grumpyvette

IF your looking for shelving for your garage, most of the cheap flimsy crap you see at the local home depot,lowes etc is junk designed for home storage NOT heavy auto parts and would be VERY dangerous if used for that application "I would recommend checking with some used industrial supply or equipment dealers in your area. " I purchased (12) 8' long 24" deep 6' tall shelves from COSTCO rated at 2000 lbs per shelf for $150 each, but found out later I could have purchased USED industrial shelves for about 60% of the cost that were even heavier duty they had advertizing in the local bargin trader magazines if your going to throw heavy stuff like transmissions on a shelf Id STRONGLY suggest you get shelfs that are rated for an absolute MINIMUM of 1500 lbs PER SHELF and 2000-2400 lbs is far better,and an 18" minimum and 24" max depth, you need room to safely slide the parts back onto the surface remember they assume the loads equally spread which ITS NOT GOING TO BE! a 400 lb trans or short block sitting in the center of a shelf is easily equal to 2000 lbs equally spread over the total surface area BTW you can help spread the effective load by placing 3/4" plywood shelf surfaces on the racks as its usually far sturdier than the wire mesh or partical board shelfs supplied you can further increase the resistance to flexing with a 2"X4" lip or brace screwed into the shelf along the front and rear lower edge surface of the 3/4" plywood remember you need CLEARANCE for larger parts and on a 6 ft tall shelf that usually mean a MAXIMUM of 4 shelfs , with 3 shelfs being far more usefull due to clearance and access issues, one just above the floor, one at the top potential placement and the remaining one or two shelfs spaced for max clearance, remember the heavier stuff MUST go on the lower two shelfs if your not looking for a potential accident later, and leave room for the engine crane boom and hook you can,t place a engine on a shelf thats got just enought clearance for the part alone you need room for the engine crane boom and hook to clear as well

thats a good question for this forum,and ILL point out a few factors Ok Ive got one and have tested several of them. http://www.3barracing.com/product_3.htm http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/rsrgauge.htm http://www.scirocco.org/tech/misc/afgauge/af.html http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lm1.php http://thedynoshop.net/prod01.htm heres my take on them, short answer, they are a big help but a P.I.T.A. to set up and use if your not going to semi permenantly install them on your car. IVE come to use reading spark plug condition, http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80783 http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=85537&highlight=plugs use of a good timing light and vacuum gauge , fuel pressure gauge and use of a GOOD HIGH TEMP INFARED THERMOMETER (THIS ONE) http://www.professionalequipment.com/extech-high-temperature-infrared-laser-thermometer-501-ds-42545/infrared-thermometer/ as a very quick to use and accurate set of tools. :thumbsup: OK WHY??? well your main concern when tuning an engine is to keep the all the cylinders running aproximately the same ratio and at about 12.8:1 for max power up to about 14.7:1 for low emmissions and good mileage, so whats the advantage/disadvantages a fuel air meter uses a o2 sensor, if you place it in the header collector it gives an AVERAGE of all the cylinders on that cylinder head,If theres an (X) installed close to the dual collectors reversion pulses can occasionally even give data from the other side of the engine, so in theory and in practice you can have two cylinders run lean and two rich and the AVERAGE tends to look RICH to the O2 sensor as it SEES unburnt fuel, if you place it in the individual primary header tubes you either need eight O2 sensors (VERY EXPENSIVE, and keeping the wires from burning or grounding outs a TOTAL P.I.T.A......IF you don,t succeed you destroy the O2 sensor and need to replace it.) or you need to be constantly swapping very hot and fragile O2 sensors and bung plugs constantly, but with the IR thermometer you can almost instantly see which cylinders are running hotter or cooler and adjust the jets or look for vacuum leaks, or other CAUSED for the TEMP DIFFERANCE, ETC, far faster too get all the cylinders running at approximately the same temp, indicating the same fuel air ratio, youll be amazed at how close the temp follows the fuel/air ratio, and you can confirm it with plug condition and the other test equipment. run any cylinder too lean and detonation can break rings or melt pistons, run it too rich and you can wash the oil off the cylinder walls and ruin rings/scuff pistons, you need to know whats going on in EACH CYLINDER not the AVERAGE of all cylinders. SO, if your going to install a decent wide band fuel air ratio meter on your car thats fine, its going to be an asset to your tunning skills, if you install the indicator/gauge inside the car and weld in a couple extra bungs in the collectors for tunning and wide band O2 sensors which are a big help, but you will quickly find that its a P.I.T.A. to use it for tune ups on all your buddies cars with the welding collector bungs and installing plugs and O2 sensors while the IR thermometer route is fast and very simple and you can confirm with oplug reading the condition of the engine. YEAH! theres meters that you can stick in a tail pipe, but they read THE AVERAGE, not the individual cylinders , think about AVERAGEs AS my old physics proffesor once said, IF, I pour molten lead in your front slacks pockets and pack your butt in solid with DRY ICE,.... ON AVERAGE your comfortable:D

