grumpyvette

you guys are making this harder than it needs to be... look here.. http://www.prestage.com/carmath/dynochart.asp http://www.prestage.com/carmath/calc_ETMPH.asp http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcrgr.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcrpm.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcafhp.htm play with these calculators, the secret to building a fast car is simply to get an excelent power to weight ratio then gear the car to stay in the engines most effective rpm range during any high performance use, and to get the suspension to transfer that power to the ground. http://www.wallaceracing.com/reargear.htm http://www.chris-longhurst.com/carbibles/suspension_bible.html lets say you want a nice drivable car that will kick butt on 90% of the cars on the road, your (Z) weights 2950 with you in it and you have installed a 700r4 transmission ( a manual trans would be a better choice) well with that weight and gearing youll want to have about a 140mph top speed MAX (BECAUSE THERES NO PLACE TO USE ANYMORE SPEED), if your tires are 25" tall , useing the calculators we see youll need about 360-375 rear wheel hp, and a 4.11 rear gear give you a 2900rpm 75mph cruise rpm in overdrive, now that would mean that youll need to make your hp in the 2700-6500rpm range, and most of it in the upper 1/2 of that rpm range, and youll need about 435hp-470hp at the fly wheel. thats very easy to do with a 383 -406 sbc, provided your cylinder heads, cam and compression ratio are matched to be most effective in the 4500rpm-6500rpm ranges look over choices #14.#15.#16,#17,#71#19,#39,#44,#54,#70,#92,#93 on this site! http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos3.html then figure youll not really need nearly that much hp if you satisfied with a car that will beat most corvettes,mustangs ,ETC, and youll soon realize its not all that hard to build a fast (Z) because your starting with a huge weight advantage over most of the competeing cars heres a few engine combos I know work 11:1 cpr 383 CRANE #119661 roller cam RETARD 6 DEGREES) afr 195cc heads edelbrock super vic intake 850cfm carb 1 3/4" full length headers 11:1 cpr 383 crane #114681 flat tappet cam pocket ported 220cc motown heads edelbrock super vic intake 850cfm carb 1 3/4" full length headers http://shop.theengineshop.com/dr/v2/ec_MAIN.Entry10?V1=979018&PN=1&SP=10034&xid=42186 http://www.theengineshop.com/newstuff2.shtml

things to read http://www.69mustang.com/hp_torque.htm http://www.ubermensch.org/Cars/Technical/hp-tq/ http://vette.ohioracing.com/hp.html http://www.n2performance.com/archives.shtml

1. What makes the Mustang GT a better car than the Camaro SS? it the (RUSTANG) isn,t BETTER but if I had to guess, its cheaper to buy 2. Which car has a better appearance? PERSONAL OPINION 3. Which car do you think is faster? YOUR KIDDING RIGHT! THE LS1 CAMARO IS AT LEAST 3/4 OF A SECOND FASTER 4. When you were a kid what was the car that you always wanted? WHEN I WAS A KID THE 1964 GTOs and IMPALA 409s and 413 DODGES WERE THE FAST CARS 8) 5. If you had to buy one of these which one would it be and why? CAMARO, at least every jerk with $2000 not driving one under the mistaken opinion its fast! 6. Is there anything that you would change about the Camaro SS? YEAH IT HAS WAY TO MANY LUXURY OPTIONs, WEIGHS TO MUCH, COSTS TO MUCH, AND SHOULD HAVE A 6 SPEED MANUAL TRANS and 427-454 DISPLACEMENT, or maybe a 502 bbc/4L80E trans option 7. Is there anything that you would change about the Mustang GT? NO I LIKE EASY TO BEAT LOOSER CARS AS COMPETITION 8. Are you a Chevy fan or a Ford fan? FORDS ARE FOR GUYS THAT DON,T KNOW ANY BETTER 9. Which car do you think started the “muscle car†era and why? the 1964 GTO NO QUESTION, IT WAS THE FIRST BIG ENGINE LIGHT CAR COMBO (MUSCLE CAR) 10. What makes the Camaro SS a better car than the Mustang GT POWER <COMFORT, BETTER HIGH SPEED STABILITY,BETTER TECH SUPPORT,MORE SPEED PARTS,LARGER DISPLACEMENT, BETTER FLOWING CYLINDER HEADS,STRONGER CRANKSHAFT, MANY CORVETTE ENGINE PARTS SWAP,AND ITS A CHEVY, so you know the aftermarket parts will still be available in ten-30 years, you can still buy 427 corvette parts from the 1960s, try finding reasonable amounts of ford, 427 cammer parts ,boss 429 or boss 302 ford engine parts that are new manufactured, youll pay twice to five times the comparable chevy parts price when and if you do find them I can buy a ZL1 chevy NOW for under $20,000,from chevy a BOSS 429 will cost $45,000 plus to built from all new parts PAUL LANGEVIN

