grumpyvette

the reason I thought you would have about 11:1 plus cpr is I was asumeing a flat top piston because nothing was said about dished/domed/pop-up piston shapes so flat top pistons being the most common type by far and what chevy uses thats what I used in the calc. now of course pparaska is correct if the new data is used.

no the first thing you you should realize is that the cam XE274 is about as large as your stock converter can handle and its close to being to much cam for a stock converter in a 327 now if I was building this I think a 383 rotateing assembly would go in that block simply for the much wider torque curve but the hp from either engine will be about the same at the peak hp numbers,since your not planing on racing this a cheap cast crank with hypereutectic pistons will work fine and not cost all that much more considering the total build costs especially if you need to rebore that 327 and get new forged pistons for that 327 anyway, remember its about 30 years old and most likely needs a rebore, rings , bearings,pistons, lifters,and cam minimum rebuild anyway(just a thought here, the 327 will work fine but a 383 will work better)look here http://www.flatlanderracing.com/index.html (look in (Chevrolet Rotating Assemblies)(Small Block Chevy 350)(Featuring SCAT® Cast) the RASBCC3507 kit looks perfect and you get new rods, crank and pistons instead of 30 plus year old parts of unknown quality too. just be sure you get it ballanced and the block your useing is a large journal block with 350 size bearings and you make sure the machine shop you use tells you if your block needs a clean up bore job and what size piston dia. to order BEFORE ORDERING ANY PARTS

ok your correct I apologize I may have confused your post today with some one else as I answer 60-70 posts a day now (truely sorry I got you confuzed with someone else) now the heads and intake will be fine on a 327 in a light weight car but be aware that you need headers and a good cam, that xe274 comp cams grind is fine in a 350 but a little rpm limiting in a 327 but since your not racing it I doubt youll notice the differance.if your going to rebuild that 327 be sure to use ARP rod bolts and good rods as that 327 has the potential to reach 7400 rpm.the 600cfm carb is even a better choice on a 327 than on a 350 so thats a good move and it will work well on that intake. if you buy new pistons (A GREAT IDEA BUT NOT MANDATORY)try for about 10/1 forged

the size of the ports will have MUCH less to do with the engines characteristics than the cam and intake type and carb size have on the engines performance.you have changed your mind on what engine your building so many times I tend to lose track of what your even trying to build , those 215cc iron eagle heads were for a HOT STREET 350 , if your going to build a 327 now you should be building a high rpm solid lifter camed engine if you want to take advantage of those heads and their air flow, not a hydrolic cammed 6000rpm max street engine. you can not change your goals and part list part way through an engine build and expect the parts to match or the combo to run correctly. the heads are fine,the intake and cam you pick must match your intended use for those heads.and don,t forget you need headers to let those heads breath. WHAT ENGINE ARE YOU GOING TO BUILD AND WHAT PARTS DO YOU HAVE ALREADY???

they are not going to hurt anything but they ARE NOT A MIRACLE CURE FOR ANYTHING EITHER. if you are not running EFI and don,t mind the ticking why not just run solid lifters and gain at least an additional 1000rpm over even rhoads lifters claimed rpm levels, plus solid lifter cams tend to idle well and produce good low rpm torque in the lower duration cams anyway, but if your really concerned get a roller cam and get everything in one cam,

Rhoads Lifters tend to sound like solid lifters at idle , they are slightly harder to adjust the valve preload acurately with and are a pain in the A-- in some cases to use (they drive EFI SENSORS NUTS) but they do lower your effective duration about 3-5 degress at idle and can smooth your engines idle very slightly, short answer , just use the correct cam for your application, and normal hydrolic lifters , and stop trying to use GIMMICKS TO CURE PROBLEMS THAT PICKING THE CORRECT PARTS IN THE FIRST PLACE WILL PREVENT! if you need to use Rhoads Lifters to drop your duration to a usefull level at idle by maybe 4 degs your admitting the cam you picked is too large. Boost Low-End Torque Up To 25%(total marketing B.S.unless something is seriously wrong with your engine already) 3 more inches of vacuum? (true in some isolated cases) Rhoads Variable Duration Lifters are also anti-pumpups and can add as much as 500 more usable rpm to the top-end (only if the lifters they are replaceing pump up and cause early valve float and the valve spring pressures are totally wrong for the rpms your running but in any case your not suppose to get a hydrolic lifter engine to those rpm levels anyway) You can actually hear Rhoads Lifters work. They have a "solid lifter" type sound all their own ( even they admit they sound like solid lifters)

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- found a place with the knowledge and skill to modify the plenum on the STEALTH RAM INTAKE to fit the c-4 vettes and do other custom EFI intake mods http://fuelinjectorclinic.com/ this company does quite simular work to other brand intakes all the time! they can also make EFI intakes from the HOLLEY BBC intakes, http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLi.../AMSM/5955.html http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLi.../AMSM/5951.html send one of the HOLLEY EFI TUNNEL RAM BASES to these people and they can adapt the parts necessary to make what you want.

