grumpyvette

ascilifared what are those heads going on? what are your plans for the car? SR torquers may or may not be a good choice for your engine , theres no sence wasteing money buying the wrong heads then replaceing them later!

sure. http://www.findarticles.com/cf_offrd/m1185/n4_v31/19168101/p1/article.jhtml http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.htm http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyguide.shtm http://www.ws6transam.org/ported.html http://racerhelp.com/article_racing-10.html

NO,I got 107 questions from the several sites IM a moderator on, and I do not remember seeing anything from here , please resend it with attention grumpyvette , Ill look for it

I use a customized version of ENGINE ANALYZER PRO dyno program just for your info.heres the computers idea of reality and yes Im guessing at a few things here but lets see how close it is. rpm ..hp/tq 2000..148/388 3000..247/432 4000..372/488 5000..480/505 6000..522/456 7000..490/367

read this most of the info is useful http://home.hiwaay.net/~ppatter/ovalvsrect.htm http://home.hiwaay.net/~ppatter/patrick_budd_article.htm http://www.skunk.net/boatengines-496.htm

3932454....69-73...307 3932454....69-79...350..........Truck 462624.....75-86...350/400......76cc chamber, 1.72/1.5, 1.94/1.5 or 2.02/1.6 valves those heads dont look like they match?? you need to at least have MATCHING HEADS GUY

your not overthinking anything but a correctly designed remote filter system has check valves that prevent the oil from draining back into the pan, and the better quality oil filters themselves have those check valves also.

there are no repeat no overheating problems with properly built 383 engine anymore that with similar 350 engines, the 400-406 engines do tend to run slightly warmer because of the siamesed cylinder walls but they too if the engine is built correctly with the steam holes properly drilled in the heads and gasket run just fine with no OVERHEATING PROBLEMS. you can reasonably expect a 350 - 406 engine to make about 1.1 hp per cubic inch of displacement for $3500-$4000 1.2 hp per cid in the $5000 range and 1.3 per hp in the $6000 range with no nitrious now Im sure not saying you cant make more than that but thats about average, in DAVID VIZARDS book {max performance CHEVY small blocks on a budget} he gets 500hp from a 350 for $3000 and 550hp from a 406 for $3000 but it takes carefully checked swap meet parts deals lots of careful hand labor, carefully picked used parts and lots of knowledge of what works and what won,t and days of cylinder head porting,your best rought is get the very best flowing heads you can afford on the largest displacement engine you can build for the money you want to spend and a cam that matches your combo and intended use, look here at these sites its a good starting place for combos,but notice all the high hp engines have good high dollar heads and in most cases roller cams. http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos.html http://personal.clt.bellsouth.net/clt/m/g/mgervin/chp/chp.htm http://www.findarticles.com/cf_offrd/m1185/n4_v31/19168096/p1/article.jhtml http://www.airflowresearch.com/ (look at the dyno tests) but remember DART PRO 230cc heads, IRON EAGLE 215cc-230cc)HEADS and CANFIELD 220cc heads can give quite similar hp numbers too if properly matched parts and correctly done head work is done!(those big hp numbers almost never are from (out of the box heads from any manufacturer)(in most cases you can do your own head work but if your not up to it,heres a good head port guy btw, http://www.ondoperformance.com/ heres a good intake and injection system guy http://fuelinjectorclinic.com/ heres crane cams tech line 386-258-6174 Tech Line

the chance of retorqueing the heads and stopping the leak is just a little bit worse than your chances of your wife takeing a second mortgage and getting a second job so she can get the money to get you a mistress! (SORRY COME BACK TO EARTH) pull the heads and do it correctly

TRUCKS SPEND 99.999% OF THERE TIME IN THE IDLE-4500RPM RANGE WHERE A SET OF SLIGHTLY WORKED ON STOCK HEADS WILL WORK REASONABLY WELL , spending money on high priced heads for a heavy truck with most of its time spent in that rpm range is not a great return on your money.