more info http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/specs/1996/96technology.html A bolt on LT4 performance upgrade for your LT1. The > LT4 conversion kit includes parts needed to change > the > top end of the LT1 to LT4 specs. Conversion kit > includes: 2 Cylinder Heads P/N 12363287, 1 Intake > Manifold P/N 12550630, 1 GM Performance Parts LT4 > Hot > Cam P/N 24502586, 1 1.6:1 Aluminum Roller Rocker Arm > kit P/N 12370839, 2 Head Gaskets P/N 12551488, 2 > Intake Gaskets P/N 12367777, 1 Front Timing Cover > Gasket P/N 10128293, 1 Water Pump Seal P/N 10217886, > 1 > Front Crankshaft Seal P/N 10128316, 1 Oil Pan Gasket > P/N 10108676, 2 Valve Cover Gaskets P/N 10108625, 2 > Exhaust Gaskets P/N 12552470. Also includes: 1 > Distributor Seal(1995-1997 cars) P/N 12552428, and 1 > Distributor Seal (1992-1994 cars) P/N 10128317, but > only one of these is used depending on apllication. > Not included in the kit, but recommended is the > "Extreme Duty LT1/LT4" timing chain kit P/N > 12370835 http://www.malcams.com/legacy/misc/headflow.htm http://www.malcams.com/legacy/misc/lt1lt4.html http://www.protechmachine.net/lt4/lt4.html http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/specs/1996/lt1lt4.html http://www.afrashteh.com/guide/install.htm http://www.automotiverebuilder.com/ar/ar99928.htm http://phil.tobin.net/Hoover/index.html http://csce.uark.edu/~jgbertr/rb/4th_gen_tech1.html http://www.idavette.net/winback/lt115.htm http://www.armory.com/~greymage/resume/lt1.html http://home.tir.com/~steveher/lt4.html http://www.lt1intake.com http://www.kendrick-auto.com/lt_1__gm_head.htm http://www.protechmachine.net/lt4/lt4.html http://www.automotiverebuilder.com/ar/ar99928.htm LT1 http://www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?action=prod_detail&catid=738&pid=2587 LT4 http://www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?action=prod_detail&catid=738&pid=2588 More links: http://www.chevytalk.org/forums/Forum64/HTML/006238.html http://www.chevytalk.org/forums/Forum64/HTML/012593.html Opti Spark link: read http://www.charm.net/~mchaney/optisprk/optisprk.htm http://www.fierolt1.com/lt1_95_up_OptiReplace.htm http://www.noid.org/~muttvette/opti.html http://www.gulicks.com/vette/projects/opti/index.html http://www.houston-f-body.org/tech/optispark/ http://www.dynotech-eng.com/dynaspark.htm http://www.corvetteclinicinc.com http://www.corvettefever.com/howto/16758

http://www.toysport.com/toyota%20differentials%20indentifications.htm http://www.chrismans.com/Identification.html this might help

http://www.younger-bros.com/differential_identification_chart.htm http://www.nationwideparts.com/differentials.htm http://www.samsoffroad.com/samsoffroadsto/powertrax/powertraxDifferentialIdentification.htm this might help

