grumpyvette

oh yeah, its always a great WARM FUZZY feeling while you stand next to a smoking busted , and expensive to replace engine , and thinking damn! it held up fairly well till that last little bit, now I get to spend money I don,t have replacing something I never should have busted,,,,,geee was that FUN!................NOT!

http://www.nhra.com/apcm/templates/general.asp?articleid=2211 http://www.nhra.com/contacts/tech_faq.html don,t GUESS order the rule book and follow the instructions BTW this comes in handy http://www.metalgeek.com/static/cope.pcgi

STRESS is CUMULATIVE, you can run a 100hp shot almost forever, double the shot and youve significantly increase the stress and shortened the engines expected life, starting with an engine in good shape with little wear and the correct clearances adds a good deal to the probability that the engine will last a long time.Ive yet to see a correctly tunned 100hp shot hurt a decent engine but Ive seen guys who have run that 100hp shot get greedy, and kick it to 200 and several experianced blown head gaskets or busted pistons, what many guys fail to realise is as the power goes up so does the heat generated, STOCK RING GAPS don,t take this into account, STOCK RING GAPS tend to close,letting the rings butt, locking the piston in the bore and busting the upper ring land. cast pistons were never designed for the extra heat, that junkyard jewel test probably had well worn rings with large, perhaps excessive clearances for a N/A engine that allowed the engine to opperate under the higher heat (at least temporarily) Ive seen guys drop a 250 shot on stock engines and make a couple runs -to a few dozen before they had problems also, BUT they eventually DID break parts. 100hp is almost 100% safe, over 150 gets IFFY fast on a stock engine with stock clearances KEEP in mind the ease with which an engine on nitrous revs can get you into serious valve control issues also http://kb-silvolite.com/article.php?action=read&A_id=32 http://kb-silvolite.com/article.php?action=read&A_id=7 http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/nitrous-tech.htm you might want to read thru this also engines designed for nitrous use forged pistons, a thicker deck piston and larger ring gaps, theres a reason, and that reasons MORE HEAT and HIGHER PRESSURES

on most engines 75hp-100hp is no huge increase strain on the engine provided youve backed off the timing advance slightly and jetted the nitrous a bit on the rich side, but Id suggest you never set the nitrious to hit at under about 3000rpm either, and install and ignition rev limiter. Id further advise NOT useing nitrous if your not running a minimum of 15-20 psi OIL PRESSURE at hot stabile idle once the engine warm or your engines not running an ABSOLUTE MINIMUM of 50 PSI oil pressure at 5000 rpm, either probably indicates some wear and clearance issues you may not want to dump a good deal more bearing loads on. Id also suggest a baffled 7-8 qt oil pan and a high volume oil pump as oil does a good deal of the cooling on the engines critical parts like pistons,rings,bearings, and under nitrous the heat tends to go up fast take the time to read thru this http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/49752/

The CLOYES true roller style is vastly superior to the factory link belt design how come its 180 degs out of phase? I get this question all the time, well here’s something I see lots of guys don’t understand, ONCE YOUVE INSTALLED A CAM WITH THE TIMEING MARKS YOU MUST ROTATE THE CRANK 360 DEGRESS BEFORE DROPPING IN THE DISTRIBUTOR, while its true that if the, timing marks are positioned so the crank is at 12 o,clock and the cam gear is at 6 o,clock that the cam lobes will be in the position that fires #6 cylinder that HAS NO EFFECT AT ALL (on finding TDC,) for aligning the degree wheel with TDC,or THE timing tab pointer, for degreeing in the cam, the piston passes thru TDC TWICE in every firing cycle once on the firing/power stroke and once on the exhaust stroke, the cam rotates at exactly 1/2 the speed of the crank so to make it easy to line up the marks they install it with the marks at the closest point 6/12 for easy indexing, rotate the engine 360 degrees to the #1 TDC power stroke and the crank gear will still be at 12 oclock 12/12 but the cam will be at 12 o,clock also, rotate another 360 degrees and your back where you started. its simply easier to index the cam at the point where the index marks align closely. look at how the cam lobes themselves open the valves when the cam is just installed the #1 cylinder valves are slightly open and the #6 are closed per "Lunati" ‘’YES YOU ARE RIGHT - WHEN CRANK IS AT TWELVE AND CAM IS AT SIX THEN #6 CYL IS FIRING AFTER YOU LINE UP YOUR MARKS AND INSTALL GEAR THEN ROTATE YOUR CRANK ONE REVOLUTION AND THEN DROP THE DIST. IN - AT THAT POINT http://boxwrench.net/specs/chevy_sb.htm look here