if your just looking for a quick reving engine the main factors are overcomeing the enertia of the rotateing assembly and compression ratio and air flow through the cylinder heads,and cam timeing, so ... get the lightest crank, flywheel,rods,pistons and the highest compression ratio the fuel your useing will allow with a cam thats in the 240-250@.050 lift duration range and almost reguardless of stroke length(yes the shorter stroke will be somewhat faster at building rpms but not POWER) the engine will climb the rpms like a rocket . but TRUST ME JUST A LITTLE BIT HERE WHEN I SAY THIS, (IF THE RULES ALLOW IT AND A RATIO OF CUBIC INCHES OF DISPLACEMENT TO WEIGHT IS NOT A FACTOR ALMOST EVERY KNOWLEDGEABLE ENGINE BUILDER WILL BUILD AN ENGINE IN THE 377-427 CID RANGE (SBC ENGINES) IF MAX HP IN A SET CAR WEIGHT IS THE GOAL) THE ONLY REASON ANYONE BOTHERS RUNNING 302-360 CID ENGINES IN COMPETITION IS CLASS RULES MAKE IT MANDATORY. THERES NOT A SINGLE NASCAR TEAM THAT WOULD NOT RUN AN ALUMINUM BIG BLOCK ENGINE OF 525-565CID IF THE RULES WOULD ALLOW IT, ITS JUST A FACT THE MORE CUBIC INCHES OF DISPLACEMENT EQUALS MORE POTENTIAL HP! BTW once you engage the clutch or transmission and the engine is working against the car weight and gearing its the RATE at which TORQUE PER MINUTE can be applied to the rear wheels that counts and that almost totally depends on effectively useing the largest possiable displacement efficiently if your looking for the most effective combo! NOTICE NOT ONE HIGH HP ENGINE IS UNDER 350 CID and most are over 400cid! LOOK HERE,just some info/options the 400 can be bored and stroked to about 427-440 cid look here,and NOT ONE OF THESE ENGINES NEEDS TO SPIN OVER 7000rpm,BTW some of these guys are running over 1200hp http://www.theengineshop.com/engine5.shtml http://www.amerspeed.com/engine_prices.htm http://www.shafiroff.com/434_sportsengine.html http://www.lingenfelter.com/packages/427TT.htm http://www.golensengineservice.com/engineDetail.asp?engine=85 http://www.geocities.com/monty_williams/ http://www.skulte.com/turbo.html http://www.grapeaperacing.com/GrapeApeRacing/ http://www.turboclub.com/aturbo.htm

btw http://www.kendrick-auto.com/dart_cs_iron_eagle_215.htm these are the flow numbers with a minor port job

the SR torqers are good heads for your application and they will most likely not require a change to a new intake. the vortecs flow about the same but if you are not useing vortec heads now the intake on the truck now won,t fit them, if the head gasket is the only problem with your engine why dont you just get a 3 angle valve job, pocket port the heads and reinstall them with a new gasket set.

1250F-1300F or 950K-978K for the site try sizeing the headers for max hp but at 1000rpm lower than your engines red line rpm

whats the casting # on those heads if its 10239906 or 12558062 there vortec heads and with some minor port work they a very good truck heads

