grumpyvette

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having worked in manholes for AT&T ENGINEERING I can tell you WHY they use round covers (1) as stated above they wont fall into the hole if dropped in place incorrectly (2) when they are cast they cool more evenly and dont tend to warp or need as much machine work (3) only a ROUND cover can be stood on edge and rolled out of the way for work clearance,(some covers weight 300lbs-700lbs) (4) manhole lids(covers) are tapered on the under edge so they self center and lay flat when weight like trucks are passing over them, a square cover might tend to jump up on the far edge as weight is applied suddenly to the near edge, round covers wont do that (5)(manhole covers have an inner lower lip for the hook that removes them to grasp) since they can be dropped into any position only a round cover gives equal stress when lifted by one edge, and thats inportant if they were to be dropped in place upside down, and need to be flopped over (6) manholes are round because the round shape allows the maximum area for the minimum circumferance allowing the lowest material weight and voluum to strength and opening area for workers and material to pass thru, when your casting a 100,000 at a time the extra metal voluum in square lids adds up fast, not to mention the extra machine work and weight for shipping them

the best power curves Ive found for a serious LT1-LT4 has been with cams similar to the CROWER #00471 at the max and the crane 119661 on the low side in hydrolic roller cams, if you go lower in duration than the crane youll loose potential power, larger than the crower and you give up low rpm torque far faster than the power peak climbs, yes youll make more peak hp but the torque curve tends to suffer noticably for a street strip type car, and yes it goes without saying that youll need a 3.73 rear gear or something similar and a 2500rpm-3000rpm stall converter or manual trans and a engine with 10:1-11:1 cpr to get the best results http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=119661&lvl=2&prt=5 (this is the cam Im running in my 383 now) http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/cam_finder.php?part_num=00471&x=58&y=4 talk to both crane and crower and get thier advice

most things that work on the standard carbs work on the 4 corner idle dominators or similar carbs don,t forget to make sure the carbs linkage opens fully and smoothly and the accellorator pump,s starts squirting fuel as the carbs throttle blades open http://www.centuryperformance.com/vacuum.asp http://www.bob2000.com/carb.htm http://www.dawesdevices.com/airfuelmeter.html http://www.bgsoflex.com/holley.html http://www.goldrush.com/~rhuish/temp_data/carbtune.html http://www.mortec.com/carbtip1.htm start by making sure the other factors are correct like ignition timing and the valves are correctly adjusted start on the carb by turning all the idle screws in just till they touch the seats then back each out 1 1/2 turns, if thats not enought or too much adjust out or in on all four screws the same amount untill its close to correct and take notes set the ignition timing at 37 degrees total to start and check the full ignition curve is in bye about 3000rpm, most distributors work starting at between about 8-12 degrees initial advance, check for vacume leaks check to make sure you have about 5psi of fuel pressure minimum and about 6 psi max get a vacume gauge and tac. and use them to find max vacume at the lowest rpm that idles steady with your cam read the links

I normally braze a 1/8" thick and 1" wide steel strap from the pickup to the pump body, with a twin set of holes matching two holes in the pump body,and I braze the pickup to the pump body and carefully braze the pickup tube to the screened pickup. I also tend to favor the 5 bolt big block style pumps, with thier twin 12 tooth gears rather than the twin 7 tooth gears sbc standard pumps that are not nearly as smooth running use, WHEN THE APPLICATION ALLOWS,(some oil pans just dont have the space) I have seen dozens of similar pickup failures, or pickups that showed signs they were vibrating or coming loose, over the last 35 years or so ,but Ive never had one YET!

