grumpyvette

like I said, engine start fluid and a cig lighter torches the little sobs just as effectively as you could ever wish for!

try driving a 10 second corvette on the street.......I HAD BETTER POLICE ESCORTS THAN THE PRESIDENT ....AND HAD EQUIPMENT CHECKS ALMOST DAILY COURTESY OF ROAD SIDE INSPECTIONS ,never got a ticket but I needed to drive VERY CAREFULLY, the guy living behind me at my old house was a total #$%^^& that was a police captain, who HATED street racing and was convinced I somehow was the source of all speed infractions in the state, simply because of all the hot/fast cars in the old shop after awhile a few of the cops became much friendlier and on a first name basis, treat them nice act friendly and some of them will treat you decent, but youll always run into @#$%^&*& on occasion, BTW It all got better after I started doing repairs at dirt cheap prices for the cops personal cars, one of which eventually was the neighbors boss

IDEALLY theres ZERO MEASURABLE voltage! and with both a decent frame to engine ground and battery to frame ground theres seldom much voltage in the coolant, but having a transmission to frame ground in addition is a good idea as Ive seen that help also, a loose ground causes lots of flaky/intermitent problems Determining the levels of EME present in the cooling system is very easy. All you really need is an ultrasensitive voltmeter. Simply remove the radiator cap, stick the positive probe into the cooling system, and ground the negative probe to the radiator. With the metal dialed down to the lowest voltage setting, take a reading of the total amount of electrical volts present in the cooling system. The reading should be somewhere BELOW 0.01 volts, if its not you NEED to find out where the grounds loose or an extra grounds needed and add an anode

IM sure theres several guys on the site that can add a great deal to this thread and I welcome thier input here as transmissions are not my strong suit! in fact ID love all the info I can find on making a 4L80E full manual control as Ive got a new 4L80E I purchased from the local chevy dealer at a discount,for my BBC corvette engine swap project, and ID vastly prefer full manual control over an electronic control I need to program to get the trans to work, both due to the cost (about $1000 for the controller) and the better actually control on the car, If the driver controls the shifts

eventually if your running a car with significantly higher than stock horsepower your going to find the STOCK transmission giving you problems, its not a maTter of if...ITS when! HEAT AND TORQUE LEVELS ARE THE MAIN FACTORS that destroy a transmission so don,t fall for the total bull $hit of advertizing on hp levels the transmission has a torque level that the parts can stand long term, a th350,700r4, 4l60E,200r4 are all rated at 350 ft lbs in stock form, all can be improved but NONE will have the strength of a properly rebuilt 4L80E or TH400 theres just much more massive parts in the heavier duty transmissions , so before you rebuild your current trans think thru the goals. example the formula for hp is torque x rpm /divided by 5252=horspower so 350 ft lbs at 4000rpm =266hp 350 ft lbs at 6000rpm=400hp 500 ft lbs at 4000rpm=380hp trust me the 380 hp combo will twist a 700r4 to scrap well before the 400hp combo will heres some books and videos http://www.700r4l60e.com/howto.html'>http://www.700r4l60e.com/howto.html http://www.4speeds.com/video.html http://www.technicalvideos.com/books/transmission.phtml http://www.technicalvideos.com/videos/transmission.phtml http://www.how-to-videos.info/Transmission.html http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=15594&itemType=PRODUCT&RS=1&keyword=transmission%2Crebuild%2Cdvd http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=15596&itemType=PRODUCT&RS=1&keyword=transmission%2Crebuild%2Cdvd http://www.amazon.com/Modify-Hydra-Matic-Transmission-Motorbooks-Workshop/dp/0879382678/ref=pd_bbs_sr_3/103-3486570-0918205?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1189776655&sr=8-3 http://www.amazon.com/MotorBooks-Do-Yourself-Book-Transmission/dp/B000OZ58E4/ref=sr_1_8/103-3486570-0918205?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1189776655&sr=8-8 some rebuilders and part suppliers http://www.bulkpart.com/ http://www.drivetrain.com/4l80e.html'>http://www.drivetrain.com/4l80e.html http://www.drivetrain.com/ http://www.drivetrain.com/autotransoverhaulkits.html#Need%20Help%20or%20have%20Technical%20Ques http://www.drivetrain.com/saginaw3_4sp.html http://www.autogear.net/muncieproducts.htm http://www.nastyz28.com/chevy-transmission-identification.php http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=SFNT&Store_Code=2 http://www.tciauto.com/Products/TechInfo/converter_dims.asp http://www.tciauto.com/Products/TechInfo/trans_dims.asp http://www.700r4l60e.com/ http://www.richmondgear.com/cat/rod.html http://www.transmissioncenter.net/