DON,T pay some MECHANIC $3000 to do your engine swap, join a few corvette or hotrod clubs, buy some tools and LEARN HOW TO DO THE WORK YOURSELFnot only will you save SOME money, youll have the tools and knowledge to fix things when they break, look at it this way most guys that are really into hodrod cars will have little or no problem helping you for free or possiably for a exchange of labor (as in, Ill help you drop your engine in if you help me replace my rear suspension)the KEY HERE IS LEARNING as you go, building friendships, joining clubs and helping the other guys, everything you do you will learn something about even if its NEVER DO THAT AGAIN UNLESS ITS MY CAR buy these FIVE books, it will be the best money you ever spent, read them, and you will be miles ahead of the average guy. HOW TO BUILD THE SMALL BLOCK CHEVEROLET by LARRY ATHERTON&LARRY SCHREIB . HOW TO BUILD MAX PERFORMANCE CHEVY SMALL BLOCKS ON A BUDGET by DAVID VIZARD . JOHN LINGENFELTER on modifying small-block chevy engines how to build & modify CHEVROLET small-block V-8 CAMSHAFTS & VALVTRAINS BY DAVID VIZARD SMOKEY YUNICK,S POWER SECRETS look at it this way a very good welder will cost you perhaps $1000 with all the accessories http://www.weldersmall.com/cgi-bin/weldersmall/browse?workingCategoryID=4673 with that and $100 worth of books and a few semi inteligent friends that swap is just a few weekends work, theres nothing you cant make in the way of motor or transmission mounts or headers that a little knowledge a few friends and $150-$300 worth of steel won,t build you and your engine goal of 300hp can be reached for under $1800 very easily and when you through you will have marketable new skills, a welder you can sell, and the ablity to work on your own car! plus the guys on this site can answer almost any question for you

read this its fairly well done http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/howto/compression.htm helpfull stuff http://www.turbofast.com.au/TFcomp.html http://cochise.uia.net/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html http://cochise.uia.net/pkelley2/crc.htm

yes the larger valve has a lot to do with it but one of the things that the DD-2000 program does not show is that the flow numbers are derived useing just the cylinder head on a flow bench while the larger 215cc head really flows quite a bit better than the 200cc head at almost every lift when an intake and headers are attached in an engine with moveing pistons and valves like in a real engine because most airflow in an intake port is along the roof of the port to the far side of the valve not evenly across the intire ports area, the larger valve and port gives the airflow more room to straiten the flow as the valve changes lifts and remember that valve is moveing open and closed 30-70 times a second in a running engine where that airflow must pulse into the cylinder but air flow rateings are taken with the valve locked at a set lift (something that NEVER HAPPENDS in a real engine) remember at 6000rpm that valve is only open for about 230-250 degs out of the 720 deg cycle, thats a time frame of about 1/3 of the cycle time and the valve is expected to flow air into the cylinder 3000 times a minute or ever 1/50th of a second for only about 13 thousands of a second, I could get into pulse harmonics but look here, the presure waves move at several cyclic rates, some as fast as the speed of sound (roughly 900ft per second) and since the valve itself is also moveing flow bench data taken with a stationary valve is only a EXTREMELY POOR way to judge port flow. http://www.bgsoflex.com/intakeln.html http://www.grapeaperacing.com/GrapeApeRacing/tech/intakehelmholtz.cfm http://www.grapeaperacing.com/GrapeApeRacing/tech/intaketuned.cfm let me put that another way , you know those toll booths you go through on the turnpike? well the end one is usually about 2 feet wider and 8 ft taller for trucks right, well that air in the intake averages better than 350ft per second in the port thats 238mph, if you had to go through that toll booth at 238mph which bay would you think would be easier to drive through at 238 mph , the narrow one or the slightly wider one??

well Im sure someone will say , " the more lift and duration the better" but its not that simple, like everything else in an engine there are some compromises, first thing to consider is what the cam/engine will be used for, the flow rates of the cylinder heads,intake,carb,headers, car weight, gear ratios,ETC. your useing, next the rate of lift the lobe has, the type of cam , possiable clearance problems, ramp speeds, valve float rpm,duration,of the cam,rpm range it will be run in, rocker arm ratio used, lifter diameter,valve spring pressures,type of lifter, is a rev. kit used,engine displacement,ETC but as a general rule you first find the lift at which your head flow peaks and try to get the valve just above that lift for the longest possiable time that does not cause an excessive loss of torque in the lower rpm ranges you intend to operate in through loss of cylinder pressure from overlap caused by to great a duration or to tight of a spaceing in the LSA. look here,read http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/tech/camshaft/1.htm http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/tech/camshaft/2.htm http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/tech/camshaft/3.htm http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/tech/camshaft/4.htm http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/tech/camshaft/5.htm http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/tech/camshaft/6.htm http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/tech/camshaft/7.htm http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/firebird/Technical/tech/camshaft/8.htm http://www.racinghelp.com/picking_camshaft.html http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/axelg/cams.htm http://fly.hiwaay.net/~drickard/cam.htm http://www.wighat.com/fcr3/camtruth.htm http://tru-442.tripod.com/camselect.htm http://www.sdsefi.com/techmods.htm as a last option http://camadvice.com/ http://www.crowcams.com.au/html/camselect.htm

