grumpyvette

look over this site carefully http://www.crossfire.homeip.net:81/cftest/startdefault.asp what youll find is that the crossfire engine is greatly hampered by that throttle body injection system. the vette itself is a nice car, the drive train is easily upgradeable, the crossfire injection is the greatest block to hp as the stock engine has massive torque but only about 210 hp , add headers,heads,cam and a seriously modifyed intake system and you can almost double the hp, if you like the cars body style and the interior is in good shape figure on dumping about another $4000 in drivetrain mods in it and youll have a nice car, if thats too high then pass on the car, vettes are nice cars but they are like women (a constant drain on your wallet) yes its worth it if you like vettes (LIKE I DO) but don,t think youll just jump in and drive it for a few years, 99% of vette owners are constantly adding the next mod on a never ending list (its like a mostly pleasant disease that effects your wallet with a huge support network to supply you with parts and thousands of other infected guys that encourage the diseases progress)yeah its worth it in a weird way and the cars are great, plus its not all that hard to drop a big block chevy into the car if you want to and you don,t need to fabricate many parts as everythings available for a price.

as a general rule cruiseing rpms should be in the lower end of the range between 1/3 and 1/2 of the engines red line rpms , now figure with most sbc engines thats 4000fpm of piston speed so a 350s piston travels 3.5" x 2=7" in one revolution (RPM) so you divide 48000 inches by 7"=6857 rpm red line so your looking too be in the 2263rpm->3428 rpm range so figure the ideal rpm from a stress/efficiency compromise point of view on the engine at about 3428rpm-2262rpm=1165 x.33=384+2262=2647rpmas about the ideal long term goal to gear for as far as both low stress and reasonable torque useing standard compression ratios, cam durations and volumemetric efficiency and port size, cylinder scavageing ETC.

http://www.northernautoparts.com/ProductDetail.cfm?ProductId=911 flex hones are no ware near as precise as THIS TYPE or this type http://www.bobstools.com/Store/media/15000clp1x11x11x1.jpg a ball hone is faster and easier too use but it tends to follow the cylinder surface not hone only the high points so you wind up with a surface that could be slightly irregular in circumferance and taper faster that with the parrallel stone type hone, BOTH STYLES WORK FINE MOST OF THE TIME IF USED CORRECTLY but your less likely to get in trouble from incorrect useage, speeds lubes, angles and cross hatch patterns with the parrellel stone hone. http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdengi10.html#2833

the type of rings determines the pattern and grit needed http://www.aera.org/Tech/tb687r.htm http://www.kb-silvolite.com/speclear.htm#CHART http://www.totalseal.com/howdoo.html http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Products/IEC/IECP/Ring.html http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/ar110060.htm http://www.axtellsales.com/NewFiles/HowTo/How%20To%20 PDF/Piston%20clearancing%20and%20Ring%20End%20Gap%20Instructions.pdf http://www.hastingsinc.com/Service%20Tips/ring_installation.htm

http://www.northe rntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&langId=-1&catalogId=4006970&PHOTOS=on&TEST=Y&productId=19889&categoryId=421

for those questioning whether these setups can be made to run? the original GRAND SPORT CORVETTES were tested with these and from what Ive read FORD protested the setup as an UNFAIR ADVANTAGE even when the COBRAs were about 500 lbs lighter in weight, Ive worked on them (weber 4x2 setups)and they work almost as well as fuel injection and are much easier to set up than the old constant flow mechanical injection systems plus they still can use differant length ram tubes to tune the torque curve to some degree. besides they look GOOD UNDER THE HOOD maybe get crazy and add twin turbos also hey its only MONEY$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

hey your in luck they have a big sale going last time I checked this downdraft was $2999 and the horizontal weber set up was about $5500 look INGLESE CHEVROLET V8 SYSTEMS -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Part No. System Description Price IA1114H S/B, IDF, 44mm Carbs $2,995.00 IA1118H S/B, IDF, 48mm Carbs $3,395.00 IA1018H S/B, IDA, 48mm Carbs $4,495.00 IA1245H S/B, DCOE,45mm Carbs. "Moon" Crossram $4,450.00 Includes: 4 x 44 IDF Carbs Stainless steel braided Fuel Lines Adjustable linkage Intake Manifold 2 1/2 Stacks Comes Assembled $1995.95 http://www.injector.net/Weber/wildv8.asp