look at the links and info I posted in this thread http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=54543

depending on the year and series of the model of the block,theres a few blocks with a port drilled in the block over the oil filter and or one over the timing chain cover on some blocks and there are oil cooler or remote oil filter adapter plates, any decent machineshop can drill and tap into the oil passages at several points and install a 1/8" pipe thread port, or you can use an adapter that mounts between the oil filter and block, that have access ports, but a remote mount oil filter, adapter plate that re routes the oil flow and a remote mounting plate for the sensor and dual filters is the most comon way to do what your trying to accomplish http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?Ntk=KeywordSearch&DDS=1&Ntt=oil+filter+adapter&searchinresults=false&N=700+115&y=14&x=34

""welders tend to create HEAT, sparks and falling bits of red hot metalic crud that makes sandels, short sleeve shirts and shorts a very dumb idea in most cases." some designs are worse than others,my MIGS are less likely than my ARC and TIG to give radiation burns but EVERY ELECTRIC welder can cause problems if you don,t wear the correct clothing, safety gear YEAH! I CAN HEAR IT NOW......SEVERAL GUYS ARE SAYING....Have you been peeking in my shop?" BTW getting back to the subject at hand ...SAFETY YEAH EVEN I GET DUMB AT TIMES:laughing: theres a good chance of getting radiation burns from any electric welding process if you don,t wear the correct protective clothing, gloves, face shield ,long sleeve shirts and long slacks an boots don,t think your not damaging your exposed skin if you don,t get burns in the first few minutes, the damage is cumulative, and the distance, reflective surfaces and AMP settings plus the type of weld process effect the potential rates of radiation exposure, but wearing a tee shirt under a long sleeve COTTON shirt, denim jeans, high top shoes/boots socks a face sheild and a set of leather gloves is a good start. Ill rat my self out here, The first time I tested my new 330 amp tig, I sat a couple sections of aluminum pipe on the garage floor , on a couple milk crates and sat on my mechanics roller chair, I was wearing a set of shorts and sandels and no socks, I had the self darkening helmet but no gloves ,I figured I was only going to weld one bead as a test, so whats the harm, well BEING DUMB IS OBVIOUS LATER, I welded for about 10-15 minutes, and made sure the TIG WELDER worked correctly, and that night I had a very obvious V shape sun burn on my neck where the shirt was open and both lower legs were burned and blistering from radiation burn damage like Id spent many hours in the sun, my lower legs were about 12-18" from that welders torch, I knew better but got rushed/stupid I usually weld in a long sleeve deniem shirt and slacks, engineer boots ,gloves and a leather welders apron and a face shield and cap, and don,t have problems, but like always if you get stupid you better be tought sometimes you just need a refresher course in what not to do to remember why you need to think things thru before just jumping into something no! but I was YOUNG and DUMB at one time (40 years ago) and HAVING LEARNED THE HARD WAY.... like most guys, DO! I still remember doing that DUMB STUFF, and suffering the results. the TRICK is I still TRY TOO remember and try to AVOID repeating my former mistakes, and hopefully preventing others from making similar mistakes

thanks ILL post it in my data for future contacts

" I would have screamed like a little girl and ran from the garage." THANKS I NEEDED THAT LAUGH, the picture in my mind was funny as %^&* " This happened a couple more times after 10 min of 180 Amp welding. Turns out my "connector" relay was sticking and was worn (moderate/heavy hobbyist use)" WHAT MODEL AND BRAND??