one of my pet peaves is rigged results from testing, in magazine dyno results, as most of the experianced guys know the engine is a SYSTEM of parts that must match in the rpm range and air flow/ horse power levels they need to run at to get valid results anyone can take a nearly stock 350 chevy engine designed to run at 3500rpm or lower most of the time and show a marked advantage on a dyno for the use of a dual plane intake and 650 cfm carb, especially if the dyno run only goes to 4500rpm, yet theres not a thing wrong with the single plane intake, the opposite result would be shown on a 350 engine equiped with a cam, high compression pistons, open headers and cylinder heads designed to run 7000rpm especially if the dyno testing started at 3500rpm and pulled to 7200rpm I just got thru reading a DYNO test on oval versus retangle port heads on a bbc engine in one of the magazines, now the results they got while valid, for the tested engine combo, they were not a fair comparison, and any engine builder with experiance would have picked up on the fact that the DYNO test was set up so that only one result was likely. in the article they first matched results on a 454 useing rectangle then oval port heads, the results was 407hp ® versus 419hp(O) N/A then 558hp® versus 563hp(O) SUPERCHARGED now thats fine UNTILL YOU LOOK AT THE OTHER COMPONENTS USED in the first test a cam was used with only 220/220 duration and .500/.500 lift,and the dyno was only run up to 5700rpm. now any engine builder knows that the advantage of the rectangle port heads will not show up untill a cam designed for rpm ranges of about 6000rpm and lifts in the .550 plus ranges are used, MOST ENGINE BUILDERS WILL TELL YOU THAT CORRECTLY SET UP OVAL PORT HEADS ARE THE BEST CHOICE ON THE STREET, AND THEY ARE CORRECT! but in this case a look at the dyno torque curve shows very clearly the CAM started causeing the engine to run short on air at about 4300rpm. this ment the rectangle port heads had no chance at ever reaching the rpm range they were designed to run in. in the second test a supercharger was used on both heads, but it was a HOLLEY 174 power charger DESIGNED for efficient low rpm street use,but a supercharger that not designed to feed a 454 at 6000rpm, and again the same cam severly limited power potential at over 4300rpm if your going to compare the results fairly to take ADVANTAGE of the STRONG POINTS OF BOTH HEADS, a larger CAM and a LARGER SUPERCHARGER would need to be used, I would be VERY SURPRISED if the results still favored the oval port heads if both cylinder heads were tested with a cam like the CRANE, http://dab7.cranecams.com/SpecCard/DisplayCatalogCard.asp?PN=139651&B1=Display+Card with a N/A dynamic compression ratio of about 8:1 or the HOLLEY, 871 supercharger driven at 1:1 engine speed ratio and spun up to 6000rpm was used on both engines with a lower compression matching the supercharges boost curve http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Products/AMS/SC/SCK/6-71_14-71.html btw DD-2000 guesses at a 190hp plus advantage to useing the larger port, larger valve rectangle port heads on a combo like that ! THE POINT IM TRYING TO MAKE CLEAR HERE IS THAT ALL PARTS IN AN ENGINE BUILD MUST MATCH THE INTENDED USE FOR THAT ENGINE FOR THE PARTS TO WORK CORRECTLY IN THE INTENDED RPM RANGE AND AT THE INTENDED HORSEPOWER LEVEL, ANY PART NOT MATCHING THE THE REST OF THE COMBO CAN BE MADE TO LOOK BAD ON A DYNO TEST

the average price Ive paid for COMPLETE 1985--1987 TPI corvette engines includeing the engine, fuel injection, accessories, and wireing is in the $650-$750 range at most salvage yards

http://www.vetteexplorer.com/cgi-bin/mv.pl http://www.montygwilliams.com/turbochargers.html you might want to look at these

