grumpyvette

I wonder how sticking one of the magnets to the outside of the pan would work? THEY WORK ALMOST AS WELL,ON THE OOUTSIDE, THE ONLY PROBLEM IS THAT THEY CAN GET REMOVED FAR EASIER FROM THE OUTSIDE OF THE OIL PAN Would you still have enough magnetic force to catch metallic particles? HELL YES! Would it fall off? HIGHLY UNLIKELY,JUST TRY AND REMOVE ONE YOULL SEE WHY Duct tape to help secure it? NO! Be nice to get the benefits and not have to drop the pan to install it. PUT THEM ON THE PLACES ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE OIL PAN WHERE THEY ARE VERY UNLIKELY TO BE REMOVED ACCIDENTLY

Those magnets shure look like the ones out of a computer hard drive. they may be! "An excellent value for a surplus NdFeB magnet. These magnets are identical in shape to item #2, but larger in all dimensions. These are 0.155" thick(a little over 1/8"). One of these will easily pick up 50 pounds. Like most surplus hard drive magnets, these are magnetized through the thickness. Exactly half of the magnet is North, and half is South. These seem to be of reasonably high grade, probably MGOe35 or better. They are Nickel plated. but they lift 40 plus lbs each if they are the same ones! and they work great at trapping metallic dust!

use a drift to drive out the roll pin holding the remains of the gear then a couple wacks with a plasitic mallet shold get the gear off easily. GET THOSE MAGNETS AND INSTALL THEM,YOUR ENGINE IS FULL OF METALLIC DUST,THE GEARS DID NOT DISOLVE THEY WERE TURNED INTO FINE METALLIC DUST THAT HOPEFULLY GOT MOSTLY TRAPPED IN YOUR FILTER BUT SOME IS WITHOUT ANY DOUBT LOOSE IN THE ENGINE ...INSTALL THE MAGNETS

read and take notes http://64.90.9.168/cranecams/pdf/257g.pdf http://64.90.9.168/cranecams/pdf/323e.pdf The bottom of a Chevrolet distributor housing can be modified to spray pressurized oil onto the distributor drive gear. The extra lubrication will reduce distributor gear and camshaft gear wear. This is especially important when the gear is used to drive non-standard accessories, such as a high volume oil pump, or a magneto that puts additional loads on it and the cam. When the distributor is installed, the bands at the bottom of the housing are designed to complete the internal right side lifter galley on all small and big block Chevrolet V-8 and 90° V-6 engines. If you hand file a small vertical groove .030" wide x .030 thats the diam. that crane recommends Ive always used the larger groove with no problems deep on the bottom band (above the gear), pressurized oil running between the two bands will be directed downward onto both the gear and the cam This procedure is recommended for all Chevrolet engines no matter what material gear (cast or bronze) or what type of camshaft (cast or steel) you are using keep in mind the groove MUST be lined up with the cam gear when the distrib. is installed http://www.chevytalk.org/forums/Forum64/HTML/008887.html BTW I always stick four of these magnets in the corners of the oil pan sump , you will be amazed at how much metalic dust they pick out of the oil and keep from getting to your bearings,(either one works fine) http://www.wondermagnet.com/dev/magnet2.html http://www.wondermagnet.com/dev/magnet42.html these are NOT THE REFRIFERATOR MAGNETS YOU PLAYED WITH AS A KID!....ONE OF THESE CAN PICK UP A CYLINDER HEAD

in most cases the edelbrock rpm air gap dual plane intakes is one of the best choices on the street, and on your combo it may be the best choice but if your looking for MAX top rpm hp the edeldbrock super vic is an outstanding choice, YES YOULL LOOSE SOME low rpm TQ but on a light car that CAN be a slight advantage, as it limits tire smoke off the line and trades more hp in the upper rpm ranges where the tires can handle it better! Ive had the best results with the EDELBROCK SUPER VIC, in fact after running the weiand team G, and strip dominator, the Victor Jr. #2975,Super Victor #2925 , and power plus hurricane, and holley single plane THE Super Victor #2925 IS THE BEST RUNNING BY A SLIGHT MARGIN ON ALMOST EVERY ENGINE IVE TESTED IT ON . BTW use a holley or demon 750cfm-850 cfm carb in fact IVE given up even bothering to test any more, I just buy a super vic and 850 carb when Im building a kick butt 383-406 small block with 210cc-220cc heads and a roller cam combo thats ment only for kicking butt with no other design purposes

