grumpyvette

your neigbors may burn you at the stake later and piss on whats left of you in the ashes after they cool if you break-in that engine with open headers, but yes you could break in that engine with open shorty headers but hooking up the exhaust system will make everyone happier! try to set that engine at about 36 degs TOTAL ADVANCE for the break-in period that will keep you out of detonation and everything in the engine happy too.BACK PRESSURE IS BAD, BAD,BAD, the idea has gotten around that you need back pressure to build torque, FALSE!!!!!! that IDEA was prevalent because if you stick too large of an exhaust pipe on a low rpm engine it loses the ability to scavage the cylinders with the exhaust gas pulse in the exhaust with stock exhaust manifolds, some how the old wifes tale got around that you needed back pressure...FALSE.. what you need was EFFECTIVE CYLINDER SCAVAGEING which the smaller tail pipe dia. was provideing by acting like the collector on a set of headers!if you have headers , especially full length headers you can,t make the exhaust too large,THINK ABOUT IT! the first thing you do at the track is un-cork your headers....why? because YEARS OF TESTING PROVES, less BACK PRESSURE MAKES MORE HP WITH HEADERS!!!!

VERY CAREFULLY:D all kidding aside your going to need to ask much more specific questions about each part of the swap process,(like where do I get a swap kit? what are the points in the engine conpartment that are tight?, what wireing problems will i HAVE?, WHAT FIREWALL MODS ARE NECESSARY? etc. the guys on this site are great and will help you but that question is way to general for an inteligent answer and the compressor map for that stock single turbo is HIGHLY UNLIKELY to match a chevy V-8 flow chart or even 1/2 of the engines if you buy a second one, heres some flow maps http://www.turbofast.com.au/flowmaps.html here more info you need http://www.grapeaperacing.com/GrapeApeRacing/tech/turbosize.cfm http://www.turbofast.com.au/turbomap.html http://www.turbofast.com.au/javacalc.html heres the guy to talk too, he does lots of turbo swap work http://www.grapeaperacing.com/GrapeApeRacing/ http://www.grapeaperacing.com/GrapeApeRacing/links/links.htm heres an article you will find of interest http://www.geocities.com/monty_williams/ and I sugguest you contact these guys for engine install info, http://www.customconversion.com/ http://www.tciauto.com/specialty/adapter_kits.htm http://www.kennedyeng.com/ and a little info from you ,like what engine were talking about would help too> chevy v-8,262-400 OR ls1,lt1,lt5,409.348,454,366,427,502,396,496 mark 6,zl1 ETC.AND THATS JUST THE MORE COMMON ONES!