the damage was caused by vibration, heres a pump brace. but not a pickup brace, this helps limit the pickup vibration, http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=1735&prmenbr=361 you should also weld a sheet metal brace to the pump pickup that bolts to the lower pump housing made from 1/16"-1/8" sheet metal this will tend to prevent those pickups from breaking loose, dont forget that brazing the pickup to the pump housing helps also, just be sure that the pickup is mounted 1/2" of the oil pan floor when the pans installed before brazing or welding it to its final position, another thing comonly done is to weld a 1/2" thick NUT to the bottom of the oil pump pickup that maintains the pickup to oil pan floor distance clearance something similar but stronger than this, many high quality pickups come with braces ALL oil pump PICKUPS should have them

"Now, I need to go find a torque wrench!! " if you ask my opinion ,Id say, don,t get the real cheap crap that harbor frieght sells for $21 they refer to as a torque wrench but HOME DEPOT sells a reasonable inexpensive torque wrench heres other places to look http://www.thomasregister.com//SearchListi...1&uuid=&src=msn Tech Tips and Tricks -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Chevy Torque Settings Apr 29, 2003, 12:20 Email this article Printer friendly page These specs are for stock-type bolts with light engine oil applied to the threads and the underside of the bolt head. Other lubes, moly, and aftermarket bolts will have different torque specs. Small Chevy -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Fastener Type Torque Spec small block -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7/16 in. outer main cap bolt 65 ft.-lbs. 7/16 in. inner main cap bolt 70 ft.-lbs. 3/8 in. outer main cap bolt 40 ft.-lbs. 11/32 in. connecting rod bolt 38-44 ft.-lbs. 3/8 in. connecting rod bolt 40-45 ft.-lbs. Cylinder head bolts 65 ft.-lbs. Screw-in rocker arm studs 50 ft.-lbs. Intake manifold bolts (cast iron heads) 30 ft.-lbs. Oil pump bolt 60-70 ft.-lbs. Cam sprocket bolts 18-20 ft.-lbs. Harmonic damper bolt 60 ft.-lbs. Flywheel/flexplate bolts 65 ft.-lbs. Pressure plate bolts 35 ft.-lbs. Bellhousing bolts 25 ft.-lbs. Exhaust manifold bolts 25 ft.-lbs. Big Chevy -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Fastener Type Torque Specs -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Main cap bolt, 396-427 2-bolt 95 ft.-lbs. Main cap bolt, 396-454 4-bolt (inner/outer) 110 ft.-lbs. 3/8 in. connecting rod bolt 50 ft.-lbs. 7/16 in. connecting rod bolt 67-73 ft.-lbs. Cylinder head bolts, long 75 ft.-lbs. Cylinder head bolts, short 65-68 ft.-lbs. Screw-in rocker arm studs 50 ft.-lbs. Intake manifold bolts (cast iron head) 25 ft.-lbs. Oil pump bolt 65 ft.-lbs. Cam sprocket bolts 20 ft.-lbs. Harmonic damper bolt 85 ft.-lbs. Flywheel/flexplate bolts 60 ft.-lbs. Pressure plate bolts 35 ft.-lbs. Bellhousing bolts 25 ft.-lbs. Exhaust manifold bolts 20 ft.-lbs. http://www.hotrodshack.com/torque_settings.htm http://www.gearheadracing.com/Reference/TorqueSpecChevy.htm http://www.torquespecs.com/ http://www.2quicknovas.com/torque.html http://www.darklair.com/monte/torque_specs.html

there are several DIFFERANT scams involving engines on EBAY, you might want to stay away from anyove that won,t accept a credit card or pay pal, simply becuase if you use them and never recieve the engine you MIGHT be able to get your money back send cash or a cashiers check or money order or check and the guy sends you any piece of junk and you accept it your screwed!! http://www.clubcobra.com/t47642.html http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB17&Number=790019&Forum=UBB17&Words=scam&Match=Entire%20Phrase&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Old=1year&Main=789877&Search=true#Post790019