looks LIKE fun, but Ill bet rats are more fun and satisfiying simply because you get to see something hit vs splatered you can come over here when your bored , we have a few spiders in fla. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/BODY_IN017 http://search.myway.com/search/AJmain.jhtml?qid=9506FAFF533C6001A7F8B1B581123172&pg=AJmain&ord=21&action=click&searchfor=Banana+Spider+Florida&tpr=jrel3&p=AJmain&st=kwd&ptnrS=DE&ct=RR&cb=DE personally I use the engine starter fluid and cigarette lighter approach to flamethrower the little #$%^%^&*.....can,t stand having them crawl around in the garage

Im always glad to help out nice guys with projects, but I doubt the wife wants borders, and shes already said I can,t get a mistress so moving in for either sex seems doubtful.

I hope everyones ok, but GOOD LUCK getting access to the wreck and pulling components! most insurance companys are a total P.I.T.A. about letting you get parts off wrecks

updated picture of the old guy at one of your requests, to see what the old geezer looks like back yard view btw if you think your garage is a mess....don,t worry they DO EVENTUALLY clean up........this is a picture from a year ago taken on the first day when we first got power with everything just STUFFED in the garage untill we can sort it out and put it away, my son took the picture from scaffolding as he was installing light fixtures, theres a good 25 feet still behind him thats why the garage appears shorter than it is really, and yes Im darn proud of a dream thats slowly come true, of having my dream shop, Ill post more picturtes once its complete, theres phones, computers and more fans,, welders, extensive shelving, work benches and lights still to install at that point, most but not all is in a year plus later

I got asked if anodes are a good idea? well, when you run an aluminum performance cylinder head on an iron engine block with pure copper head gaskets,like Ive been for many years, those anodes are mandatory, and yes they do work, and prevent or at least slow electrolysis a great deal naturally youll need to use the anodes in the block vs the radiator with a plastic radiator like some cars have http://www.ve-labs.com/productpdfs/Product%20Sheet%20RadCap%20Revised.pdf http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/anode.html http://www.bmcno.org/RadCap.htm http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Search?catalogId=10101&storeId=10101&sku=anode&searchbtn.x=16&searchbtn.y=12

Im looking for someone to build several HP components (I have both a working example and specs) of a few high performance EFI components, and suspension components, Ive developed, naturally Id want to keep the rights and info excluesive to a single trusted source of supply. but Im sure for the right person or shop it can be a mutually beneficial deal

so! Im assuming,swapping to differant head gaskets DID significantly lower the operating temps???

sounds and looks impressive! CONGRATS ON A SUCESSFUL SWAP!

as Im sure your aware the best torque will usually be with a ratio of about 12.5:1-13:1 and the most fuel efficient ratio will be closer to 14.7-15:1 carbs react to CHANGES in air flow rates, to change the fuel feed rates so theres always a delayed reaction, EFI generally uses sensors to detect BOTH changes in AIR/FUEL RATIOS in the exhaust and changes in vacuum and airflow rates carbs generally cover up sudden increases in air flow such as stomping on the throttle to WOT from idle with a long shot of fuel from the accellerator pump and power valves adding extra fuel, neither one is a precisely metered responce. you can tell a good deal about the conditions in an engine if you know the vacuum readings (use a gauge), and know how to read spark plugs now I use a vacuum gauge a timing light, and an IR temp gun on the headers along with the data from reading the plugs and the a/f ratio sensors, each adds to the indications of whats going on, yes you can acchieve a 14.:1 ratio and get the engine to run decently, but in most cases it will tend to run better in the low 13:1 ratio range durring transitions and about 14:1-14.7:1 durring cruising simply because theres always a tendency to go lean durring sudden transitions with most carbs. Id keep in mind that going rich durring rapid transitions is prefered over going lean and getting the a/f ratio stable and predictable at cruise and idle and durring mild accelleration like on the freeway,where youll spend 90% PLUS of your time is far more important than temp swings durring throttle changes, or durring WOT where running slightly richer, durring high load high rpm conditions is prefered simply because it makes better power and has less tendency to run into detonation, especially since youll spend far less time under those conditions BTW (lots of links and sub links on carb tuning, spark plug reading, etc.) if you do some searching on the hybridz site, but heres a bunch http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=77602 BTW use a 190F T-stat and an extra electric fan that comes on at 200F to keep the engine coolant temp stable, try to keep the oil temp in the 215F-220F range if you can,to burn off moisture that can form acids over time in the oil, and the fuel pressure stabile at about 5 PSI,, have no more than 1-1.5 psi of back pressure in the exhaust at WOT, it makes tunning far easier, make sure the ignition timing curve is smooth & consistant, and do a leak/down test and adjust the valves, do a vacuum leak test, check the oil pressure,and fuel filter, to make sure your not working with mechanical problems. if your tunning an n/a engine and the IR gun shows header temps over 1250F or under about 1100f once its up to temp, youll generally find vacuum leaks, ignition curve problems or a/f ratio problems