Id doubt it will be the full 60 lbs heavier, I don,t have a shortend one handy at the moment to weight but most guys over estimate the weight

first Ill point out two factors here (1)that comp cams tech guys have been consistantly the LEAST KNOWLEDGABLE group Ive ever dealt with. In fact I refuse to bother dealing with them if I can avoid it, it just raises my blood pressure, if you call back chances are really good that youll get a differant suggestion, even if you get the same guy. (2)better cylinder heads with higher flow rates need a good deal less durration to fill the cylinders, don,t think youll need the same durration or get similar results with better heads, its a differant ball game once youve upgraded fron reworked stock heads to good aftermarket heads, especially if you consider most stock heads are about a 160cc-170cc size/ 200cfm-230cfm vs a 190cc-230cc / 255cfm-320cfm on the better aftermarket heads every choice in an engine combos a compromise and requires some ballancing in what your trying to achieve the 230/236 and 235/240 durration cams can make excellent power in your sbc, Ive seen well over 470hp on several occasions with roller cams in that durration range Im currently running this cam in my 383 http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=119661&lvl=2&prt=5 ID TRIED THIS CAM http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/cam_finder.php?part_num=00471&x=34&y=11 and found it was just a bit too much durration for street use, it made excellent power in my 383, but it was a p.i.t.a. IN TRAFFIC I CAN,T SEE THE 327 BEING SERIOUSLY UNDER CAMMED WITH THE 230/236 if you slightly over cam the car you may get slightly better peak hp but youll kill off a good deal of the mid and low rpm tq and drop the average hp NOW KEEP IN MIND A CAM IN THE 240-245 INTAKE DURRATION RANGE WILL MAKE MORE HP THAN EITHER OF THE SMALLER CAMS but its only at near peak rpms that its superior , and with a good wet nitrous system any of the cams can produce more power than your likely to be able to effectively put to the ground without slicks just a quick silly example, try sucking in a mouthful of soda thru a small dia straw then try doing the same thing with a much larger dia straw, the larger straw with its greater flow rate will allow you to get the same voluum transfered MUCH QUICKER, far less time results in a much more effective fill rate adding durration to the cam is adding time to fill the cylinders but it effectively reduces the amount of cylinder voluum compressed because the valves are closeing later in the compression stroke. its a compromise, your trading effective torque from clinder pressure/volluum for a greater number of less effective power strokes http://www.iskycams.com/ART/techinfo/ncrank1.pdf look at the cam timing and the true cylinder voluum compressed from the time the valves actually close

PERSONALLY,Id VASTLY PREFER the DANA 60 over the ford 9" as its significantly stronger, its a HUGE plus to save the cost also, GO with the DANA and never give a ford 9" a second thought. the fords easier to set the gears up in and lighter in weight but that extra weight in the DANAs all STEEL in the correct places to add significantly more durability & strength http://www.autohobbydigest.com/dana.html http://www.drivetrain.com/dana60.html or put a differant way, Ive busted up several 12 bolt chevys and a couple 9" fords but never hurt a dana 60

darn impressive car GUY! detail work is generally top notch

still a decent deal for a 210 with the extras http://cgi.ebay.com/Thermal-Arc-Fabricator-210-Mig-Welder_W0QQitemZ160013840298QQihZ006QQcategoryZ113743QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem new no extras sells for about $1200 BTW those LARGE mig wire rolls go for about $60-$70 each for mild steel wire, the full size shop argon TANK sells for about $200 and $40 to fill BTW when you DO start welding STAINLESS STEEL, GET THE CORRECT STAINLESS WIRE, it costs a good deal more but the resulting weld quality is worth it