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the vortec head swap requires more than just the intake and heads, read this add carefully http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/Cylinder_Heads/Vortec.html youll need new center bolt valve covers and rocker arms also, while the vortec heads will work very nicely on a 327 by the time you get everthing necessary youll be very close to the price of better aftermarket heads, vortecs have pressed in rocker studs, limited valve spring clearances and smaller valves than the aluminum trickflow heads that are significantly better at producing high rpm power, remember vortecs are truck heads ment to produce maximun torque not hp http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=NAL%2DVORTECZZ5 $369 x 2 =$738 for heads http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=EDL%2D7116 $175 for intake rockers and valve covers easily cost $200 plus so vortecs true cost is over $1000 installed I would strongly suggest the TRICKFLOW ALUMINUM heads as a good choice http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=TFS%2D30400001 at $969 they are a good deal,and you can use standard valve covers,intakes and rockers the dart iron eagles are a reasonable choice but for the differance in cost I think youll see the trickflows are a better deal http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=DRT%2D10121111

while I personally seldom work on sbf engines the guys I know who do tell me that the stealth is slightly better at higher rpms, I doubt youll go wrong with either one as they tell me the diffearnces are minor

http://www.globalspec.com/ http://www.autoguide.net/partsandservices/aftermarket9.shtml http://www.nolansupply.com/links/racing.html http://www.racecareng.com/catalog/ http://www.roadsters.com/speed/ http://members.aol.com/licoa/comlinks.htm CRANE 1-386-258-6174 Tech Line CROWER 1- 619-422-1191 ERSON 1-772-882-1622 Isky 1-323-770-0930 LUNATI 1-(270) 781-9741 http://www.schneidercams.com/cams/20.htm http://www.camcraftcams.com/ http://www.englecams.com/ http://www.camtechniques.com/ http://www.crower.com/ http://www.iskycams.com/ http://www.chetherbert.com/ http://www.racehome.com/partsalphlink.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/org.htm http://home.isoa.net/~mharrisj/race.html http://www.roadcatalogs.com/ http://www.racingseat.com/links/parts.htm http://www.ramchargers.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/RCSales/main.d2w/report http://www.racepages.com/Race_Engines/ http://www.racepages.com/index.htm http://listoflists.com/Top/Sports/Auto_Racing/Business_-_Racing_Related http://350.streetracing.org/links2.htm http://www.car-stuff.com/carlinks/partsold.htm http://www.performancemarket.com/oilpan.htm http://home.isoa.net/~mharrisj/race.html http://www.racecar.co.uk/engine.html http://listoflists.com/Top/Sports/Auto_Racing/Business_-_Racing_Related http://roadsters.com/engines/ http://morechevys.homestead.com/fileindex.html http://www.quartermasterusa.com/racing.html http://www.autoguide.net/partsandservices/aftermarket9.shtml http://www.chevyworld.net/links.html http://1951chevy.homestead.com/ChevyResources.html http://www.nolansupply.com/links/racing.html http://www.racejunk.com/tech.html http://users.erols.com/srweiss/index.html#jcalc INFO YOU CAN USE buy the listed books it really will save you years and thousands of dollars in wasted effort then look this site over http://auto.howstuffworks.com/engine.htm DO YOURSELF A BIG FAVOR buy these FIVE books, it will be the best money you ever spent, read them, and you will be miles ahead of the average guy. HOW TO BUILD THE SMALL BLOCK CHEVEROLET by LARRY ATHERTON&LARRY SCHREIB . HOW TO BUILD MAX PERFORMANCE CHEVY SMALL BLOCKS ON A BUDGET by DAVID VIZARD . JOHN LINGENFELTER on modifying small-block chevy engines how to build & modify CHEVROLET small-block V-8 CAMSHAFTS & VALVTRAINS BY DAVID VIZARD SMOKEY YUNICK,S POWER SECRETS if cams are a mystery please take the time to read these, it will get you a good start, LISTED BELOW ARE SEVERAL SITES WITH INFO OR PARTS YOU MIGHT NEED http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/tech/camshaft/1.htm (read LESSONs 1-8) http://www.mercurycapri.com/technical/engine/cam/lca.html http://www.wighat.com/fcr3/confusion.htm http://www.cranecams.com/instructions/valvetrain/camfail.htm http://www.mercurycapri.com/technical/engine/cam/index.html http://www.idavette.net/hib/camcon.htm http://www.cranecams.com/master/adjustvt.htm http://www.centuryperformance.com/valveadjustment.htm http://www.totalengineairflow.com/tech/valvelashing.htm http://www.chevytalk.com/tech/engine/Cam_Selection.html http://www.chevytalk.com/tech/101/Cam_Theory.html http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/ar119736.htm http://www.mercurycapri.com/technical/engine/cam/vtg.html http://www.n2performance.com/lecture1.shtml http://www.symuli.com/vw/camp1.html http://www.symuli.com/vw/camp2.html http://home.wxs.nl/~meine119/tech/camqa.html first lets get something strait, theres two kinds of timing cam timing, the relationship of when the valves open and http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB64&Number=298166&fpart=1&PHPSESSID= you want info? we got info! http://www.diy-efi.org/diy_efi/oem/gm/tunetip.html'>http://www.diy-efi.org/diy_efi/oem/gm/tunetip.html http://www.customefis.com/ http://www.diy-efi.org/subscribe.html'>http://www.diy-efi.org/subscribe.html http://www.diy-efi.org/ http://www.fuelairspark.com/common/information/presentations/fast/001/Default_fil es/frame.htm http://pages.cpsc.ucalgary.ca/~fridman/diy_efi/ http://www.rceng.com/technical.htm#WORKSHEET http://www.speartech.com/ http://kevthompson.homestead.com/intakesEFI.html http://www.force-efi.com/fabmach.htm http://www.tunercat.com/tnr_desc/do_tc.html http://home.earthlink.net/~micfly/accel.htm http://www.sdsefi.com/ http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/AF_meter.html http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/default.htm http://www.centuryperformance.com/fuel.asp http://www.race-technology.com/WebPage/Products/ECU/ECUMain.html http://members.aol.com/bigturbo1/buick1.html http://www.turbofast.com.au/tfcalc.html http://store.yahoo.com/dpstore/elpar.html http://www.geocities.com/softtailduece01/ http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html http://www.aempower.com/ems.htm# http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/general_instr/general_instr.html http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm/