I know you already checked ALL YOUR CLEARANCES ARE CORRECT!RIGHT? ok first make sure the ignition timeing , coolent levels are correct, all the hoses are conected ETC and a good oil filter is installed, add a can of G.M. E.O.S. to the oil(G.M.part #1052367 ) ENGOILSUP EOS - Engine Assembly Prelube Specifically formulated as an engine assembly lubricant. E.O.S. provides outstanding protection against run-in wear and piston scuffing as well as run-in camshaft lobe and lifter scuffing resulting from insufficient lubrication.) fill the engine with a good brand of MINERAL BASE OIL of about 10w-30 weight (VALVEOLINE, ETC. anything with a S/G or S/H rateing next prime the oil pump while turning the engine over BY HAND SLOWLY untill oil runs out of all the push rod/rocker arms (if it doesn,t find out WHY BEFORE STARTING THE ENGINE) this is a good time to roughly adjust your valves if you have not yet done so. once everything checks outget the garden hose running if you might need it to cool the radiator and if you have one keep a fire extinguisher handy, check the float levels in the carb and fuel pressure is ok and fire it up with a timeing light on the motor, finish timeing it correctly and get it to at least 1500rpm-2000rpm and keep it at least that high for 15 minutes, if everything looks good take it for an around the block tour for an hour too 90 more minutes, bring it home, let it cool and change the oil filter(after 100 miles change the oil and oil filter again to mobile 1 synthetic in what ever weigth will keep 25lbs of hot oil pressure at idle, after you have changed to mobile 1 synthectic and broken in the rings and cam your ready to run the crap out of it at the 100 mile mark, by that time everthing is lapped in BTW I always stick four of these magnets in the corners of the oil pan sump , you will be amazed at how much metalic dust they pick out of the oil and keep from getting to your bearings,(either one works fine) http://www.wondermagnet.com/dev/magnet2.html http://www.wondermagnet.com/dev/magnet42.html synthetic oil has much greater film strength that it slows the lapping in of the lifters to cam lobes and rings to cylinder walls to a great extent, yes you can use synthetic oil to break in an engine but it will take longer and in some cases the rings don,t completely seal to the cylinders for about 500 miles while breaking in on mineral oil everythings lapped in by 100 miles or 3 hrs of running time. and yes constantly vary the engine speed durring break in but it must be in the 1500rpm-4000rpm window for proper oil flow/splash lubracation of the parts, btw this tool adds greatly to the oil flow to the cam lobes, http://www.compcams.com/catalog/335.html and read this http://www.melling.com/engoil.html http://www.melling.com/highvol.html Im NOT recommending you rev your new engine to 4000rpm, I Am saying its ok to let a new engine get to 4000rpm MAX for brief periods OCCASIONALLY going from gear to gear shifting under light load as a max rpm level as you accelerate going thru the gears in the car! only a total idiot would take an engine with (o) miles on it and go drag racing if the clearances are set up tight for long term use as a street driven car without at least some breakin time even if its just an hour cycling through the rpm ranges on a dyno. during the first hour of running time there is FAR MORE HEAT ON THE CONTACT POINTS AS THE RINGS AND LIFTERS LAP IN and those magnets I mentioned pick up lots of metalic dust, and that can get embeded into your bearings without those magnets. BASICALLY what your doing durring that first hour and to some extent the first hundred miles is letting all the high spots wear away and the metalic dust formed wash into the sump in the oil pan where its picked up by magnets if your smart or by the oil pump and hopefully trapped by the filter BEFORE IT GETS TO THE BEARINGS ETC.another reason they tell you to keep the engine rpms low durring breakin is to try to insure the oil filter bypass valve stays shut by keeping the oil pressure in the mid ranges to hopefully allow ALL the metallic dust to pass thru the filter,btw the main reason they tell you to keep the rpms at at least 1500rpm is because the cam is mostly lubracated by oil thrown from the spinning rods/crankshaft and below 1500rpm there is significantly less oil being thrown around in the lower block by the rotateing assembly and that the cam lobes on a flat tappet cam need to have that oil film on the lobes for the metal to lap in and work harden the mateing surfaces between the lifters and cam lobes. that tool I refered to causes high pressure oil to constantly spray on that lobe surface greatly increaseing the oil flow to the contact area and helping to prevent lobe failures, it also helpd spray extra oil on roller wheels on roller cams/lifters, look here at lifter #866 http://www.compcams.com/catalog/261.html notice the oil groove! that is there to do the same job!

picking a cam IS NOT GUESS WORK,BUT IT DOES REQUIRE YOU TO DO SOME HOME WORK! the cams rpm range must match your intended use for the engine without going over the engines REDLINE (on any non-all forged chevy v-8s thats 4000fpm of piston speed and even on all forged engines its best to stay under 4500fpm of piston speed) next the cam must not have valve lifts that cause clearance problems or have lifts much higher than the cylinder heads ports peak flow lift points,the dynamic compression ratio must be in the 8.0-8.5 range for best power and the the cams overlap must match its intended use too.read these posts. http://www.c4board.com/cgi-bin/ib3/ikonboard.cgi?s=3cb9d124047cffff;act=ST;f=10;t=94 http://www.c4board.com/cgi-bin/ib3/ikonboard.cgi?s=3cb9d124047cffff;act=ST;f=10;t=88 http://www.c4board.com/cgi-bin/ib3/ikonboard.cgi?s=3cb9d124047cffff;act=ST;f=10;t=87 http://www.c4board.com/cgi-bin/ib3/ikonboard.cgi?s=3cb9d124047cffff;act=ST;f=10;t=80 http://www.c4board.com/cgi-bin/ib3/ikonboard.cgi?s=3cb9d124047cffff;act=ST;f=10;t=68