http://www.motionsoftware.com/support.htm http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/ar110047.htm http://www.chevyasylum.com/dyno2000/cams/'>http://www.chevyasylum.com/dyno2000/cams/ http://www.chevyasylum.com/dyno2000/ http://home.pacbell.net/mtm68/camfiles.html http://www.smokemup.com/utils/cams.php http://avs.epix.net/schorrperformance/cams/_ChevySB_280-295.htm http://avs.epix.net/schorrperformance/cams/_ChevySB_279.htm

sleave the blocks bad cylinder and put it back togeather with new rings and bearings $300-$350 should get you back on the street!

read this http://www.idavette.net/hib/camcon.htm http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/148_0307_roller/ CALL ASK LOTS OF QUESTIONS CRANE 1-386-258-6174 Tech Line CROWER 1- 619-422-1191 ERSON 1-772-882-1622 ultradyne Tech. Phone 662-393-8511 Isky 1-323-770-0930 LUNATI 1-(270) 781-9741 http://www.schneidercams.com/cams/20.htm http://www.camcraftcams.com/ http://www.englecams.com/ http://www.camtechniques.com/ http://www.crower.com/ http://www.iskycams.com/ http://www.chetherbert.com/ LOOK OVER THESE ENGINE BUILDS, http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos1.html http://chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/71298/index.html http://www.chevymania.com/dyno/ NOTICE MOST OF THE HIGH HP BUILDUPS HAVE THREE THINGS IN COMON GOOD AFTERMARKET HEADS LARGE DISPLACEMENT heres a few Ive used tHAT WORK WELL! http://dab7.cranecams.com/SpecCard/DisplayCatalogCard.asp?PN=119661&B1=Display+Card ROLLER CAM http://dab7.cranecams.com/SpecCard/DisplayCatalogCard.asp?PN=119831&B1=Display+Card http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/cam_finder.php?part_num=00471&x=40&y=15

here you want plug info? we got plug info! http://www.acdelco.com/html/pi_plugs_ident.htm http://www.atlanticjetsports.com/_techtalk/00000005.htm http://www.ngkspark.com.au/spark_plug_cross_ref_chart_index3.htm http://www.strappe.com/plugs.html http://www.babcox.com/editorial/cm/cm59910.htm http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/partnumberkey.pdf http://www.eric-gorr.com/techarticles/sparkplugs.html http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/engine/plugs.html http://www.tsrsoftware.com/sparkplug.htm http://www.racinghelp.com/read_spark_plugs.html http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/overviewp2.asp http://www.projectbasketcase.com/menus/ignition.html

http://www.hydroboost.com/products/C3aCorvette/index.html

"Is all this worth thinking about?" it depends mostly on your engine combo and performance priorities, if the car is going to have max performance the stall speed needs to be within about 1000rpm of the tq peak rpm, (thats normally in the 2700rpm-4200rpm range) if the cars prorities are more in line with mileage, then a stall speed in the 1500-1800rpm range will work. ideally youll want the cars gearing and stall speed to keep the engine between 1000rpm under the tq peak and about 1000rpm over max hp peak at all times http://www.autotransinc.com/stall.htm http://hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=23306

the MOST the stock TPI came with factory rated was 245hp first year http://www.rogerscorvette.com/specs/85.htm last year http://www.netvettes.com/1991.html with port work you can get in the low 300 hp range BUT ITS BASICALLY A WASTE OF TIME AND MONEY,it only flows about 200cfm stock and fully ported flows about 230-240cfm READ THIS http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z28/winter01/dyno/dyno021105/webpage021105.html heres a custom lowered version of the stealth ram efi that MAKES AN EASY 30-90 hp more than a TPI (DEPENDS ON ENGINE COMBO)with more than 1" more hood clearance (about 8.7-9" tall depenging on minor mods) http://fasterdeals.com/vette/index.html IT FLOWS ABOUT 275cfm OUT OF THE BOX AND PORTED FLOWS ABOUT 300CFM,THATS A HUGE IMPROVEMENT WORTH EASILY MEASURED HP OVER ANY TPI, WITH IMPROVED HEADS AND CAM A 30-90 HP INCREASE DUE TO FAR LOWER AIRFLOW RESTRICTION IS POTENTIALLY POSSIABLE AND SEVERAL ENGINES HAVE SHOWN 60-80 HP IMPROVEMENTS WITH MILD MODS heres the holley standard version (JUST OVER 10" tall)