good! it looks like youve been paying attention, to my answers to previous posts. now youll need to look into port cross section/length, volumetric efficiency, scavageing effect, ram tuning,dwell time, and how they effect the cylinder filling effeciency and at what RPM ranges each has the greatest effect. (Im in BILOXI MISS. at the moment so I cant post to much info) BUT youll find that the flame front takes about 30-40 thousands of a second to burn and build pressure, the piston moves away from TDC adout a 1/4" before the rapidly increaseing cylinder volume starts to drop the pressure ratio, and that you rapidly loose cylinder effective fill rates due to limited time after about 4500rpm-5000rpm. youll also learn that as your dynamic compression drops what your really doing is tradeing a longer valve open time and more power strokes per minute for a lower efficiency PER stroke but a higher total of effectively used cylinder pressure per minute. so what your left with is that the port size and length must match the engine displacement, the rod to stroke raio thats the longest that economically can fit will take best advantage of that critical first inch of piston travel away from TDC where almost all effective pressure is available due to the longer rods dwell time being longer. the higher the cpr the more effective the burm can be and the greater the pressure on the piston can be up to the [point where detonation occures. the faster the fuel burns the greater the percentage of that burn time in the cylinder can be PAST TDC where it does some good pushing the piston down the cylinder, but the longer it burns the longer the pressure peak can last! the time available to fill the cylinders goes down with the number of strokes per minute, so youll want the max EFFECTIVE power strokes where the cylinders are still filling efficienctly, yet the lowest duration cam to maintain the highest dynamic compression ratio. a rough idea of port airflow and potential hp can be found with this formula (the formula for POTENTIAL HP FROM AIR FLOW is (.257 X flow X #of cylinders= POTENTIAL HP now that means youll have a hard time getting over 420hp with a stock untouched TPI but could potentially use a STEATH RAM to feed over 550hp) BTW FOR THOSE OF YOU WHO DON,T KNOW WHAT WE ARE TALKING ABOUT! ok after looking into this for several years heres what Ive found <b> ITS NOT AN EXACT SCIENCE but..YOU CAN GET CLOSE ON YOUR EDUCATED ESTIMATES and YES IM LEAVING A BUNCH OF STUFF LIKE FLAME FRONTS,IGNITION TIMEING,PRESSURE PEAKS, ROD LENGTH,ETC> out of this discussion</b> (1) volumetric efficiency filling the cylinders and the resulting pressure pulse pushing the piston down into the cylinder, if graphed follows the engines torque curve graph extremely closely, or put another way the efficiency of the cylinders filling and scavaging increases with the rpm level untill a point where theres just not enough <b>TIME to effectively fill the cylinders,</b once that rpm level is reached the TORQUE peaks and altho the total HP may continue to climb for awhile because the NUMBER OF LESS EFFICIENT power stroke increases per second the effectiveness of each individual power stroke effectively falls in power as the cylinder filling time and cylinder burn time gets lower (2) the pressure produced in the cylinder that depends on the cam timing and RPM level exserts pressure for only about 20-24 degrees of the 720 degrees in the 4-stroke engines repeating cycle and the EFFECTIVE cam timing (VALVES FLOWING AIR)filling the cylinders is limited to about 250 degrees with even a hot cam (less with a stock cam) (3) displacement and cam timeing plus compression ratio and rod to stroke ratio have an effect on where and when in the intake stroke the max flow rate happends in the port. (4) now lets look at port size and engine displacement, lets say you have a 350 chevy with a cam that effective flow is in the 230 degree range, (that would be about a 250 degree cam) look here, we see the average 250 degree cam is most efficient at about 5200rpm so taking a 350 displacement/8= 43.75cid per cylinder, at a max piston speed of 4000 fpm .at 5200 rpm thats 43.3 intake strokes per second, at the probable max engine speed of 6857 rpm thats 57 intake strokes a second thats 1899cid of air at 5200rpm and potential 2493 cid of air at 6857 rpm but remember the valves only effectively open 230 degrees or 32% of the time so the port needs to potentially flow between 5935cid and 7790 cid of air per second, thats between 5935cid and 7790cid flowing past the valve through a port, the calculator say a 2.6sq inch port is the correct size at that displacement and rpm level, now 5935 cid of air flowing past a port 2.6 sq inchs in size is moving at 190cfps (cubic feet per second), at 6875 its moveing at 325 cfps but theres not enough time to fill the cylinders <b>so as a crude guide your looking too find a port size that keeps the air flow velocity at between 190fps and 325 fps</b> now lets look at my 383, its about 10% larger so its quite logical to figure the engines port speeds will be 10% higher with same ports or youll need a port <b> that flows 10% more, NOT a 10% BIGGER PORT</b> at that cam timeing and torque peak. Now in your application with a 190fps-325fps air flow as a target plug your own engines info using the same math and see what port size you get, example lets say we want to build a 468bbc (468 bbc have a 4 "stroke so we have a 6000rpm max (STOCK)engine speed that,s 58.5cid x 8 cylinder displacement ,and with that cam timing about a 4000rpm torque peak, that,s 6088cid per second and 211 cfpm at 4000rpm and 317cfpm at 6000rpm , that suggests 2.66 sq inches-4.0 sq inches at 6000rpm for that 468 bbc http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/runnertorquecalc.html if youll look and compare youll see why the 468 engines tend to run better in the mid range rpms with oval port heads http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/calculators/runnerarea.htm <b>so the bottom line here is your looking for a port that flows about 2.0 sq inchs and 210cfm at 5000rpm and 2.68 sq inches 270cfm at 6857rpm average the two and youll be looking for a port of about 2.3-2.6 square inchs that flows between about 250cfm-270cfm at your cams peak lift because remember the port cant flow enough due to time restrictions at the peak rpm range</b> BTW thats most closely matched by a 195cc AFR head below 5500rpm and ABOUT 235@.050 lift duration and a 210cc head above 5500rpm and 240@.050 lift duration on a 400cid engine the short answer here is that its NOT PORT VOLUME ,ITS THE AVERAGE PORT CROSS SECIONAL AREA your looking for! a #1205 gasket size port is about correct for hot street and a 1206 port is about correct for an engine thats mostly used on the track look at it this way a 195cc port thats a #1205 size cross section tends to flow about the same and have the same average air flow speeds as a 210cc port thats also a #1205 cross section. these about 16.38 CCs in a cubic inch, a port that measures about 2.5 sq inches like a #1205 port needs to be only about .67" longer to remain at the same cross sectional average, raiseing the port floor and roof and changing the entrance angles can easily account for a great percentage of that volume http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB64&Number=239801&Forum=UBB64&Words=LSA&Match=Entire%20Phrase&Searchpage=2&Limit=25&Old=1year&Main=239797&Search=true#Post239801 http://www.mercurycapri.com/technical/engine/cam/lca.html some good general info look closely at the duration used for each MATCHING rpm range. ALSO KEEP IN MIND THE DCR AND OVERLAP MUST MATCHlook herethese are the valve timeing overlap ranges that are most likely to work correctly trucks/good mileage towing 10-35 degs overlap daily driven low rpm performance 30-55degs overlap hot street performance 50-75 degs overlap oval track racing 70-95degs overlap dragster/comp eliminator engines 90-115 degs overlap but all engines will need the correct matching dcr for those overlap figures to correctly scavage the cylinders in the rpm ranges that apply to each engines use range. http://cochise.uia.net/pkelley2/Overlap.html http://cochise.uia.net/pkelley2/Overlap.html http://cochise.uia.net/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html http://cochise.uia.net/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html A> and keep in mind lower overlap duration and LSAs of 112-115 work better with EFI and I can tell you right now that intake durations not to exceed about 222 degs@.050 (intake duration)are what youll need for a close to stock TPI intakes rpm/tq range<BR><B> now just to make you crazy, don,t forget that the longer your rods are (closer to the ideal 2:1 rod to stroke ratio) the wider the lsa should be and the longer the stroke the wider the lda (lobe displacement angle) should be