http://www.revsearch.com/dynamometer/dyno_test_results_2.html

http://www.findarticles.com/cf_dls/m0BUW/10_39/56200303/p1/article.jhtml

ok first thing you need to understand is that that rough idle is almost intirely caused by the OVERLAP area in that cam, first read this http://www.c4board.com/cgi-bin/ib3/ikonboard.cgi?s=3cb9702b026dffff;act=ST;f=10;t=94 , btw your present combo shows as 421hp/416tq now you need at least 225 degs of intake duration to effectively spin that engine to 6000rpm but you really need a wide (112-114 LSA) to limit your overlap area to get that idle smoothed out, now a cam like that will have a wide torque curve but it will build slower as the rpms climb than that narrow LSA cam you have now, the CRANE# 113821 hydrolic flat tap cam will match those requirements http://dab7.cranecams.com/SpecCard/DisplayCatalogCard.asp?PN=113821&B1=Display+Card heres what the CRANE CATALOG SAYS "fair idle, moderate performance useage,good mid-range hp 3400-3800 cruiserpm 9.75-11 compression ratio advised basic rpm 3000-6000rpm"the computer shows 430hp/457tq " btw that comp cams #280h http://www.compcams.com/information/search/CamDetails.asp?PartNumber=12-212-2 heres what the comp cams catalog says "hydrolic-great for street machines. needs stall,headers & gears,rough idle" the computer shows 421hp/458tq now to be fair rememeber those are discriptions of the cam in a 350 displacement engine, because your running a larger engine the power will be higher, the torque will be better and the idle will be slightly better with both cams in your engine I hope you noticed the wider LSA and lower durration capture more cylinder pressure for a wider torque curve, thats what the more efficient dcr does for you

ok first your not realy comparing apples to apples here, first your cam only has .558 lift so the real flow charts are, rpm....pro-1.......afr .100 71 67.....100 80 67 .200 136 114...200 144 121 .300 197 160...300 208 157 .400 253 197...400 244 188 .500 287 217...500 262 202 .558 295 212...558 262 207 USEING YOUR FIGURES 523hp->552 hp is a 9.5% DIFFERANCE (CLOSE ENOUGH SINCE THE PRO-1 HEADS average INTAKE FLOW IS 222 VERUS 215CFM FOR THE afr A 9.7% DIFFERANCE. NOW AS FAR AS THOSE HP ESTIMATES GO MY DYNO PROGRAM SHOWS 500hp/506 tq for the afr and 538hp/532tq for the PRO-1 heads (a 9.3% differance BTW) and no the cam is on the ragged edge but not TOO big for a street strip engine as long as your not thinking of a daily driver and are only useing it for brief trips,the cam Im useing is the 119661 hydrolic roller and its really just a little to wild for long trips (230/238 dur .539/.558 112LSA) that cam in your combo will get you 505hp/527tq with the PRO-1 heads and 475hp/530 tq with the AFR according to the computer.