I run 2.5" off headers to a Y connector to single 2.5" the last 4' throught the muffler. Thought it might be killing my top end? I think youll find that you will have some improvement by routeing the two 2.5" in pipes to a 3" muffler in and out for the last 4' look at it this way, a single 2.5" pipe has aproximatly 4.5 sq inches of internal cross section so your feeding about 9 sq inches of flow into 4.5" of flow for the last 4'. a 3" pipe would have about 7 sq inches of area or about 57% less restriction a 3.5" pipe has about 9.6 sq inches and would in effect have little or no restriction compared to the two 2.5" pipes here this might interest you http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/flomstr1e.htm http://www.victorylibrary.com/mopar/header-tech-c.htm http://www.pagerealm.com/fbody/pipe.html

"The one thing I noticed though is that my torque drops like a rock after about 5,200 rpm. It goes from about 300 lb-ft to about 250 lb-ft by 5,800 rpm. Could that be caused by a restrictive exhaust or is it something else?" Id look at restrictive exhaust, but Id also look at carb air flow retrictions,intake and cylinder head restrictions, cam timing,ignition timing curve, and most likely of all, valve train harmonics, or weak valve springs without damper springs entering valve float or the lifters pumping up if your useing hydrolic lifters and the valves are adjusted on the tight side of the preload range ,(one of the reasons I prefer only 1/4 turn preload after the click stops at idle when the valves are adjusted on a hot engine) look here http://www.airflowresearch.com/ (Hydraulic Roller Rev Kits)

rod bolts are one of the most highly stressed engine parts ARP is the most comonly available better quality bolts, YOU SHOULD have a MACHINE SHOP RESIZE the rods after swapping bolts to make sure they are correctly fitted and the rod does not get distorted durring the process,(SOMETHING THATS EASY TO DO BTW) http://www.arp-bolts.com/ http://www.arp-bolts.com/pages/products/pages/rodbolts/links/pro_sers.html http://www.arp-bolts.com/media/pdf_files/rod_chart.pdf BTW in most cases a set of AFTERMARKET rods ALREADY FITTED with ARP rod bolts may be CHEAPER than buying the BETTER QUALITY ROD BOLTS PLUS THE MACHINE WORK FOR BOTH MAG TESTING,POLLISHING,AND FITTING THE NEW ROD BOLT,RESIZING THE RODS, AND ARE FAR STRONGER ANYWAY EXAMPLE Scat H-Beam Rod Features: Forged from a multi-stage heat-treated 4340 steel two piece forging Each rod is X-ray tested, sonic tested, and magna-fluxed to insure quality All surfaces are shot peened to stress relieve material Precision sized and balanced right here in the USA on state-of-the-art equipment Silicon bronze bushings for floating piston wrist pins Precision alignment sleeves positively locate the rod cap 7/16" ARP 8740 cap screw rod bolts (190,000 psi) with 12 point heads Fully profiled rod for stroker engines and cam clearance Weight matched sets to ± 1 grams Horsepower rating: To 700 HP RPM Rating: to 8000 RPM http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33623&item=2421663291 those 7/16" rod bolts are far stronger than any 3/8" rod bolts you can fit to stock rods, and even properly preped stock rods are suspect of failure at 450-500hp, keep in mind stress is cumulative, just because the engine does not fail the first or the 500th time you spin the engine to 7000rpm DOES NOT MEAN THE ROD BOLTS WERE NOT OVER STRESSED