now I usually buy gaskets in bulk packs, and mostly for GM and MOPAR engines because thats what I generally build and work on, and when you build and work on LOTS of cars you get a general idea as to prices, comon part numbers, and cures and causes of comon problems. I was assembling a 496 BBC for a friend and his valve cover gaskets need replacing on the valve covers he has, I checked stock and I was out! I was going to do some (HONEY DO!) stuff and I stopped by a local speed shop, I picked up a set of valve cover gaskets and walk over to the counter and ask the price.... without blinking he says $106 a pair, I looked at him and said...no not the VALVE COVERS.. JUST the gaskets! he repeated $106, ........I told him, well I can see why theres darn few customers and walked out look heres a sellection, most are under $25 all are UNDER $50 a set, am I the only one that thinks the guys insanely gready, and deals with jerks like this?? http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_434606_-1 http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_35268_-1 http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_879920_-1 http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM%2DG2311&autoview=sku http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=MOR%2D93040&autoview=sku

if its WORKS thats a more than decent price, just make sure you know the facts, the tanks not RENTED or OUT OF DATE on the tank shows (ITS NOT NEEDING TO BE RE-CERTIFIED..that can cost you an extra few dollars)and you test weld a few pieces BEFORE buying the combo http://reviews.ebay.com/Mig-Welders_W0QQugidZ10000000000014197 http://www.thermadyne.com/thermalarc/content/view/99/258/

"why does a killer displacement BBC need TWO 1150 dominators, won,t one feed the engines needs" EXAMPLE if youve never seen a tunnel ram yeah ONE will feed the engine but it may not make as much hp as TWO that are mounted on a correctly set up tunnel ram intake the vacuum readings and the port designs and the A/F mix/ratio control come into play read this http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/intake-tech-c.htm remember that when your running DUAL QUADS theres 8 venturies VS 4 on a single carb feeding the exact same engines needs ,so the vacuum is far lower and the carbs flow less at the lower vacuum, if the carb flows 1150cfm at 1.5" or 3" of mercury like its rated running two drops the vacuum in 1/2 so each carb now only flows at 813 cfm or LESS INTAKE PORTS are rated at 28" of water an intake port on an 8 cylinder v8 that flows about 225 cfm at 28,INCHES will support about 450 hp so thats not the same as 225x8=1800cfm needed in a carb,that feeds the ports, because theres no constant flow in the ports http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcdchg.htm the main reason they run dual quads is to have a venturi DIRECTLY over each intake runner so they can effectively tune the individual A/F.. RATIO IN EACH IF NECESSARY KEEP IN MIND THE ENGINE FLOWS AIR THRU THE RUNNER INTO THE CYLINDER ONLY DURRING A SMALL PERCENTAGE OF THE TIME lets say your engines got a huge 296 degree cam (measured at .006 lift), theres a 720 degree cycle, the 296 degrees is about 40% of the time so your limited to much less true flow than the rated flow thats taken at a stated flow rate taken at a steady flow state, now your EFFECTIVE PULSED flows down to about 600-400 cfm per carb, because of a trade off in reversion (REVERSE FLOW) when the valves close and shared bleed off too other cylinders needs when they open keep in mind a dirrect shot from a wide open venturie into the runner aimed dirrectly at the back of the intake valve is the prefered high rpm port config, vacuum readings of about 1" and air/fuel ratios of about 12.6:1 are prefered for max power at high rpms ,but its not necessarily ideal at low rpms at part throttle

they have a good reputation for quality of work with only rare complains which they tend to handle. the same applies to these guys http://www.ohiocrank.com/enginekits.html while you get what you pay for , I can,t see spending 10K-12K on a small block when the same 10K-12K in a BIG BLOCK would produce a larger stronger engine with more potential rather than a maxed out sbc. http://www.ultrastreet.net/poweradder/poweradder_long_bb.asp Id tend to slightly favor SHAFIROFF but ID sure go big block if spending 12K, parts are much more massive/strong and theres far more potential in the bbc look carefully Stage II BBC- $12,125 1250 HP RATED VS Stage III SBC- $15,875 1250 hp RATED even the 1500hp rated BBC is less Stage III - $14,975 its just easier for the larger engine thats under less stress and has bigger valves, ports ETC to handle 1250 hp

FIRION 13

Nice Impressive Job! Thanks For Posting The Details the more I look thru it the more impressed IVE become!! CONGRATS

