grumpyvette

just a suggestion.........build a custom set exactly to the correct length for your application, with the correct collector. theres readily available calculator info theres pre-cut header flanges http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HOK-11622HKR/ theres pre-welded collectors, its really not all that difficult http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLO-C134218234/ http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DTC-80-01514C/ http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=56&t=185 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=56&t=352

if your local to the west palm beach fla area I can CURE that issue in under 30 minutes and get it operating smoothly, but theres a couple routes you can go and all of them will be superior to the current set up some thread rod,1/4 20 thread heim joints , and a couple bell cranks would cure that easily btw the rollers they use on glass slide doors can be used as a roller pivot and the custom arms brazed to them to make nice smooth pivot points CHEAPLY

can you post a couple CLEAR pictures of your carb linkage? there are ways to do it http://www.jegs.com/i/Mr-Gasket/720/1523/10002/-1?parentProductId=743777 http://www.jegs.com/i/Competition-Engineering/247/3465/10002/-1?parentProductId=943335 http://www.jegs.com/p/Mr-Gasket/Mr-Gasket-Throttle-Pedal-Cable-Kit/743795/10002/-1

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=2994 this thread should help

IM constantly IMPRESSED with the quality of work many of you have done, and the obvious skills (machinist and photographic) you have. where (city)are you located in florida?

I did some research, it looks like Chinese junk masquerading as USA built equipment, several people have complained about not being able to get repair parts this quote on AMAZON tells you a great deal " Currently unavailable. We don't know when or if this item will be back in stock."

this combo ARC WELDER,TIG WELDER,PLAZMA CUTTER LOOKS INTERESTING but IVE never heard of the company?? http://www.rilandusa.com/#Riland_CT416_Machine CT416 20-40amp Plasma Cutter + 15-160amp DC Tig + 15-150amp Arc Multipurpose Welding/Cutting Machine $1250/Low Super160 20-40amp Plasma Cutter + 15-160amp ACDC Tig w/ Foot Pedal + 15-150amp Arc Multipurpose Welding/Cutting Machine $1495/Low

what cylinder heads are you using? assuming your not using vortec heads...youve got decent hood clearance...and your wanting to keep cost reasonable....ID go this route. these intakes work very well and are reasonably priced, the edelbrock carb is easy to tune and seldom has problems, if you have a decent fuel pressure regulator and fuel filter installed http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WND-8501/ http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-1403/

congrats! super price on a really nice welder!

it will help to know more about the rear gear ratio and compression etc. but its been my experience that the iron LT1 heads flow slightly better than the aluminum heads and that a cam swap does wonders for those engines, your manual transmission helps a great deal heres crowers number 619-661-6477 something like(but not necessarily) this cam below with its reasonable lift and increased duration will produce more hp at the cost of a lopey idle and loss of some lower rpm drive-ability , but a decent low restriction exhaust and headers will also be required to maximize the combo http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/cam_finder.php?part_num=00418LM&x=23&y=4