Z-Dreamer just buy this intake,CHECK WITH EDELBROCK TO MAKE SURE IT FITS YOUR HEADS FIRST OF COURSE(#2968 EDELBROCK) then send it to FRANK @ http://fuelinjectorclinic.com/ his main bussiness is converting intakes to fuel injection and adding bungs and fuel rails, he can also help with questions/other parts ETC. tell him GRUMPVETTE FROM CHEVYTALK.COM gave you his number! he will work with you!

I never said it was NOT A P.I.T.A. I said it could be built! 4.2" bore x 4" stroke = 443 cid displacement use this block http://www.worldcastings.com/newstuff4.shtml use these heads http://www.dartheads.com/sbpro230.htm talk to one of these people about a rotateing assembly http://www.callies.com/racemaster.htm http://www.theengineshop.com/ and this is a good cam,(get it ground on a STEEL BILLET small base circle blank for better clearance) but talk to them for more IDEAS http://www.compcams.com/information/search/CamDetails.asp?PartNumber=12-772-8

Im quite familiar with turbo boosted engines,I have built several. "He blew the turbo while he was driving it.....Grandpop, being the old drag racer that he is, had attempted to get me to do this beforehand to improve performance, and I had told him no. Apparently, he was trying to prove himself right. Well, it cost me a motor, and I can't exactly ask him to pay for it since he is, afterall, my grandpop." I understand your problem......but he should at least pay for the parts, afterall its highly unlikely the engine would have blown without his RIGGING IT

?????? why don,t you just hand grand dad a bill for the engine/turbo he destroyed by not checking the oil, if he had done that to avis or hertz do you think they would just eat the rebuild costs???????? ?????how much do you want for that (300-Z) (as is)???? If your going to rebuild that 300-z with the chevy engine swap, don,t waste time and money on a 305, sell the 305 add a few bucks and start with a 350 salvage yard 4" bore block, parts are cheaper, power is way better,and you can build a 383 that will make that 300-z kick butt!

the 400 can be bored and stroked to about 427-440 cid look here,and NOT ONE OF THESE ENGINES NEEDS TO SPIN OVER 7000rpm,BTW some of these guys are running over 1200hp http://www.theengineshop.com/engine5.shtml http://www.amerspeed.com/engine_prices.htm http://www.shafiroff.com/434_sportsengine.html http://www.lingenfelter.com/packages/427TT.htm http://www.golensengineservice.com/engineDetail.asp?engine=85 http://www.geocities.com/monty_williams/ http://www.skulte.com/turbo.html http://www.grapeaperacing.com/GrapeApeRacing/ http://www.turboclub.com/aturbo.htm