I get asked frequently if installing a larger than the stock 48mm TPI throttle body will significantly help on a corvette engine, Ill save you some reading right off if you want, yes a 58mm can potentially increase hp if your engines highly modified and your still useing a stock 48mm throttle body but the restriction a stock 48mm throttle body represents is not as significant and the gains to be had are not that large in most cases, your intake manifold and cam plus your heads are the major restrictions. the stock 48mm throttle body flows about 700cfm and has more than enough flow to support about 475hp-500hp, bored to 52mm it will support about 500hp,-525hp, a 58mm can support about 600hp, but keep in mind theres lots of factors other than just throttle body size that determine potential hp using or modifying a throttle body to flow more than 1000cfm -1200 cfm like a 58mm twin bore potentially flows is a waste of money, heres why the largest displacement sbc your likely to build is a 434cid, that requires a 4" stroke crank and youll be limited to about 6500rpm even with top quality parts if you want the engine to last any time at all, now you might not realize it but the time necessary to fill the cylinders gets limited very quickly at higher rpms and the volumetric efficiency falls off quickly after about 5000rpm simply because theres just not enought time to allow the cylinders to fill completely. at 5000 rpm theres 41.6 intake strokes per second, per cylinder, by 6500 rpm its up to 54 intake strokes per second, per cylinder thats only 0.018 seconds for the intake port to flow into the cylinder per intake stroke. but theres yet another factor!!! thats the time for the full intake stroke!!!, while theres 720 degrees in the repetitive cycle and Ive given you a full 360 degrees worth of time, the truth is that your cam/engine combo, seldom allows anywhere near that duration!!!! even a radical race cam seldom exceeds 250 degrees in effective duration for port flow, so youll need to knock about 45% off that time, now your down to only about 0.012 seconds or less of effective flow per intake stroke per cylinder, is it any wonder the cylinder can,t fully fill at high rpms?? now the theoretical 434 were working with here even if it could fill its cylinders 100% at 6500rpm which is totally impossiable at that rpm would require 434 (the displacement) x 3250(the number of intake strokes)=1410500 (the full 100% in cubic inches /1728(to change to cfm) = only 816cfm.... now even if you could ram tune the exhaust and intake pulse perfectly and get the cylinders to pack the cylinders to 120% (a total impossability without a supercharger or turbo) thats till only 979 fcm but in the real world your volumetric efficincy falls off fast after 5000 rpm with a 4" stroke and youll be exceptionally lucky to pull 80% efficiency at over 5000rpm drop your displacement to a more comon 383 and your rpm limit to the fairly comon 6500rpm and youll drop even the theoretical air flow requirement to below 875cfm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calchpaf.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calccarb.htm heres the ramjet ZL1 454 http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/ChevyBigBlockV8s/ramjetzl1.html yeah you might not believe it but it got a stock 48mm twin bore TPI style chevy throttle body feeding that 454 engine, do you think chevy would do that if it was a significant restriction to hp production?? the restriction is not the throttle body its the port size, valve size and flow the heads have and intake manifold runers restriction,and cam lift and duration... install an intake manifold,cam and heads that can flow 300cfm and the 58mm aftermarket throttle body will still effectively feed the engine, remember that while even 300cfm ports at full flow only pull air about 250 degrees out of 720 degrees in the cycle and are spaced 90 degrees apart, that means that 1000cfm can feed all 8 cylinders a full 833cfm they could in theory flow ,and that 300cfm per port can support roughtly 600hp