parts sources http://www.herbertperformance.com/Catalog/Doug_Herbert_Engine_Kits/doug_herbert_engine_kits.html http://www.racepartsstore.com/connecti.html Eagle SIR Rods Forged from 5140 steel, the SIR rod is 50% stronger than G.M."Pink" rods. Comes with ARP 190,000 bolts and are bushed for full floating pins. Comes in balanced sets. Part # Rod Length Price Per Set EAG SIR5700BB 5.7 $219.00 EAG SIR6000BB 6.0 $219.00 http://www.racepartsstore.com/trwfm.html http://www.racepartsstore.com/oilpans.html http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1819028674&r=0&t=0 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1820359382&r=0&t=0 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1820067713&r=0&t=0 http://www.flatlanderracing.com/index.html http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com/

http://www.racepartsstore.com/connecti.html http://www.racepartsstore.com/rotating.html Eagle SIR Rods Forged from 5140 steel, the SIR rod is 50% stronger than G.M."Pink" rods. Comes with ARP 190,000 bolts and are bushed for full floating pins. Comes in balanced sets. Part # Rod Length Price Per Set EAG SIR5700BB 5.7 $219.00 EAG SIR6000BB 6.0 $219.00 http://www.racepartsstore.com/trwfm.html http://www.racepartsstore.com/oilpans.html http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1819028674&r=0&t=0 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1820359382&r=0&t=0 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1820067713&r=0&t=0 http://www.flatlanderracing.com/index.html (look under)(Main >> Stroker Kits >> Chevrolet >> Small Block Engine >> Chevy 400 Block/411 cu. in. )

both cams will get close to the same power range (350-360hp), IF.. your useing block hugger type shorty headers not the stock exhaust manifolds on that engine the cam # 2 (looks like a summit or melling grind) will get you to 350hp and idle much smoother that the other one but neither one will idle perfectly smooth. but cam #2 is the better choice.

look this over, I posted it before but some of you missed it the first time! http://www.engr.rutgers.edu/~llongo/4K.html http://www.engr.rutgers.edu/~llongo/8K.html http://www.engr.rutgers.edu/~llongo/12K.html http://www.vrand.com/ex1.htm http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/rod-tech-c.htm http://www.vips.co.uk/demos/mech/conrod.htm http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/NewsInfo/NewsRels/NR110299E.html http://www.hayabusazone.com/rods.html http://www.findarticles.com/cf_0/m0BUW/5_40/61204109/print.jhtml NOTICE that the connecting rods high stress areas are areas the rod is under TENSION NOT COMPRESSION , most people fail to realize rods tend to fail on the exhaust stroke where there is less opposeing force slowing the piston as it nears tdc, rods commonly fail from being streached not compressed, and the points the tend to fail at are the rod bolts, or just under the small end holding the piston pin and the large end where the rod changes size to go around the crank journal, now it mostly depends on the QUALITY of materials used, the care used in manufactureing and overall design but (H) type rods normally place more steel in these stressed areas for the total weight of the rod than (I) type rods so thats why you see those type rods in the higher stressed engines but like I said a QUALITY rod of EITHER DESIGN works fine, and its the rod BOLTS that normally fail first,or the area just under the piston pin from stress cracks when you pull an engine apart and find the rod broken in most cases a rod bolt failed first and as the crank started slapping the loose rod against the block it bent and broke the rod, its not normal to find a big end of the rod still on the crank with good bearings and bolts yet broken in the center area , look again at the stress analysis color photos ans see what IM talking about!

normally you can have the pistons you have now cut to fit snap ring retainers for the floating piston pins (not the best IDEA) forged pistons already set up to take floating pins (which can be much lighter in weight, extending your rpm range) will be lighter,stronger,can be matched EXACTLY to your blocks deck height and in the long run will be cheaper than getting both the block and old pistons machined to get the correct quench distance in most cases

look here, useing a mixed set of stock chevy rods is nuts on a high performance engine,look at at least these(EAG SIR5700BB 5.7 $219.00 ) http://www.racepartsstore.com/connecti.html Eagle SIR Rods Forged from 5140 steel, the SIR rod is 50% stronger than G.M."Pink" rods. Comes with ARP 190,000 bolts and are bushed for full floating pins. Comes in balanced sets. Part # Rod Length Price Per Set EAG SIR5700BB 5.7 $219.00 EAG SIR6000BB 6.0 $219.00 http://www.racepartsstore.com/trwfm.html http://www.racepartsstore.com/oilpans.html http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1819028674&r=0&t=0 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1820359382&r=0&t=0 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1820067713&r=0&t=0