disconnect both battery terminals, drain all oil and coolent, use quality jack stands and wheel chocks, put the parking break on, keep a fire extinguisher handy , make very sure the car cant be knocked off the jack stands,THINK THU EVERY MOVE,DON,T ALLOW YOUR HANDS INTO PLACES THAT WILL GET CRUSHED IF SOMETHING SLIPS OR BREAKS, DON,T FORGET TO BRING DOZENS OF THOSE TIE ON LINEN TAGS TO LABEL EVERY CONNECTOR AS YOU REMOVE IT AS TO WHERE IT CONNECTS, a marker that gas and oil won,t make the ink run, AND A DIGITAL CAMERA TO TAKE DOZENS OF PICTURES AS YOU DO THE WIRE REMOVAL TO MAKE THE RE-INSTALL EASIER BTW theres no way to write all the necessary info on the tag so just write a large number and then write all your info on a large pad with that number on the top of the page and the same number on the back of any photo if you can later when the pictures are developed or down loaded to your computer and printed out remember to support the transmission, after you pull the engine , just letting it drop could cost you big$$$ keep a 5 gallon bucket around to theow ALL the bolts in but take the time to lable zip lock bags for each group of bolts also ,(bags like )(intake bolts)(header bolts)(accesories)(water pump)(motor mount)(bellhouseing) (head bolts)CAN HELP A GREAT DEAL IN GETTING THE CORRECT BOLTS BACK IN THE CORRECT SPOTS clean all bolts befor reuse with a mix of diesel/carb cleaner and a wire brush and look for worn or corroaded parts needing replavement YOU DON,T NEED to pull the hood to pull the engine,(MOST CARS) but if you do,lightly dust the hood mount locations with white paint,this allows you to exactly replace the hood alighnment correctly by showing exactly how they were previously installed (RECOVER(REPAINT) AFTER THE HOODS REPLACED WITH BLACK paint AGAIN) take lots of notes and pictures, lable every connection its far easier with two people! adding an engine leveler and swivel to your engine crane makes things far easier adding a swivel like this between the leveler and crane GREATLY AIDS THE ENGINES REMOVAL, DON,T GET CHEAP, GET THE 2700lb or 3400lb rated one not the 1200lb size (REMEMBER YOULL BE UNDER THAT ENGINE SOMETIMES) youll need two of these rated at similar load strength[/b]

url=http://www.turboclub.com/aturbo.htm]http://www.turboclub.com/aturbo.htm[/url] http://www.prolexperformance.com/nav/resources/supercharger/supercharger_basics.html http://www.howstuffworks.com/turbo.htm http://www.grapeaperacing.com/GrapeApeRacing/tech/supertypes.cfm http://www.turbofast.com.au/TFcompB.html http://www.howstuffworks.com/engine.htm/printable http://www.turbofast.com.au/javacalc.html http://www.turbofast.com.au/flowmaps.html http://www.superchargersonline.com/content.asp?id=15 http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/misc/octanebooster.html http://www.turbokits.com/how_turbos_work5.html http://www.itsnet.com/sdce/lt1vette5.htm http://www.superchargersonline.com/content.asp?ID=31 http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/intercoolers.html http://donald_js.tripod.com/intercoolers.htm EXAMPLE OF HOW WELL IT WORKS BELOW http://www.montygwilliams.com/