no one makes them ,that I know of currently but thats hardly a problem they DO work, but your unlikely to notice UNLESS youve got a dyno and can tune fairly well http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=FLO%2DR3025&N=700+115&autoview=sku slip these inside a junction between a 3" collector and a 3" exhaust, its generally good for a few extra low rpm ft lbs (smaller exit down stream) but tuning the total collector length and dia. is critical to success the idea is to speed up the exhaust flow exiting the collector and making reverse flow hit a lip that tends to disrupt the pulse slightly the exhaust port restricters like this tend to kill high rpm flow in my experiance

repeat after me....DANA 60, yeah iots heavy! but almost totally bullet proof... IVE NEVER BEEN ABLE TO BREAK ONE YET http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/alldana60catagories.aspx http://www.strangeengineering.net/catalog/070.html

http://www.rodshop.com.au/bellhousings.htm http://www.rodshop.com.au/transmissions.htm http://members.tripod.com/~grannys/transmissions.html http://www.kennedyeng.com/ http://www.rodshop.com.au/mounts.htm http://www.wilcap.com/webdoc8.html http://eshop.advanceadapters.com/ http://www.drivetrain.com/autotranscrossref.html http://go.mrgasket.com/Brands.aspx?BrandID=5&brandselection=9 http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/catalog_gateway.htm http://www.thezstore.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PLST http://www.carnut.com/specs/engdim.html http://www.tciauto.com/Products/Specialty/adapter_kits.asp http://www.vintagespeed.com/engadap.htm http://www.dutchmanms.com/pricesheet.html#Anchor-65124 http://www.chassisengineeringinc.com/page3.html http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/default_rearend.aspx

"Well, we do have the 509 13:1's, with Merlin 345cc heads available." and your not busy dropping it in? WHY?

just for grins, have you ever thought about swapping to a BBC ENGINE like the 620 cid, at the link below for 10K, you could probably cover a good deal of the cost selling your current sbc 406 and if you consider the added cost you would have incured refreshing the sbc it may be a bargin considering youll never have the power potential of the 620 cid displacement bbc http://www.ohiocrank.com/enginekits.html, I build a whole lot more BBC engines simply because much larger displacement an better heads DO make for noticably better power

great JOB!

http://www.amazon.com/Scientific-Exhaust-Systems-Engineering-Performance/dp/0837603099/ref=sr_1_1/103-3486570-0918205?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1188949795&sr=8-1 read this years ago, not much in it I didn,t allready know from engineering classes in college http://www.amazon.com/Internal-Combustion-Engine-Theory-Practice/dp/0262700263/ref=pd_bxgy_b_text_b/103-3486570-0918205?ie=UTF8&qid=1188949795&sr=8-1 better but nothing exceptional http://www.amazon.com/Engineering-Fundamentals-Internal-Combustion-Engine/dp/0131405705/ref=pd_sim_b_4_img/103-3486570-0918205?ie=UTF8&qid=1188949795&sr=8-1 only got to briefly look thru this one but it seemed better.....if you take the time you can look up a good deal of good info and doctorate papers on the subject online