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if youll check carefully youll find those heads cost $6000 plus then theres minor block work , at one tine I was very interested in a set and asked for specs and 5 refererances from current owners as I felt that before spending that amount of money I should at least talk to some guys that had them, at that point their engineer promissed to send referances but only resent advertizing, further emails were ignored, THEY REFUSED TO ANSWER ALL FURTHER EMAILS my advise would be to talk to several people(preferably in differant states) other than the guys building those heads BEFORE ordering a set at those prices at that point I started asking questions at the tracks, results were that no one I could find had ever seen a COMPETATIVE engine running them, their use seemed limited to car show trailer queens heres the LAST EMAIL THEY SENT, NOTHING MORE WAS EVER RESPONDED TO PAUL, MY APOLOGIES, ARE IN NEED HERE . I HAD ALOT GOING ON THIS WEEK.ACTUALLY EVERY BODY DID!I HAVE MOST OF THE INFO. READY FOR YOU . I AM WAITING HOW EVER FOR OUR NEWEST IN CAR DYNO TEST RESULTS TO GET HERE.I KNOW THEY PRODUCED ABOUT 600H.P TO THE REAR WHEELS WITH AN EVERYDAY DECENT STREET MOTOR IN AN ALL STEEL 1956 CHEVY STEPSIDE TUCK .SO I DO APOLOGIZE FOR THE DELAY.I HAVE ADDED CHEVYTALK TO OUR LINKS PAGE AND I'VE TAKEN SOME TIME TO READ SOME OF THEIR FORUM CHATS AND WAS VERY HAPPY WITH SOME INFO I WAS ABLE TO FIND . I ALSO WANTED TO THANK YOU FOR YOUR INSIGHT ABOUT OUR 32valve HEADS. I WILL GET THAT MAILED OUT THIS WEEK. THANKS ALOT, DAVEB (ARAO ENGINEERING)

