grumpyvette

holley sells some very good intakes for the conversion and if your careful a local salvage yard to you could supply many of the other parts,(CPU,wireing,sensors, injectors) fairly cheaply, but Id be surprized if you can get it up and running for under about 1K http://www.holley.com/9901-101-1.asp and yeah there are CONVERSION KITS at $1550 http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HLY%2D534%2D183&N=700+115&autoview=sku

ARE YOU 100% sure the disc(s) is/are not installed reversed get it installed facing the wrong dirrection and your screwed untill thats corrected

radiator housing trapped bye fan blades real bird or the reflection

http://www.ohiocrank.com/ http://www.lewisracingengines.com/ deal with these guys, Ive seen there work and its generally better than most shops, explain in exact detail what you want, thier prices are usually reasonable for what you get, and Ive not seen anyone who got screwed yet!

the large swivel casters come in two versions, LOCKABLE SWIVEL and free swivel, if you want temp locks they are available, I don,t see them on thier web site but they are in the next bin at the stores in my area, and cost only $4 more

the old small casters on those HF engine stands simply unbolt, I used (2) 7/16" thread 3" square U-bolts to lock each of the NEW LARGER swivel casters into place then WELDED the flange to the engine stand TOO,and left the (2) 7/16" thread 3" square U-bolts in place REMEMBER I may be UNDER that engine at some point and its best to be really sure the casters can,t come loose btw youll need to drill out the mount holes just a bit to use the (2) 7/16" thread 3" square U-bolts because the holes are neither totally round or big enought and they are off set about 1/16" in un-touched form the two outer leg casters mount about 1/4" in from the ends the two rear casters were mounted to have the u-bolts stradle and place the flange dirrectly under the junction of the main legs, the diagonal braces and the rear cross brace on both sides, then welded

(1) mostly engine building & HELPING OTHERS WITH THIER ENGINES (2)ELK HUNTING (3) RELOADING (4) LONG RANGE SHOOTING (5) ENGINE SWAPS (6) collecting tools for the shop

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=47304 Ive got 4 engine stands in the shop,as some may remember I replaced the crappy steel wheels last month wwith 8" casters similar to these http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=41563 I HAD TO MOVE A FEW ENGINES AROUND TODAY IN THE SHOP, I can,t begin to tell you guys how much I was pleased with those engine stands Id recently installed the 8" swivel casters on! Ive managed to convert all but one at this point to the 8" swivel caseters from the 2.5" metal rollers that were previously installed from the original manufacturer, and the differance in ease of movement is truely amazing!:thumbsup: If youve ever tried to move a BBC or HEMI on a standard engine stand you know that at 600-800lbs they don,t move easily, and the factory engine stands only have casters on one end and single dirrectional rollers on the other end making them a P.I.T.A. to move in some situations. I should have done that simply mod YEARS AGO:laughing:

yeah well worth the time, theres a few points refined in the discussion that many guys overlook

If I was going to buy the NY combo deal ID fly out or drive over and inspect everything FIRST and then if it was ok,if I didn,t have my personal truck,Id rent a small truck with room and drive it home. yeah it may cost more but your far less likely to get scammed, and when paying that much you can,t afford to get screwed

they can USUALLY be pressed back in, but pinning the studs, with a roll pin at an angle, is a good idea if your not going to be converting to screw in studs kits come with instructions http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_749537_-1_10693 keep in mind the reason most studs pull out is the result of a higher lift cam exerting more pressure on the springs so the eventually lever themselves loose, check your clearances VERY CAREFULLY studs working loose are a comon indicator of clearance issues, due to bad geometry or high lift rockers or spring bind issues ETC.