YOU SELLECTIVELY QUOTED ME,TO GET YOUR POINT, IM NOT opposed to a correctly built forced induction combo.FAR FROM IT!,TURBOS and SUPERCHARGERS ARE GREAT IF THE BUDGET ALLOWS I stated this first in the same post' "remember nearly anything you can do to a 383-427 to make it run better will work even better on a 540-680 bbc s larger displacement, bigger ports and valves, example if TWIN TURBOS on a 383 works wonders, how much better will it work on a correctly built 605 displacement' BUT I do think you can get more hp per dollar on a semi limited budget building a larger N/A combo EXAMPLE http://www.dougherbert.com/dhp496chevybbstroker-p-25850.html?cPath=614_615 600hp/and tq for 7K is hard to beat OR 900hp/830 tq for 10K http://www.ohiocrank.com/enginekits.html

TECH SUPPORT LINES Holley Performance Products provides award-winning technical support via phone Monday through Friday, 8AM to 5PM CST @ 270 781-9741. Lunati technical support is availible by phone Monday through Friday 7AM to 5PM CST @ 662 892-1500. ERSON http://www.erson-cams.com/AskTechForm.aspx?BrandID=7 http://www.erson-cams.com/pdf/Chevrolet.pdf CROWER cams http://www.crower.com/misc/contact.shtml CRANE CAMS http://www.cranecams.com/ DART http://www.dartheads.com/ BRODIX http://www.brodix.com/ please call us at 479-394-1075 for technical support TRICKFLOW http://www.trickflow.com/emain.asp EDELBROCK If you need to speak with an Edelbrock technician by phone, please call 1-800-416-8628 from 7:00am to 5:00pm, Monday-Friday, PST. ENGLE CAMS http://www.englecams.com/index.php Tel: (310) 450-0806 Fax: (310) 452-3753 ISKY CAMS http://www.iskycams.com/ phone: 323.770.0930 fax: 310.515.5730 AIR FLOW RESEARCH http://www.airflowresearch.com/ 28611 W. Industry Drive Valencia, California, USA 91355 tel: 877-892-8844 fax:661-257-4462 DEMON CARBS (Barry Grant Incorporated) http://www.barrygrant.com/ Phone: (706) 864-8544 Fax: (706) 864-2206 ARIZONA SPEED/MARINE http://azspeed.stores.yahoo.net/c4col981.html MSD IGNITIONS http://www.msdignition.com/ TECH LINE: 915-855-7123 Shafiroff Race Engines http://www.ultrastreet.net/ Toll Free: 800.295.7142 • Phone: 631.218.7530 Ohio Crankshaft 5453 SR 49 S Greenville, OH 45331 Toll Free: 800-333-7113 Local: 937-548-7113 Fax: 937-548-4603 http://www.ohiocrank.com/enginekits.html http://www.kevko.net/ (KEVKO OIL PANS) 915 North Orient Street Fairmont, Minnesota 56031 (507) 238-9633 (800) 770-3557 STEFS OIL PANS http://www.stefs.com/stefsindex.htm Stef's Performance Products 693 Cross Street Lakewood, NJ. 08701 Phone ( 732 ) 367- 8700 fax: (732) 367-8793 MELLING OIL PUMPS http://www.melling.com/ Customer Service: 517-787-8172 ext: 125 MOROSO http://www.moroso.com/default.asp call 203-458-0542, 203-458-0546 MILODON http://www.milodon.com/index.asp Telephone Phone: (805) 577-5950 Fax: 805-577-7540 KB PISTONS http://www.kb-silvolite.com/index2.php 1-800-648-7970 ARP (BOLTS/STUDS) http://www.arp-bolts.com/ 800.826.3045 REED CAMS http://www.reedcams.com/ 770.474.6664 J&E PISTONS http://www.jepistons.com/ 714-898-9764 SCAT CRANKS http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/ 310 370 5501 Schneider Cams http://www.schneidercams.com/ (619) 297-0227 (TOOLS) http://www.goodson.com/ 800-533-8010 http://www.quartermasterusa.com/ 847-540-8999 hays clutches http://www.haysclutches.com/ 216.688.8300 A few of MY favorite parts sources http://www.survivalmotorsports.com/ 248) 438-6900 http://www.dougherbert.com/ 1-877-497-2787 http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/topcategory_10001_10002_-1 1800-345-4545 http://www.summitracing.com/ 1800-230-3030 http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com/ 1800-262-5033 AS EXAMPLEs ILL LIST SOME DECENT SOURCES OF WELDERS http://www.smithequipment.com/products.htm PHONE: (605) 882-3200 quality oxy-acetolene torches http://www.htpweld.com/ Phone: 1-800-USA-WELD (toll free) (847)357-0700 QUALITY WELDERS(nice 200 amp TIG) http://www.esabna.com/products/arc-w...HDQQodJR xJSg 1-800-ESAB-123 (1-800-372-2123) QUALITY WELDERS (nice 250-350 AMP TIGS) http://www.millerwelds.com/ Phone: 920-734-9821 QUALITY WELDERS (MIGS,TIGS, DARN NEAR EVERYTHING) http://www.mylincolnelectric.com/Cat...ecobrowse.aspx 216-481-8100 QUALITY WELDERS(MIGS,TIGS, DARN NEAR EVERYTHING)