the 461 heads in stock config flow 216/137 cfm they are junk by todays standards its basically the same casting and flow as the 462 heads part # 3849346 Mech. 254/254 dur .485"/.485" lift 114 LSA 327/365HP & Z-28 302 cam is 34 year old technology, again junk by todays standards horsepower is basically gained from effectively filling and burning the greatest amount of fuel/air mix at the highest compression you can to make the max cylinder pressure you can within the limits of rpm,displacement and fuel quality todays better designs in cylinder heads allow lower ignition advance, faster flame fronts, less detonation,and wider torque curves look heres modern vortec truck heads now the vortec heads are better but look what good heads flow those modern designed heads have about a 18% better flow potential over most of the rpm range, thats worth at least another 40-50 additional hp I can tell you from building several 301-327 cid engines in years past that the crane 114681 solid lifter cam thats got less duration and more lift significantly out performs the original Z28 cam ESPECIALLY when matched too the better heads the ONLY reason they ran 302 displacement engines was the 5 liter displacement limit in trans am racing, anyone without a displacement limit would have used a 377 or 406 as they put out a good deal more useful torque/horspower curve if you have a DD-2000 program play with the specs and see for yourself

sure run this thru dd-2000 a crane 114681 solid flat tappet cam 1.6 ratio roller rockers afr 195cc heads 10.7:1 cpr 1 5/8" full length headers with merge collectors and (an (X) just as close to the collectors as you can get it) a EDELBROCK SY1 intake (its entered as a tunnel ram on the software)(youll need to find one on EBAY)they are designed for a single carb and to fit under the 69 Z28 hood and give tunnel ram flow with more mid range torque on a 302,if you can,t find one the offy cross ram is still in production and a good substitute available from these guys last time I checked http://www.pawengineparts.com/cataloginfo.html and yeah they were available with either a single or dual carb top last time I checked but almost everyone goes with the dual 4v carbs yes you could just keep things simple, and cheaper, and use a edelbrock vic,JR single plane intake but youll loose some mid range torque if you do! and a 800 vac secondary holley carb use 4.56 -4.88 rear gears so youll stay between 4500rpm and 7500rpm racing now copy the hp tq curve numbers and change the stroke to 3.875" and the bore to 4.060" on the dd-2000, now look at the tq curve,you should notice WHY I sugguest a stroker combo is the better choice for a street car........notice the rpm level where the power is and the much more useable torque curve for street use, now with the stroker 3.73-4.11 gears are a better match and the chance of getting into valve float is greatly reduced