"First off let me start by saying that when I grow up I hope to know as much about cars and engines as you." I HAVE NEVER EVEN HINTED THAT I WAS SMARTER THAN ANY OTHER PERSON ON THIS OR ANY OTHER SITE, YOUR OPINION IS EVERY BIT AS VALUABLE AS MINE, WE ARE BOTH HERE TO EXHANGE IDEAS,I TRY TO SUPPORT MY POSITION WITH FACTS AT ALL TIMES,IM ONLY SAYING THAT I LEARN FROM MY OWN MISTAKES,AND HAVE A GOOD CAPACITY TO LEARN FROM OTHER PEOPLES MISTAKES , and RETAIN ALMOST ALL DATA,AND RESEARCH ANSWERS, BEFORE WORKING ON ANYTHING, PLUS I ENJOY TEACHING look at it from a basic physics point of view. Power is a measure of the ability to do work. Horsepower and kilowatts are simply different units for measuring the same thing. They have exactly the same relationship as meters and feet. there the basic flaw in your logic, torque can do work without rpm, example, if you used a large lever about 8 feet long you could move a car thru a 1/4 mile in 1320 one foot long shoves on the bumper with the tip wedged behind the bumper and the ground TORQUE= the tangential force F? times the lever arm r. In a way we are arguing wording. TRUEYou are saying HP is derived from torque. I am saying yeah, you could look at it that way there is no other way but you could just as well say that torque is derived from HP.false, (torque x rpm/5252 = hp) "torque is force over distance" Taking it a step further I am also saying you are actually better off thinking about torque as being a function of power and not the other way around. wrong , only because you can,t have hp without TQ, but you CAN HAVE TQ without HP What I really think is important is that power is very real, and more importantly, it is power that determines how fast a car can go. true For example, given an engine running there you go adding RPM and TQat a constant speed I can generate virtually any level of torque I want (either up or down) by selecting the appropriate gear ratio. However there is nothing a transmission can do to increase power. true The "power" out of the transmission can never be higher than the power going into the transmission. This is the first law of thermodynamics. trueThe same is obviously not true for torque. In this case you are better off thinking of torque as a function of engine power and gearing. only if your willing to realize that both tq and rpm are required to measure hp but only tq (force x leverage plus distance) is nessasary to do work You said Quote: ITS IMPOSSIABLE to have HP without BOTH tq and RPM and that power is only torque times a measurable rpm level at which the TORQUE IS MEASURED AT. If you follow the equation that HP is torque times RPM, then that statement makes sense. However if you take a physical interpretation of power then the statement is misleading.

"why is there no need for further spark advance? How is it possible for accelleration to continue? " the chevys spark plug is located much more towards the exhaust side of the cylinder dia. than would be ideal. it takes approximately 40 thousands of a second for the flame from the ignition to cross a 4"-4.25" bore,at low rpms and still takes about 15 milliseconds at high RPM due to the much faster movement of the compressed fuel air mix in the cylinders, lets look at what that means if the chevy plug is located 4/5ths of the way to one side thats a time of about 32 thousands for the pressure to build as the flame travels 3.4" in the chevy this of course speeds up as the swirl and turbulance increase with increased engine RPMs and piston speed and the increase in the speed fuel air mix trapped in the quench area is increaseingly thrown from the sides of the cylinder into the center cylinder area, increaseing the burn speed b] this results in more useable energy WORKING on the piston AFTER IT PASSES TOP DEAD CENTER ON THE POWER STROKE. BUT MODERN WEDGE combustion chambers use increased QUENCH to speed the flame front and lower the burn time combined with a smaller combustion chamber and a more centrally located spark plug to get even better results than the older designs, even CHRYSLERS new (HEMI) is really a very shallow combustion chamber like a modified wedge to better use QUENCH and swirl to speed burn times http://naca.larc.nasa.gov/reports/1939/naca-tm-914/ http://www.me.gatech.edu/energy/ICEngines/8_CylinderCombustionProcesses.pdf http://www.combustion-net.com/library/articles/PDFs/0210-spark-ignition-engine-cycle.pdf http://www.nedians.8m.com/Comp_IC.html http://mb-soft.com/public2/engine.html http://hpp.primediaautomotive.com/archives/tech/0209hpp_fire.shtml BTW most people dont realize that almost all USEFULL cylinder pressure is providing pressure on the piston only about 24-30 degrees past TDC on the power stroke of the whole 720 degree repetitive cycle look at this chart http://www.iskycams.com/ART/techinfo/ncrank1.pdf notice the piston has only moved less than 1/3" inch down the bore by that time, thats one of the reasons longer rods with their better rod angle can help at high rpms, at 7000 rpm that piston only has .0007 secounds to allow that cylinder pressure to exert useable pressure on the piston, note that the burn time and the cylinder filling efficiency falls off fast after about 4500rpm so power PER stroke starts to fall off also,yet the number of power strokes per minute increases so over all power will continue to increase at least for awhile above that point