"but as they say in hotrodding and breast surgery: "There's no replacement for displacement" while I see lots of potential in the ls series the displacement and head flows limited copmpared to the BBC ,ID also point out that you can now purchase complete aluminum block aquiped BBC engines up to about 572-605 steel blocks up to 704 cid displacement from several suppliers, and hp levels exceeding 800-1200 hp are comon depending on config in N/A builds, add nitrous or a turbo and 1500 plus hp is easy remember nearly anything you can do to a 383-427 to make it run better will work even better on a 540-680 bbc s larger displacement, bigger ports and valves, example if TWIN TURBOS on a 383 works wonders, how much better will it work on a correctly built 605 displacement http://www.ultrastreet.net/598_classic.asp http://www.brodix.com/blocks/blocks.html http://www.worldcastings.com/prods_p...ks/merlinx.htm http://www.donovanengineering.com/ http://www.keithblack.com/racing_generalmotors.html 427 is a good SMALL BLOCK by todays standards http://www.ultrastreet.net/598_classic.asp http://www.sonnysracing.com/ http://www.ultrastreet.net/632_1000_bd.asp IVE SEEN LOTS OF GUYS DUMP 8K-11K in a SBC engine with TURBOS, superchargers ,trick parts and not equal whats available like this 620 displacement BBC..even the 550 and 454 SBC exceed what many guys spent far more money to build http://www.ohiocrank.com/enginekits.html or http://www.dougherbert.com/dhp496chevybbstroker-p-25850.html?cPath=614_615

Other people have told me the same thing about them........(world products and Competition Products) both have a long list of less than impressed former customers I know of one engine shop that swears they recieved a block from world castings that was partly filled with concrete block stiffener in the water passages and when they wanted to return it were told it was useable and not returnable

qwik240z got any videos of complete full length runs where the car makes a full power 8 second run???

Very Clean And Impressive Engine Swap/car Congrats DAMN ! your making me JEALOUS, Im going to need to speed up my BBC engine swap project.