this might give you some insights http://www.progressiveautomotive.com/motor.htm 318/340/360 Chrysler motors...................... MM-318.......$209.00/pr. http://www.tdperformance.com/pdfs/34-universal-Swapmounts.pdf http://www.fixthisride.com/productsbycategory.jsp?cat_id=106111103111 http://www.streetrodderweb.com/tech/0305sr_chevy_six_cylinder_swaps/photo_02.html http://www.tdperformance.com/TransDapt.html http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_Volvo700-MotorMount.html if you were closer ID say bring both the car and ENGINE over and we could fabricate some, but as Ive stated several times you can use cardboard patterns , make up a set to bolt on and test clearances, bolt access etc. out of 3/8" PLEXIGLASS and GLUE/SOLVENT,to use to weld the parts, too mock up a set and then drop them off at any decent machine shop for duplicating in STEEL hang the engine exactly where you want it from the engine crane and get the angle correct with a floor jack, center it in the engine bay and verify the distributor, suspension, exhaust clearances,ETC. fab up, drill and bolt a small plexi plate to the block , place a plate on the frame or old engine mount, then fab up the connector. have the result made from steel at the local machine shop

I don,t thing the "MR gasket group" is related to the "HOLLEY group "of companies

take the time and effort to read thru the links if your interested in knowning a bit more about bearings http://www.thirskauto.net/BearingPics.html http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/ar20128.htm http://www.babcox.com/editorial/cm/cm99828.htm http://www.thirskauto.net/Engine_Thrust_Bearings.html http://www.aptfast.com/Flyer_HowTo_Dir/HowTo_Folder/Cam_Bearing_Install/Install_Cambearings.htm http://www.babcox.com/editorial/us/us90126.htm http://www.circletrack.com/tipstricks/4636_crankshaft_rod_bearing_installation_tips/index.html http://www.stockcarracing.com/techarticles/scrp_0509_coated_bearings/index.html http://www.engineparts.com/motorhead/techstuff/brgclear.html http://www.engineparts.com/motorhead/techstuff/bearingfailures.htm http://www.engineparts.com/motorhead/techstuff/clrcode.html http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/ar10180.htm http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tech/0711phr_bearing_clearance_control/index.html http://www.tpub.com/content/engine/14076/css/14076_73.htm http://mahleclevite.com/techbulletins/CL77-1-205R.pdf http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/tech/engines_drivetrain/cams_heads_valvetrain/0707ch_main_bearing_clearance/index.html

anyone know whats up with ERSON?? http://www.mr-gasket.com/ I went to order one and thier web sites not listed or linked to the old link and thier not listed as part of the MR GASKET GROUP???

http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=90024 http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=93010 http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81648 theres BITS of info you might want here, in each thread

the screw up that had you aquire the 305 may actually be a semi blessing in a weird way ,by the time you finish the total project the cost of upgrading from that 305 to a 350 or even a cheaper version of a 383 in the car, the cost differance between them will be reasonably minor. I seldom build even 350s any longer as the cost differance to build a 383 vs a 350 is almost meaningless but the extra 45-50 hp/tq the larger displacement gives you is almost free as it comes from the displacement increase and the ease of getting a bit more compression with less piston dome height, over a similar 350. PLUS a 383 operates about 400rpm lower so its easier on the valve control issues. If I was bucks down (and TRUST ME I USUALLY AM...BEING RETIRED AND ON A PENSION) Id do the least work I could do too the 305 sbc and get the car drivable and depenable so you have transportation and can work out the other bugs in the swap process with the smaller engine , like the exhaust, trans,mounts,cooling,oil pan,etc. and get the car up,functional, dependable first. install a better radiator, get the trans and shifter correctly adjusted, work on getting a decent baffled oil pan, a free flow low restriction exhaust, a high flow aluminum water pump, etc. just don,t put much money into the heads,cam,short block ETC,then at the same time Id be keeping an eye out for the parts Id need to assemble a 383 or 396 SBC so that at some point I could spend an afternoon swapping out the 305 and in that serious performance engine while KNOWING almost all the potential problems have long since been worked thru.......think of the 305 as a test mule that only in thier to work thru the bugs and don,t put much money or effort into that long block assembly, but take the time and effort to build the replacement 383-396 SBC too far better standards ,than you could ever do swapping a few components at a time onto a running street car. do the necessary research, build the dream engine slowly and correctly rather than throwing parts at a car that you need for transportation. ID keep the 3.90 rear and the EFI and get good at tunning that, Id spend a good deal of time researching the parts list for the ENGINE COMBO Id need to assemble a 383 or 396 SBC and in the long run the test mule 305 will be a reasonable and cost effective step too your having a killer car thats dependable

