grumpyvette

if theres one thing Ive learned its that a few QUALITY PARTS are better than lots of junk, and start with the best interior and body you can!

casting# 14011083...55-86...350..........Crate motor for years indicated. 285/300hp, 64cc chambers, 1.94"/1.5" valves This cylinder head is a service head less valves and springs which is used on the 350 ci (300 hp) engine. This head is an excellent replacement for street use. It has 1.94" intake valves, 1.50" exhaust valves with 64cc chambers. They require late model center hold down valve covers. Technical Notes: This cylinder head has 64cc chambers. The cast number for this head is P/N 14011083 or P/N 14096217. This head has the standard 1955-86 angle manifold attachment holes. this is your low end crate motor iron head for center bolt valve covers and the old more common style intakes(before vortec style).while not top of the line it is not a bad street head and yes,THAT CAM WILL GET YOU ABOUT 25 MORE HP THAN THE STOCK CAM (if it fits valve clearance wise) BUT IF YOU WANT THAT ENGINE TO KICK A$$, BETTER HEADS WILL BE NECESSARY especially if you want over 425 hp. you cam check your clearances by measureing the installed valve spring height (about 1.8") then the compressed height as the retainer hits the valve guide(use a light checking spring and a valve spring compressor)now subtract that from the other measurement and add .050 for minimum clearance to see what your max cam lift is) example spring measures 1.750" installed , less 1.225 compressed height when hitting valve guide=.525-.050 for clearance =.475 total lift space available (very common measurements) that would mean your .510 lift roller cam will require new springs, possiably new retainers and valve guide machine work to fit or the first time you run it the cam will wipe a lobe from binding valve train pressures. now the next thing is after the heads get fixed you need to check piston to valve clearances (not likely to be a problem but check anyway to be safe!!) you can avoid some of this by buying better aftermarket heads (most come set up for at least a .540 minimum lift clearance, some are set up for as much as .700 lift) lets say the machine shop wants $200 for a 3 angle valve job,$250 to install bigger 2.02/1.6" valves and $80 for installing screw in rocker studs and $75 to clearance the valve guides and install new valve seals on your heads (COMMON PRICES)thats $600 in heads work and your still stuck with heads that flow less than 245cfm if you sell the heads you have for lets say $150 to someone who needs good repair heads and buy a set of 215cc iron eagle heads youll spend $740-the $150 you got for the old heads=$590 and gain about 45 more hp with the head change and they are already set up for a .540 lift and flow better than 270cfm look here http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com/mms.nsf/pages/Specials

sounds like a good deal to me as just the engine/trans combo sells for about $2000-$2300 most places.

Andrew Bayley is correct nitrious gives you the most hp per dollar but if the engines not built to handle it stick to a 100hp shot max! and the big problem is your only superman as long as the bottles full! (you will be surprised how fast that bottle needs refilling)

a carefully matched cam, lifters and full length headers will give you the most hp/torque for your money, but keep in mind that any cam that will give you a big boost in hp/tq numbers may also require that you get better valve springs and have extra clearances machined on your cylinder heads.a crane # 113841 solid lifter cam and headers can easily get you up to 80hp on a stock 350 chevy (depends on which cylinder heads you have) BUT YOU WILL NEED THE BETTER SPRINGS< AND CLEARANCES MACHINED ON MOST STOCK CYLINDER HEADS TO GET IT TO WORK.

USE MOBILE 1 SYNTHETIC oil its perfectly happy and will not break down at temps up to 260f degs.(and can handle 275 degs for short periods (days at a time but not constantly) with no damage to the oil)BTW you need oil temps of about 215f degs minimum to burn off impurities in the oil so try for oil temps of 215f degs, water temps of 180-200f degs.(lower oil and water temps cost you power) and thats from SMOKEY YUNICKS RESEARCH FOR G.M. RACING AND NASCAR RACING ENGINES on whats best for long term engine wear and power production!! and even normal mineral base oil can run 225-230f degs for weeks without significant break down!(but above 240 degs it starts to break down) to quote SMOKEY,"the best mineral oils flash(burn)at 320 degs f but a good synthetic can withstand operating temps as high as 500 degs f for hours" BTW SMOKEY WAS TALKING ABOUT OIL TEMPS on the bearing surfaces not in the sump. try for that 260f max sump temp.

