grumpyvette

the EA PRO program allows you to enter just about every factor you can think of, in fact its so detailed it takes some time to look up and enter the data , but it does produce fairly accurate results and promps you when you screw up choices. the KEITH DARTON intake is one of the very best available, I generally use them in prefferance too the edelbrock vic or dart or brodix as its generally a better value in my opinion BTW a HOLLEY or DEMON 800-850 cfm makes a good match, but to take advantage of the intake flow charactieristics youll need a cam in the 245-up durration at .050 lift a 11:1 or higher cpr and stall and rear gear ratio to match you might want to keep in mind the heads,flow rates and exhaust restriction levels and tunning must also match or the intake flow won,t reach nearly its full potential Id generall be thinking about a 383-427 displacement, 11:1-12.5:1 cpr,solid lifters, heads that flow over 270 cfm peak,4.56 rear gears and keeping the engine rpm range above 4500rpm and below 7000rpm durring 90% of the race

"Interesting that it says going to a single plane wouldn't hurt my tq. curve it would also raise my peak tq. by 20 and give me 40 hp." software simulations are only as good as the data paramiters used, and its RARE for a single plane to best a good dual plane intake below about 5500rpm, in tq or hp so keep that in mind! your looking to increase the AVERAGE hp/tq more than the PEAK hp/tq if you want a fast car! Ive seen a 20hp gain in PEAK hp on a 496 BBC resulting from a single plane intake swap from a good dual plane intake slow the cars 1/4 mile times over two tenths of a second, your gearing, suspension, traction,power to weight ratio and AVERAGE RPM band has a huge effect on the TOTAL performance. the only way youll know if the software guess is correct is TESTING the parts on YOUR particular combo,in the real world BTW this software http://www.auto-ware.com/software/eap/eap.htm is a P.I.T.A. to use but its is usually far closer to correct, and when you make a bad choice in components it points out the flaws and suggests where you can improve the combo

WANT A GOOD LAUGH AT MY EXPENCE! :rotfls: Im the master chief/cook in my house, today Im making CHILLI , to make a short story even shorter, Im useing the cutting board and dicing up a half dozen HALBANERO PEPPERS , when the urge to visit the facilities , becomes urgent, now without thinking too hard (remember IM OLD)I stop what Im doing , and head over too the bathroom,and durring the process of standing at the facilities I touch some sensitive male anatomy, with the same hand I was dicing the peppers with, THE wife comes RUNNING when I YELL "DAMN IT! YOU ARE ONE DUMB S.O.B." because she knows the tone of voice usually proceeds a trip to the emergency room and stitches....shes almost in tears LAUGHING when she finds me in the shower running cold water and soap over tender parts of the male anatomy and I explain what happened......kind of like placing a lighted oxy-acetolene torch in your lap, pointed at your crotch and the results seem similar for a few minutes... Id advise avoiding the experiance, and washing your hands VERY carefully BEFORE touching ANYTHING after cutting a half dozen HABANAROS........the really sad part is I know better! I rubbed my eyes after cutting up those HALBANARO peppers 30 years ago, I won,t do THAT again EITHER http://www.thescarms.com/hotstuff/pepperfacts.htm

Ive had my valve spring compressor for over 35 years and its similar in appearance, I have no IDEA what brand it is, I simply posted the picture to give some idea as too the tool used I nprobably got it from these guys http://www.goodson.com/

http://www.compcams.com/Camquest/default.asp comp cams is now offering a free cam sellection software,THIS IS A USEFUL TOOL, this is useful in seeing the lift/duration/LCA they suggest for your application, in most cases they get fairly close so its a tool thats useful, now you don,t necessarily need to buy a COMP CAM but a cam with a similar lift/duration/LCA from your favorite manufacturer probably should be fairly close to whats recommended willing to spend a few bucks ,want far more detailed results and a program requireing FAR more detailed input?? http://www.auto-ware.com/software/eap/eap.htm