more info off a similar thread, some, maybe ,most applies, but each application requires some planning and math FACTORS The primary header pipe diameter is determined using basic engine mechanical specifications, such as: Bore Stroke Compression Ratio Valve diameter Cam specifications (lift and duration) Target rpm range PRIMARY PIPE LENGTH "The overall length of the primary header pipe is governed almost exclusively by the target engine's rpm range, which is dependent upon wave tuning. Typically, a lower engine rpm range likes a longer primary pipe, while a high rpm engine prefers a shorter primary." SECONDARY PIPE DIAMETER While typical off-the-shelf street 4-into-1 headers do not have secondary pipes, Burns' research has proven repeatedly that his Tri-Y designs make more overall power over a broader rpm range. While traditional lines of thought have street enthusiasts knowing Tri-Y pipes make more bottom-end torque, further research by Burns into the design have resulted in headers making more power all across the rpm range. With more components as part of the Tri-Y design, more tuning possibilities exist, and therefore more potential lives within. "The secondary pipe diameter is determined by considering both pressure waves and reflective waves throughout the system. Since the pipes are paired according to the firing order, these waves can work together or against each other. Naturally, our designs work with the waves to increase the efficiency of the header, using the wave pulses to help pull gases from the engine. "There are two basic kinds of waves we're dealing with. First, there are pressure waves. The pressure wave travels the length of the primary pipe in a 4-into-1 header, then is reflected from the collector where the area changes from the small-diameter primary into the larger-area collector. A reflection of negative pressure goes back up the primary pipe. "In a Tri-Y design, the pressure of additional area changes (where the primary pipes become secondary pipes) produces additional reflections, so the Tri-Y must be designed in a different manner with respect to wave control. Given this, the area of the Tri-Y header between the first and second collectors becomes critical, and tuneable. The entire header is affected by this crucial length of pipe, and can be fine-tuned accordingly through proper sizing for optimal broad-range performance. "The 4-into-1 pipe is also affected by altering pipe lengths, of course. But, without these secondary pipes it is impossible to tune with the same level of precision as with the Tri-Y headers. It's for this reason we prefer the Tri-Y design in most applications. The tuneability is so much more accurate, we're able to find more power over a broader rpm range. This is especially critical in engines expected to work well over a wide rpm range, like street machines." Another huge reason for the move to Tri-Y headers is weight savings. Burn's claims most of their Tri-Y headers weigh in at about _ the weight of comparable 4-into-1 pipes for the same application, due to the smaller pipe diameters used throughout similar applications. Also, with less internal volume than comparable 4-into-1 headers, the Tri-Y equipped engine is typically more responsive. Tri-Y designs require physically smaller collectors as well, contributing further to space and fit concerns, and adding further to crisp engine responsiveness. COLLECTORS "There is much power to be found in researching collector design and size. The optimal collector is determined by several variables, and it's engineering interacts with the entire exhaust system. The internal volume, the outlet size diameter, and the angles at which the pipes come together within the collector are all factors that must be maximized for the header to perform to its full potential." 1 - Primary Pipe Entry Size "Our computer model design program determines many of these hard dimensions based on data gathered over many years, including the length and diameter of the primary or secondary pipe entering the collector." 2- PRIMARY PIPE ENTRY ANGLE "The pipe entry angle is typically between 10-20 degrees, with most pipes being right at 15 degrees. The cone (or goilet) formed between the pipes as they transition from primary to collector is formed as a consequence of these angles, nothing more. The mass of gases moving through the pipe does not want to change direction, so keeping these "pyramid" cones true to the pipe entry angle helps smooth the transition from the relatively small volume of the feed pipe to the larger volume of the collector." 3 - COLLECTOR OUTLET DIAMETER "The collector outlet diameter is the most critical dimension in the header. It's what makes the merged collector work the way it does. Each collector we sell is custom-sized to each customer's engine, and there's no real 'formula' to get a broad-based general determination for street machines. As a rule, the overwhelming majority of aftermarket headers designed for the street market have way too big of a collector outlet diameter. Most street guys are losing power because of badly designed, manufactured, or engineered street headers. There is much room for improvement here." 4 - OVERALL COLLECTOR LENGTH "Overall collector length is not critical. Once the other variables in the header design have been determined, the collector ends up being as long as it needs to be. We've found no benefit in lengthening or minimizing this dimension. It's more important to properly engineer what's going on inside the merged collector, and let the length determine itself once all the other important factors are optimized." AFT OF THE COLLECTOR One of the growing areas of research at Burns is the critical area just aft of the all-important collector outlet. Burns' dyno research led him to begin experimenting with interchangeable venturis, which slip into receivers just aft of the collector. While these prototype dyno parts were initially crafted to assist Jack in determining the critical overall collector diameter size, he soon realized they could be a marketable product. His initial "DynoSYS" product for dyno research evolved into a line of interchangeable sleeves called the Burns Tuneable Exhaust Collector, or BTEC for short. The BTEC system has shown capability to alter the entire power curve of the engine. By changing only the insert, racers can change the entire tune on their engines to fine-tune for track conditions, weather, or driver preferences. Mostly used by drag racers, many in Pro Stock, the BTEC system offers enthusiasts a glimpse into the future of header design. While the drag racers have already embraced the benefits of BTEC, a number of road racers are beginning to experiment with the system as well. X-PIPES One area street machine enthusiasts are aware of is the evolution of the X-pipe. Early on, connecting the left and right halves of a true-dual exhaust system with an H-pipe resulted in measurable benefits. This theory evolved into the X-pipe, which allowed both left and right portions of the exhaust system to share some common flow area and resulted in even greater gains in power with a notable reduction in exhaust noise. BTW, about 5-7 OZ of BRANDY, and taking your time, reading slowly and useing a calculator and notes , a large lined legal pad and your computer,favorites to save data, works better than asprin in most cases, if your trying to relax and absorb the data

