Z-TARD

I like everything but the integrated bumper, it makes it look heavy and not very areodynamic. The driving lights are pretty cool though. Mike

You can tell the difference between a 350 and 327 by measuring the distance that the piston travels from TDC to BDC. A 350 piston will travel 3.48" down into the bore before reaching Bottom Dead Center, the 327 piston will travel only 3.25" Mike

I also have a 3970010 block in my garage. It's a 4 bolt 350 ci block out of a late 70's/early 80's 4wd pickup. It has the 010 and 020 numbers cast into the timing chain area and on the back of the block as well, indicating the addition of .10% tin and .20% nickel during casting. The additional nickel is supposed to make the block wear better. I'm pretty sure that GM used this casting number on a large number of blocks, as it is a fairly common number in the junkyards out here, at least in the trucks. Not sure if they ever used it for the 327's, but it could be converted to one by switching the crankshaft with a 327 made after 1969 (large main journal) Casting numbers are definitely confusing though, and although many books have been written that list which blocks go with which casting number, there will always be oddball combos that don't match up. Mike

Chat no worky for me

The older Mazda pickups are hard to kill as well. I had a friend in high school who had one. He drove it off a 35 foot cliff several times, managing to bruise one of his ribs, bot not break the truck. The truck was also intentionally rolled several times, set on fire, and shot with various caliber firearms with no ill effects other than a broken windshield. I was very impressed by the rugged construction of the vehicle, fully boxed frame rails, 6 lug hubs, and pretty stout sheetmetal for an import. They definitely don't make them like they used to though Mike

As far as I know, you can't shrink metal with a body hammer once it has been stretched. I've seen it done before with a torch and a spray bottle of water. Heating the metal up with a torch and then rapidly cooling it with the spray bottle will make it shrink. I have never actually tried this myself though, so I can't give you any advice on how to do it correctly. Maybe try it out on some scrap metal for a few days to get an idea of how the metal will behave as it cools. Mike

I didn't mean to make a mockery of the whole thing, but the thought of the Mongoose on ebay is kinda horrifying. It would be like watching the girl next door that you've always kinda had a crush on take up prostitution for a living. Not to mention the potential buyer of the car. I have a feeling if the guy ever tried post or ask a question on here, he'd just get: "Yeah, whatever. Shut your cake hole dude" in reply. Just ranting I guess. Maybe make a 2+2 version of the Goose? Mike

I laughed so hard I nearly peed myself (Ok, I may have even peed myself, just a little ) Every time I was almost asleep last night, I could picture the guys face with the earmuffs as he looks over at the guy next to him, and I'd start laughing all over again. I showed it to the guys at work today and had the whole shop rolling around in the fetal position from laughing so hard. Who would have thought something this funny would originate in Germany? Mike

I can't take this any more. I feel left out, so I'm GIVING away my newly aquired 78 280Z, along with a carton of milk from my fridge which is one week past the expiration date Mike

Whoa.... It's the automotive equivalent of the cockroach Mike

I think I might be able to get away with no grinding on the rod bolts since I'm using scat forged H-beam con rods. The rod bolt threads directly into the rod itself. I'll know for sure once I get the machining done and start assembly on it. Thanks again for the info, I almost chickened out and was going to pay the machine shop $80 an hour to do the clearancing for me :malebitchslap: Mike

Wouldn't the engine be more likely to prevent a car from rolling if it was in 4th or 5th gear? Seems to me the leverage would be more in favor of the engines compression that way. Sounds like we need to do a group buy on some wheel chocks, maybe some nice billet aluminum ones with the HybridZ logo CNC milled into the side Mike

Ok, I can see them now. Looks like less work than I thought it would be. Looks like about 1/4" off the sides of the skirt. Is there any taken off the block near the bottom of the cylinder bores? Thanks for the pics, Mike

The way it lifts from just the backside is kinda scary. I'd like to see a picture of it in the raised position to see how all those arms and hardware articulate. It would probably work on something as light as a Z car though, but I'd think twice before putting a 79 Lincoln on there. Mike

For some reason the images are not showing up. I'm getting the little white box with red X

Not sure how it would mount. I'm thinking of using it on my newly aquired 280Z if I can find an L28ET to put in it. Picked it up as more of a "just in case" item. You never know when you might need an intercooler for something...... Mike

Not sure how it would mount. I'm thinking of using it on my newly aquired 280Z if I can find an L28ET to put in it. Picked it up as more of a "just in case" item. You never know when you might need an intercooler for something...... Mike

This is the place where I got my exhaust tubing and bends. High quality stuff. http://stores.ebay.com/vertexnow Hope this helps, Mike

Answer: Drivers side not too bad, make sure your sitting down for this one.... Now I know why there were only front and rear photos in the Ebay add. Not really as bad as it looks though, the door and fender can be replaced, and the rocker panel can be repaired as well. To add insult to injury though, someone over the course of the cars life decided to add one of these also: No leaks that I have noticed yet, of either water or sunlight, as one of the previous owners decided it would be wise to paint in black from the inside. Probably an Albino.... On a positive note, the floorboards seem to be totally intact and the A/C works flawlessly. Engine runs smooth, but will need a little tune up before driving it regularly. Anyway, this is my new prize. Hopefully over the next few months I'll be able to turn this one into my el cheapo daily driver while so I can ditch my billlion-dollar-a-month-payment-Eclipse. Mike

Someone should ask him for a pic of the floorboards, just to make sure there's no rust

Actually, the Armalite AR-50 (and other non-semi auto 50BMG rifles) ARE legal to own in California. I see 50's almost every time I go to the South Bay gun range down here in San Diego. I have a feeling one of those would rain all over that little racoons parade. The safety on those should be labled: SAFE--------->VAPORIZE Mike

Can't remember now where I read that. A quick Google search shows that the Armada has 3.36:1 rear end gears. Still not too shabby. Mike

Surge tank looks like a Coleman propane torch tank. Whatever it was, it looks really trick now Mike

I'm about to send my 350 block to the machine shop for torque plate hone, decking, etc. I was thinking I could save a little cash by clearancing the block for my 383 crankshaft by myself. I've marked out the areas that need to have metal removed, but I was wondering if anyone on here has some pictures of a block that has already had this done to it for the sake of comparison. Mike

Heyyyyyyyy...... Mikey like Where'd ya get that? Mike