this is about the most hp and torque WITH A GUARANTEE that you can get for the money, and they are NEW ENGINES NOT REBUILT they go from basic to kick A$$ http://www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?action=prod_detail&catid=128&pid=110 http://www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?action=prod_detail&catid=120&pid=464 http://www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?action=catalog_start&catid=1579 http://www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?action=prod_detail&catid=120&pid=119 http://www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?action=prod_detail&catid=1579&pid=14349

you don,t really need a dry sump system on the street like the guys have said, now a good oil cooler, and baffled pan with a milodon wrap around windage screen is more than adequate, heres the parts I use and Ive never had a problem.(btw the pan sump is extended with the extra sump kit so it holds 9.5 qts and the oil cooler holds about 2 qts)(use only MOBILE 1 SYNTHETIC OIL)AND GET WHAT EVER OIL COOLER FITS YOUR CAR/available space) (1) Claimer Oil Pan Sump U Build 2 Trap Doors included MWM 15900 25.99 Each (1)Oil Pan 8 Qt Kevko Modified Racing w/ Trapdoors Info Pic KEV 1090 89.99 Each (1)Rear Oil Pan Baffle Mounts under Pump Pic MOR 23000 6.99 Each (1) Oil Pump Moroso Racing High Volume Oil Pump Info Pic MOR 22100 59.99 Each (I ALSO USE BIG BLOCK CHEVY HIGH PRESSURE STANDARD VOLUUM PUMPS BUT THE SBC PUMP FITS BETTER AND IS EASIER TO INSTALL) (1)Windage Tray Small Block Chevy the Diamond Stripper Info Pic MIL 32250 79.99 Each (1) Windage Tray Stud Kit 6 pcs Pic MIL 81150 39.99 Kit FROM http://www.parts123.com/PartFrame.asp?ZTM=cadefjgb&GHOME=www.mi dwestmotorsportsinc.com&TITLE=Midwest_Motorsport (8)of these http://www.wondermagnet.com/dev/magnet42.html 4 in the sump corners, 2 in the upper pan where the oil will need to flow over them to fall in the sump and 1 next too each of the rear oil drain holes in the heads. with the extended sump and these parts you are not going to have oil pressure troubles. now, do you need such an extensive wet sump system,..for the street of course not!but if your going to run the hell out of that sbc like I do sometimes, HELL YES>>> ITS GREAT INSURANCE,OILS CHEAP AT $4.00 A QT compared to a blown engine and I smile when I pay $59 for an oil change , where else can you spend $59 dollars every 3000 miles that almost GUARANTEES your ENGINE LASTS YEARS WITH NO PROBLEMS EVEN WHEN YOU RUN THE HELL OUT OF IT!!!!

still no response so,anyone else want to sell a clean sbc powered z-car???

still no pics?????? please post them on this site if you don,t want to send them direct!!!

blue printing an engine is basically just getting everything machined to the perfect specs, now in the real world chevy does a reasonably good job and if you get super exact on makeing everything perfect the machine shop will build a new wing in your honnor with the money you spend getting everything to that last .oooo1 inch clearance but your engine will only gain a few hp over your average QUALITY ENGINE BUILD UP, buy a few BETTER QUALITY PARTS WITH THE MONEY , don,t put your machinists kids through YALE or HARVARD

thats rare but it can and does happen with most cast cam cores from any manufacturer if they were ever dropped.the cast iron cores are hard like glass to keep from wearing and are easily broken if dropped, now Im not saying you dropped it but its likely someone someware did,at some time, I had it happen with a lunati cam once that I bought years ago.

there are no stupid questions if asking the questions prevents mistakes, no matter how small! the biggest mistake most people make is not researching the correct answers before buying parts!

"I think there was something lost in the translation..." ok your correct something must have been lost in the idea transfer sorry if I did not understand correctly what you were saying Ill try harder

Mikelly I THINK YOUR MISSING THE POINT.....IF YOU HAD BALLANCED THAT ENGINE, USED ALL arp BOLTS, USED A BRACED/BOLT ON, OIL PUMP PICKUP IN A BAFFLED OILPAN AND USED ONLY QUALITY PARTS IT WOULD NOT HAVE VIBRATED AS MUCH AND WOULD MOST LIKELY NOT HAVE VIBRATED/BROKEN THAT OIL PUMP PICKUP