Since I have more time than money, I thought I'd see what thoughts you might have about what factors would have to be considered in building a log manifold to put webers on a 350? trust me bye the time you buy four 48mm webber carbs and build a manifold to fit them youll have about $3000 plus minimum in the set-up "Since I have more time than money" don,t fit there, look if you want something exotic looking a good used mechanical fuel injection set-up (possiably converted to EFI is the way to go. for BOTH POWER AND LOOKS http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1872931910 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1873371040 I normally pay $600-$1200 for a setup

ID stay with what you have now, any gains will be so small as to not be worth the expence involved inthe swap. I sure would not spend GPT-2282010GC 650 cfm, general competition design (GC), down leg boosters, square flange, Race Demon carburetor ... $704.95 to gain maybe 10 ft lbs of tq and 5hp max probably less if my computer is correct

http://www.corvettefever.com/editorial/article.jsp?viewtype=text&id=16758 http://www.charm.net/~mchaney/optisprk/optisprk.htm

talk to these guys, they have been working more with turbo sbc engines than I have and can give you better advise, hey I always try to learn from other KNOWLEGEABLE ENGINE BUILDERs or at least talk to the guys driveing cars like I intend to build before building a new engine, it saves money in the long run. each guy will give slightly differant info but at least youll get mostly good info! the main things you need to keep in mind is youll need a super effective cooling system, a free flowing exhaust, other things to do are use large intake ports, a cam DESIGNED for TURBO USE and if your useing much boost youll need an intercooler and high octane fuel plus head studs,main cap studs and possiably (o) ring the block and use copper head gaskets http://www.montygwilliams.com/ http://www.grapeaperacing.com/GrapeApeRacing/ http://zdriver.com/members/scottiegnz/scotties240zt.htm http://www.skulte.com/turbo.html http://www.turbonation.com/ http://www.findarticles.com/cf_dls/m0BUW/9_39/56220479/p1/article.jhtml

the computer says if you install the cam 6 degs retarded to take full advantage of the flow it should make 378hp/398tq

to get the correct quench distance the head gasket should be about .020 or less thick, that thin gasket and the vortec heads 64cc combustion chamber will require a piston with about a 18cc-22cc negative dome size like this one KB142 your dynamic compression will be ok with this piston for high test and KB101this piston for regular with that cam http://www.kb-silvolite.com/page25.htm to run pump gas. the guys are correct that you might need the upgraded heads to run that .480 exhaust lift cam (a very good idea to get them anyway) as the stock vortec heads can,t handle a .480 lift sometimes (clearance problems) http://www.kb-silvolite.com/page05.htm http://www.kb-silvolite.com/speclear.htm#CHART http://Parts@sallee-chevrolet.com/Cylinder_Heads/Vortec.html hypereutectic pistons are fine at that hp level

you must burn a certain amount of fuel to make a given level of hp, engine size has far less to do with it than engine efficiency and peak hp output , use this calc to figure what you need, figure on an 80% duty cycle max and a .55 bfsc http://www.z31.com/software/injector.pl http://www.rceng.com/technical.htm#WORKSHEET http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/fuelinjectors.htm here read this also http://www.grapeaperacing.com/GrapeApeRacing/tech/fuelinjectors.cfm