one factor many guys over look is cleaning and degrease parts, I like most guys started out using a 5 gallon bucket and a brush and some diesel fuel to clean parts , and degrease bolts etc. now once you get used to working with degreased components you'll start to wonder why you ever worked on cars without a parts cleaner/washer as it helps a good deal. now obviously use of flammable diesel fuel as a solvent is not ideal and detergents mixed with solvents and water are highly preferred, from a safety perspective, and you don,t want to use anything that evaporates quickly, stinks while in use or something that's overly corrosive or expensive for obvious reasons but once you've used a parts washer with a sprayer , drain and pump you quickly get spoiled and can,t consider working on a car without using one to clean components and get the crud out of bolt threads etc. http://www.asedeals.com/partswashers2.html having a pump that plugs into 110 volts and a drain with some type of filtered screen is obviously a big improvement over just soaking parts in diesel fuel, and a whole lot safer. and having a couple brushs and a constant stream of solvent sure helps. having a parts washer large and sturdy enough to let you soak a pair of BIG BLOCK CYLINDER HEADS and strong enough to support the weight of a bare block is a HUGE advantage, and it needs to have the OPTION to securely bolt to a wall or the floor for safety reasons as you don,t want it to tip over, as you turn a block or cylinder heads over so think thru your purchase, don,t just select on price alone http://www.popularmechanics.com/automotive/jay_leno_garage/4213287.html http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&productId=100648187&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&ci_sku=100648187&ci_src=14110944&cm_mmc=shopping-_-googlebase-_-D25X-_-100648187&locStoreNum=6379&marketID=2 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IeCDxcoNXNY http://www.amazon.com/Advanced-Tool-Design-ATD-8527-Gallon/dp/B000OUXAEE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1266865000&sr=1-2 http://www.amazon.com/Northern-Industrial-20-Gallon-Portable-Washer/dp/B002FV6NHG/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1266865000&sr=1-10 http://www.asedeals.com/RangerPW.html http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CLK-MT1110B/ heres (below) some rather cheap and rather flimsy but fairly useful parts washers for light duty use, but hardly something youll want if your equipping more than a hobby shop http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=7340 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94702 once more ID point out that having access to a decent welder and building your own custom version will be a cost saving and far less expensive option at times, and a decent start point can be a large stainless steel sink , surplus used restaurant supply stores and old restaurants can be a great source of stainless tables and larger sinks that can form the basis for building a cost effective parts washer http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=60&t=1669 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=81 how many of you gentlemen use or own a parts washer? how many built their own? how many guys want one?

the quick easy route is to take a bit of uninsulated 12 ga solid core copper wire and make a (U) shape,with about 4" legs , you then bend the ends into a (J)at 90 degrees to the (U)the ends are placed (hooked into)in the rocker slot from the lower side of the rocker between the stud and rocker slot and the engines spun manually by a friend while you hold the wire in the rocker for two full rotations, if the wires not pinched your good, check the next rocker, if it gets crimped you need to lengthen the rocker slot

thank you thats PERFECT! IVE got 5 BBC engine in the shop currently but no SBC engines and NO camera so THATS a HUGE HELP!

thats helpful, and I really do,appreciate the effort, but IM hoping for something a bit clearer, focusing directly on the area

Thats an,excellent point thats often over looked as is, verifying valve spring coil bind, push-rod to head clearance ,rocker to retainer and retainer to valve seal and piston to valve clearance issues and, just successfully rotating the engine without it binding up is NOT checking clearances

my computer skills are constantly improving but cameras, and transferring photos to computers still seem to make me crazy... does anyone have a clear picture of the lower drivers side block area and the oil filter and oil temperature sensor location on a sbc engine? IM looking for a clear picture of the area where the temp sensor normally screws into the block in the port above the oil filter flange, angles not as important as clearly showing the location

everyone calls me grumpy, or grumpyvette except my wife when shes mad... then its PAUL! , followed by something like,get your #$%^^ out of the garage and listen to me for 30 seconds!

your rear gear ratio, and static compression, displacement,header design and the shift points (rpm)will need to be taken into consideration when selecting a cam, and the clearances and spring load rates will need to be known. generally the smaller port vortec heads won,t flow efficiently even when mildly ported, and when clearanced for higher lifts and equipped with better springs at lifts over about 0.540 and durations over about 240@.050 lift, so even when theres been a good deal of work done to the stock small port castings they are restrictive. vortecs are designed to operate most efficiently in the 2500rpm-5500rpm power band,and by about 6500rpm on a 350 or by about 6200rpm on a 383 the powers dropping rapidly so a dual plane intakes the best match like a edelbrock RPM AIR GAP, or WEIAND AIR STRIKE, BOTH WORK, BUT PERSONALLY I PREFER THE AIR STRIKE http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WND-8502C/Application/?prefilter=0 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=401&p=6078&hilit=cross+sectional+area#p6078 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=333&p=1870&hilit=+cross+sectional+area#p1870 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=69&t=1040&p=1943&hilit=206cc#p1943