"Anyone have any idea how big of a cam these 993 heads would take? ' 3998993....72-current...307/350......75cc chambers http://kb-silvolite.com/calc.php?action=comp playing with your options shows that If the cylinder head gasket is a steel SHIM type,at about .015-.018 thick,this also puts the quench/squish at about the correct distance http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=FPP%2D1094&autoview=sku do the math,assuming flat top pistons the true static cpr is at about 9:1,that and the stock valve trains spring clearance that limits you to about a .475 lift will limited you to about a 35 degrees past bdc intake close point, and knowing from past builds that a 108 lca will be about the most effective at producing power... http://www.crower.com/misc/valve_timing_chart.html#108 we quickly find that that translated to a 222 durration at .050 lift on that 108 LCA. E110321 http://www.mr-gasket.com/pdf/Chevrolet.pdf now that we know your using a manual trans and the 3.3:1 rear gears, we find that the performer intake won,t be a bad choice,(the performer RPM would probably be a slight improvement) and youll want 1.5/8" long tube headers btw get a wider LCA,a larger durration or a thicker head gasket and youll rapidly loose effective cylinder compression and loose power as a result, remember choices will almost always involve compromises, and youll need to maintain a minimum cylinder pressure and airflow rate at the rpm ranges the engine operates in,to maximize the tq curve thats the WILDEST cam that will maintain both a reasonable cylinder pressure and maintain a semi decent low rpm tq curve, all the factors point to that particular cam as about the best match given the limited info you posted, and I would use it! your saving grace here is the manual trans and very light car with the 3.3 rear gear ratio, that will allow you to run more durration than a similar car like a nova or camaro that would be 500-900 lbs heavier

http://www.rustpuppy.org/chp/Welcome.html take the time too read thru this (read thru EACH of the 5 stages) AFTER reading thru, ask questions and Ill try to maximize your results on that meager budget, in the mean time Id suggest looking around for whats available in YOUR area in used intakes and carbs, and DO A COMPRESSION TEST & LEAK DOWN TEST on your engine,& verify the oil pressure and bearings condition,verify,the head casting numbers,post the cylinder PSI readings, verify your rear gear ratio, BUT DON,T BUY a darn thing untill we discuss it, because that current PERFORMER intake is probably a good choice,for a basically mildly reworked engine DON,T EVEN THINK ABOUT SPENDING A DIME untill you verify the basic engines compression and bearings etc are in good shape, then you can formulate a specific plan with a parts list, spending money rather than THINKING IT THRU FIRST might be more fun but its SURE to result in a less than IDEAL combo. heres a little secret....in order to have a fast fun car IT MUST CONTINUE TO RUN without breaking down, in order to win races you must FINISH RACES in GOOD running condition http://www.diyporting.com/Shrouding.html http://www.ruffstuff.com/ http://www.sa-motorsports.com/do-it-yourself.aspx theres a HUGE differance between grinding castings and doing constructive port improvements, but if you take the time to get a good grasp on the concepts its faily easy to make a few extra hp with minor port/bowl clean-up work

"Unless you give us a LOT more information, this thread is on its way to the shed as this question really has no definitive answer. With such vague specs such as cam specs being between 270-279 duration, (is that seat to seat, or at .050”? what about LSA?), 470-479 lift? Manifold is “an” Edelbrock dual plane, (which one? They make a couple types of dual plane and different variations of those types), we can’t offer forth but mere arbitrary guesses and/or broad vague power ranges" DITTO! Id bet the rear wheel chassis dyno results are not too far from the 270-290 hp range, with the very limited info you posted, BUT THATS ASSUMING A GOOD DEAL, like a basically stock short block, I DON,T KNOW TO BE TRUE , and only ASSUME (having seen lots of vaugely similar mild builds over the years)

HEADS (get the best you can afford, spend at least 1/3 of the build cost on heads & components on the heads) DISPLACEMENT (within logical mechanical and budget,limits, bigger is amost always better) CAM (must match the rpm range, gearing,displacement,compression, and take full advantage of head flow potential) COMPRESSION RATIO get it built on the higher edge of the range your octane rating will allow, in both the static and dynamic compression ratio POWER TO WEIGHT LIGHTER IN weight is USUALLY BETTER FLOW RATES (try to get everything in the engine too match, the engines designed rpm,displacement and power range) ROTATING ASSEMBLY (spend a 1/3 here, and take the time to think it thru and get the clearances and lube system correctly built)