THIS RESPONCE IS NOT DIRRECTED AT ANY ONE PERSON, I get dozens of e-mails a month,about a vast verity of engine parts and potential, parts matches and problems, let me give you some hard learned advice,that took awhile to sink in,something I was forced to learn years ago, MACHINE SHOPS AND MANUFACTURERS LIE AND MAKE MISTAKES.... DON,T assume they or ANYONE ELSE is telling the truth on clearance issues, or PARTS or MATERIALS USED, UNTILL YOU VERIFY they are correct YOURSELF after checking EACH and EVERY spring and valve, rocker and valve guide ETC chances are good they are telling you the truth and youll probably be fine, BUT KNOW exactly WHAT your doing or ask for advice and measurements, NEVER ASSUME some part out of the box is correct and can be just bolted into place, NEARLY EVERY PART can use some minor to major pollishing, porting, or de-burring or at a minimum requires clearance verification (2) you tend to GET WHAT you PAY FOR[/color] if a set of heads or rockers ETC, is priced WELL BELOW AVERAGE theres A GOOD REASON, and its USUALLY NOT the SAME QUALITY[/b] but you sure won,t be the first guy to be told one thing and find something differant to be true after checking, take the time and effort to VERIFY clearances, spring rates and degree in the cam, and check clearances once its assembled. be sure you check clearances carefully, a mistake can and will damage the engine, DON,T GUESS,KNOW WHAT THE CLEARANCES ARE, ESPECIALLY SPRING BIND,VALVE TO PISTON,ROCKER TO ROCKER STUD, and retainer to valve guide clearances, CAM LOBE TO ROD, and anything or place thats suspected of being close I still use the strips of modeling clay about 1" square and .2" (two tenths thick) but one thing everyone forgot to mention so far is that you need to spray the piston and valve and clay strips with WD-40 to ensure the clay does not stick to any parts, otherwise the clay will tend to stick to the valve and piston allowing them to push the clay between them durring the compression of its surface by the valve (exactly what its there for) and PULL ON THE SURFACE of the clay as the valve moves away durring seperation (because the clay tends to stick ever so slightly as the parts pull away from each other if you don,t)which tends to give a false slightly greater than correct clearance measurement most people tend to tell me Im wrong about that untill they try it both ways yeah the differance is usually minor but five to 10 thousands differance is not rare if the parts are clean and dry versus sprayed with an oil mist , first check to make sure that you are measureing correctly, many times the valve actual has more clearance in the flycut clearance notches,or only the very edge of the valves head and the edge of the notch are close and very minor cutting with a tool fitted in a valve guide will clear the problem and the valve has more clearance than measurements taken from the pistons upper surfaces, and that the head gasket thickness and valve train geometry are correct, check if changing the cam retard/advance or installed possition can be changed to increase the clearance to 0.100 minimum on both the intake and exhaust valves (MOST LIKELY TO WORK WITH THE LEAST PROBLEMS) add a thicker head gasket? ( BUT THAT TENDS TO RUIN QUENCH AND DOES NOT TEND TO BE A GREAT CHOICE ON MOST ENGINES) look over the isky site they and MANY OTHER HOD ROD TOOL SUPPLY SHOPS SELL TOOLS THAT APPEAR TO BE EXTRA LONG STEM VALVES WITH CUTTERS ATTACHED TO FIX THAT PROBLEM http://www.iskycams.com/pdfcatalog/PAGE17.pdf heres a few things that should always be checked on an engine build heads are the pushrods perfectly strait? do the pushrods flow oil? rocker studs/guides torqued correctly? do the head bolts have washers under the bolt heads? are they the correct length for the cylinder heads in use? have the heads been pocket ported? combustion chambers unshrouded? intake ports gasket matched" are the valve guides cut to the correct length? are the heads pocket ported? is the retainer to valve guide clearance correct? are the valve guide oil seals installed? is there valve spring seats installed? inner damper springs installed? spring bind height checked? (to exceed max valve lift by .050 min.) oil return holes cleaned of casting flash? were steam holes in heads necessary? were the spark plug threads of a installed spark plug extending into the combustion chamber? rocker slot to rocker stud clearances ? retainer to valve guide clearances? spring bind height checked for the correct spring pressure? valve lash/preload ? are the valve springs the correct tension,height?dia. keeper the correct angle? style? size? valve seats the correct angles? valves back cut? valves the correct length, stemsthe correct diam. strait? rockers the correct ratio? were the valve to valve guide clearances checked? were the heads milled? did the head gasket overlap the bore? what are your valve train clearances? is the rocker arm geometry correct! chambers CC,ed port work..(some steps optional) (1) open throat to 85%-90% of valve size (2)cut a 4 angle seat with 45 degree angle .065-.075 wide where the valve seats and about .100 at 60 degrees below and a .030 wide 30 degree cut above and a 20 degree cut above that rolled and blended into the combustion chamber (3)blend the spark plug boss slightly and lay back the combustion chamber walls near the valves (4)narrow but dont shorten the valve guide (5) open and straiten and blend the upper two port corner edges along the port roof (6) gasket match to/with intake and raise the port roof slightly (7) back cut valves at 30 degrees (8) polish valve face and round outer edges slightly (9)polish combustion chamber surface and blend edges slightly (10) remove and smooth away all casting flash , keep the floor of the port slightly rough but the roof and walls smoothed but not polished. (11) use a head gasket to see the max you can open the combustion chamber walls (12) blend but don,t grind away the short side radias block is the oil pump pick-up mounted 3/8"-1/2" from the oil pan floor/ is the windage screen mounted about 1/8" from the rotateing assembly/ is the pick-up