"I would of loved to use the rods, pistions and crank " HERES AN IDEA........JUST BUY THE rods, pistons and crank

here this may help http://www.jonbarrett.com/383.php3 http://www.dallasexportsales.com/383sb.html http://www.built4speed.com/ http://www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?action=prod_detail&catid=120&pid=465

$1300 is alot of money for some parts you don,t really need, what you do need is to have a list of parts that your engine build needs to have all the parts work well together......then for you to get all the parts on the list! make that list up and check off the parts as you get them! the NUMBER ONE MOST COMMON MISTAKE EVERYONE NEW TO THIS HOBBY SEEMS TO MAKE is BUYING DEALS that don,t match the other parts or rpm range that they need for all the parts to work together correctly! what you have iron eagle heads.. CHECK block..............CHECK CRANKSHAFT..........CHECK forged pistons......??? 6" forged rods......?? edelbrock #2975 intake??? cam...................??? 7 qt 7" deep oilpan ...?? HEADERS................?? high volume oil pump...?? good CLOYES ROLLER CHAIN..?? ARP 2 BOLT MAIN STUD KITthat fits a windage screen ..?? MILODON WINDAGE SCREEN...?? GET THE IDEA!!!!!!!!

carefully polishing the combustion chamber and cleaning up the area under the valve are great ideas IF YOU WORK SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY AND HAVE A JUNK PAIR OF VALVES INSTALLED WHEN YOUR CLOSE TO THE VALVE SEATS TO PROTECT THEM but those heads are so good right out of the box the total amount of work necessary is minimal. read this, while not the same heads the info is good:D remember your NOT TRYING TO INLARGE OR TOTALLY RESHAPE THE PORTS,you are trying to remove casting flaws and smooth and blend rough edges! http://www.ws6transam.org/ported.html http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.htm http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyguide.shtm http://www.sa-motorsports.com/

HOW TO BUILD THE SMALL BLOCK CHEVEROLET by LARRY ATHERTON&LARRY SCHREIB . HOW TO BUILD MAX PERFORMANCE CHEVY SMALL BLOCKS ON A BUDGET by DAVID VIZARD . JOHN LINGENFELTER on modifying small-block chevy engines these are the three important books, CORRECTLY DONE PORTING IS A BIG HELP, but polishing has been shown to add little or no power gains, in fact a slightly rough finish helps keep the fuel in the intake port air stream.