MOST CLEARACE PROBLEMS COME FROM USEING (I) BEAM STYLE RODS LIKE THESE as the inner rod bolts upper end can hit the cam and the lower outter bolts nut hits the oil pan rail area useing (H) style rods like these with bolts that screw into the rods without nuts solves most but not all of the clearance problems and makes the grinding necessary on the pan rail much less in depth plus these rods can be comonly ordered with 7/16" ARP rod bolts that far exceed the strength of the 3/8" rod bolts in the (I) style rods

heres a few flow charts to look over

http://www.tavia.com/free_degree_wheel.html here run off a few copys to glue to your damper for cam installs

GOOD QUALITY HEADERS WON,T LEAK, if your used to leaks I bet your used to buying cheap headers! a good set will have a 3/8" thick header flange and it will be ground perfectly flat. heres some suppliers if you choose to build your own headers http://www.headersbyed.com/chevsbv8.htm http://www.schoenfeldheaders.com/sbflanges.htm http://www.ssheaders.com/Collectors.htm http://www.secureperformanceorder.com/dynatechdragstore/getclasses.cfm?CategoryID=29 http://www.secureperformanceorder.com/dynatechdragstore/getsubclasses.cfm?ClassID=281&CategoryID=33 http://www.drgas.com/street-cat.html

if its that (RICH) it sounds like, one or more of the following problems are involved here (1) the float levels are set WAY too high. (2) needle/seat stuck or deffective (3) fuel pressure set way to high first check that the fuel pressure is no higher than about 6.5lbs and the float levels are set so the gas level stays just at the bottom edge of the sight hole at idle and when the rpms start to build up. Start the car. Check again for leaks. Remove the brass sight plug from the side of the float bowl, being careful not to drop the gasket. The fuel should be right at the bottom of the hole, maybe dribbling out a little. If it's not, with your 5/8" wrench and a large flatblade, loosen the large screw on the top, turn both the screwdriver and wrench as a unit, then tighten the screw. Clockwise will lower the level, counterclockwise will raise the level. Note that if you lower it, you'll have to rev the engine to use the fuel that's already in there. When you get it right, put the sight plug and gasket back in. Check for leaks. here read this http://www.bob2000.com/carb.htm http://www.bgsoflex.com/holley.html

Zero02 youll have a hard time flowing enough air in a dual plane SBC intake to support 500hp, the edelbrock super victor intake is a far better choice and while it might cause hood clearance problems on some hoods its far lower than a tunnel ram intake Super Victor (3500-8000 rpm) These powerful new manifolds utilize modern induction design techniques for incredible race-winning power. The all-new Super Victors deliver maximum torque and horsepower up to 8000+ rpm. The extended, constant cross sectional area of the runners produce more torque across the mid-range for great short track power, throttle response out of the corners and improved 60-foot times in drag racing. A direct "line of sight" flow path provides max flow for outstanding performance.

yes I have many times, the performer intake does not come close to the Weiand stealth as far as potential hp,especially above 4500rpm, the performer rpm does and it varies with your combo as to which of the two will work better but in most cases the diferance in hp is small. weiand stealth idle-7200rpm edelbrock performer idle-5500rpm edelbrock performer RPM-air gap 1500rpm-6500rpm on average Ive found the newer edelbrock air gap to be slightly better than the older stealth design but the differance is much smaller than edelbrock would have you believe it is, still if I was paying the same price Id get the newer edelbrock air gap design, but if I had a stealth already I would not spend the money to swap

ALL I CAN SAY IS.....OUTSTANDING!!! NICE JOB!!

working on and paying for parts on fast sports cars with 400 plus hp engines is alot like dateing and marrying a cute girl that KNOWS HOW cute she is......and REALLY KNOWS HOW to make YOU feel GOOD ,its going to cost way more than you thought going into the deal but you just don,t care after the feeling the resulting completed project gives you when its running right. or as a guy once said "boy I wish I had all that money back I wasted on cars and women......SO THAT NOW THAT I KNOW WHAT CARS AND WOMEN TO WASTE MONEY ON I COULD DO IT WITH BETTER RESULTS THE SECOND TIME!"