brazed to the pump body? has the oil pump relief piston in the oil pump been checked for free ,easy movement? clearance? spring tension? is the oil pump pick-up tube inserted too far into the oil pump body,(binding the gears) has the block been clearanced for the rotating assembly? has the block been aline honed? is the crank strait? are the damper install keyway and threads ok? counter weights clearanced? MAGNAFLUXED? OIL PASSAGES CLEANED? GALLERY PLUGS INSTALLED CORRECTLY? has the cam to rod bolt clearance been checked? piston to valve clearances checked? piston to bore clearances? TRUST BEARING CLEARANCE? what were the piston ring to slot clearances? RING GAPS? were the rings all checked individually for end gap in the cylinders they were used/installed in? were the rings checked to make sure the correct side faced up, and the correct ring was in each groove? what were the back clearance on the rings? were the oil ring expanders carefully fitted for correct drag? were the oil ring scraper ring rails checked for end gap? total cam lift and remaining clearanceS? WAS THE CAM DEGREED IN? main bearing clearances? what is the main bearing run-out clearance piston to head clearance? (QUENCH?) head gasket to coolent holes checked? magnets installed? rod bolt to block clearances? what tq reading is necessay to spin the crank with no rods attached? are the rod bolts and main caps torqued correctly? (rod bolts checked with a bolt stretch gauge?) did you check the block for a strait main cap alignment? what size journals and what were the bearings edge to filet clearance?? are the journals checked for finish and run-out/tapper? did you use moly lube to assemble? correct bearing crush? did you pre-lube before start-up? did the distributor gear fit the cam gear precisely? was the distributor oil flow mod done? was the correct style distributor gear used? did you check the piston to piston pin bores for fit and clearance? did the piston pins to snap ring clearance seem overly tight? if they are pressed pins were they correctly matched and checked for free movement in the pistons? was the engine ballanced? cam button installed?, and lock plate installed? were the rods resized? checked for parrallel bores/were the rods strait? piston valve clearance notchs correctly located on the pistons? edges smoothed? were the rods checked for length? is there a few thousands clearance on the oil pump drive shaft AFTER the distributors bolted down? did you install a steel collar on the oil pump drive shaft? was the rod to piston pin side clearance checked? (at 4 places seperated bye 90 degree spots) does the oil pump drive shaft mid section clear the block with the pump installed? whats the starter to flywheel gear clearance? is the pilot bearing to trans imput shaft clearance ok? is the front motor mount bolt to fuel pump pushrod clearance ok? did the fuel pump pushrod move easily/ are you possitive the pistons were installed with the correct valve relief in the correct location?(eiieeiie) were the pistons installed with the correct side facing forward/ what torque values were used on all fasteners/ were they the correct length and type bolts? were the bores honed with a torque plate in place? was the cylinder finish correct for the type rings used? was the oil pump itself checked for free spin and clearance AFTER THE PICK-UP WAS INSTALLED? was the cam drive checked for free rotation and drag/ were the oil passage plugs drilled for extra oil flow? were the lifter bores checked? cam to timing cover clearance? cam journal to cam bearing clearances? was the cam journal run-out checked? was the cam degreed in or just lined up useing factiory index marks? has the rod and windage screen to oilpan clearnce been checked? does the dipstick & tube clear the windage screen? was the cam lobes/LSA/LIFT CHECKED? is the deck square/level? whats the cross hatch hone angle? what grit hone was used? is it correct for the rings used? are all the threads clean/clear? brass freeze plugs installed? block painted? a few things to check are the connecting rods installed with the beveled edge facing out on each pair with the bearing installed with the bevel facing out on both the lower and upper rod bearings also? are you using beveled bearing shells that match the cranks throw bevels? what are the bearing clearances? (are they the same checking at 90.120.160 degrees from the first measurement?} what are the connecting rod side clearances? is the crank strait? has it been turned undersize? if so...on ALL the rods? on ALL the mains? or on ALL the BEARINGS JOURNALS OR ONLY SOME? whats the TRUST BEARING CLEARANCE? is the piston side clearance correct? are the pistons installed in the correct cylinders? (intake and exhaust notches correctly located to match the cylinder head) are you POSSITIVE each main cap is in the correct location and FACING THE CORRECT DIRRECTION? did you use MOLY assembly lube? did you check EACH INDIVIDUAL RING ON EACH PISTON for ring gap clearance,AND that the rings fit the piston ring slots correctly? are any rings installed in the wrong ring slots (2nd ring in top slot ETC,)or upside down do the rings have back clearance? were the cylinders CORRECTLY HONED? is the cam drive binding? does the crank contact the windage screen? does the dipstick tube or dip stick touch the crank at any point? is the oil pump /cam gear binding? did you check that the oil pump mounting bolt does NOT contact the back surface of the rear main BEARING under the main cap? is the block warped, checked carefully?,was it line honed? are the piston pins centered? do the pistons rotate thru an arc with little resistance? are there any lock pins, spirolocs, tru-arcs contacting the cylinder walls? are you sure the bearing shells are installed correctly and the locating tabs are in the correct slots? are they the correct bearings for the application? or did you just assume the part guy knew what he was doing? did you MEASURE or GUESS, did you at least use Plastigauge and a torqure wrench? did you check EACH AND EVERY journal for tapper and roundness did you get the rotateing assembly ballanced???