Jim Powers "Horsepower is very real, just as real as torque" . I know what your saying makes sence in that you cam change the equation and get the tq from a hp level BUT...your not reading what IM saying correctly, ..look at it this way, you can have TQ without hp but ITS IMPOSSIABLE to have HP without BOTH tq and RPM and that power is only torque times a measurable rpm level at which the TORQUE IS MEASURED AT. . "HP is a measure of power, the exact same thing as kilowatts." not strictly true, yes hp levels can be converted to kilowatts but thats torque measured at a set rpm level equals "power" (the rate at which that torque can be applied) which can mathimatically be related to "kilowatts" in that it takes (X) amount of power to supply a set size load (that 100 watt light bulb) ITS IMPOSSIABLE to have HP without BOTH tq and RPM and that power is only torque times a measurable rpm level at which the TORQUE IS MEASURED AT.

glad to help out

first thing to keep in mind is that theres no such "thing" as horsepower, horsepower is a mathmatical formula for the RATE at which TORQUE can be applied the formula for hp is (tq x rpm/5252=hp example 450 ft lbs of torque at 3000rpm=257hp 450 ft lbs of torque at 6000rpm=514hp because the torque at the higher rpm useing gearing can be applied faster here read this http://www.69mustang.com/hp_torque.htm http://www.ubermensch.org/Cars/Technical/hp-tq/ http://vette.ohioracing.com/hp.html where most guys go wrong is in not correctly matching the cars stall speed and gearing to the cars tq curve, if you mod the engine for increased high rpm performance but fail to also match the stall speed and gearing to that higher rpm tq curve much of the potential improvement is wasted. example in the close to stock engine above, the engine should be geared to stay in the 3500rpm-5000rpm range for max acceleration (lower in the rpm range if mileage is a big factor) in the moded engine above the rpm range moved to 4000rpm-6500rpm requireing differant rear gears and slightly higher stall speeds to gain max acceleration in the same car, you should readily see that a trans that shifts at 5000rpm will work in the first example but would waste most of the power curve in the second example,where shifting at 6500rpm under full power acelleration would make more sence. a 3.08 rear gear and 700r4 trans matches the first example well but it would take a swap to a 3.73-4.11 gear to allow the engine in the second example to keep its most effective power band matching that second power curve well. links youll need to figure out correct rear gear ratios http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html http://www.wallaceracing.com/reargear.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcmph.htm http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/transmission_300zx_tt.html http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcrpm.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcrgr.htm http://www.prestage.com/Car+Math/Ge...io/default.aspx http://www.geocities.com/z28esser/speed.html http://server3003.freeyellow.com/gparts/speedo.htm http://www.pontiacracing.net/trannyratios.htm http://www.tciauto.com/tech_info/gear_ratios.htm

427,454 30 1/2" long(with waterpump and fan) 29" tall (pan to air cleaner) 28" wide (with exhaust manifolds 25" without exhaust manifolds)weight 685lbs (all iron)(deduct about 60lbs for aluminum heads and intake) BTW a 427-540 BBC engine while only weighing about 60 lbs more than an all iron sbc if its got aluminum heads and intake has a HUGE ADVANTAGE in potential hp/tq due to its larger displacement and heads that flow far more air, even oval port heads can produce 600 plus hp http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/7062/engine.html http://www.team.net/sol/tech/engine.html http://www.tciauto.com/tech_info/trans_dims.htm things to read http://fly.hiwaay.net/~ppatter/patrick_budd_article.htm http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/7161pp.html heres a combo I know works well (its similar to the engine that pushed my bbc corvette to low 10s ) 4.310 bore 4.25 stroke 13.7 cpr AFR 325cc As Cast Magnum BBC Heads edelbrock super vic intake 1050 holley carb crane solid roller http://dab7.cranecams.com/SpecCard/DisplayCatalogCard.asp?PN=138791&B1=Display+Card 250hp nitrous plate milodon windage screen 2.125 full length headers manual trans 4.11 gears DD-2000 GUESSES at about 900 plus hp/tq a friends camaro runs low 10 sec. at 3100 lbs with a new engine like that. a properly set up (Z) with good roll cage and suspension/slicks would easily run slightly faster NO! its not going to run on pump gas without some xylene/toluene http://www.vtr.org/maintain/gasoline-octane.html http://www.team.net/sol/tech/octane_b.html http://www.diabolicalperformance.com/hotrodoctane.html

