warrenHLS3083301

I think I just died a little bit on the inside. : (

Thanks for the advice

at first I thought they were back ordered, or they shipped the correct airdam on the back of a dog sled, because it would be cheaper since they were paying for it, but now I have lost all faith, and I think I will ask for a refund. Thanks for the advice, now who knows another place where I can order a fiberglass airdam, I have seen them on ebay but they are all urethane.

yeah but its not as easy as it looks, I ordered one in January and this is what they sent me as you can see its for an s30, so I contacted msa over the phone and told them they made a mistake, they asked me to e-mail them pictures, which I did. Upon reviewing the pictures they e-mailed and told me they would ship the correct airdam on monday feb 21 free of charge and that I could keep the 280z airdam. Haven't heard from them since, why is it so hard to get what you pay for? the worst part is the shipping cost more than the airdam.

how come everyone has one but me? I want a type 1 air dam so bad , how do i get one?

found some lower door weatherstripping,My link

look what I found http://www.datsunstore.com/product_info.php/cPath/11_35/products_id/893, everyone place an order so he can get these gaskets made.

count me in, i love the s30 set up i got from them, looks real sharp.

hay, just a thought, this kit would be perfect for an s130 as you could use the rear coil overs and just press on the front ones, or are the front strut tubes on a 280zx larger than 2" ?

Hay, do you think Carroll shelby would laugh, or cry if he saw that photo. Chick in way, henway, those are good but I bet you never heard of a dink four

Ok, I'm confused, is he selling die cast cars or real ones? http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/van/cto/1486369216.html

Correct me if I'm wrong, but that airdam looks a lot like the MSA fiberglass airdam.

I like the look of acura rsx seats, does anyone know if they will fit? s30 or s130?

My fuel pump had a filter/screen on the inlet of the pump housing that got all plugged up http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=151932&highlight=280zxt

the filter was too hard to remove in one piece, and I don't think it is necessary as there is a filter in the tank and one in the engine bay, and besides I want to upgrade to an aeromotive in the future. When I say it was too hard to remove I mean that after working night shift and being awake for more than 24hrs I poked a hole in the filter with a screwdriver, oups

success, I found the problem. took the fuel pump out today and decided to take it apart to see if it was worn out, the metal collar looked good, everything inside looked clean and new, not bad for a 28 year old pump, then I looked through the inlet hole only to find a screen/filter almost completely plugged with rust and gunk, after removing the filter and reinstalling the pump the car runs great.

well, time for an update. I took the fuel sending unit out of the tank and the filter/strainer looks clean, but I decided to take it out of the equation, and when I removed it I found a blockage of black amber like varnish, could this have been the problem? I proceeded to flush out the pick up tube with acetone and when I was satisfied it was clean I put everything back together, now time for a midnight test drive. It runs a lot better than before, it used to sputter and backfire at 2500-3000 rpm and now at 4000 rpm, so thinking there must be another blockage in the fuel lines I took it to a local shop and had them flush out the fuel lines, and it runs a little smoother but still not getting full power. !@#$ I want my 150$ back. The longer I drive the worse it gets maybe the fuel pump is heating up and is not supplying the fuel needed, is there a fuel pump relay that could be bad? has anyone had this kind of fuel pump problem before?

wow, I never knew that elephants had five legs. oh wait, OK that explains the look on the drivers face.

most likely it is the pump, it is 28 years old. It could also be the strainer on the end of the fuel sending unit, I did clean it before i put it back in, but I think I will take it out all together and see if it makes a difference. When I crimp the return line the fuel pressure jumps to 80 psi ,so why would it drop so much when the engine is under load? it must be a blockage in the fuel line somewhere, if it is what can I use to flush the line? a fuel line enima so to speak, turpentine, acetone, kerosene, or do I just put my lips together and blow?

well today I swapped a spare alternator that I had sitting around, the voltage at idle went up from 12 to 14 so it definitely needed changing but the main problem persists, the fuel pump is still making a lot of noise (even at idle) and the power drops off at 3000 rpm and then it starts backfiring, so I had it sitting in the driveway idling for about 10 minutes when the fuel pump quit all together, I guess I know what I will be replacing next.

ok, so I hocked up a fuel pressure gauge after the fuel filter and the pressure is about 28 at idle and it maxes out at 38( this is in neutral), when i unplug the fpr the pressure goes up to 40, when the engine bogs down and stars backfiring the pressure droppes down to 20, just for kicks i swapped a na fpr and no difference. Now my QUESTION is, could i be getting low fuel pressure from a bad fuel pump (stock fuel pump and it makes a lot of noise, even at idle), or could the pump be putting out low pressure because of a low output alternator( 12 volts at idle and goes up to 13.5 when i rev the engine), also the battery light on my gauge cluster is on ( probably a bad ground or a lose wire). I suppose that the return fuel line could be plugged but would that only cause a problem when the engine is under load? and would'nt i have higher fuel pressure?. I have a spare alt but for now i think the signs are pointing to the fuel pump. So what is the best fuel pump to buy? I would like something quiet, durable and able to support my goal of around 250 hp, maybe I should just get a cheap used one just for trouble shooting. I will try to make a video and put it on you tube probably by sat night, if I can figure out how. I don't think it is the timing because the engine will rev to 6000, the turbo will start to spool at 3000 and it sounds great, in neutral, but as soon as you try to drive it it begins to bog down and backfire, and like is said the longer you drive it the worse it gets, mabe the fuel pump is getting hot and I'm loosing pressure. I always thought that when fuel pumps went bad that they quit all together.

bump?

I recently bought a 81zxt that had been sitting for about seven years, it would start but it would back fire and run poorly, so I did the usual and changed the oil, spark plugs, fuel filter, drained and inspected the gas tank, new fuel. so now it runs like a champ until you put it in drive, then it revs to about 2000 rpm bogs down and backfires until you let off the throttle, the longer you drive it the worse it gets, this leads me to believe that it is the alternator but when i tested it (in neutral) it stays at 12 volts at idle and goes up to 13.5 when you rev it. Could it be the fpr? When i unplug the vacuum line on the fpr it still revs fine in neutral. any help or suggestion would be much appreciated. I got to get this thing running, summer is almost over.