OK LINKS REPOSTED AND NEW STUFF ADDED! in the POST ABOVE

Duration vs overlap ? ok what your trying to do is keep the DCR as high as the fuel octane will allow and the duration and lift matching the rpm level you want to be most effective in, now lift per deg. of rotation is limited by the max feed ramp angle that the type of lifter your useing will allow without haveing the edge of the lifter contact the surface of the cam lobe as the cam rotates under the lifter and that is limited by the dia. of the cam lobes base circle to lift ratio and the dia. of the lifter or in the case of roller lifters the dia. of the roller wheel. thats why the ford guys have a slight advantage in that stock chevy lifters are 0.842" and fords are 0.874" this allows the ford cam lobes to be slightly more aggressive and thats also why those mushroom base lifters are used in racing engines in classes not allowing roller lifters. now the main idea is to get the valve open as fast as possiable and closed as fast as possiable within the limits the valve train can support in the rpm range you want max power in , since power is basically the engines torque x rpm and the rate at which it can be produced, and torque is basically cylinder pressure times piston surface area times leverage( max crank stroke) times the number of power strokes per minute your looking for max torque at the max rpm your engine can effectively flow air into the cylinders, so your looking for a ballance between the shortest possiable duration to maximize cylinder pressure that keeps the valves open long enough at that rpm level time wise for max air flow to fill those cylinders, ballanced against the least overlap that will provide efficient exhaust scavageing at that rpm level.now alot depends on the cylinder volume versus port flow numbers but in general (for racing)were talking about a rpm range in or near 6000-7500rpm and a intake duration of 245-255 for a 396-454 chevy with a 106-110 LSA and a .600-.700 lift for street use a rpm range of 1000-3000rpm drops you back to about 220-230 duration 108-112 LSA and .450-.550 lift but as I said before port flow and compression have a big effect on your choice here.ports that dont flow well may require a tighter LSA and longer durations in the cam you pick to allow greater time in which the cylinders can fill at those rpms and of course the 454 and larger engines haveing greater cylinder volume to fill tend to favor those longer durations and tighter lobe seperation angles more than the 396. also read these threads. http://www.chevytalk.org/forums/Forum64/HTML/008208.html http://www.chevytalk.org/forums/Forum64/HTML/008029.html these are the valve timeing overlap ranges that are most likely to work correctly trucks/good mileage towing 10-35 degs overlap daily driven low rpm performance 30-55degs overlap hot street performance 50-75 degs overlap oval track racing 70-95degs overlap dragster/comp eliminator engines 90-115 degs overlap but all engines will need the correct matching dcr for those overlap figures to correctly scavage the cylinders in the rpm ranges that apply to each engines use range. example http://dab7.cranecams.com/SpecCard/DisplayCatalogCard.asp?PN=114681&B1=Display+Card here is a hot street cam that works great in many CARBERATED 383 camaros with at least 10.5 static cpr with 3.5-4.1 gears now the timeing is intake opens 29.0 btdc, closes 71.0 abdc exhaust opens 77.0 bbdc, closes 31.0 atdc so if we add the 29 to the 31 we get the overlap duration of 60 degs of which makes this cam fall in the center of HOT STREET look here and copy this first, http://www.crower.com/misc/valve_timing_chart.html copy ALL the charts this gives you a referance for the intake and exhaust closeing points at .050 lift to work from on cams listed with no .050 lift specs . while not strictly 100% accurate adding 20 degrees to both the intake BTDC and exhaust ATDC.050 timeing figure (for solid lifter cams)(HYDROLIC CAMS have the seat specs listed at .004 seat already in most cases)will get you very close to the seat to seat figures for calc purposes. and the lift figures on the crane cams spec card,that state lift is figured at (0) lash means that the lash needs to be subtracted from the total lift figure just like every other manufactures solid lift cam figures, but don,t forget while solid lift cam figures are minus lash to get true valve lift hydrolic cams can loose up to .040 thousands due to lifter pushrod seat collapsing durring valve lift from valve spring pressure forceing the oil in the lifter seat out. those of you that doubt it It depends on the type hydrolic lifter and the rpm range and from what Ive seen, tested, and read the RHOADS hydrolic lifters give up .040 lift at idle and , the CRANE FAST BLEED DOWN #99377 loose about .020-.030 lift at idle,(look it up in the CRANE catalog in their description of those 99377 high intensity/fast bleed lifters) but also keep in mind the hydrolics tend to gain lift as the rpms increase due to the bleed down time becomeing ever shorter as the rpms increase untill at about 3500rpm(again it depends on the type of lifter,spring pressure,oil pressure, engine clearances ,ETC.)the hydrolics tend to get close to their rated lifts.also look here ( btw they don,t work as well as the advertiseing would lead you to beleive http://www.amotion.com/tech/rhoads.html notice even in the RHOADS description they say about lift on a .450 lift cam (it can be more)just throw in heavy valve springs and a high lift cam and a 1.6 ratio rocker and that same .025 will be way closer to .040 Rhoads At Idle .425" At 2000 rpm .447" At 3500 rpm .450"