step 1 BUY AND READ THRU THESE 5 books, BEFORE you buy a single part, it will save you thousands of dollars and weeks of work, if you don,t have an excellent grasp of all the basic concepts youll make expensive mistakes http://www.themotorbookstore.com/resmchstvi.html JOHN LINGENFELTER on modifying small-block chevy engines http://www.amazon.com/John-Lingenfelter-Modifying-Chevy-Engines/dp/155788238X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1196720184&sr=8-1 HOW TO BUILD MAX PERFORMANCE CHEVY SMALL BLOCKS ON A BUDGET by DAVID VIZARD http://www.amazon.com/Build-Performance-Blocks-Budget-Design/dp/1884089348/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1196720274&sr=1-1 SMOKEY YUNICK,S POWER SECRETS http://www.amazon.com/Smokey-Yunicks-Power-Secrets-Yunick/dp/0931472067/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1196720390&sr=1-1 http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/1557880298/ref=pd_bxgy_img_2/102-1234339-0571324?v=glance&s=books btw http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/131229/

NEW/HEADS, you should NOT just bolt them on! now Ill probably tick some guys off here, but I see enought heads come thru the shop to point out a comon problem, and its NOT limited to one or a couple manufacturers, Ive seen it on nearly every brand and type of cylinder head!, what Im refering to is bits of casting flash, bits of aluminum or cast iron chips from machine work or sloppy assembly, burred threads, threads that are not cleanly cut,ETC. on new out of the box cylinder heads, I won,t name brands BUT some of the top names have bits of aluminum chips/dust/crud left in the ports in as shipped heads and disassembly and use of a stiff tooth brush, high pressure air and carb cleaner spray along with reassembly with the proper lubricants and running a tap thru threads and cleaning all machined surfaces with solvent,is almost mandatory if your don,t want bits of crud washing around in the engine durring first starting the engine. it sure doesn,t hurt to check the spring bind and other clearances, and that the valve seals are correctly installed either IM sure the manufacturers used a high pressure air hose to blow out the ports and water passages, but theres comonly some crud remaining so inspect carefully, and clean those new heads BEFORE installing them , yes the cheaper brands seem more prone to this problem but even the best brands are comonly seen to be recieved in less than steller condition, and need some basic clean-up BTW, one of these tools comes in handy durring the inspection process http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=WMR%2DW89409&autoview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=EDL%2D77619&N=700+115&autoview=sku http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/mc/heads/chevrolet_sb_victor_jr.shtml a good deal of engine building is in knowing WHICH heads to sellect

WHILE THERES NO DOUBT you can get very good results from dart HEADS, ...I DON,T LIKE thier casting quality or machine work on SOME, but not all of the dart heads Ive worked with, there seems to be a good deal of variation on DART heads, and I find that to be a problem, as Ive had both excellent results and heads that looked like a third world machinist worked on them

Ive carried a GLOCK #20 10mm for years as my personal defence pistol, its been both dependable and accurate and its never needed more that routine maintince like occasional clean/oiling http://www.gunblast.com/Glock20.htm youve got to ask yourself when sellecting a carry pistol, "can I absolutely 100% depend on this pistol to fire accurately, never jam, and have the power to put some scumbag down with one good hit" if the answers not, that your 100% sure... "your carring the WRONG PISTOL!" theres no (DO OVERS) in a GUN FIGHT, CHANCES ARE, you EITHER WIN or you DIE, so carry a tool that will put the odds in your favor! and TAKE THE TIME TO PRACTICE FREQUENTLY

afr brodix trickflow edelbrock thats basically what id suggest

http://www.boatstoreonline.com/procomp.html

cute!

iF youve ever checked OUT those 12 ton jack stands closely youll soon see that those are a HUGE EXCEPTION to the normal CRAPPY HF stuff, probably because STEEL, and HEAVY CASTINGS are fairly cheap to produce and the TECHNOLOGY is VERY OLD and EASY TO PRODUCE in CHINA at a VERY reasonable cost which do you think is a better deal, (4) 8 ton jack stands for $800 with only 3 heights http://www.asedeals.com/jack_stands.html or (4) 12 ton jack stands for under $140 68LBS FOR TWO (thats a good bit of steel) with about 8 height choices and a far stronger locking mechanisum http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=34924

http://www.chapmanenterprise.com/products.html these are made to YOUR specs if you want them custom keep in mind if youve got a spare weekend and some scrap steel, and a welder, ........or a few hundred dollars worth of alluminum or steel and a decent welder , you can build a fantastic set of heavy duty ramps welders may seem expensive, but they rapidly pay for themselfs, yeah! I know, you don,t have the cash, well I didn,t either, but I sold some engine parts and did odd repairs and put a part of the cost on plastic, Ive easily saved far more than the welders cost over the years in repairs and building custom parts ETC. at times you can sit down, design something and price out the steel or aluminum and find you can easily save 50%-70% on projects