REPEAT THIS 1000 TIMES ,THINK EVERYTHING THROUGH BEFORE SPENDING MONEY AND MAKE SURE ALL PARTS MATCH THE INTENDED RPM LEVEL AND HP GOAL you start by desideing the hp level and amount of money you can afford (and yes it will cost slightly more than your highest estimate) now theres two ways to go, you either build a all forged ,ballanced kick a$$ engine like a 406 with good flowing heads for about $2800-$5000(about 450-475 real hp) or you pick up a 350 out of some wreck, add good heads,cam,intake,headers, and new rings and bearings and spend about $1600-$2500 for about 385hp for an average hot street rebuild. now my advise is get a copy of these books and read them first!!!! how to build max performance CHEVY small blocks on a budget by DAVID VIZARD BTW IF YOU BUILD ENGINE EXAMPLE #5 USE THESE HEADS IT WILL PRODUCE BETTER POWER CHEAPER Dart Iron Eagle Heads Assembled using Manley valves, .550 lift valve springs, hardened locks, steel retainers, screw-in studs and guide plates. Refined intake and exhaust ports High efficient 64cc or 72cc combustion chamberBronze valve guides Angle or Straight plug location 200cc, 215cc, or 230cc intake runners 2.05 intake and 1.60 exhaust valves Completely Assembled . . . . . . $739.99 http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com/mms.nsf/pages/Specials JOHN LINGENFELTER on modifying small-block chevy engines by john lingenfelter how to build the SMALLBLOCK CHEVROLET BY LARRY ATHERTON&LARRY SCHREIB AND HERE WHERE TO A GET MUCH STRONGER ROTATING ASSEMBLY http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/smblkchevyrotating.html

Dan Juday yes so would I, but the Idea was that each runner with the new mods can draw air flow voluum from the other runner on its intake stroke thus making the engine act like the runners are shorter and larger in voluum that the stock set up.the main problem with the stock setup is the ports and runners were designed for a 305cid engine and about 4500rpm max while a 350-383 tends to run out of air trying to breath through those runners at an even lower rpm in stock form, his idea is basically the same as the other aftermarket intakes (increase the plenum voluum and shorten the runner length to raise the rpm levels the ports can breath at.)

nosz350 please get some pics to my brother-in-law and to me, we both may be interested. heres our e-mail addresses melect2233@aol.com prlangevin@hotmail.com

http://www.racepartsstore.com/ross.html http://www.herbertperformance.com/Catalog/Pistons/SRP_Pistons/srp_pistons.html you can,t use cast and hypereutectics are not really up to long distance racing either but most forged pistons will be fine, don,t get the idea that hyper pistons will work , they are much better than cast but if the motor gets into detonation the hypers crystalize and crack MUCH FASTER THAN FORGED PISTONS.

these sites may be of interest to you guys, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=602091914 http://www.racepartsstore.com/rotating.html

heres one guys porting job,the idea was to increase airflow in the extremely restricted tpi intake http://www.geocities.com/softtailduece01/

in theory your supposed to change the A.R.P. rod bolts each time you rebuild the engine, but in the real world even I reuse them IF THE ENGINE HAS NOT HAD PROBLEMS OR BEEN OVER STRESSED in any way,or if your just pulling the engine down to re-ring and change bearings on a maint. rebuild. but useing a rod bolt streach gage to check the bolts on every rebuild is a great idea btw I never reuse them if even (1) fails the streach gage test!

my brother-in-law is looking to buy a sbc powered Z-car ,and prefers not to do the swap himself.(hes not really a car guy as far as knowing what hes doing) does anyone have one for sale in the fla. area?

thats not a bad idea but the cost might be quite a bit higher than a standard super victor intake and a demon 750 cfm carb. yes the flow path is better and the hp will be slightly higher with the dominator type set up ,(and the visual impression when you open the hood will be great with the dominator series carb) and no the not haveing a choke will not be a big problem on a fair weather only driven car.(BTW you will most likely need a hood scoop for hood clearance)

that kit is the cam,bearings,pistons,gaskets, oil pump, and rings,its a good start if your rebuilding a 350 chevy you already own. but ITS MISSING THE EXPENSIVE PARTS,crankshaft and rods,damper,flex plate/flywheel if your starting an engine build from scratch.btw your probably better off buying each part seperately although the total price will be higher , the QUALITY of the parts will be MUCH HIGHER IF YOU BUY NAME BRAND PARTS that youll get in that kit!plus you will be MUCH more likely to get a cam that perfectly matches your engines intended torque curve.