you look like youve got things reasonably well under control, please keep us up on your progress. the fuel pump should be fine provided the correct return style feul pressure regulator and fuel lines are run, Id suggest a 1/2" on both the feed and return lines if you can and a fuel cell rather than the stock lines and tank. BITS OF INFO HERE http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81648 " (3) "I was planning on running a 3 to 3 1/2 inch Y exhaust but if that wont be as efficient I will try and figure out how to change my current set up to allow for an X." the dual 3" should be fine on the exhaust, and the 3" to a (Y) too a 3.5" should also work reasonably well, in fact it MIGHT give a bit of extra mid rpm tq and I doubt it will hurt the upper rpms all that much as it will tend to keep the scavaging pulse strength higher/longer if its done correctly, keeping in mind exhaust flows in pulses not constant flow, and the exhaust voluum has cooled and gotten smaller further from the headers collectors, BTW the BETTER dual plane intakes usually out perform the single plane intakes untill about 6000rpm, and a hydrolic roller cam generally starts to fade by 6500rpm, the single plane intake I suggested works great with NITRIOUs due to distribution advantages with nitrous ,but Id stick with the dual plane on a N/A combo

while were talking about the valve train heres some related info 1.6:1 ratio rocker install IVE always prefered STEEL roller rockers over ALUMINUM for two reasons first STEEL has a MUCH GREATER fatigue life under repeat stress than aluminum, and steel generally has far fewer clearance issures with other components, plus some STEEL roller rockers are REBUILDABLE http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CCA%2D1302%2D16&autoview=sku http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CRN%2D11600%2D1&autoview=sku in MOST cases you can install 1.6:1 roller rockers with MINOR machine work, (I have seen on rare occasions no machine work necessary) but in any case its easily done, the tool comes with instuctions http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku and before a dozen guys start telling you they installed them with zero problems on stock heads, keep in mind most guys don,t take the time to check ALL the clearances thru THE FULL rotation of the rockers arc. and it they don,t break or bind parts ,THEY assume its fine but the truth is the pushrod should NEVER touch either end of the slot even lightly anywhere in the arc. more info http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/foru...ad.php?t=82474 btw the BEST aluminum rockers IVE ever used for GEN 1 SBC were ERSON BILLET ROLLER ROCKERS PART # E928069 1.6:1 ratio for 3/8" studs PART # E928072 1.6:1 ratio for 7/16" studs http://www.erson-cams.com/pdf/Chevrolet.pdf http://www.erson-cams.com/pdf/valvetrain.pdf http://www.erson-cams.com/AskTechForm.aspx?brandId=7 BTW I was asked HOW you prevent getting metalic crap into the engine when useing the LOUIS TOOL to increase pushrod slot clearance http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PRO%2D66485&N=700+115&autoview=sku Ive done several without removing the heads, but as stated earlier I removed the intake durring the cam install process and thats when you do the checks and minor clearance work, I placed one of these (HIGH STRENGTH, HIGH HEAT RATED MAGNETS ,POSTED BELOW)under each pushrod hole/slot while doing the drill work and they catch 99% of the crud instantly, then you just remove the magnets with the crud attached, ... BTW I usually leave a couple in the lifter gallery to collect broken valve train components and metalic dust anyway, before re-installing the intake high temp (300F) http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D66SH HIGHER TEMP (480F) http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=SMCO%2D62 I buy 50-100 at a time theres LOTS of uses