If your having a problem tuning your car or getting it to run correctly ,about 1/2 the time youll find its the basic stuff on a car thats out of adjustment or improperly installed, naturally the last thing you added or adjusted will be suspected as the source, of any problem that just started, but dropping back to the basics of checking timing, fuel pressure, checking valve adjustments, vacuum leaks fluid levels etc. is usually the place to start and having a shop manual for you car and basic tools like a vacuum gauge, timing light and V.O.M. meter makes tracking down the source of the problem easier , and having the basics of how things operate at least in theory helps a good deal also http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=211 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1337&p=2921&hilit=+infrared#p2921 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=109 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=70&t=875&p=7285&hilit=timing+light#p7285

larger displacements almost always have more consistant and lower rpm range torque, which tends to make driving them easier once your driving style matches the cars power curve

while it was a bit of a shock,signing on, it looks more organized and I think it may be an improvement!

IM always amazed at the guys that think swapping from 3/8" to 7/16" rocker studs is going to be a huge improvement,in valve train stability,now theres not the slightest doubt that an increase of about 18% in cross sectional area on the studs a significant increase in strength, and while that helps, its not the huge improvement many people think it is because its generally not the rocker studs that fail from flexing,unless they are defective, as most would have you believe, but because its the rocker geometry and rocker support not the stud diameter, that matters, more, you can,t expect a rocker stud with one end unsupported to have any where near the resistance to deflection that a rocker stud with BOTH ends supported will have. if you support both ends of the rocker studs you easily increase the load bearing capacity to far more than the additional stud diameter increase, can ever do,having one end unsupported the stud acts a bit like a nail being pulled by a hammer, in that loads applied to the upper end tend to both bend the nail and pull on the lower end , thats where the use of STUD GIRDLES comes into play. simply supporting the rocker stud tips so that the forces acting on a single rocker stud are now opposed by the resistance to deflection of all 8 rocker studs is a huge improvement http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-141010/?rtype=10 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-4014/

that is a far more frequent occurrence than most people believe it to be. http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=26 IF you would rather spend time bench pressing your car or truck occasionally, and don,t mind loss of a few fingers, or a broken leg or back, .....follow this numbskulls example. a good yank on a wrench, a friend leaning on the truck, a stiff breeze, ETC. and hes going to be in a world of trouble. "1: why 12 ton? Ain't 6 ton more than enough? 2: how do you jack up the car? do you enroll your wife? 3: what floor jack do you use? Prices vary quite a bit?" (1) the 12 ton are BOTH FAR MORE STABILE from tipping or the car shifting, AND on the first notch they are exactly the correct height to allow comfortably accessing the under side of the car, place the 6 ton next to a 12 ton and raise both to the height of the 12 ton stands on the first notch, theres absolutely no comparison in your safety under the car, THERES ABSOLUTELY NO WAY YOU CAN COMPARE THE DEGREE OF STABILITY THE LARGER BASE AND STRONGER MATERIALS THE 12 TON STANDS PROVIDE (2)OK first you DON,T raise a vette one corner at a time! you drive it up on the ramps to get clearance for the jack then slide the floor jack under the center of the front (CROSS MEMBER) and lift the front and place BOTH front 12 ton jack stands, under the frame , wide spaced, then the angle allows you to either use a second floor jack or move the front floor jack to the rear of the vette, and lift the whole back and place both REAR 12 ton jack stands, on the rear frame. now personally I usually leave the rear jack stands and the jack holding the rear up ,and the 12 ton jack stands on the front with the tires hanging just above the ramps, that way theres almost no chance the vette can fall, even if some component were to fail. Ill ALSO point out I have and have always used two floor jacks, twin rino ramps and 4 12 ton jack stand WHEN I was under the corvette as I don,t want to be doing bench presses with a vette!:WTF (3)theres several deals available, and the quality varies wildly, youll need to shop, http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200345429_200345429 this jack looks good in the info they posted, but if you can afford it ID buy two, so you can jack the frame with a buddies help with minimal frame twist. I have two craftsman floor jacks and while they have worked well for years Id more than likely have purchased those if Id known about them at the time I bought them

rockers and rocker studs rarely if ever break for no reason, theres almost always without exception, a clearance or geometry issue, thats the cause, if you have not verified all the clearance issues Id strongly suggest you look into that. http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=689&p=7416#p7416