read http://www.charm.net/~mchaney/optisprk/optisprk.htm http://www.fierolt1.com/lt1_95_up_OptiReplace.htm http://www.noid.org/~muttvette/opti.html http://www.gulicks.com/vette/projects/opti/index.html http://www.houston-f-body.org/tech/optispark/

Mudge ANSWERED YOUR QUESTION ABOUT AS WELL AS i COULD HAVE. THERE WERE ALSO DIFFERANCES IN THE CYLINDER HEADS BUT MOST WERE MINOR EXCEPT FOR THE LT4 VERSIONS THE LT1 engines to look for are the 1994-96 version becaust the opti distributor is quit a bit better designed http://www.protechmachine.net/lt4/lt4.html http://www.automotiverebuilder.com/ar/ar99928.htm http://www.hashmarks.com/dyno_page.htm http://www.lt4.com/story.htm http://www.malcams.com/legacy/misc/headflow.htm http://www.mochevracing.com/Corvette/lt1lt4.html http://www.gmmodernmuscle.com/383/383build.html http://www.h-body.org/people/projects/building_lt1/lt1%20info.html http://home.earthlink.net/~onealk/capricess/tech/lt1_cool.html http://www.slpfbody.com/lt1.htm http://www.charm.net/~mchaney/optisprk/optisprk.htm

"I would like power to peak at either 6500 or 7000 on this engine. thanks alot guys." thats going to require a cam of about 255-265 duration@.050 lift on the intake, and cams like that don,t run worth crap at rpm level lower than about 3500rpm unless your turbocharged (NOT A GOOD STREET COMBO!) while this chart is designed to show the older sbc and the older design heads its still close to correct for the newer design engine or for that matter most other engines because the main factor is THE AVAILABLE TIME THAT THE VALVES REMAIN OPEN IN RELATION TO THE RPM BUT ID LIKE TO POINT OUT THAT SIX CYLINDER DATSUN ENGINES DON,T NORMALLY RUN UP MORE THAN ABOUT 6000RPM AT PEAK POWER THIS CRANE CAM IS A BETTER CHOICE Grind Number Part Number DA-282-2-10 168-0014 Advertised Duration Int/Exh Duration @ .050 Int/Exh Lobe Separation Gross Lift 282 / 292 236/246 110 450/450

I had a local guy stop by and ask me if theres a simple way to dis-assemble pressed piston pins and u-joints, I told him I only build floating piston pin engines anymore because floating piston pins are the way to go here for both ease of maintinance and less stress on the parts if your going to be assembling and dis-assembling the engine yourself several dozen times while you get all the parts CORRECTLY fitted/clearanced OR you can do what ive done and realize that the local machineshop wants $20 to press out and press back in a single (U) joint,theres 6 (U) joints in a single corvette . (I own (3) corvettes) if I change the (U) joints just once the cost would be $360 PLUS the cost of the U-joints themselfs) its a NO_BRAINER why I bought the shop press for $135 http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&langId=-1&catalogId=4006970&PHOTOS=on&TEST=Y&productId=21029 be sides the local guys say the charge of a 12 pack of coke to use the tool and a little conversasion works out less in the long run ($2-3 for all six u-joints) btw once you install a stealth ram and a 200hp nitrous plate on your corvette YOU WILL LEARN TO CHANGE U-JOINTS yeah ,you can upgrade u joints SCORP LAYED THIS OUT SO THERES NO NEED TO REDO IT AGAIN http://personal.tmlp.com/scorp/vette/images/ujoints/ dont use china made u-joints only use american made quality u-joints u-joints with grease fittings are slightly weaker use every possiable safety device including several good jack stands AND USE YOUR BRAIN FULL TIME, THAT SUSPENSION is under ALOT OF TENSION the only thing Id like to add is the press makes things far easier, liquid wrench spray works better than WD-40 and marking the 1/2 shaft ends woth a lightly stamped marking helps (PSOE)pass side outer end (DSOE) driver side outer end , on the 1/2 shafts helps http://www.midwayusa.com/rewriteaproduct/441144