you need to carefully think out your goals and budget, and match the engine components and gearing,this is not intended to be an exact combo, rather its just a way to get you thinking I really hate to keep pointing this out but its a flat out fact that a good set of aftermarket heads matched to a good performance cam are the best performance upgrades your likely to add to an engine, Dart Iron Eagle 200cc/64cc heads 2.02/1.6 valves, your choice of angle plug or straight plug. 7/16 or 3/8 studs and guideplates. They come with a performance 3 angle valve job and professionally assembled with Manley Race Flow valves. Springs are 1.46 diameter crane dual spings that will handle a .600 lift. http://www.parts123.com/PartFrame.asp?ZTM=cadegeca&GHOME=www.dirttrackthunder.com&TITLE=Dirt_Track_Thunder yeah, Im aware moneys tight and those stock heads SEEM TO BE a good deal but trust me on this! youll kick yourself for wasting the money later if you buy stock heads. read this http://www.chevyasylum.com/chp/Welcome.html then look over this carefully http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos1.html the one thing you should notice is that ALL the better combos have aftermarket heads and a cam that takes advantage of the better flowing heads btw http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Products/AMS/AMSM/300-36.html you can pick up one of these intakes on EBAY NEW for about $125 or less and they provide excellent performance with most street combos, an easy 15 hp or greater improvement over a stock cast intake on many engines matched to a cam like this it can be a very noticable improvement http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Products/IEC/IECC/Chevy4.html Best performing REAL street cam. Lope at idle, works power brakes, etc. For 350-400 HOT 'daily-drivers', 4WDs, P/Us, etc. 276 276 221 221 0.454 0.454 0.303 0.303 110 104 7° BTDC 34° ABDC 46° BBDC 5° BTDC 301A6LUN UH4 UH4 01-UH4-UH4-10-A01 or if you want to push to the limits on a nearly stock combo somrething like this Big street cam for 350s, popular in 383-406. Lopey idle, will work power brakes. Power 1000 to 5800. 276 286 221 230 0.454 0.454 0.303 0.303 112 106 5° BTDC 36° ABDC 51° BBDC 1° BTDC 301A8LUN UH4 UH9 01-UH4-UH9-12-A01 this second cam works very nicely with a 150 nitrous kit installed, the longer exhaust duration and wider LSA allows you to get more effect from the nitrous this crane grind has proven to be exceptionally versital and loves nitrous and higher than stock 10.5-11:1 compression and rear gears in the 3.73-4.11 range http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=114681&lvl=2&prt=5 if your starting from just a block it makes little sence to build a 350 when the cost of a good 383 is so close Pro Performance kit includes: *SCAT 9000 Series Crankshaft (NEW CAST STEEL Not Reground) *5.7" SCAT 4130 Bushed rods *Wiseco Pro Tru Forged Pistons PT017H Flat Top 2VR (10.8:1 with 64cc) *Plasma Moly Performance Rings *Clevite Rod Bearings *Clevite Main Bearings The entire assembly is Professionally race balanced. Pistons w/rings, Rods, and Crankshaft. NOT A CHEAP CLAIMER BALANCE. UPGRADE OPTIONS Prowler 4340 H Beam Rods $150 Eagle 4340 Forged Crankshaft $420 Clevite H bearings (Rod and Main)are part of the crank upgrade. . http://www.parts123.com/PartFrame.asp?ZTM=cadegeca&GHOME=www.dirttrackthunder.com&TITLE=Dirt_Track_Thunder Circle Track Oil Pan Features include: 8 Quart Capacity Dual Kickout 5 Trap Doors to Control Oil Movement Crankscraper Windage Tray Oil Temperature Boss When using a HV pump you must use pickup WA7102. 8 Quart Dual Kickout Oil Pan 5 gates,Crankscraper and Windage Tray 7101R $89.00 Each yeah im aware you must spend about $2900-$3500 or more but youll have a very effective , much stronger than stock combo when your done

vote the jerks pushing that liberal agenda out of office on the state and national levels, its just that simple, if you let them they will force everyone to run electic hybrid cars let them know your very pissed off about thier screwing with your cars! let them know constantly why youll continue to vote against them, organize letter writing and phone call campains, the only thing government lackys fear is being thrown from cushy jobs and not having a way to run your life! fire the S.O.B.s and rplace them with guys that appreciate your views BUSH WON and GORE lost by only several hundred votes, that comes down to just a few hundred guys that felt that the GORE way of government was the WRONG way to go about things, GORE was constantly against hunting and performance cars, the numbers say the equivalent of the members of single corvette,or hunting club could and did make the differance

if youll post the rules, and budget your working with, Ill take a look and suggest something but not knowing the car weight,displacement,gearing, trans type,head restrictions,octane limits,cam,lift/duration,or compression limits makes guessing useless at this point,