places to look http://www.racetep.com/turbo.html http://www.vectorbd.com/peugeot/turbo.html http://www.callawaycars.com/Corvette/Sledgehammer/sledgehammer_article.htm http://www.turbonation.com/ http://www.diesel-turbo-charger-repair-kits.com/ look this over http://www.geocities.com/monty_williams/

Im assumeing your running 1 5/8" headers, you will be close to 365hp/451tq btw the heads you have give you close to 11.4:1 cpr (look here) http://www.smokemup.com/utilities/calc/compression_ratio.cfm so 87 octane regular pump gas will not be an option! and those heads are killing your hp, look here, summitracing.com for part # PAM-223260035A those heads cost $969 ready to run and flow 318cfm intake/205 exhaust when you get bucks up a change to heads like these and 1 3/4" headers will get you to about 425hp/465tq

here look these combos over, http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos.html combo#99 will be a good match and cheap to build but combo #26 has more potential later if you change your mind and want more power later, keep in mind that about 20% of your power is lost to the driveline so 410hp at the flywheel is about 328hp at the rear wheels !!! and a 700r4 transmission (get one from a 90-92 car their stronger)is a great match for a street car because that low first gear gets you going and that overdrive lets you drive high speeds with low engine rpms for less engine wear and better mileage!

found a place with the knowledge and skill to modify the plenum on the STEALTH RAM INTAKE to fit the c-4 vettes and do other custom EFI intake mods http://fuelinjectorclinic.com/ this company does quite simular work to other brand intakes all the time! they can also make EFI intakes from the HOLLEY BBC intakes, http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLi.../AMSM/5955.html http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLi.../AMSM/5951.html send one of the HOLLEY EFI TUNNEL RAM BASES to these people and they can adapt the parts necessary to make what you want.

these guys have good prices http://www.parts123.com/PartFrame.asp?ZTM=cadefjgb&GHOME=www.mi dwestmotorsportsinc.com&TITLE=Midwest_Motorsport put in oil pan in the search box and look around

if your stuck with crap gas I would try for an 8.3/1 dcpr and no higher than 8.5/1 tops on the dcpr. remember cylinder pressure =TORQUE but too much cylinder pressure + heat gets you DETONATION PROBLEMS so its a ballanceing act! BTW polishing the surface finish on the combustion chamber to a totally smooth finnish and very slightly rounding the combustiom chamber edges also helps prevent detonation problems and thats something you can do by hand with sand paper if you want to spend a very boreing day to make your engine run better (a 120 grit starting size and a 320 grit finish grit works ok) for this

the victor jr is a very good intake but if you can fit the super victor,it is a better flowing intake that normally makes more power.

utvolman99 the super victor intake in that lite weight car will have more that enought torque in the low rpm range and quite a bit more hp/tq in the 4000rpm and up rpm range.I have found a big advantage in useing that intake in a combo like your building.

post everything about your engine and car you can think off and we will be glad to help(weight,gearing,trans,engine size,cpr,headers, intake , ETC.)

ok those heads need to breath and your not pulling all that much weight and that 3.73 rear gear is a great choice with a stock stall speed 700r4 trans so get a super victor intake #2925(if it will fit under your hood, a victor jr will work ok and is a little shorter but gives up some high rpm power )but keep the carb about 650 cfm for good response the matching cam would be the xe274 (the xe268 will work fine too its probably a better street cam but youll get a higher and broader torque curve with the xe274 at the expense of a rougher idle and keep your compression at about 9.4/1 (you need a 12cc dish piston with those small chamber heads) and those heads will really like 1 3/4" HEADERS IF YOU CAN GET THEM TO FIT,now if your running stock flat top pistons your compression will be slightly higher(about 10/1)(something the xe274 will help with because of a larger overlap that drains of some low rpm compression) look here http://cochise.uia.net/pkelley2/crc.htm that combo will get you a great street torque range and power of about 410hp/407 ft lbs more than enough to embasass the new vettes and vipers in that light car but still a good daily driver on high test fuel.

in every case I have ever seen of the 406 SBC overheating its been either the guy who built the engine forgot to drill the MANDATORY STEAM HOLES IN THE HEADS FOR USE ON A 400 CHEVY BLOCK or they used head gaskets that did not have the steam holes drilled in them, get a good set of aluminum big port heads(CANFIELD 223cc,AFR210cc,DART230cc PRO_1 )with the MANUFACTURER DRILLED STEAM HOLES for use on a 400sbc and youll be just fine! btw 400sbcs like cam LSA,s between 105-110 (ROLLERS ARE NICE BUT NOT MANDATORY) and super victor intakes with 750 carbs and 13/4" headers ALOT! btw look at this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1813100543&r=0&t=0 or if your looking to build a torque monster this intake will do it!!! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1811526633&r=0&t=0 or are you looking for all out top end power http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1810998563&r=0&t=0