without decent AFTERMARKET heads or seriously ported LT4 heads and a cam that takes full potential of the head flow your beating a dead horse http://www.malcams.com/legacy/misc/headflow.htm http://www.h-body.org/people/projects/building_lt1/lt1%20info.html http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/tech/engines_drivetrain/cams_heads_valvetrain/0612ch_lt1_engine_build/photo_15.html http://www.customclassictrucks.com/techarticles/0602cct_lt1_engine_history_build/specifications.html http://www.ideasandsolutions.biz/HooverSB/top.html http://www.ideasandsolutions.biz/HooverSB/top.html http://airflowresearch.com/227sbc_lt4.php

post the rest of your combo, displacement, cam,intake, cpr,etc. including the trans used, rear gear ratio and stall speed if its a auto trans we can assist you in sellecting a decent head to match the combo....IF you don,t have a clue, read thru these as a guide http://www.rustpuppy.org/chp/Welcome.html http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article031/A-P1.htm http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/148_0306_chevrolet_406_big_block_torque/index.html http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos1.html http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/131229/ http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article085/A-P1.htm http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/142298/ a great deal of your engines power potential lies in the volume of airflow you can pass thru the cylinders EFFICIENTLY,and the pressure curve above the piston that results from burning that mix in as controlled manor, and the rpm range at which it can be done effectively think about this a cam does nothing much but control the timing and lift of the valve in the ports, a valve is basically a door to the cylinder and an intake is basically the hall way to that door, it doesn,t matter all that much if the hall way is just slightly or much bigger than the door and if the door opens 3/4 or 7/8the of the way if the door and enterance way immediately infront of that door, (the cylinder head port and valve) is so small its restricting the flow into the cylinder even if its fully opened intake port and intake runner flow should match or slightly exceed the heads max port flow and cross sectional area at the MAX POTENTIAL VALVE LIFT having an intake that can flow 270cfm and heads that flow less than 200cfm is far from ideal, and no matter how high/long the valves open it won,t significantly increase the cylinder volumetric efficiency before you find the dropping effective compression ratio is becoming a restriction as the durration increases, and that as the rpms increase the head flow restriction becomes a critical barrier to filling the cylinders http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/runnertorquecalc.html http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/intake-tech.htm http://www.dw1977.cz28.com/photo2.html http://home.earthlink.net/~hennad/results.html here’s a chart FROM THE BOOK,HOW TO BUILD BIG-INCH CHEVY SMALL BLOCKS with some common cross sectional port sizes (measured at the smallest part of the ports) ...........................sq inches........port cc edelbrock performer rpm ....1.43.............170 vortec......................1.66.............170 tfs195......................1.93.............195 afr 180.....................1.93.............180 afr 195.....................1.98.............195 afr 210.....................2.05.............210 dart pro 200................2.06.............200 dart pro 215................2.14.............215 brodix track 1 .............2.30.............221 dart pro 1 230..............2.40.............230 edelbrock 23 high port .....2.53.............238 edelbrock 18 deg............2.71.............266 tfs 18 deg..................2.80.............250 Potential HP based on Airflow (Hot Rod, Jun '99, p74): Airflow at 28" of water x 0.257 x number of cylinders = potential HP or required airflow based on HP: HP / 0.257 / cylinders = required airflow http://www.tmossporting.com/tabid/1805/Default.aspx theres only about a 3% increase in CROSS SECTIONAL AREA between the two differant heads , even without a supercharger its not a huge change in low rpm tq or responsiveness,in fact its generally almost not noticable as its about a 200 rpm shift in the tq curve,and a supercharger easily more than compensates, infact its easily able to increase the volume significantly even at low rpms ITS A COMON MISCONCEPTION, ITS NOT the port area at the enterance , you need to use in the calcs, ITS the MINIMAL port cross section at the SMALLEST point in the port, usually near the pushrod area. LIKE a funnel, its not the largest part of the opening but the smallest thats the restriction to flow use these to measure then keep in mind that normal ports flow under negative pressure while a supercharger produces at least minimal possitive flow at low rpms