I am working on a new method that will revolutionize the whole industry! NO!....YOU DON,T MEAN,IT!....REVOLUTIONIZE THE INDUSTRY!!!.........YOUR REALLY SUGGESTING.....PEOPLE THAT WORK ON CARS.....NO! ...........I JUST DON,T BELEIVE YOUR SUGGESTING PEOPLE ACTUALLY LEARN WHAT THEIR DOING!!!!!!! TRUE IT WOULD....REVOLUTIONIZE.... THE INDUSTRY!!!......... BUT HOW ARE YOU GOING TO GET THEM TO READ THE INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE THEY SCREW UP!!!! the dots on the crank and cam gear were put that way so the early mechanics could put them 12/12 and line them with a strait edge on the crank and cam centerlines, THAT REQUIRED LINENING UP 4 POINTS, THAT PROVED TO DIFFICULT, SOME EARLY MECHANIC REALISED HE COULD SAVE TIME AND EFFORT BY JUST PLACEING THEM 6/12 AND GETTING THEM AS CLOSE AS POSSIABLE THEN AFTER SEALING THE ENGINE, TURNING THE CRANK ONE COMPLETTE TURN BEFORE DROPING IN THE DISTRIBUTOR, BUT AS USUALLY MOST GUYS ONLY READ DOWN TO THE FIRST PART AND THREW AWAY THE INSTRUCTIONS, SO TO THIS DAY THE RESULTS ARE 96% OF THE GUYS INSTALL THE CAM, PLAY WITH THE IGNITION ,FIND ITS 180 OUT AND PULL THE DISTRIBUTOR AND RESEAT IT 180 OUT (correctly) THEN WONDER WHY IT ALWAYS WORKS OUT THAT WAY?

don,t worry you did it correctly corZette read this how come its 180 degs out of phase? I get this question all the time, well heres something I see lots of guys don,t understand ONCE YOUVE INSTALLED A CAM WITH THE TIMEING MARKS YOU MUST ROTATE THE CRANK 360 DEGRESS BEFORE DROPPING IN THE DISTRIBUTOR while its true that if the timeing marks are possitioned so the crank is at 12 o,clock and the cam gear is at 6 o,clock that the cam lobes will be in the possition that fires #6 cylinder that HAS NO EFFECT AT ALL (on finding TDC,) for aligning the degree wheel with TDC,or THE timeing tab pointer, for degreeing in the cam, the piston passes thru TDC TWICE in every fireing cycle once on the fireing/power stroke and once on the exhaust stroke, the cam rotates at exactly 1/2 the speed of the crank so to make it easy to line up the marks they install it with the marks at the closest point 6/12 for easy indexing, rotate the engine 360 degrees to the #1 TDC power stroke and the crank gear will still be at 12 oclock 12/12 but the cam will be at 12 o,clock also, rotate another 360 degrees and your back where you started. its simply easier to index the cam at the point where the index marks align closely. look at how the cam lobes themselfs open the valves when the cam is just installed the #1 cylinder valves are slightly open and the #6 are closed per "Lunati" YES YOU ARE RIGHT - WHEN CRANK IS AT TWELVE AND CAM IS AT SIX THEN #6 CYL IS FIRING AFTER YOU LINE UP YOUR MARKS AND INSTALL GEAR THEN ROTATE YOUR CRANK ONE REVOLUTION AND THEN DROP THE DIST. IN - AT THAT POINT #1 IS FIRING

personally Id take BOTH dampers to a ballance shop and have them match the ballance on the new damper to the old damper that was ballanced with the crank

DITTO? Did you have the new damper balanced to the same balance as the old one? If not, that's likely your problem. Also, check that your exhaust isn't touching somewhere on the body (or close enought to touch when the engine twists. That can sometimes sound and feel like the same problem. anytime you have an enggine built all the rotateing parts should be BALLANCED AS A SET, and THE MOST COMON PROBLEM,Ive found is flexplates and dampers that don,t match or are ballanced incorrectly, yeah NOT what you wanted to hear, Im sure