some times you win ....... sometimes you lose... WINNINGS BETTER CONGRATS BTW KEEP THAT GIRLFRIEND!!!!!!! girls that WANT TO HELP WITH ENGINE WORK ARE VERY VERY RARE AND ALMOST PRICELESS

the pontiac engine is a great engine if your willing to spend the money to build it correctly, what Im saying is 500+ hp is easy from a pontiac but it will cost slightly more that a chevy to get that hp simply because the parts are more expensive and harder to find, first the connecting rods on most pontiacs need replaceing if your looking to make over about 425hp as they can,t be relieably spun over about 5800rpm, next the cylinder heads need serious porting or you need good aftermarket heads, look here, btw an EDELBROCK #2957 INTAKE WITH A GOOD COMP CAMS ROLLER CAM AND PERFORMER RPM HEADS, 2" HEADERS AND 12.5 COMPRESSION MADE 693 HP ON AN EDELBROCK PONTIAC TEST ENGINE http://krepower.com/Heads.htm http://www.chiefmanyhorses.com/iacatalog/indian_adventures_catalog.htm http://www.krepower.com/ http://www.execpc.com/~lewenz/ http://www.wallaceracing.com/techarticles.htm

sounds like the floats are to high to me, read this, http://www.bob2000.com/carb.htm http://www.shockley.net/holley-jets.asp http://www.bgsoflex.com/holley.html

6 lbs should be fine..... are you haveing any problems with the carb??

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- engine prelube oiling is a necessity to insure instant oil pressure when starting a new engine,this will greatly help prevent wipeing cam lobes and bearings while you try and start your new engine first thing to do it correctly you need this tool (I always weld a socket to the top to make it easy to attach a ratchet) http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=7881&prmenbr=76 because a rod or a screw driver can,t seal the lifter oil gallery passages like a distributor body does, and yes to do it corectly you need to turn the engine over by hand useing a breaker bar on the crankshaft pulley retaining bolt about 6 full times slowly while your buddy supplies oil pressure by turning the oil pump primeing tool as fast as he can clockwise. keep turning the engine and primeing untill oil flows from ...EVERY LAST ROCKERARM..if not find out why not..BEFORE STARTING THE ENGINE!! you can make one(a primeing tool) from an old distributor if you have one, by removeing the gear teeth with a belt sander and almost every part from the distributor body and welding a socket on the distributors main shaft so that when its inserted it seals the lifter gallery with the distributors body so you get oil pressure in both lifter gallerys while you turn the distributor shaft with a ratchet or a drill

engine assembly lube needs to be used to protect your engine durring the first few minutes its running to protect the new parts as they start to lap in ,BEARINGS,CAM LOBES, LIFTERS,ROCKER ARMS,AND TIMEING CHAINS/GEARS, DISTRIBUTOR GEARS,ETC. ARE VERY IMPORTANT TO COAT TOTALLY DURRING THE ASSEMBLY PROCESS. first spray the contact surfaces with this ultra penatrateing moly-disulfide lube the carrier in the spray can allow the moly to soak into the metals surface,this stuff has been proven to coat the inside surface of rifle barrels and drastically reduce wear and friction even at temps of over 500 degs(F) and at pressures over 50,000psi,this forms your base layer,moly disulfide greatly increases the load and heat carrying ability of the lubericant and coating the surface with a layer of ultra-fine 20 micron moly before coating things with the lube gets the moly into the metal surfaces (check out the electron microscope photos) next use a good assembly lube that contains moly disulfide and/or zinc dialkyt-dithiophosphate both of which greatly add to the extreme pressure and heat resistance on the bearing or cam lobe surfaces. heres some sources; http://www.msmoly.com/ http://www.mrmoly.com/catalog.html http://www.schaefferoil.com/data/221.html http://64.90.9.168/cranecams/pdf/214e.pdf http://www.cranecams.com/instructions/valvetrain/camfail.htm these are proven Anti-Wear Agents These agents prevent wear due to seizure or rubbing surfaces. Compounds such a zinc dialkyt-dithiophosphate break-down microscopic hot spots and form a chemical filter which eliminates metal-to-metal contact. also read this because the quality of the oil you use also has a big effect on how your engine wears during its lifetime. http://www.micapeak.com/info/oiled.html REMEMBER WHAT YOUR TRYING TO ACCOMPLISH IS THE TOTAL PREVENTION OF METAL TO METAL CONTACT, AND ONLY THE BEST ANTI-WEAR LUBERICANTS PLACED BETWEEN CONTACT SURFACES AND FLOWING INTO THE CLEARANCES CAN DO THAT ! BTW DON,T FORGET TO PRELUBE THE ENGINE WITH AN ENGINE PRELUBER WHILE TURNING IT OVER BY HAND UNTILL OIL FLOWS FROM ALL THE PUSH RODS ONTO ALL THE ROCKER ARMS BEFORE STARTING A NEW ENGINE! and make sure your oil and coolent levels are correct too!

WAGZ post that question in the fuel injection forum at CHEVYTALK , DOUG who runs that forum is a HOLLEY ENGINEER and will know more about that.