lets look a a few things gentelmen http://home.austin.rr.com/turbolexus/Misc/Forced_Induction_Dyno_Calc.htm http://wahiduddin.net/calc/density_altitude.htm http://www.wahiduddin.net/calc/calc_hp_dp.htm heres a good source of some parts http://www.ramairbox.com/product.html an engine is basically an air pump, the denser the air (colder air is denser) the more oxygen the air contains and the more efficintly fuel can be burnt and the more fuel can be burnt, first thing you need to understand is its the differance in oxygen content of lower temp air (denser air) that the engine sees not the temp. itself that effects the differance in potential hp any system that sucks hot air from the engine compartment is not going to be very effective! but a system that uses cool air routed from a high pressure area of the car at speed can significantly help engine power , while the differance may be only 2% , better power above 100mph, that could easily be 8-12 hp on a basically stock corvette, in your favor, more than enought to win, against a similar not so equiped of equal power. a correctly designed hoodscoop or under the bumper cold air intake can effectively lower the temp of the air entering the cylinders by 60 degrees or more, if that intake design is placed in a high pressure area at the front of the car or base of the windshield you can potentially gain a small amount of additional air density at higher speeds, while your not gaining anything much at 30mph, once you pass about 80mph theres a measurable differance in potential power to be gained depending on the cool air intake design and placement theres hundreds of designs some good, some useless but a car with a correctly designed ram air system can easily gain 2-3% in hp over a similar car not so equiped at speeds over 100mph keep in mind that 2% might put your car only a few feet ahead in a race but it takes only inches to WIN http://www.up22.com/scoopw2.htm#SC-150 stick your hand out the window next time your going 80mph, notice the air resistance?? well a correctly designed air intake can effectively boost intsake pressure by over 1psi at high speeds and lower intake air temp by 60 degrees compared to under hood temps, play with the calculators youll see that 2%-4% hp gains or greater results are remarkably easy to obtain AT HIGHER SPEEDS

heres what they suggest MAKE YOUR OWN OCTANE BOOST How to make your own octane booster (this is the basic formula of one of the popular octane booster products). To make eight 16 ounce bottles (128 oz = 1 gal): 100 oz of toulene for octane boost 25 oz of mineral spirits (cleaning agent) 3 oz of transmission fluid (lubricating agent) This product is advertised as "octane booster with cleaning agent *and* lubricating agent!". Diesel fuel or kerosene can be substituted for mineral spirits and light turbine oil can be substituted for transmission fluid. Color can be added with petroleum dyes. Disclaimer: this intellectual property is offered to GN/TType owners at no charge. Use it at your own risk. The GN/TType Organization is is not responsible for any damage or problems associated with use of this information. This information is for use by GN/TType owners on their own personal vehicles and may not be used for profit. Ive been using a simple mix of (use at your own risk, it works fine in my corvette but it might not in yours) 2 gallons of toulene 2 quarts of mineral spirits 1 pint of marvel mystery oil 1 quart of 50% nitro model airplane fuel don,t forget to check your ignition timing is not to far advanced then add the mix to your tank and fill with 93 octane gas, youll notice the differance in how the engine runs after about 5 minutes (paint stores like benjimin moore and sherwin williams,and RADIO CONTROL hobby shops are where you get the fuel components) http://www.hobby-warehouse.com/hobby-warehouse/wilquicracfu1.html

how about moth balls? do yourself a little test, get some moth balls and drop them into a glass filled with gas and let them sit for a few hours (then you tell me if you want that slime clogging your fuel system?) mothballs orriginally were ether and champher, that would dissolve in gas, today they are plastic granuals mixed with a differant assortment of insecticides plus aromic ethers YOU DON,T WANT IN YOUR ENGINE

things to read http://www.vtr.org/maintain/gasoline-octane.html http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/misc/octanebooster.html http://www.team.net/sol/tech/octane_b.html http://www.turbofast.com.au/racefuel8.html http://www.turbofast.com.au/racefuel4.html http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/detonation/detonation.html http://www.vettenet.org/octane.html http://home.att.net/~wildbillscorvette/prod01a.htm (not for 02 sensor equiped cars) now some of you guys may not realize it but theres a good deal of EXTRA hp available in a LARGER DISPLACEMENT STROKER ENGINE COMBO that runs higher than comon compression and a matching cam and better flowing cylinder heads , but that same combo can be loosing alot of power if you need to back off the ignition timing to prevent detonation,if your running close to detonation range you might need a little octane booster to keep you out of trouble