IF you read all the info posted and use the basic combo I listed YOULL need to determine YOUR skills level, tools and work area, before starting but it appears giving the parts list to a decent local builder and having him assemble the parts might be the best route for you to follow, the problem will be that most engine shops will want to substitute cheaper and inferior parts to cut THIER costs, USE THIER parts and raise THIER PROFITS the results won,t be the same, unless you stick to the list IF some kind computer skilled soul will post the desk top dyno or engine analyzer results youll see why I suggested that combo.

maybe one of the computer savy guys can post a desktop dyno curve from engine dyno software results on that combo, but it will produce more power than your likely to be able to use even before you hit the giggle gas

want a PARTS LIST for a DECENT COMBO, just have the heads sellected have about 10.7:1 cpr heads http://www.airflowresearch.com/210sbc_rh.php intake http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=HLY%2D300%2D110&autoview=sku cam http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CRN%2D110921&autoview=sku short block http://www.competitionproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=SBTP383F lifters http://www.competitionproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=651080DL rockers http://www.competitionproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=1106-8 carb http://www.competitionproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=1563010 nitrous kit http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=NOS%2D02101NOS&N=700+400047+115&autoview=sku use full length 1 3/4" headers and a full 3" exhaust with an (X) use a manual trans and a 4.11:1 rear gear with a 30 LB steel flywheel, a decent CLUTCH use a 7-8 qt baffled oil pan and moroso windage screen

you want a fun combo that can be built on a reasonabe budget? this should get you started http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=90682 http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=83410 http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=93686 http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=91464 http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=87305 http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81799 http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=94275 http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80380 http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=90950

my first reaction after reading that was......I wonder IF I can get some of those pills hes taking???? but lets assume your serious , the 700 rear wheel hp sbc engines going to cost you easily 9K plus, and thats going to require about 860 fly wheel hp,and it will probably use a turbo or nitrous, the matching drivetrain , suspension, brakes and mandatory roll cage could easily exceed that cost , I seriously doubt you could assemble a SAFE and reasonably stable combo for UNDER 18K so if your willing to factor that into your budget we can proceed,with a semi realistic descusion on parts and component sellection, if thats totally out of the budget your goals need to be more realisticly match your budget, and ID point out that it won,t be a really street driveable car in that its unlikely to be ideal for longer trips, and a BIG BLOCK CHEVY BASED ENGINE will probably be far more cost effective http://www.ohiocrank.com/enginekits.html http://www.ultrastreet.net/engines.asp

jt1 gave you good info .038 quench is almost ideal having a performance piston extend a couple thousanths out of the bore is COMON

http://www.ramairbox.com/ http://www.ramairbox.com/bases.html these guys sell a wide sellection and many are FIBERGLASS that allows you to MODIFY them and REPAIR them fairly easily with FIBERGLASS mat and GELL or ALUMINUM which can easily be cut and tig welded or even epoxied back into a usefull functioning unit to match your exact application

heres some tools to help http://www.metalgeek.com/static/cope.pcgi http://pipemastertools.com/store/page1.html http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=1028 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=94694 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=34214

"Any thoughts?" ID check the oil pan rails are not bent/warped and if you need to use some black silicone sealant, but Ive never yet had that be necessary, most leaks are the result of EITHER the gasket not being seated correctly or over tightening the bolts bending oil pan. you might want to Use with P/N 12553058 RH and P/N 12553059 LH oil pan reinforcement plates to distribute the bolt stress on the oil pan rail for 1985 and earlier oil pans P/N 14088501 (LH) and P/N 14088502 (RH).1986 and newer

looks like very nice work, excellent spark plug clearance ETC., do you have pictures of the header collectors and under car clearances?

http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=89586 might help

Grumpy, what should you torque the bolts to and in what pattern? this should help, (I generally snug the bolts up on the oil pan by feel and don,t over tighten them, and I generally use a small 1/4" drive ratchet to do so, not a tq wrench, (I think its 14-15 ft lbs or 165-170 inch lbs if you want to get technical) Im sure theres a specification, your supposed to use but Ive seldom had any problems just snugging them up by the feel with a short 1/4" drive ratchet.) I generaly tighten in stages and constanly circle the pattern, I think the main problem occure when guys OVER TIGHTEN and crush the gaskets, snug but not tight works, if the gaskets being squished out noticably between the block and pan lip, your more than likely over tightening the bolts, heres where experiance comes into play, if your not sure use a inch rated tq wrench at 170 inch lbs http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81323 http://www.small-block-chevy.com/assemblyspec.html