"geezer, grumpy, pop, anyone ever notice the guys with the really old sounding user names hang around the v8 forum? somethin to that maybe... lol" AS YOU get OLDER YOU generally learn to quit beating your head against stone walls and stop beating dead horses (WISDOM OF SORTS) and look around before starting a project to find out both what works and what mistakes others have made, so you can avoid them, rather than duplicating them, large displacement V8s with the proper components spinning at reasonable rpm levels make for both huge power and low maintinance.......... EXAMPLE it usually takes alot less work/ less total expence,to install a killer 383-427 sbc to make 500 hp plus than it takes to build a killer 283-355 to make similar power levels

i read thru the thread and link, the first question I had was "WHY BOTHER" think about it, the aftermarket LS1 blocks for the chevy are stronger, than the ford, easier to work with, have all parts readily available with far less fabrication, have a 6 bolt main cap and potentially more displacement. theres no point in building the mix/match combo as theres only increased costs, no benefits, other than having an odd ball combo besides the LS1 has a 4.4" bore center the ford has a 4.38 bore center, the outer two ford pistons on neach bank won,t be centered as well and thier might be shouding problems

the standard vortecs are significantly better heads,than many cast iron heads like the early fuelies,but theres TWO destinctly differant port sizes in vortec heads, the standard 173cc and the newer 206cc , the larger ports support ALOT MORE HP, THE LARGE PORT VORTEC HEAD VERSION, can easily support 550-600 hp while the standard vortecs max out in stock config at nearer too 430-450hp http://www.sdparts.com/product/25534431/SBChevroletCompleteLargePortVortecBowTieCylinderHead.aspx Large-Port Vortec Cylinder Head Flow after mild mods, the stock large port heads are limited to a .530 lift, unless modified but easily raise the max potential rpm range by several thousand rpm INTAKE EXHAUST Lift Volume Lift Volume 0.200 128.6 0.200 100.8 0.300 188.4 0.300 138.6 0.400 234.8 0.400 154.4 0.500 257.2 0.500 152.5 0.600 263.2 0.600 163.8 0.700 269.1 0.700 167.0 standard stock smaqll port vortecs max at about 230cfm, but cost less, the cylinder head flow will restrict power and rpm levels to some extent, as they are designed for low and mid rpm tq. http://www.sdparts.com/product/12558060/CastIronL31VortecSBChevroletCylinderHeadsAssembled.aspx both types of vortecs can be modified with better springs and machined to work with better/higher lifts be aware youll need self aligning rockers and center bolt valve covers and a vortec specific intake http://www.sdparts.com/product/SD8060A2/VortecSBChevroletCylinderHeadwValveSpringUpgrade.aspx naturally if your going to be installing better/longer/larger valves ,pushrod guides, better valve seals,and doing some port/bowl work and adding better springs, like beehives and titanium retainers, too get a head that will work with .650- lifts you buy bare heads and save some expences since youll discard the stock valves and springs, retainers etc. anyway http://www.sdparts.com/product/25534371/SBChevroletBareLargePortVortecBowTieCylinderHead.aspx http://www.2quicknovas.com/vortecheads.html http://www.kendrick-auto.com/vortec_cs_gm_head.htm

I think that can be summed up as YOU NEED TOO, MAXIMIZE THE CYLINDERS VOLUMETRIC EFFICIENCY, FOR THE DISPLACEMENT,RPM RANGE & COMPRESSION RATIO and realize that factors like the stroke and valve curtain area effects the compromizes that need to be made in sellecting components the basics in performance limits are related to how fast you can effectively fill and burn a full or nearly full cylinder of fuel air mix and at what rpm band you can maintain BOTH that fully filled cylinders pressure curve effectively producing thrust on the piston, and the cylinder scavaging/and filling. at some point the time available just starts to become so short that the cylinder can,t effectively be fully recharged, remember at 1000rpm the cylinder fills and fires 8.3 times a second, at 7000rpm, thats 58 times a second and its hard to get a fully charged cylinder in that time frame with some component choices

the BEST shotgun I own is this one http://www.benelliusa.com/firearms/sbe2.tpl my s 90 gets used more http://world.guns.ru/shotgun/sh02-e.htm both work FLAWLESSLY IF you WANT to shoot 3.5" shells get something DESIGNED to maximize the 10 ga 3.5" shell, the 12 GA 3.5" shell is just not as effective, its a patch fix to a problem that doesn,t exist, the 10 ga is designed to throw 2 oz or more of shot the 12 ga was not THE ITHACA MAG 10 its bigger heavier and handles the recoil better, Ive got one and while its only used for deer hunts with slugs currently its a HAMMER with 2 oz slugs or 21 OO buck