here this will help http://www.bob2000.com/carb.htm http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/eps_1405.html http://edelbrock.com/automotive/eps_intro.html http://edelbrock.com/automotive/eps_intro.html http://www.shockley.net/holley-jets.asp http://www.bgsoflex.com/holley.html http://riversiderebels.com/amccf/tech/new/carburetor_4bbl_AFB_part1.jpg http://riversiderebels.com/amccf/tech/new/carburetor_4bbl_AFB_part2.jpg http://www.73-87.com/garage/myqjet.htm http://www.73-87.com/garage/damon.htm http://www.73-87.com/garage/qjetidle.htm http://www.buickperformance.com/qjet.html http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/rsrgauge.htm http://www.centuryperformance.com/fuel.asp http://www.mortec.com/carbs.htm http://www.hardtopracing.com/articles/tech/holleytuning.htm

here read it may help.. http://www.montygwilliams.com/ http://www.jcijag.com/zcar.htm http://www.customconversion.com/Pages/Datsun_Z_V-8.html

zfan for a cam to work correctly in any application the rest of the combo must match. that vic.jr and 236/242 hydrolic roller match IF the rest of the combo also match, ant that would ideally require a static compression of about 11.7:1 and a rear gear close to 4.56:1-4.88:1 with tires about 26" tall. PLAY WITH THESE FOR AWHILE http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcmph.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcrpm.htm http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcrgr.htm http://www.prestage.com/carmath/dynochart.asp http://www.prestage.com/carmath/calc_ETMPH.asp http://www.wallaceracing.com/reargear.htm the idea is to keep the engine running almost full time inside its effective rpm range. a 236/242-510/540 a comp cams hyd.roller should be running in the 3000rpm-6500rpm range with most of its time in the inner 4000-6000rpm range if that milder cam and dual plane intake run better IM betteing your gearing keeps the engine in the 1000-5000rpm range a good part of the time, and your also forgetting that those small 170cc intake ports won,t flow at the higher rpm ranges, so the larger cam can,t flow any air in the rpm range its designed to run in.

the canfield heads and AFR heads are very close in performance, and $1100 is a good price!

if you can get 195cc AFR heads for $1100 grab them! I sure would! just make sure which heads , are they the 74cc or 68cc heads?, personally if the AFR heads fit with either size Id grab them but Id prefer the 74cc chamber on the street, they should prove to be a big improvement over the edelbrock heads, and you should be able to sell your old heads to get some of the $$$ back http://www.airflowresearch.com/ LOK AT THE DIFFERANCE IN FLOW http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/heads1.html THEY SHOULD BE WORTH A GOOD 30HP over the EDELBROCKS IF MATCHED TO THAT LARGER CAM

"Looks like it would be virtually impossible to stab the motor onto that stand the way it is setup. Once you have the motor on the hoist, how do you get it closer to the stand? " WHILE I AGREE IT LOOKS THAT WAY, MY NEIGHBOR BOUGHT THAT SETUP , the secret is having the ram/crane having a 3.5 foot length of chain between the crane while on the short setting and raised all the way up and the engine Engine Equalizer and installing a swivel in the chain/connection it holds the engine close enought to easily swing into place. btw he does NOT have the engine stand bolted on while removing or installing the engine in the car, and your totally correct that having BOTH a quality engine stand and crane is the better way to go about it but if the floor space in the garage and your wallets thin a combo might be the best choice

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&langId=-1&catalogId=4006970&PHOTOS=on&TEST=Y&productId=334728&categoryId=0 http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?xsell=145885&storeId=6970&productId=19889&langId=-1

http://www.scegaskets.com/ http://www.scegaskets.com/search_IE4.asp http://www.scegaskets.com/results_IE4.asp?catalog_Action=Filter%28%22%28index+%3D%27CHEVROLET+265%2D400ci+V8+SMALL+BLOCK%27%29+AND+%28productline+%3D%27PRO+COPPER+Head+Gaskets%27%29%22%29&catalog_Position=PAR: Gasket Bore 4.060 Thickness .021" special order thickness. To delete water passages add "NW" suffix to part#. Example: 011065NW. For 93 & up reverse flow LT-1 add "LT" suffix to part # Example 011064LT 011062 and YEAH IM USEING THESE WITHOUT (O)RINGS FOR YEARS WITH NO PROBLEMS http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB64&Number=239142&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1