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=34924 the 12 ton are the way to go , they are far sturdier, and less likely to tip, on the lowest notch they are about the correct height to work under the car and the base measurements are significantly wider and harder to tip over you may not need the weight rateing but it won,t hurt a thing to have an extra margin of safety all the 2,3,5,6 ton jack stands Ive seen in the last 35 years are shodily made or significantly smaller and easy to tip, and you don,t want to be bench pressing a car suddenly when one of those P.O.S. tips or fails while your under it BTW,the 12 ton jacks give the clearance for an extra mechanics pad and a mechanics creeper http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...8274_200198274 they do make a 6 ton version, and its far better than your average auto parts store crappy 3 ton stands a 3 ton next to a couple 12 ton http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=38847 then of course,if your interested in up grading? http://www.chapmanenterprise.com/jack_rabbit.html http://www.discountramps.com/mini-sports-car-lift-ramps.jpg http://kwiklift.com/features-all.htm read this thread http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=84398&highlight=concrete

look thru this http://auto.howstuffworks.com/clutch.htm your local area is sure to have a decent clutch shop that can sell you a nice heavy duty clutch and pressure plate assembly at a reasonable price, especially if you know exactly what to ask for, get friendly with the guys, youll be seeing them more than once standard diaphram replacement clutch Diaphragm pressure plates work well for street/strip applications, featuring maximum clamp load with minimum pedal effort, but have a bad habit of sticking to the floor in the cheaper designs if shifted at high rpms GM Diphragm Pressure Plates If you need a clutch for your everyday driver, this is the clutch for you. RAM clutch sets are the first choice of professional installers because each set contains the correct, top quality replacement parts to ensure proper fit and operation in your vehicle. Every RAM premium clutch set is backed by our five year/50,000 mile limited warranty. http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product2_10001_10002_752681_-1 borg and beck style This type of clutch will increase the pedal effort in order to achieve the extra holding power, and may require strengthening of your clutch linkage components for proper operation. Roller, or centrifugal assist models are available for non-shifting applications such as clutchless transmissions, or where shifting is done below 6000 RPM. long style The Long Style is the preferred pressure plate for true competition clutch systems. These units provide a combination of static and centrifugal pressure. This characteristic allows setting up the clutch to suit the car and track conditions. Static pressure is provided by coil springs and remains constant throughout the RPM range of the motor. Additional pressure is provided by centrifugal force acting on the levers which impart this force to the pressure ring of the clutch. Centrifugal pressure is RPM sensitive, meaning the force increases as the engine RPM increases. Long Style clutches are available with fixed static and centrifugal pressure or with adjustable pressures to allow precise clutch tuning. Long Style clutches feature explosion resistant pressure rings, chrome vanadium springs for long life without loss of pressure, welded spring guide cups in a heavy duty cover, and all new heavy duty hardware. RAM can build Long Style clutches in any pressure range and with or without counterweight levers for non-shifting applications such as Lenco or other clutchless transmissions. Ive generally sellected one of the two lower designs in a 3000lb-3600 lb design for a serious BBC, and had them custom assembled by a good local shop once your over about 600 ft lbs of torque you may want a dual disk design BTW the upper clutch of the four in the thread above is easy to push in,smooth and quiet, but not nearly as strong as the lower designs,( its stock) the lower clutches are noticable harder to depress, and can be noisy because theres moveable weights and they tend too grab hard and faster , making the clutch engagement harsher but they tend too hold noticably better also:thumbsup:

general rule for N/A engines is ring gaps should be between, .0040--.0045 per inch of bore dia. example a 4" bore like a 350 x .004--.0045 = .016-.018 ring gap heres a chart and links to tools for referance http://kb-silvolite.com/article.php?action=read&A_id=32 http://www.hanzenginehouse.com/HANZENGINEHOUSE/pages/Checking_ringgap.html http://www.muller.net/sonny/crx/rings/index.html http://www.tavia.com/cat16.html#2 http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_74772_-1 http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_748219_-1_10693 http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_55122_-1 http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_747501_-1_10693 http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_841806_-1

a motown 454 small block would NOT be my first choice, as I hear less than good reviews from customers on quality frequently these guys have a better track record http://www.ohiocrank.com/enginekits.html http://www.shafiroff.com/shortblocks/406_shortblock.asp

while that car looks like it could be alot of fun, and obviously its an engineering challange and a neat swap, I gotta ask why one would go to the effort and expence and still be driving a car that looked like that......now Im NOT anti -non detroit cars, but theres so many better looking cars out there to modify before you start any swap youve got to step back and say to yourself......."will you be proud to drive the results,will you look back on the effort and be proud you built it and put the time,money, and effort into the project to get that to drive?" example I could install a 1200hp engine in this and ID still be embarassed to drive it http://a248.e.akamai.net/7/248/1229/v134/imageonthefly.autodatadirect.com/images/?IMG=80SCGEB1.jpg&WIDTH=640

get a a couple pet ferrets, most ferrets gleefully kill every mouse and rat they see, if you don,t like that Idea glue traps work reasonably well, I don,t use poison, they run off and die in walls and other hard to find places and stink up the place horriably. another effective trap can be made from a 5 gallon pail, put 12-16" of water mixed with dish soap in the pail,(the tablespoon of DAWN in the water,we use, makes it harder for them to stay afloat) (about 1/3rd full) run a 1/4" steel rod across the center in two holes drilled about 1/2" below the rim and glue a thin 1" wide strip of thin metal like a slat from the blinds to most of the width of the dia. so it freely swivels, place peanut butter in the center and lean a 1" X 2" board at an angle to the rim from the floor, the mice run up the board, try to reach the peanut butter and slip off and drown we did that in several garages and its not uncomon to find several dead rats or mice in one a day

http://chasinracin.net/track-locator/states/

Id strongly suspect that ignition timing would need to be retarded if you were mixing fuels, but TESTING with your combo will tell for sure. OCTANE BOOSTERS like below can reduce the tendency to detonate, but your cat/emmission/ system and O2 sensors may not like a lead additive http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/misc/octanebooster.html http://www.prime-mover.com/Engines/GArticles/octane.html http://www.elektro.com/~audi/audi/toluene.html http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/detonation/detonation.html http://www.kemcooil.com/products.php?cId=4 http://www.kemcooil.com/product_info.php?pId=54

you would be AMAZED at what a 496-572 BBC built with 13.7:1 cpr and a decent matching cam , a 4.88 rear gear and slicks would do for that feeling / sensation of TORQUE http://skunk.net/boats/boatengines-496.htm

BTW HOW TO CHEAT A LITTLE and get an idea where you stand..while tunning http://www.professionalequipment.com/extech-high-temperature-infrared-laser-thermometer-501-ds-42545/infrared-thermometer/ this is not fool proof but a quality IR temp gun will give a good indication of getting into trouble ,IF you know how to use it, exhaust temps should be in the 1200F-1350F range with nitrous anything over about 1500F probably is a good indication your running wat too lean or getting into detonation, I usually play with the ignition timing curve and advance first, but after making reasonably sure thats close, you richen the A/F mix ratio to drop temps in the exhaust, your far less likely to have problems if you keep the exhaust temp range in the 1200-1350F range and the lower edge of the temp range may limit your power very slightly but it will tend to keep you out of trouble also, keep in mind A/F ratios close to about 12:1-12.5:1 generally maximize the torque, but try for about 12:1 or slightly richer, you really can,t afford to run lean for long, a couple of seconds can melt a piston land. having an IR gun allows you to quickly check EACH exhaust header and locate cylinders that run lean or non-firing plugs