runner LENGTH and CROSS SECTION plus PLENUM VOLUME (if there is a plenum)effects the intake harmonics and how effectively you can ram tune the intake runner charge to fill the cylinders, and don,t forget exhaust scavaging , compression ratio and cam timing, and valve curtain area,and drive train gearing must match the intended combos effective operational power band http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/intake-tech.htm http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/runnertorquecalc.html http://www.bgsoflex.com/intakeln.html http://www.engr.colostate.edu/~allan/fluids/page7/PipeLength/pipe.html

ABOUT 30 YEARS AGO I was cutting & dicing up a big bunch of HABANARO peppers for chilli and had the oils all over my hands , I was sweating and not thinking rubbed my eyes, I spent the next 30 minutes with the shower running cold water in my eyes with in seconds of that dumb move, I thought Id been blinded, but it was more like tear gas, or at least non-permenant thankfully but I never want to repeat that stupid move. luckly once you cook the peppers and add the other ingrediants they don,t burn nearly as badly as the concentrated pure juices do, but a dozen or less in a couple gallons of chilli will raise beads of sweat on your forehead btw want some good chilli 3 lbs chop meat(hamburger) 1 lb finely diced cheap stew meat (diced cheap beef) 4-10 habanaros finely diced (start low the first time) 1/2 lb bacon finely diced two large spanish onions finely diced 1 cup molasass 1 pack chilli spices two cups tomato paste two diced tomatos 1 large can spaghetti sauce 1/4 cup brown sugar 1/4 table spoon black pepper 1/4 table spoon red pepper two large cans chilli beans one large cam B&M baked beans add a couple cups of water and simmer & stir frequently on low heat (barely boiling temp)for several hours untill totally cooked, serve as topping on your favorite cooked rice or PASTA I generally freeze several 1 gallon zip lock bags full and save them for later thats why I make a good deal at one time, makes for a quick dinner , cook pasta and microwave the chilli and you have dinner in 15 minutes

read this, BUT keep in mind it does little good to have killer head flow numbers if the intake manifold flows less or if the exhaust is restricting flow, and heads that flow killer numbers at .700 lift, and are designed to feed a 427 displacement at 7500rpm, DON,T do you much good if the CAM you sellected has a .520 lift AND ONLY SPIN THE ENGINE TO 6000RPM, obviously each choice you make in components effects the results http://www.tmossporting.com/tabid/1805/Default.aspx BTW. ITS A COMON MISCONCEPTION,THAT YOU MEASURE PORT CROSS SECTION AT THE PORT ENTERANCE,BUT ITS NOT the port area at the enterance , you need to use in the calcs, ITS the MINIMAL port cross section at the SMALLEST point in the port, usually near the pushrod area. LIKE a funnel, its not the largest part of the opening but the smallest thats the restriction to flow SO HOW do you MEASURE THEN?? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=5649 http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2D900014&N=700+115&autoview=sku USE THIS http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/runnertorquecalc.html http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tablehdc.htm http://www.malcams.com/legacy/misc/headflow.htm here’s a chart FROM THE BOOK,HOW TO BUILD BIG-INCH CHEVY SMALL BLOCKS with some common cross sectional port sizes (measured at the smallest part of the ports) ...........................sq inches........port cc edelbrock performer rpm ....1.43.............170 vortec......................1.66.............170 tfs195......................1.93.............195 afr 180.....................1.93.............180 afr 195.....................1.98.............195 afr 210.....................2.05.............210 dart pro 200................2.06.............200 dart pro 215................2.14.............215 brodix track 1 .............2.30.............221 dart pro 1 230..............2.40.............230 edelbrock 23 high port .....2.53.............238 edelbrock 18 deg............2.71.............266 tfs 18 deg..................2.80.............250 Potential HP based on Airflow (Hot Rod, Jun '99, p74): Airflow at 28" of water x 0.257 x number of cylinders = potential HP or required airflow based on HP: HP / 0.257 / cylinders = required airflow