theres been alot of discussion about building high rpm engines lately, lets look at the pros and cons of running an engine over 7000rpm read the links then the comments please http://www.iao.com/howthing/improhtw.htm what they are saying is that the faster you spin an engine the less efficient the wet sump oiling system is and the greater the percentage of loss to friction from all sources , now remember this post, ever wonder why your engines torque curve gets higher with the engines rpm level untill about 4000rpm-5500rpm(DEPENDING ON YOUR COMBO) but fades above that rpm level? well it depends on several factors, first as long as the cylinders can fill completely you get a good fuel/air burn so you get a good cylinder pressure curve against the piston each time the cylinder fires,THE ENGINES TORQUE CURVE INCREASES WITH THE NUMBER OF EFFECTIVE POWER STROKES PER SECOND, at very low speeds theres not enough air velocity to mix the fuel correctly or produce a effective ram tuneing effect but as the rpms increase the cylinders fill very efficiently untill the rpms reach a point where the cylinders just don,t have the time necessary to flow enough air through the valves to fill the cylinders , remember a 5000rpm the intake valve out of 720 degs in each cycle opens for about 250degs of effective flow even with a hot roller cam, now thats only about 35% of the time and theres 41.6 intake strokes per second , thats only 1/60th of a second for air to flow into the cylinder, I found this graph that shows the relationship between V.E.(VOLUMETRIC EFFICIENCY) and AN ENGINEs torque CURVE http://www.n2performance.com/lectures/lect1/n2perf5.gif WHAT THAT GRAPH SHOWS RATHER EFFECTIVELY is that its your engines ability to fill the cylinders that increases your power and the more efficiently you do that the higher the rpm level you can acomplish that at the more power your engine makes, remember the formula for hp is (torque x rpm/ 5252=hp)so moveing the torque curve higher in the rpm range increases hp but look at the curve on the graph carefully.....after the peak torque is reached the efficiency of the cylinders filling drops off, and as rpms increase its a race between more power strokes per minute trying to raise the power and the increaseingly less effective percentage of cylinder filling dropping the power. Volumetric Efficiency The volumetric efficiency of a 4-stroke engine is the relationship between the quantity of intake air and the piston displacement. In other words, volumetric efficiency is the ratio between the charge that actually enters the cylinder and the amount that could enter under ideal conditions. Piston displacement is used since it is difficult to measure the amount of charge that would enter the cylinder under ideal conditions. An engine would have 100% volumetric efficiency if, at atmospheric pressure and normal temperature, an amount of air exactly equal to piston displacement could be drawn into the cylinder. This is not possible, except by supercharging, because the passages through which the air must flow offer a resistance, the force pushing the air into the cylinder is only atmospheric, and the air absorbs heat during the process. Therefore, volumetric efficiency is deter-mined by measuring (with an orifice or venturi type meter) the amount of air taken in by the engine, converting the amount to volume, and comparing this volume to the piston displacement. this increases untill the torque peak then falls as the rpms increase. engine red line piston speed is about at a reasonable max with stock components at 4000 feet per minute, now rpms alone do not have as great an effect as stoke x rpms in figureing piston speed. example 4000fpm(feet per min.) is 48000 inches per min. if your stroke is 3.48 like in a 350 chevy the piston must go up then down in each dirrection once for each rpm(revolution per min) so 3.48x2=6.96 so 48000/6.96=6896 rpm, in this case the valves are more likely to float before the rod bolts snap from inertial stress, but lets try a 383 that has a 3.75 inch stroke,3.75x2=7.5" so 48000/7.5=6400 rpm max for the rod bolts(about the same as the probable valve float rpm. btw long term highway cruiseing speeds should be kept to 2000fpm piston speeds for best engine life. http://www.melling.com/engoil.html what this is saying is that the faster you spin an engine the harder it is to maintain proper oil pressure and oil volume, thats why dry sump systems are normally used on engines that need to turn over 7000rpms on a regular basis. now air flow through the cylinder heads also peaks at about a lift equal to 1/3-1/2 the diamiter of the valve and at about 4000-6000rpm depending on the cylinder head flow numbers/engine stroke and displacement and cam timeing, so with all those factors working against spinning an engine to over 7000rpm its realy better to concentrate on building an engine that has a greater efficiency in the 4000rpm-6500rpm range as the parts necassary to run at the higher rpms will double or triple the costs involved while just increasing displacement of efficiency in the 4000rpm-6000rpm range will cost less and will result in an engine thats under less stress and lasts longer.