http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/header-tech-c.htm http://www.headerdesign.com/ http://www.pontiacracing.net/js_header_length1.htm http://www.slowgt.com/Calc2.htm#Header don,t think your MAX rpm is what you use to compute, use the AVERAGE rpm durring a run btw http://www.cosworthvega.com/ExhaustFabII/Exhaust_Fab_II.html http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=165247&highlight=smurf http://www.headerdesign.com/extras/resources.asp http://www.stahlheaders.com/Lit_measurement_1.htm http://www.ssheaders.com/header.htm http://www.engr.colostate.edu/~allan/fluids/page1/page1f.html http://www.engr.colostate.edu/~allan/fluids/page7/PipeLength/pipe.html youll need this http://www.kusashi.com/temperature.php?a=500&c=kels&d=fah&stage=results http://stainlessheaders.com/ http://stainlessheaders.com/trans.htm http://www.autoanything.com/exhausts-mufflers/65A2750A0A0.aspx http://www.spdexhaust.com/ http://www.stans-headers.com/gm_flanges.htm http://www.drgas.com/store/home.php http://www.burnsstainless.com/

http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/intake-tech.htm http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/log-c.htm#new http://www.auto-ware.com/combust_bytes/eng_sci2.htm http://www.grapeaperacing.com/tech/inductionsystems.pdf http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/runnertorquecalc.html http://www.wallaceracing.com/lpv.php

ok, while a 326 is never going to run with the larger 389-421-455 pontiacs if equally modified a 326 can produce a GREAT DEAL of power and can certainly provide spirited performance in a (Z) no, the pontiac won,t be as easy or as cheap as a chevy, but if you want to go jumping thru a few extra hoops the pontiac can easily produce 375-450hp with aftermarket heads, intake, cam,etc. I build pontiacs frequently, you CAN get tire smoking power,but youll need to sellect the correct heads, rotating assembly ,intake and cam combo! A few suggeated parts,THEY ARE A HUGE IMPROVEMENT http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CAT-Pontiac-455-H-Beam-6-625-4340-Connecting-Rods-ARP_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ107063QQihZ001QQitemZ110164381210QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW you WILL NEED better rods (not necessarily these) http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=EDL%2D60599&N=700+115&autoview=sku http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=EDL%2D2957&autoview=sku (huge improvement over stock in a high performance build) http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=NOS%2D02001NOS&N=700+115&autoview=sku don,t overlook pontiacs, they have alot of features superior to chevys (and a few FLAWS) http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/672hp_pontiac_350s/index.html http://www.wickedpontiacs.8m.com/tips.html http://www.wallaceracing.com/techarticles.htm http://www.pontiacstreetperformance.com/psp/camselect.html http://members.tripod.com/futom/id113.htm http://members.tripod.com/futom/id59.htm http://fiedlerh.home.att.net/PontiacCams.htm http://www.teufert.net/pontiac/cranks.htm http://www.boyleworks.com/ta400/index.html http://www.pontiacpower.com/ http://www.rpmrons.com/Pontiac.html