need an odd thickness head gasket look here http://www.scegaskets.com/results_IE4.asp Gasket Bore 4.060 Thickness .021" special order thickness. Gasket Bore 4.060 Thickness .032" Gasket Bore 4.060 Thickness .043" Gasket Bore 4.060 Thickness .050" Gasket Bore 4.060 Thickness .062" Gasket Bore 4.060 Thickness .072" special order thickness. Gasket Bore 4.060 Thickness .080" Gasket Bore 4.060 Thickness .093" special order thickness. Gasket Bore 4.155 Thickness .021" 400 Gasket has no steam between cylinders, Special Order Thickness. Gasket Bore 4.155 Thickness .032" 400 Gasket has no steam between cylinders Gasket Bore 4.155 Thickness .043" 400 Gasket has no steam between cylinders. Gasket Bore 4.155 Thickness .050" 400 Gasket has no steam between cylinders. Gasket Bore 4.155 Thickness .062" 400 Gasket has no steam between cylinders Gasket Bore 4.155 Thickness .072" 400 Gasket has no steam between cylinders, Special Order Thickness. Gasket Bore 4.155 Thickness .093" 400 Gasket has no steam between cylinders,Special Order Thickness. CHEVROLET 265-400ci V8 SMALL BLOCK PRO COPPER Head Gaskets Gasket Bore 4.200 Thickness .021" 400 Gasket has no steam between cylinders,Special Order Thickness. CHEVROLET 265-400ci V8 SMALL BLOCK PRO COPPER Head Gaskets Gasket Bore 4.200 Thickness .032" 400 Gasket has no steam between cylinders. CHEVROLET 265-400ci V8 SMALL BLOCK PRO COPPER Head Gaskets Gasket Bore 4.200 Thickness .043" 400 Gasket has no steam between cylinders. CHEVROLET 265-400ci V8 SMALL BLOCK PRO COPPER Head Gaskets Gasket Bore 4.200 Thickness .050" 400 Gasket has no steam between cylinders. CHEVROLET 265-400ci V8 SMALL BLOCK PRO COPPER Head Gaskets Gasket Bore 4.200 Thickness .062" 400 Gasket has no steam between cylinders CHEVROLET 265-400ci V8 SMALL BLOCK PRO COPPER Head Gaskets Gasket Bore 4.200 Thickness .072" 400 Gasket has no steam between cylinders, Special Order Thickness.

Luigi Im useing a customized version of ENGINE ANALYZER PRO to do those calcs. http://www.auto-ware.com/software/eap/eap.htm but this is a better program http://www.rapidline.com/calc/

just pointing out a pattern here guys(notice it takes these heads that flow over 310cfm-320 plus cfm to get those high hp numbers? ) and like the formula says( .257 x intake flow x 8 = potential hp so 310cfm x .257 x 8=637 potential (N/A) hp. now since an engine running N/A has about21% oxygen to mix with fuel and burn and nitrous has about 40% oxygen to burn with the fuel in theory a engine that makes 600hp n/a can make 1.9 times that hp on a full nitrios injected fuel load or 1143 hp , of course other factors like the crankshaft ripping out holes in the oil pan tend to prevent that with all but the best most expensive parts

just one question? 1fastz while the performance of that nitrous enhanced engines horsepower is damn impressive what does the fact that hp gained through adding nitrious and fuel have to do with the discussion? since you can add fuel and nitrous in increaseingly larger amounts to any sbc engine to reach any power level you choose if direct port injected nitrous/fuel is used untill the pistons melt or the crank snaps, and even a plate system can get 500plus hp, the use of nitrous has nothing to do with the normal 1.3hp per cubic inch hp limit of N/A engines. and as John Scott said" , how much head flow in cfm, (using a realistic good aftermarket head) compression, cam lift/duration is necessary for these figures? ( w/o a power adder, I doubt that 600 can be accomplished and still be considered streetable, no?) please dont take this a criticism,of what you have acheived with that car, its not! its just that a nitrous engine is not a reasonable example here. turbo charged sb based chevys of only 202 cubic inch displacement running toluene /nitromethane mix and 60lbs of boost get 1600 plus hp but thats not a reasonable example either.