Wedge
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Posts posted by Wedge
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Hi, I am in the process of removing my RB26 and Z32 tranny bellhousing and I cant seem to be able to remove the shifter rod on my RB26 tranny . How do you remove the dowel pin mine looks like a cylinder with another smaller cylinder inside it i tried tapping on the middle one with a punch but it wont budge . Any ideas on how to do it . I cant post pictures now but tomorow I will to help clarify if anyone knows what im talking about.
Thank you
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Wow you really are the King of custom RB26Z the one we all look up to ! I bow before you
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Personnaly i chose the RB26 over the SR20 because i wanted torque and because im a sucker for the I6 sound . But if i was to choose a 4 banger it would be a KA for the torque and cheapness of it .
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Thanks alot for the clarifications and picture everyone I guess I was being misinformed about the need to stitch weld the hole thing for a street driven 380-400hp RB 280Z . I will however do the shock towers and TC box . Thanks again .
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^ Thanks for the advice Boy from OZ,so you just welded everything I outlined except front radiatior supports and the frame rails .In your first picture I dont recognize where this is on the Z it looks like the frame rails but im not sure .
The reason why im doing this is beause I was told by a Z guy I met that the RB26 swap im doing would absolutly need some reinforcements to prevent twisting of the front end ... I am a little doubtfull since V8 guys dont seem to be doing seam welding but I told myself what the heck it doesnt hurt to make it more rigid .Since the car will be street driven 90% of its time ,their is no race track within 300km for my place, their is no need to go overkill either.
And Tony D can you show me a picture or just a simple drawing of what you are talking about the C channel from floor to firewall .
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Thanks Tony D , finally the machine we rented didnt work out it was gas powered SMAW machine and the power was alternating to much so it stuck the rod or it burnt through . On 1/16 steel plate it worked nice but on the datsuns 1/32 it didnt . Ill have to get a MIG next time .
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Thank you very much John ! I'll post pictures of the finish product
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Hi guys just wanting to make sure that i have this right I made some red lines where im going to be seam welding the front . Please let me know if their are places where i should not weld and if their are places i forgot
thank you
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I hear mostly that people aare running GT28RS-5 on stock plumbing and make great power in the 500-600 hp range . Personnaly i run twin GT28RS-7 wich are equivalent to a R34 N1 GTR turbo good to 500 hp range with stock like reponse .
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Me too I have error 500 showing up last night
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Ok then stitch weld it is ! But one thing for sure ill use glue for my rockers when im going to change them .
Thanks guys
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Im going to say like theBrit install some overfendres and be done with it less problems in the long run .
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Piece a cake. Just pry open the seams, slather in the glue, pound the seams flat again, and wipe up the excess glue. Oh wait, there's that bending fatigue thing that steel is subject to, not to mention the new "rippled look" of your entire car.
Probably not a good idea.
I get your point about fatigue in the metal if you pry it but then how would someone remove the sealant if they want to stitch weld the shock towers if not by prying it open remove the stuff the reweld ? I guess you could drill out the spot weld then remove the shock tower clean everything up then reinstall reweld .
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Hi everyone I was wondering if anyone heard or used 3M body panel adhesive on their cars ? I am asking this because I am wondering if it could be used as a chassis reinforcement instead of spot welding the intire engine bay . Shock towers,frame rail,fire wall etc I would just open up the overlaped sheet metal then clean the sealer and then glue . Would it be as good or better then spot welds ? I know for sure it would reduce creaks and crack sounds for the car but would it reinforce it or not ?
Thank you .
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Very cool swap if you do it good luck !
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Be sure to post pictures of the finish product please .
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I would like to see some pics if you decide to install them. A company here in California makes a bunch of Bride replica seats and they make a replica of this particular model and I was thinking about buying a pair.
Id like to know to please
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I would see myself buying one of those if i got into an accident or something . Its hard to get a decent frame here up north .
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What im doing on my 280Z is wirebrush and/or sandblast the rust, then zinc prime, then prime, then paint but with what im reading here now i think i should've put some rustconverter under that ... at least i didnt do alot of it yet just the radiator support area.
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I to find this very sad it used to be a very prolific forum and now you ask a question or an opinion and a month later no answers .
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Yes and these to .
Pathfinder
300zx z31 87-89 turbo
taken from a simple search of the word "yoke" in the RB forums ...
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I talked to a local Z guy freak about my RB26 (around 300 hp)swap and besides what you guys are talking about he told me i should spot weld my shock towers and other places in the engine bay to prevent it from cracking I was wondering what you guys think about that ?
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Sorry for bringing an old thread back up . Can i use a RB26 PULL (yes pull) type clutch Exedy Carbon single plate clutch,with a Z32 tranny mated to RB26 bellhousing, its a combo clutch flywheel ?
Thank you very much .
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And the other thing I am wondering is if all the DIY web sites that shows way to swap in lsds in 240sx open diff, will they work in a R200 long nose from a Z ?
Trouble doing bellhousing swap
in Nissan RB Forum
Posted
Here's a picture hope someone can help me on that .