes). Anyway, for your veiwing pleasure:

Before and After pics of my new 280Z. Before: After: New fenders, hood, and lower valance. Passenger side door is still hammered, as well as the rocker panel, which will have to be replaced. Mike

Update on Euro Trash headlights: Installed the lights over the weekend. They work pretty well, haven't driven with them though as I have to get the registration done on the new 280. They are quite a bit brighter than the stock lights, and have a blue tint to them that looks kinda cool if that sort of thing is your bag. There is a small blue LED that you can wire in as well to have even more blue tint, but I left mine disconnected. I didn't have to modify the headlight mounts at all to mount them, and the stock plug fits onto the back of the H4 bulb. They are rated at 85W, but don't seem to overload the electrical system when turned on. Heres a pic: Link:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&tc=photo&item=2480359035&category=33710 Mike