"you need to let your engine idle for 30 minutes regular" , IF YOU DO THAT THERES AT LEAST A 50/50 chance youll wipe the cam! YOU MUST KEEP THE RPMS IN THE 1500-4000rpm range and spend most of the time above 2000rpm to have the correct amount of oil thrown from the rods to keep the cam lobes correctly oiled., HERES WHAT CRANE HAS TO SAY ALSO Cam failure is rarely caused by the cam itself. The only things we can control during manufacture pertaining to cam lobe wear, are lobe taper lobe hardness and surface finish. Of all the damaged cams we have checked over the years, more than 99.99 percent have been manufactured correctly. Some people have the misconception that it is common for a cast iron flat tappet cam to occasionally have a soft lobe. We have yet to see a cast iron flat tappet cam that had a soft lobe. When the cast core is made at the casting foundry, all the lobes are flame hardened. That process hardens all the lobes to a depth below the barrel of the core. That depth of hardness allows the finish cam grinder to finish grind the cam lobes with a Rockwell hardness above 50Rc. The generally accepted hardness on a finished cast cam should be between 48Rc to 58Rc. All of the finished cams that we have checked are always above 50Rc hardness on the lobes. Many outside factors, or a combination of factors, can cause cam failures. We will list some of the factors we have determined that may cause camshaft failure. 1. Lobe wear A) Incorrect break-in lubricant. Use only the Moly Paste, Part Number 99002-1 that is included with the cam. This Moly Paste must be applied to every cam lobe surface, and to the bottom of every lifter face of all flat tappet cams. Roller tappet cams only require engine oil to be applied to the lifters and cam. Also, apply the Moly Paste to the distributor gears on the cam and distributor for all camshafts. For extra protection, an anti-wear additive should be added, such as Crane Super Lube, Part Number 99003-1. NOTE: Do not use synthetic oil during the break-in period. It is not recommended to use any type of oil restrictors to the lifter galley, or use windage trays, baffles,or plug any oil return holes in the valley. Oil has a two-fold purpose, not only to lubricate, but to draw the heat away from whatever it comes in contact with. The cam needs oil splash from the crankcase, and oil run-back from the top of the engine to help draw the heat away. Without this oil flow, all the heat generated at the cam is transferred to the lifter, which can contribute to it's early demise. Correct break-in procedure. After the correct break-in lubricant is applied to the cam and lifters, fill the crankcase with fresh non-synthetic oil. Prime the oil system with a priming tool and an electric drill so that all oil passages and the oil filter are full of oil. Pre-set the ignition timing and prime the fuel system. Fill the cooling system. Start the engine. The engine should start quickly and run between 1500 and 3000 rpm. If the engine will not start, don't continue to crank for long periods, as that is very detrimental to the life of the cam. Check for the cause and correct. The engine should quickly start and be run between 1500 to 3000 rpm. Vary the rpm up and down in this rpm range during the first 15 to 20 minutes, (do not run the engine at a steady rpm). During this break-in time, verify that the pushrods are rotating, as this will show that the lifters are also rotating. If the lifters don't rotate, the cam lobe and lifter will fail. Sometimes you may need to help spin the pushrod to start the rotation process during this break-in procedure. http://www.cranecams.com/instructions/valvetrain/camfail.htm andACCELERATED MOTION PERFORMANCE PRODUCTS START-UP: Avoid prolnged cranking of the engine on initial start-up. Once your engine has been started, keep the engine speed between 1800 rpm and 2000 rpm for about 20 minutes. DO NOT ALLOW THE ENGINE SPEED TO DROP BELOW 1200 RPM. This high rpm break-in is critical, as low rpms put more load on the cam lobes and reduce valve lifter rotation. With the valve covers off you will be able to see if the pushrods are rotating. Pushrods not rotating indicate that the lifters are not rotating. IF THIS OCCURES, STOP THE ENGINE IMMEDIATELY AND DETERMINE THE CAUSE. DO NOT RESTART THE ENGINE UNTIL THE CAUSE IS CORRECTED. When the lifters are not rotating, the cam lobes and lifters will self-destruct, sometimes in a matter of seconds, or create damage that will greatly reduce the life of the camshaft http://www.2quicknovas.com/happycams.html ISKY.CRANE,CROWER,ENGLE,COMP CAMS,ERSON, ALL SAY TO KEEP THE RPMS ABOVE 1500-2000RPM FOR THE FIRST 15-30 minutes so I TAKE THEIR WORD FOR IT, BESIDES IVE SEEN CAMS WITH WIPED LOBES that after checking seemed to have failed for no other reason than lack of luberacation during that critical first 20 minutes, the rods just don,t trow enough oil and the lifters don,t spin fast enough to properly break in/lap in below 1500-2000rpm DON,T FORGET THE MOLY CAM LUBE AND G.M. E.O.S. in the oil